tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-40890774396419670202024-02-20T21:37:49.112+07:00Holiday in CambodiaAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02152018193849879223noreply@blogger.comBlogger65125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4089077439641967020.post-71519721797978385992012-10-31T03:02:00.000+07:002012-11-14T00:10:25.048+07:00Bye Bye China! Visiting Gulangyu and Yongding<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b>Last post:</b> <a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/10/adventure-in-yellow-moutain-huangshan.html">Adventure in the Yellow Moutain: <i>Huangshan<b> </b></i></a></div>
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<a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/10/adeus-china-visitas-gulangyu-e-yongding.html"><b>Versão em Português</b><i> </i></a></div>
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<b>Last stop</b><br />
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Traveling can also be a challenge and, even though I was very happy to be nearly finishing my Chinese odissey I started to show clear signs of fatigue. The long and tiring walk in <i>Huangshan </i>was kept in my body memories. Foot blisters, body pains, very sleepy, etc., and still, I could not rest properly because I had to take a 15-hour train journey to reach <i>Xiamen</i>. I took the train in <i>Huangshan</i> - almost late - and once again I had a great experience interacting with Chinese common people. This time I had a guidebook about Brazil, with some pictures - Cá's gift - and that left my train fellows really excited!</div>
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<b>Intro</b></div>
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<i>Xiamen </i>has a population of more than 3.5 million people and sits in coastal China being maybe the biggest and nearest city to <i>Taiwan</i>. It's also frequently ranked as one of the best big Chinese cities to live in.</div>
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I had no specific focus in <i>Xiamen</i> since the city have no famous touristic attraction. The option to go over there was because it was easier/cheaper to get from <i>Huangshan </i>to <i>Hong Kong</i> without taking a flight and making more use of my time in China.</div>
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Because of this context I went directly to the area that has the greatest touristic potential in <i>Xiamen</i>, the island of <i>Gulangyu</i>. It's a tiny island - around 2 km² - where just 20,000 people live but has its charm. It's one of the busiest domestic tourism spots in China.</div>
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<i>Xiamen</i> was one of the forced cities to open to international trade after China lost the Opium War to the British. <i>Gulangyu</i> at that time was assigned as an international area, and 1903 became a safe refuge for Europeans, Japaneses and wealthy Chinese. Thus, the island - even though not as much as described in <i>Lonely Planet </i>- recalls to an European colonial feeling given to its common architecture totally different from Chinese tradition.</div>
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<b>How to get there</b></div>
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Arriving at <i>Xiamen's </i>train station you'll need to catch the bus to the seafront area. There are lots of buses going that way, thus it's worth to check at the time you get there. It wasn't that difficult to find people who could speak English in this city.</div>
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After you get to the pier, turn left and you'll probably find the crowds in front of the ticket counters. Get on those lines and buy your ticket (~12 RMB return) to get to <i>Gulangyu</i>. After a 5 min ferry tour you'll arrive in the island.</div>
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<b>Where to stay</b><br />
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Unfortunately <i>Gulangyu</i> doesn't have too many options of accommodation for the low cost traveler. Therefore, booking in advance is the rule, especially in the high season as July. Out of the three low cost accomodation options commonly known I stayed in two. The first, <i>Gulangyu International Youth Hostel</i>, it's not bad but it doesn't make any effort to get better, it's in the Chinese hostels average. The second one, <i>Bay View Inn</i>, it's extremely clean and the staff are really attentive and nice, above average. The price was almost the same so if you have the chance to choose the take the second one. I think both can be booked at <a href="http://hostelbookers.com/">Hostelbookers.com</a> or <a href="http://hostelworld.com/">Hostelworld.com</a>.</div>
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<b>Arriving</b></div>
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When I got there and unloaded my stuff I had some goals. First, have a shower, because I had no shower for 2 days while I had to walk, take trains, etc., so really needed that. Second, to eat, because I was starving. Third, wash my clothes because I had no clean ones to wear anymore. Fourth, find out how to get to <i>Hong Kong, </i>where to stay there, the flight to <i>Singapore</i>, the flight to <i>Paris</i>, Europe details and, finally, the way back to Brazil. Last but not least, I had to sleep.<br />
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However, before I went to sleep I could take a picture of <i>Xiamen</i> seen from <i>Gulangyu</i>.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of <i>Xiamen </i>at night from <i>Gulangyu</i></td></tr>
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The second day was dedicated to the tours and so I could enjoy the island much better. I changed my hostel - there wasn't room for me for the second day - left my stuff and explored the island. Before lunch the island was fully packed by Chinese tourists. I waked through many alleys that can easily make you get lost. On the way I found European style buildings mixed with some others in Chinese traditional architecture. In the center of the island I found a wide vary of cheap Chinese restaurants. I could find a meal of 2 <i>dumplings </i>portions of chick and ginger and 1 <i>Tsingtao </i>beer for 12 RMB.</div>
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<b><i>Statue of Koxinga</i></b><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Picture of <i>Statue of Koxinga</i><br />
looking at the sea</td></tr>
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One of the islands most easily found touristic spots. It's called <i>Statue of Koxinga</i>, a national hero that expelled the Dutch from <i>Taiwan</i> in 1660. I could say it's one of the most visited places in the island and the alternative to get close to it would be to take a boat tour - or the ferry itself. It costs 15 RMB to get close to the statue.</div>
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<b><i>Sunlight Rock</i></b></div>
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The highest spot in <i>Gulangyu</i> and surely worth a visit. From it one can see the view of the whole island historic center and city of <i>Xiamen </i>in the back. It's worth saying that the place was p-a-c-k-e-d with tourists making almost impossible to walk in the rock. It costs 60 RMB to go up. I'd like tosay that, only in this place during my whole stay in China they didn't want to accept my student ID. I first paid for the full fare but after I saw that it was written in English that they accepted student ID for half-fare I called the manager and after a short period of tension she decided to give my money back and charge me just the half-fare.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq4H66BJUwRCfpl8kKHYC1RxW5LrZnup5gttdYNuje3NVMgDsxXEeGoi-d9-CCfuJ49io7YqExF9u_TTiPc3euqI3SWzZTXdOMdCixzrAmoup6CElh10snNwJ9McH6M_4nYupEDpiHibtD/s1600/IMG_26111.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq4H66BJUwRCfpl8kKHYC1RxW5LrZnup5gttdYNuje3NVMgDsxXEeGoi-d9-CCfuJ49io7YqExF9u_TTiPc3euqI3SWzZTXdOMdCixzrAmoup6CElh10snNwJ9McH6M_4nYupEDpiHibtD/s320/IMG_26111.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of <i>Gulangyu </i>and <i>Xiamen</i><br />
from <i>Sunlight Rock</i></td></tr>
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<b><i>Walking over Gulangyu</i></b><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Picture of the nutcracker's store</td></tr>
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There were many others tourist attractions but that was enough for me. Just walking through <i>Gulangyu's </i>alleys was making me happy I had no pacience anymore for museums and gardens, etc, etc, etc. I walked through the whole island and tasted lots of local street food. One of my findings was a delicious oyster pancake for 10 RMB - which, yeah, it gives you diarrhea but it was really good - and a bizarre ice cream made of pasta, beans and, of course, ice cream for just 20 RMB. In <i>Gulangyu</i> you can find many cafés which sell capuccino, fappuccino, etc., expensive and not that interesting but which seems to be the latest fashion among youngsters in China. Another curious point in times of world economic crisis was to find the ice cream places that advertise to have an authentic <i>italiano gelatto</i>. I really saw Italian men mixing the ice cream as an attraction to Chinese tourists. I also saw many stores selling nutcrackers. There were whole stores of nutcrackers, probably another coming up fashion in China.</div>
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<b><i>Going to Yongding</i></b></div>
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For a solo traveler getting to <i>Yongding </i>could be an excessive adventure which I wasn't looking for in the rainy season and just some days before I would leave China. So I tried to find a travel agency that could offer the tour to <i>Yongding</i>. I found one that stays almost next to the place where the ferry dropps you off in <i>Gulangyu</i>. It costs arround 150 RMB including tickets, transportation and lunch. This place was also one of the reasons for me to put the <i>Xiamen </i>region in my travel plan so I was pretty excited about what I would find.</div>
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<i>Yongding </i>stays in the province of <i>Fujian</i> and has around 30,000 <i>tulous</i>, the original samples of what we could call as buildings or modern condominiums. These were built by the <i>Hakka </i>people - they used to live in the East coast of China, <i>Hong Kong</i>, <i>Taiwan</i> and they spread around the world - as a solution to protect their community from the attack of animals or other people.</div>
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<b><i>Hongkeng Tulou</i></b></div>
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The area my tour went to visit is a 3-hour drive from <i>Xiamen</i>, in the mountains of <i>Fujian</i> and we faced some rain on the way. We went to visit the <i>Hongkeng Tulou</i>, which is the most touristy one, so not the most authentic, but which still reserved a nice experience for me.</div>
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When we arrived there our group would follow a tour script. Since I could not understand a thing about what they were saying I ended up visiting all the place on my own. Instead of going to the <i>tulous</i> first I decided to have the views from the top since there were no crowds there yet.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from the <i>Hongkeng Tulou </i>complex</td></tr>
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The view is really impressive, there are many <i>tulous</i> in circle, egg and even squared forms. This is the kind of different architecture that even when you get used to watch at the first view it's hard to forget.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Woman next to the<br />
<i>tulou's </i>entrance</td></tr>
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The <i>Hakka </i>people went through a real diaspora not just around Asia but to the whole world. There are <i>Hakka </i>descendants scattered around US, Europe and Asia, many times occupying leadership positions. To be a <i>Hakka </i>it's almost like making part of a global fraternity that looks to keep their tradition and honor their ethnic group. Besides being from a different ethnic group, these people communicate through a different language, the <i>Hakka </i>language, which is different from Mandarim.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Central area inside the <i>tulou</i></td></tr>
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As impressive as looking to the <i>tulous</i> from the outside is when you can get a glimpse from inside. Even though the people who live inside - with the government incentive - are transforming it in something directed towards tourism there are still some people living there as they usually did, especially on those which are in bad state of conservation.</div>
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I got into a <i>tulou</i> which as really bad maintained and apparently not openned to visits. It was pouring hard but still I could admire the wooden made structure inside the <i>tulou</i> that circled the inner garden.</div>
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In of the greatest <i>tulous</i> there was a ceremony area making the view even more interesting. Unfortunately, as there are people still living there, tourists - especially those who could be taken as foreigners as me - can only get access to the ground level. So I could not go upstairs for a panoramic picture. However, the locals know the tourists curiosity and they sell your picture taken in the entrance. I could lower the price to 12 RMB and took this plastified and enlarged picture home. To avoid loosing it I took a picture with my camera. This surely is one of the most impressive views inside a <i>tulou</i>.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My picture inside the biggest <i>tulou</i></td></tr>
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<b><i>The end</i></b></div>
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And I reach the end of my Chinese adventure. Almost a whole month with plenty of happiness, different people, learning, challenges, stress, and unforgetable experiences. China is a millenial giant which is just getting back to its power position. Has lots of things to teach us in terms of culture, citzenship and urbanistic approaches. Besides the language barriers this is for sure a wonderful place to travel in terms of landscapes, culture and safety. I broke my prejudices about the Chinese people and I was offer help everywhere I went and from everyone in order to accomplish my plan. Thank you China for this unforgettable experience. </div>
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Now, let's go to Europe. <a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/11/1-day-in-paris.html">1 day in <i>Paris!</i></a></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02152018193849879223noreply@blogger.com1Fujian, China26.099933 119.29650622.452492 114.242795 29.747374 124.35021699999999tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4089077439641967020.post-65701470937111150482012-10-16T23:58:00.000+07:002012-11-07T03:11:07.884+07:00Adventure in the Yellow Moutain: Huangshan<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b>Previous Post: </b><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/10/chinas-big-apple-shanghai.html"> China's Big Apple: <i>Shanghai</i></a><br />
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<b>Intro</b><br />
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<i>Huangshan</i>, also known as the <i>Yellow Mountain</i>, it's a massive granite group of mountains with 36 peaks reaching more than 1,800 m high. To look at this kind of mountain and its green remembers you about classic Chinese paintings.</div>
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<tr><td><a href="http://hellochina.us/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/Chinese-painting.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="226" src="http://hellochina.us/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/Chinese-painting.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Picture about <i>Huangshan</i></td></tr>
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<b>Taking the train in <i>Shanghai</i></b></div>
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Since I had already bought my train tickets I went directly to <i>Shanghai's </i>train station. Then, I discovered that I hadn't bought a <i>sleeper </i>seat but a <i>hard seat</i> - the cheapest. I was taking a overnight train and that gave me a pretty clear message: a bad slept night. In the <i>hard seat </i>area the lights are never turned off, the A/C is pretty strong, people come and leave at every stop, the seats are small and there's no way to recline it or to anywhere to lay your head. By the other hand, I think it's the finest way to get close to Chinese people. Fortunately, in the middle of the night the train got quite empty and I could take the whole seat row for me.</div>
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<b>Arriving in the city of <i>Huangshan</i></b></div>
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There's an important thing: there's the mountain of <i>Huangshan </i>and the city of <i>Huangshan</i>. When you get to the city of <i>Huangshan </i>that doesn't mean anything because the mountain sits 1 hour away in the surroudings of the city of <i>Tangkou</i>. As you leave the train there'll be some vans and buses to take you there (16 RMB). And, if you're lucky, you'll find some other foreigners who can speak English to you and get yourself in a group. I ended up with two Italians, Giulia and Andrei, who planned to hike the moutain in the same pace I had planned and so we went together from there on. It's worth to buy the mountain map for 7 RMB written in Chinese and English. In the moutain itself the maps sold are available only in Chinese.</div>
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<b>Getting to the </b><i style="font-weight: bold;">Huangshan </i><span style="font-weight: bold;">mountain</span></div>
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We took the bus to <i>Tangkou</i> and went to find somewhere to leave our heavy luggage. We bought water, food and had a meal before taking the stairs up. Around 2 pm we went to the moutain. For that we needed to pay 21 RMB for a bus service to the start of the trail and, when we got there more 230 RMB for entrance tickets (the price changes according to the season and student ID cards are accepted for a 50% discount).</div>
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<b>Paths and trails</b></div>
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There are two ways to up/down the moutain. You can make use of cablecars, which is the usual solution for elder and tired people, or, you can do it on foot.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="http://wikitravel.org/upload/shared//thumb/5/5f/Huangshan_trail_map1.gif/480px-Huangshan_trail_map1.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://wikitravel.org/upload/shared//thumb/5/5f/Huangshan_trail_map1.gif/480px-Huangshan_trail_map1.gif" width="256" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Map of the trails in <i>Huangshan</i></td></tr>
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It's possible to go up/down through the Eastern or Western steps. A classic route - the onde I did - is to go up through the Eastern steps and down through the Western steps in the next day. It's done this way because the Estern steps are hard and take 3-4 hours to finish, but, it's feasible, the Western steps are much more difficult and can take up to 6-8 hours to be completed. Thus, it's better to go down that way. Once you got to the top there will be a lot of slopes and stairs that will make everything harder.</div>
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<b>Hiking through the Eastern steps</b></div>
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We started our hiking under rain and fog. I felt like the moutain was endless and we would never stop hiking. Every group of stairs was followed by another group, then, another group... This route is also used by men who carry everything, from sheets to the hotels and laundry stuff to bottles of water and food and even other people who don't want / can't hike the way for themselves.</div>
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The Italians were still carrying a lot of stuff to camp on the top, which obviously demanded more energy from them. And, Giulia, addicted to photography, was carrying 2 DSLR cameras and 3 lenses. Not a surprise that they later, at the top, gave up of walking down the moutain and decided to take the cablecar. Anyway, so far, the promisse of spectacular scenery was pushing us up.</div>
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At times we got a little bit frustrated. Everywhere you looked the lonly thing to be seen was the grey colour of the fog. Sometimes a tiny piece of the moutain was revealed but would be gone away in less than 10 mintues.</div>
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<b>Arrived</b></div>
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After 3 hours of hiking, we finally got the top. The problem was that there's no single top but lots of tops and we would have to walk a lot from that point. </div>
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<b><i>Begin to Believe Peak</i></b></div>
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This peak was named this way because of its impressive views so people would still find difficult to believe that they got there. For us, there was no big deal because we couldn't see anything from there.</div>
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But then..</div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigpK1xY5ZuwnZN96i-iorMHg0_i2Tk-yTpJajLuBQ_o0ph1LgwCRJ6dtRgRdwgT4TvH_fJLPKglXg1lcdDDszDANRGnm4VpgVbsrpOSkg3p3Uch5Qik_5OJ6tnQAHC-VIMt0XK3Om3UA97/s1600/IMG_2273.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigpK1xY5ZuwnZN96i-iorMHg0_i2Tk-yTpJajLuBQ_o0ph1LgwCRJ6dtRgRdwgT4TvH_fJLPKglXg1lcdDDszDANRGnm4VpgVbsrpOSkg3p3Uch5Qik_5OJ6tnQAHC-VIMt0XK3Om3UA97/s320/IMG_2273.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Picture of <i>Huangshan </i>in the <i>Begin To Believe Peak</i></td></tr>
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From now I'll warn you. The pictures cannot tell not even 50% of the impact of seeing that with your own eyes. It's simply magic! The clouds disapeared and suddenly there were many moutains and peaks in front of us. We got super excited and ran to take pictures. As the wind changed moutains came up and disapeared and even cloudly as it was it was phantastic. However, we didn't know that the best views would be revealed only in the nest day...</div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7K7Kk4Uaa9aiWd7GspQENcUxeKoCT8dExYfl2fmvz7IIR2zbzqSXnS69sJbW3jfFXIMa3hF-U2lpCmDJONFN7K8eeOVuNuABjpyFxGK25PuI9VxirMVsk4B7O5wAdU3zgbC7klLU31CSZ/s1600/IMG_2274.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7K7Kk4Uaa9aiWd7GspQENcUxeKoCT8dExYfl2fmvz7IIR2zbzqSXnS69sJbW3jfFXIMa3hF-U2lpCmDJONFN7K8eeOVuNuABjpyFxGK25PuI9VxirMVsk4B7O5wAdU3zgbC7klLU31CSZ/s320/IMG_2274.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Picture of <i>Huangshan</i>, vale next to <i>Beihai </i>hotel</td></tr>
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<b>At night</b></div>
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So you can better enjoy the mountain, take rest and still watch the sunrise, the best option is to sleep in the top. The cheapest option is tro bring your own tent and camp in from if <i>Beihai Hotel </i>for 30 RMB. However, if you want to rent their tent that would cost 200 RMB. If you want to sleep in the 5-people dorm the price is 280 RMB - that's what I've did. And, finally, if you want normal rooms with everything a 4-star hotel has to offer the range is from 1000 to 2000 RMB or more. Thus, everything's extremely expensive. Since taking your own tent requires a lot of energy - as per my Italian friends experience - I think the best choice would be to sleep in the tent or the dorm. The dorm should be booked way in advancebecause it's quite difficult to get it.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVJwdsr5WRu_f2OYtFpNGuPv5lzinG-wWiUBBDaEhWa7IiGND0HdH-5Q9dkElNsgSXwT8FMusHM_iGKW9RdE_2UiPiIVUZFDs6g990dugaxyS1P90A-MGOBN4z85e13Yu9DXHbvgjxbYpi/s1600/IMG_2284.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVJwdsr5WRu_f2OYtFpNGuPv5lzinG-wWiUBBDaEhWa7IiGND0HdH-5Q9dkElNsgSXwT8FMusHM_iGKW9RdE_2UiPiIVUZFDs6g990dugaxyS1P90A-MGOBN4z85e13Yu9DXHbvgjxbYpi/s320/IMG_2284.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">The Italians and me</td></tr>
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Me and the Italians wanted to have dinner but it was difficult to find something cheap. To give an idea, the mini markets there are prohibited by the hotels to sell instant noodles. However, one of the owners of the mini market asked us if we wanted to buy it as long as we didn't tell that to anyone. We accepted his proposal and we paid 15 RMB for each. I stayed with the Italians in their tent until it got late and then I went to my hotel dorm room.<br />
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<b>Sunrise</b><br />
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One of the greatest natural attractions in <i>Huangshan</i> was to watch the sunrise. And, according to weather forecast we had 70% of chance to have a regular sunrise. One of the best peaks to watch it is the <i>Lion Peak</i>.<br />
<b><br /></b><b><i>Lion Peak</i></b><br />
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I don't know why this peak has this name. I have no idea. But, we woke up at 4 am, I helped the Italians to pack their tent and we moved to this peak. I mean, not just us but a pack of tourists, foreigners and Chinese. When we arrived there was some competition for the best places.<br />
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There are some things about <i>Huangshan</i>, one are the curious rocks - for example, in this picture you can see the <i>monkey </i>in the left side. And, as you can see in the back, there's a sea of clouds. So, this view is know as <i>The Monkeu watching the sea of clouds.</i><br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfKAWIkDNItnrJpvOGOhMfNG3Qw5Y57guHTXAfwmUJxzr9XwO80UjDA8YWa-A59trsmj-gxduEDstiRH-m95iqQ-qT-IVifwmJKWzo82DYikN8L_s2z32UDMDV0diN2RPHS0-TtaLcNmgL/s1600/IMG_2316.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfKAWIkDNItnrJpvOGOhMfNG3Qw5Y57guHTXAfwmUJxzr9XwO80UjDA8YWa-A59trsmj-gxduEDstiRH-m95iqQ-qT-IVifwmJKWzo82DYikN8L_s2z32UDMDV0diN2RPHS0-TtaLcNmgL/s320/IMG_2316.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">View of <i>The Monkey watching the sea of clouds</i></td></tr>
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Then I had my 5 minutes of panic. I had left my camera inside my bag, but I didn't properly close it and when I was trying to climb a rock to have a better viw I heard the noise of something big hitting the ground. When I was about to check what it was someone delivered my camera. I got desperate! But, for close, nothing happened - the camera had fell over a tiny dirty ground area in the middle of the rocks - only my UV filter was broken!<br />
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We watched the sunrise, which for me had a special meaning because it was my 24th birthday, yea, celebrated on my own in the moutain. And, for the open skies with just a few clouds, I could see I would get a wonderful gift, a unique sunny day in a week in the middle of the rainy season.<br />
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Before we could move on however, our friend Giulia had some stomach ache problems and that started to point that me and my friends would have to separate later that day.<br />
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<b>On the way to the <i>Flying Rock</i></b><br />
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As we walked to the <i>Flying Rock</i> - one of the most impressive rocks in <i>Huangshan</i> - we had amazing views. Like this:<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjef1-CNS1cy4a8Q3xj1SoWH_xYDtyhyphenhyphen60OLY6LB_xB2QTLHj-OMyW9V2ijXurvsm9KlkSt5VMqabdnQzjoJeLPKEezOfz9oM4zq63hdUhanS8c43WVU8x_JFELp3MNnQbMoVNrU0vaYV0w/s1600/IMG_2371.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjef1-CNS1cy4a8Q3xj1SoWH_xYDtyhyphenhyphen60OLY6LB_xB2QTLHj-OMyW9V2ijXurvsm9KlkSt5VMqabdnQzjoJeLPKEezOfz9oM4zq63hdUhanS8c43WVU8x_JFELp3MNnQbMoVNrU0vaYV0w/s320/IMG_2371.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">View from the vale on the way to the <i>Flying Rock</i></td></tr>
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My Italian friends were having more difficult to walk, but still they were trying hard to make it. Giulia however started to have nausea and more intensive stomach ache so she could not follow me and Andrei to the rock.<br />
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<b><i>The Flying Rock</i></b><br />
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After a very intensive ladder of stairs, with some stops to breath, and, getting very tired, we made it to the <i>Flying Rock</i>. By the picture the name became quite obvious. A piece of rock in an arrow shape in the edge of a cliff.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbrbE-3pfGC4tytbhes6KXsdQwjaEtwqYqSkBrRSZ28G8xY1GGS7LNx7RHItPGk_hwcw_PDK8kjrCiXinV7V1SR6gB79WwsMUXEYVvCo9fkfz3TFn5NJh0vRrkZtg1rpbo_TGQFH9-ADI2/s1600/IMG_2390.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbrbE-3pfGC4tytbhes6KXsdQwjaEtwqYqSkBrRSZ28G8xY1GGS7LNx7RHItPGk_hwcw_PDK8kjrCiXinV7V1SR6gB79WwsMUXEYVvCo9fkfz3TFn5NJh0vRrkZtg1rpbo_TGQFH9-ADI2/s320/IMG_2390.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">View from the <i>Flying Rock</i></td></tr>
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The views from there were simply spectacular. All the area know as <i>West Canyon</i>, full of peaks, walls, cliffs and green mixed. One of the most beautiful and different places I ever seen!<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4NA6xYn-vzfLm0HhCcKw16hXvIuLUIiB7PT4UaRkXyc2gGKAUTUfQi_HJuXzPpV0-4H7Kq_-qhuqQKL1arSQZdt68WRbRQWN2HHvpJon35z-hu3kobleMQqlfWXANMqtaFdeYeP9ZM9ko/s1600/IMG_2394.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4NA6xYn-vzfLm0HhCcKw16hXvIuLUIiB7PT4UaRkXyc2gGKAUTUfQi_HJuXzPpV0-4H7Kq_-qhuqQKL1arSQZdt68WRbRQWN2HHvpJon35z-hu3kobleMQqlfWXANMqtaFdeYeP9ZM9ko/s320/IMG_2394.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Views from the <i>West Canyon </i>from the <i>Flying Rock</i></td></tr>
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From there we could see trails and paths that were built in the cliffs. These paths were almost all supended, a construction masterpiece. Imagine how was to built it?</div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL6ZyHhoomditr1eQl84P3QMp5ro-KZsY8sScun-tWBkKHMj2zpLEDqMkVHtSNVGFf5tPLyd9dD8Bhj06S2kuRgKQ_Pobt557LZIbVxkJVNhw3J4zz0pCbeudUyDEKwlevDQPnQFOCDuHz/s1600/IMG_2401.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL6ZyHhoomditr1eQl84P3QMp5ro-KZsY8sScun-tWBkKHMj2zpLEDqMkVHtSNVGFf5tPLyd9dD8Bhj06S2kuRgKQ_Pobt557LZIbVxkJVNhw3J4zz0pCbeudUyDEKwlevDQPnQFOCDuHz/s320/IMG_2401.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Paths in the cliffs of the <i>West Canyon</i></td></tr>
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After our visit to the <i>Flying Rock</i>, we went immediately to the other side, in truth, we took all the way back - the endless stairs. We took the trail that goes all the way down to the cliff and energy would never be so important like now. More and more tourists were getting to the moutain and the paths started to get crowded.</div>
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<b>Start of the<i> West Canyon</i></b></div>
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The <i>West Canyon </i>is a new trail in <i>Huangshan</i> that starts behind <i>Xihai Hotel</i>. The scenery is spectactular and maybe the best scenery from the whole moutain. Since the trail is pretty intensive - stairs almost all the time - the big tour groups don't rick to go there, so it's easier to enjoy the nature.</div>
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Impresses me the fact that the Chinese moutains are so unknown internationaly. A few people mentioned <i>Huangshan </i>on their trip plans. I agree that's not the easiest place to go, however, is not that hard either, it's just 6-12 h from <i>Shanghai </i>(bus x train) and it's served by airports and nice highways.</div>
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<b>Going down in the<i> West Canyon</i></b></div>
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The scenery is wonderful. A sunny day was perfect to give the vivid colors to <i>Huangshan</i>. A real birthday gift for sure!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2ZUxxhdNL4KR2CYU88oyvty-eotj_UeShvHGnSQVR7J-2XjIKR_H63CWiEotz4Kmu7P90BnQ9YBrhux6lQcDZNVoSg6lJ-isG_eUL67pRcJRi616oDuPeQ97iivlEmEQrd-Hfr9Z-I2x7/s1600/IMG_2489.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2ZUxxhdNL4KR2CYU88oyvty-eotj_UeShvHGnSQVR7J-2XjIKR_H63CWiEotz4Kmu7P90BnQ9YBrhux6lQcDZNVoSg6lJ-isG_eUL67pRcJRi616oDuPeQ97iivlEmEQrd-Hfr9Z-I2x7/s320/IMG_2489.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyE6jItF4sANCZr4kKpRzF-nRpri-dXHA0cnwBB04I8ng1TUsznUglvDAvq_oaIja2F58mynez3GH_Db8N94IDxE76EuMm9sHmDtOQN87zrWMkXHdJy5TepcoheTXKznSgehGEaW2fjhTg/s1600/IMG_2473.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyE6jItF4sANCZr4kKpRzF-nRpri-dXHA0cnwBB04I8ng1TUsznUglvDAvq_oaIja2F58mynez3GH_Db8N94IDxE76EuMm9sHmDtOQN87zrWMkXHdJy5TepcoheTXKznSgehGEaW2fjhTg/s200/IMG_2473.JPG" width="133" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Path to reach the<br />
bottom of the <i>West Canyon</i></td></tr>
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As we went down to the bottom of the <i>Canyon </i>we saw images of carved rocks, pines na other trees that made unusual combinations. Now, we were walking through the impressive paths we had seen from the <i>Flying Rock</i>. The number of tourists in this area is much reduced compared to other parts of the mountain but sometimes some Chinese came along to take pictures with us.</div>
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<span style="text-align: justify;">After walking</span><i style="text-align: justify;"> </i><span style="text-align: justify;">down almost all the </span><i style="text-align: justify;">West Canyon</i><span style="text-align: justify;"> we found </span><i style="text-align: justify;">Robert</i><span style="text-align: justify;">, a Dutch guy who was following the same path we were. Some conversation and soon we found that our map was not updated and the track connection we thought we'd find in the bottom of the </span><i style="text-align: justify;">Canyon </i><span style="text-align: justify;">was closed. In other words, all we went down now we'd have to go up AND, go all the way back to the </span><i style="text-align: justify;">Flying Rock</i><span style="text-align: justify;"> again so we could continue our way. Well, we faced all the climbing again and, when we reached the top, my Italian friends gave up and went to rest. They would take the cablecar to go down - even though the way to reach the cablecar it was not easy</span><br />
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<b>Finding the way out of the moutain</b></div>
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A huge amount of people, heat, tired, and messy maps turned our task of finding our way down a real challenge. We got stuck in the traffic between trails. In fact, the flow of visitors is so massive that there are fences to create direction orders.</div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiniFzYxNhdAo1i0X6OEmPH-OBms9sO99ljC0ghSuK9somH4LIWwV0-2VbGbw1nt44JEEZpsHsBrO9687g0K4nUshy-gjDzS4LFP01FWfD5gfhC4NWC6IQWd0QZTbjUB4G2tBdEkiCzj_V1/s1600/IMG_2545.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiniFzYxNhdAo1i0X6OEmPH-OBms9sO99ljC0ghSuK9somH4LIWwV0-2VbGbw1nt44JEEZpsHsBrO9687g0K4nUshy-gjDzS4LFP01FWfD5gfhC4NWC6IQWd0QZTbjUB4G2tBdEkiCzj_V1/s320/IMG_2545.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">West cliff of <i>Huangshan</i></td></tr>
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If you could not see in the picture the little "ands" walking in the path the picture below makes it a bit clearer. That caused me some panic because I had to be back to <i>Huangshan's </i>train station at 6 pm to get my night train to <i>Fuzhou-Xiamen</i>. And, then we were spending almost 1 hour to walk some very short distances.</div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI6mlRbnqdSHGhEMaUAdfLgc6WEHEOqwTi-HiYWTXbZXoUn3Jy2Twv1Td0R4MKjpFwWZ2fE_1oJTsma0cv-YTTs9RexaZHBrOKig4PGGTRT_wFb-OvH6spsxULIu1o-xOli9JDbuvc5bQg/s1600/IMG_2552.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI6mlRbnqdSHGhEMaUAdfLgc6WEHEOqwTi-HiYWTXbZXoUn3Jy2Twv1Td0R4MKjpFwWZ2fE_1oJTsma0cv-YTTs9RexaZHBrOKig4PGGTRT_wFb-OvH6spsxULIu1o-xOli9JDbuvc5bQg/s320/IMG_2552.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">"Traffic" in the trail</td></tr>
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Here we could understand why the entrance tickets are getting so expensive. It's not a simple question of making money but to put visitor flow under the park capacity. New price rises will be inevitable or even the creation of maximum quota of visitors per day.<br />
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Here one of the most impressive pictures I saw in <i>Huangshan</i>. A group of tourists in a tiny trail - which however are not dangerous - and a huge mountain of rocks and green in the back.</div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKvXBTZ2vD0njVeW7XuCb_CNEmdYtRaV6IkCJqjlQiGXrahxNVaTbwbKlfHDSBIimKFJn4vq69SgYJFOJVSm4QI4CiThxei3E6rC7wkgLxpizFk-yRMmOFhd9RtcI32Rw0_2N9EgvniB7c/s1600/IMG_2563.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKvXBTZ2vD0njVeW7XuCb_CNEmdYtRaV6IkCJqjlQiGXrahxNVaTbwbKlfHDSBIimKFJn4vq69SgYJFOJVSm4QI4CiThxei3E6rC7wkgLxpizFk-yRMmOFhd9RtcI32Rw0_2N9EgvniB7c/s320/IMG_2563.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">One of the most impressive views in <i>Huangshan</i></td></tr>
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From there we started to go down - or, to be more specific, to find our way down. You need to get to the cablecar area, and, instead of going down, keep going straight walking through the <i>Welcome Pine </i> - nothing but a big and famous pine - and then keep going up and down until finally the stairs will show up at your right.</div>
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I went down with <i>Robert </i>talking about moutains, culture, the Netherlands, Brazil, and enjoying the views.</div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieIyATTNxSpnb8xO-pQU_ewZAQPmJEudcd6rsDGJ8Gv6nKGdvKucCJYAA02xJEKa8ARS3JgrAvj_9mp2jrGOCBD33ZsSR5TCirs315LMNMGvae-zZ6p3cLgh9Phgfrg9ZOOaVs4aYVanFU/s1600/IMG_25711.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieIyATTNxSpnb8xO-pQU_ewZAQPmJEudcd6rsDGJ8Gv6nKGdvKucCJYAA02xJEKa8ARS3JgrAvj_9mp2jrGOCBD33ZsSR5TCirs315LMNMGvae-zZ6p3cLgh9Phgfrg9ZOOaVs4aYVanFU/s320/IMG_25711.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Views from the West side of the moutain</td></tr>
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Every 30 min we stopped to have rest and drink some water. Then, gradually the prices of everything started go down too and we found lots of stalls selling medals for those who completed the circuit. Many tourists were buying the medals even if they didn't go up or down on foot.</div>
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Well, I was really really tired, maybe the most tiring day in the whole trip. But, well, it was worth it. I was happy that I won that intensive and worthy challenge in my birthday. It was a real gift and I was glad that I had the chance to do it. I hope that the next years can offer so great experiences like the time between my birthdays in 2011 and 2012. Oh, and so I would not forget I bought a medal to "prize" myself for the achievement.</div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw9niEkjuJRBDVMxwEN64RQXsPgV2aBrbL_CSgtVDzJglrm5OR7ii2SKCXKHs-sKT8jDT-pinHnTQMHsTsXh64t91OFX467sYY1VVy3O-_vGmjZb9x-wNOj_VwQNqvTCcBB968AYUW11XM/s1600/IMG_2577.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw9niEkjuJRBDVMxwEN64RQXsPgV2aBrbL_CSgtVDzJglrm5OR7ii2SKCXKHs-sKT8jDT-pinHnTQMHsTsXh64t91OFX467sYY1VVy3O-_vGmjZb9x-wNOj_VwQNqvTCcBB968AYUW11XM/s320/IMG_2577.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Last unforgetable view of <i>Huangshan</i></td></tr>
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Next post will be the last about China, last stop in <i>Guolangya</i> and <i>Yongding </i>around the city of <i>Xiamen</i>.</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02152018193849879223noreply@blogger.com1Huangshan Mountain, Runzhou, Zhenjiang, China32.180499 119.43603832.1670595 119.416297 32.193938499999994 119.45577899999999tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4089077439641967020.post-69893471530057788532012-10-13T23:34:00.002+07:002012-10-16T23:59:47.086+07:00Aventuras na Montanha Amarela: Huangshan<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b>Post anterior: </b><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/10/a-big-apple-da-china-shanghai.html">A Big Apple da China: <i>Shanghai</i></a><br />
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<b><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/10/adventure-in-yellow-moutain-huangshan.html">English Version</a></b></div>
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<b>Intro</b><br />
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<i>Huangshan</i>, também conhecida como a <i>Montanha Amarela</i>, é um maciço de granito distribuído em 36 picos e atingindo mais de 1.800 m de altura. Olhar para esse tipo de montanha, e a sua mistura com a vegetação remete às clássicas pinturas chinesas. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://hellochina.us/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/Chinese-painting.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="226" src="http://hellochina.us/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/Chinese-painting.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pintura retratando <i>Huangshan</i></td></tr>
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<b>Pegando o trem em <i>Shanghai</i></b></div>
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Como eu já tinha comprado as passagens de trem fui diretamente para a estação ferroviária de <i>Shanghai</i>. Foi então que descobri que eu não teria direito a um assento do tipo <i>sleeper - </i>leito - e sim um <i>hard seat</i> - o assento mais barato. O meu trem era noturno e portanto isso era uma mensagem bem clara: uma noite muito mal dormida. Na área de <i>hard seat </i>as luzes nunca são apagadas, o A/C é muito forte, chegam e saem pessoas à cada parada, os assentos são pequenos e apertados e não há como reclinar as costas ou encostar a cabeça. Por outro lado, acredito que é a melhor experiência em termos de ficar realmente próximo e em contato com o povo chinês. Por sorte, no meio da madrugada o trem acabou ficando vazio e eu pude deitar no banco inteiro à minha volta.</div>
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<b>Chegando na cidade de <i>Huangshan</i></b></div>
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Há uma coisa importante: existe a montanha <i>Huangshan </i>e a cidade de <i>Huangshan</i>. Quando você chega na cidade de <i>Huangshan </i>ainda não quer dizer nada pois a montanha fica cerca de 1h de distância nas cercanias da cidade de <i>Tangkou</i>. Logo que você sai do trem há algumas vans e ônibus procurando por passageiros pra fazer esse trajeto (16 RMB). E, se tiver sorte, você também encontra alguns outros estrangeiros que possam falar inglês e se agrupar. Acabei encontrando dois italianos, Giulia e Andrei, que planejavam subir e descer a montanha na mesma programação que eu, e então fomos juntos dali pra frente. Convém adquirir um mapa da montanha por 7 RMB escrito em chinês e inglês. Na própria montanha os mapas geralmente são vendidos apenas em chinês.</div>
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<b>Chegando na montanha <i>Huangshan</i></b></div>
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Pegamos o ônibus e ao chegarmos em <i>Tangkou </i>fomos encontrar algum lugar pra deixar nossa bagagem mais pesada comprarmos água, comida e forrarmos o estômago antes de encarar a subida. Por volta das 14h fomos para a montanha. Pra isso ainda é necessário pagar cerca de 21 RMB por um ônibus até o começo da trilha e, ao chegarmos lá mais uma taxa salgada de 230 RMB (o preço muda de acordo com a estação e também são aceitas carteirinhas de estudante p/ desconto de 50%).</div>
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<b>Caminhos e trilhas</b></div>
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Existem duas formas e caminhos de descer/subir a montanha. Você pode fazer uso dos bondinhos, o que geralmente é a solução escolhida por pessoas mais velhas e os que estiverem cansados, ou, você pode subir ou descer a pé. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://wikitravel.org/upload/shared//thumb/5/5f/Huangshan_trail_map1.gif/480px-Huangshan_trail_map1.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://wikitravel.org/upload/shared//thumb/5/5f/Huangshan_trail_map1.gif/480px-Huangshan_trail_map1.gif" width="256" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mapa das trilhas em <i>Huangshan</i></td></tr>
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Ainda existem dois lados em que é possível descer/subir a montanha. O lado leste e o oeste. Uma rota clássica - a que eu fiz - é subir pelo lado leste e descer pelo oeste no dia seguinte. É feita desse jeito porque o lado leste é difícil e leva 3-4 horas para completar, porém é possível, o lado oeste é muito mais cansativo e pode levar até 6-8 horas para ser completado. Portanto, é melhor descê-lo. Uma vez que você chegou no topo ainda há uma série de sobes e desces que tornam a caminhada ainda mais cansativa.</div>
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<b>Subindo pelo lado leste</b></div>
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Começamos nossa empreitada debaixo de um pouco de chuva, neblina e muuuuita subida. Tem-se a sensação de que a montanha é infinita. A cada lance enorme de escadas, mais outros e outros e mais outros e nunca termina. Essa rota também é utilizada por homens de carga que carregam tudo, desde lençóis dos hotéis, até garrafas d'água e comida e até pessoas que não querem/podem fazer a subida com as próprias pernas em cadeirinhas.</div>
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Os italianos ainda estavam carregando todos os apetrechos para acamparem no topo, o que obviamente demandava ainda mais energia. E, a Giulia, fissurada em fotografia, tinha um trabalhão para arrumar suas 2 câmeras DSLR e 3 lentes. Não foi à toa que depois, no topo, no dia seguinte, eles acabaram desistindo de completar a caminhada e resolveram descer de bonde. Enfim, até aqui a promessa de paisagens espetaculares fazia-nos continuar subindo com força e determinação. </div>
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As vezes ficávamos um pouco desanimados. Para todo lugar que você olhasse a única coisa a ser vista era o cinza da neblina. Algumas vezes um pedacinho ou outro da montanha fazia uma aparição mas em menos de 10 minutos já sumia novamente.</div>
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<b>Chegamos</b></div>
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Após 3 horas de muito esforço e cansaço, conseguimos chegar no topo da montanha. O problema é que é apenas ainda um dos topos, e para andar ou ver qualquer coisa ainda tem muita subida pela frente. Fomos então tentar ver um dos picos que era bem próximo dali.</div>
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<b><i>Begin to Believe Peak</i></b></div>
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Esse pico tem esse nome pois segundo a história era tão maravilhoso que as pessoas nem acreditavam que haviam chegado nele. Para nós, a princípio o pico nem era tão grande coisa porque não dava pra ver absolutamente nada a partir dele.</div>
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Foi então que...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigpK1xY5ZuwnZN96i-iorMHg0_i2Tk-yTpJajLuBQ_o0ph1LgwCRJ6dtRgRdwgT4TvH_fJLPKglXg1lcdDDszDANRGnm4VpgVbsrpOSkg3p3Uch5Qik_5OJ6tnQAHC-VIMt0XK3Om3UA97/s1600/IMG_2273.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigpK1xY5ZuwnZN96i-iorMHg0_i2Tk-yTpJajLuBQ_o0ph1LgwCRJ6dtRgRdwgT4TvH_fJLPKglXg1lcdDDszDANRGnm4VpgVbsrpOSkg3p3Uch5Qik_5OJ6tnQAHC-VIMt0XK3Om3UA97/s320/IMG_2273.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Foto de <i>Huangshan </i>no <i>Begin To Believe Peak</i></td></tr>
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Desde agora vou fazer um aviso. As fotos não contam nem 50% do impacto que é estar vendo com os próprios olhos esse lugar. É simplesmente mágico! As nuvens sumiram e de repente havia uma série de montanhas e picos ali na nossa frente. Ficamos eufóricos e corremos para tirar fotos. Conforme o vento mudava as montanhas sumiam e apareciam e apesar de estar muito nublado era uma paisagem fantástica. Porém, mal sabíamos que o melhor seria reservado para o dia seguinte...</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7K7Kk4Uaa9aiWd7GspQENcUxeKoCT8dExYfl2fmvz7IIR2zbzqSXnS69sJbW3jfFXIMa3hF-U2lpCmDJONFN7K8eeOVuNuABjpyFxGK25PuI9VxirMVsk4B7O5wAdU3zgbC7klLU31CSZ/s1600/IMG_2274.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7K7Kk4Uaa9aiWd7GspQENcUxeKoCT8dExYfl2fmvz7IIR2zbzqSXnS69sJbW3jfFXIMa3hF-U2lpCmDJONFN7K8eeOVuNuABjpyFxGK25PuI9VxirMVsk4B7O5wAdU3zgbC7klLU31CSZ/s320/IMG_2274.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Foto de <i>Huangshan</i>, vale próximo ao hotel <i>Beihai</i></td></tr>
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<b>À noite</b></div>
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Para que seja possível tirar maior proveito da montanha, descansar e ainda ver o sol nascer, a melhor opção é dormir lá em cima. A opção mais barata é trazer sua própria barraca e acampar na frente do <i>Beihai Hotel</i> por 30 RMB. Se, por outro lado, você quiser dormir numa barraca deles vai custar 200 RMB. Se você quiser dormir no dormitório dividindo o quarto com mais 5 pessoas vai ser 280 RMB - o que eu fiz. E, finalmente, se você quiser quartos normais com todas as regalias, se prepare pra deixar + 1000-2000 RMB. Ou seja, é extremamente caro. Dado que levar sua própria barraca gasta muita energia - vide os colegas italianos - acredito que a melhor opção seja então dormir na barraca ou no dormitório. As vagas de dormitório devem ser reservadas com antecedência porque é difícil consegui-las.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVJwdsr5WRu_f2OYtFpNGuPv5lzinG-wWiUBBDaEhWa7IiGND0HdH-5Q9dkElNsgSXwT8FMusHM_iGKW9RdE_2UiPiIVUZFDs6g990dugaxyS1P90A-MGOBN4z85e13Yu9DXHbvgjxbYpi/s1600/IMG_2284.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVJwdsr5WRu_f2OYtFpNGuPv5lzinG-wWiUBBDaEhWa7IiGND0HdH-5Q9dkElNsgSXwT8FMusHM_iGKW9RdE_2UiPiIVUZFDs6g990dugaxyS1P90A-MGOBN4z85e13Yu9DXHbvgjxbYpi/s320/IMG_2284.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Os italianos e eu</td></tr>
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Eu e os italianos queríamos comer mas estava difícil encontrar algo razoavelmente barato. Para se ter uma idéia, os mini-mercados que existem lá em cima são proibidos pelos hotéis de vender macarrão instantâneo. Porém, um dos donos dos mini-mercados chamou a gente num canto e perguntou se queríamos comprar desde que não falássemos para ninguém onde havíamos conseguido. Topamos e saiu por cerca de 15 RMB cada potinho. Fiquei junto com os italianos na barraca deles até que ficasse mais tarde e aí eu fui pro meu quarto no hotel.<br />
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<b>Nascer do sol</b><br />
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Uma das grandes atrações naturais em <i>Huangshan </i>é assistir ao nascer do sol. E, de acordo com a previsão meteorológica do dia anterior tínhamos uma chance de 70% de que isso fosse ocorrer. Há ainda alguns picos melhores para ver isso e um deles é o <i>Lion Peak</i>.<br />
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<b><i>Lion Peak</i></b><br />
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Vou ficar devendo em falar sobre o porquê desse nome. Não faço idéia. Mas, acordamos as 4h da manhã, ajudei os italianos a desmontarem a barraca deles e fomos em direção a esse pico. Quer dizer, não só a gente mas uma horda de turistas, gringos e chineses. Quando chegamos lá já havia alguma competição para ver quem pegava os melhores lugares.<br />
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Há algumas coisas sobre <i>Huangshan</i>, uma são as pedras com formas curiosas - por exemplo, nessa foto você pode ver o <i>macaco </i>sentado no canto esquerdo. E, como dá pra ver no fundo, há um mar de nuvens. Então, essa vista é chamada como <i>O Macaco observando o mar de nuvens</i>.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfKAWIkDNItnrJpvOGOhMfNG3Qw5Y57guHTXAfwmUJxzr9XwO80UjDA8YWa-A59trsmj-gxduEDstiRH-m95iqQ-qT-IVifwmJKWzo82DYikN8L_s2z32UDMDV0diN2RPHS0-TtaLcNmgL/s1600/IMG_2316.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfKAWIkDNItnrJpvOGOhMfNG3Qw5Y57guHTXAfwmUJxzr9XwO80UjDA8YWa-A59trsmj-gxduEDstiRH-m95iqQ-qT-IVifwmJKWzo82DYikN8L_s2z32UDMDV0diN2RPHS0-TtaLcNmgL/s320/IMG_2316.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vista<i> O Macaco observando o mar de nuvens</i></td></tr>
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Foi então que eu tive meus 5 minutos de pânico. Eu tinha deixado a câmera dentro da bolsa, porém tinha deixado a bolsa aberta e quando eu fui subir em cima de uma pedra pra ter uma vista melhor só escutei um barulho de algo pesado caindo no chão. Quando fui ver me entregaram minha câmera. Fiquei desesperado! Mas, por pouco não aconteceu nada - ela havia caído sobre uma minúscula área de terra no meio das pedras - e apenas o filtro UV quebrou.<br />
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Assistimos ao nascer do sol, que pra mim tinha um significado especial porque era meu 24o aniversário, sim, comemorado internamente ali na montanha. E, pelo céu aberto e com poucas nuvens altas, dava pra ver que eu ganharia um ótimo presente, o único dia ensolarado em mais de 1 semana e em plena estação chuvosa! :)<br />
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Antes que pudéssemos continuar nossa caminhada porém, nossa amiga Giulia começou a passar mal com problemas no estômago e isso já começou a indicar que eu e os italianos iríamos nos separar mais pra frente.<br />
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<b>No caminho para a <i>Flying Rock</i></b><br />
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Enquanto andávamos em direção à <i>Flying Rock </i>- uma das rochas marcantes de <i>Huangshan</i> - acabamos tendo vistas impressionantes no caminho. Como essa:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjef1-CNS1cy4a8Q3xj1SoWH_xYDtyhyphenhyphen60OLY6LB_xB2QTLHj-OMyW9V2ijXurvsm9KlkSt5VMqabdnQzjoJeLPKEezOfz9oM4zq63hdUhanS8c43WVU8x_JFELp3MNnQbMoVNrU0vaYV0w/s1600/IMG_2371.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjef1-CNS1cy4a8Q3xj1SoWH_xYDtyhyphenhyphen60OLY6LB_xB2QTLHj-OMyW9V2ijXurvsm9KlkSt5VMqabdnQzjoJeLPKEezOfz9oM4zq63hdUhanS8c43WVU8x_JFELp3MNnQbMoVNrU0vaYV0w/s320/IMG_2371.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vista de vale a caminho da <i>Flying Rock</i></td></tr>
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Meus amigos italianos mostravam cada vez mais dificuldade de acompanhar o sobe e desce das trilhas, mas ainda assim se mantinham firmes na sua determinação. A Giulia porém, por estar com náuseas e dor de estômago, não pode acompanhar-nos na parada seguinte.<br />
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<b><i>The Flying Rock</i></b><br />
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Depois de uma seqüência bizarra de escadas e mais escadas, com algumas paradas para descanso, e, muito cansaço, conseguimos chegar até a <i>Flying Rock</i>. Pela foto da pra ver que o nome é um tanto óbvio. Um pedaço de pedra numa forma de lança no topo de um abismo.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbrbE-3pfGC4tytbhes6KXsdQwjaEtwqYqSkBrRSZ28G8xY1GGS7LNx7RHItPGk_hwcw_PDK8kjrCiXinV7V1SR6gB79WwsMUXEYVvCo9fkfz3TFn5NJh0vRrkZtg1rpbo_TGQFH9-ADI2/s1600/IMG_2390.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbrbE-3pfGC4tytbhes6KXsdQwjaEtwqYqSkBrRSZ28G8xY1GGS7LNx7RHItPGk_hwcw_PDK8kjrCiXinV7V1SR6gB79WwsMUXEYVvCo9fkfz3TFn5NJh0vRrkZtg1rpbo_TGQFH9-ADI2/s320/IMG_2390.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vista da <i>Flying Rock</i></td></tr>
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As vistas a partir dessa pedra eram espetaculares. Toda a área conhecida como <i>West Canyon</i>, cheia de picos, paredões, abismos e vegetação misturados. Sem dúvida, uma das coisas mais bonitas e diferentes que já vi na vida.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4NA6xYn-vzfLm0HhCcKw16hXvIuLUIiB7PT4UaRkXyc2gGKAUTUfQi_HJuXzPpV0-4H7Kq_-qhuqQKL1arSQZdt68WRbRQWN2HHvpJon35z-hu3kobleMQqlfWXANMqtaFdeYeP9ZM9ko/s1600/IMG_2394.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4NA6xYn-vzfLm0HhCcKw16hXvIuLUIiB7PT4UaRkXyc2gGKAUTUfQi_HJuXzPpV0-4H7Kq_-qhuqQKL1arSQZdt68WRbRQWN2HHvpJon35z-hu3kobleMQqlfWXANMqtaFdeYeP9ZM9ko/s320/IMG_2394.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vista do <i>West Canyon </i>a partir da <i>Flying Rock</i></td></tr>
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De lá ainda podíamos avistar algumas trilhas e caminhos que foram construídos nas encostas das montanhas. Essas trilhas são quase que totalmente suspensas, uma verdadeira obra de ousadia. Imagine como deve ter sido a construção dessas passarelas?</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL6ZyHhoomditr1eQl84P3QMp5ro-KZsY8sScun-tWBkKHMj2zpLEDqMkVHtSNVGFf5tPLyd9dD8Bhj06S2kuRgKQ_Pobt557LZIbVxkJVNhw3J4zz0pCbeudUyDEKwlevDQPnQFOCDuHz/s1600/IMG_2401.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL6ZyHhoomditr1eQl84P3QMp5ro-KZsY8sScun-tWBkKHMj2zpLEDqMkVHtSNVGFf5tPLyd9dD8Bhj06S2kuRgKQ_Pobt557LZIbVxkJVNhw3J4zz0pCbeudUyDEKwlevDQPnQFOCDuHz/s320/IMG_2401.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Passarelas nos paredões do <i>West Canyon</i></td></tr>
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Feita nossa visita à <i>Flying Rock</i>, fomos em direção ao outro lado, na verdade, pegamos todo o caminho de volta que havíamos passado - as subidas intermináveis se converteram em descidas sem fim - em direção ao <i>West Canyon</i>. Pegaríamos a trilha que desce até o centro desse abismo de montanhas e energia e disposição nunca seriam tão importantes como agora. Aos poucos também notamos que a montanha começava a ficar cheia e que mais e mais turistas chineses estavam chegando.</div>
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<i><b>Começo do West Canyon</b></i></div>
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O <i>West Canyon </i>é uma trilha relativamente nova em <i>Huangshan </i>e começa por detrás do <i>Xihai Hotel</i>. As paisagens são espetaculares e talvez as mais incríveis e memoráveis de toda a montanha. Como a trilha é bastante exigente - são escadas praticamente o tempo todo - os grandes grupos de turismo não se arriscam a descê-la, portanto é mais fácil de aproveitar a natureza nessa etapa.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuYvjzVe0voHOtTnlgBAADZHIlaJbG227S_8NCRjfvYuraZgLAY4FxttyUI0usMGLzeJCao6XENUBCIc5YLpY8BlZCBIO8GFevxP7gZFOIsGwJe5orQ4qWLFX1r8tIkRXe8aabvb-S2eXO/s1600/IMG_2453.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuYvjzVe0voHOtTnlgBAADZHIlaJbG227S_8NCRjfvYuraZgLAY4FxttyUI0usMGLzeJCao6XENUBCIc5YLpY8BlZCBIO8GFevxP7gZFOIsGwJe5orQ4qWLFX1r8tIkRXe8aabvb-S2eXO/s320/IMG_2453.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Me impressiona o fato de que as montanhas chinesas sejam tão pouco conhecidas internacionalmente. Pouquíssimas pessoas mencionaram <i>Huangshan </i>em seus planos de viagem. Concordo que não é o lugar mais fácil do mundo para chegar, porém, não é tão difícil também, fica entre 6 a 12 h de <i>Shanghai </i>(ônibus x trem), e também é servida por aeroportos. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp8LtpXxJ3aToYolg5W7CeNXlnE8VM8bcSFm0rFwW1w0iNCK5hu5vmEFQdcYoaeWjF2lw6Aojaotjde-wsxcD7tQtsWiwKOqHoC00lDSxO8hQesQtJpfQn_fE8mxKEQmYZFiQXOCC0FFtz/s1600/IMG_2466.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp8LtpXxJ3aToYolg5W7CeNXlnE8VM8bcSFm0rFwW1w0iNCK5hu5vmEFQdcYoaeWjF2lw6Aojaotjde-wsxcD7tQtsWiwKOqHoC00lDSxO8hQesQtJpfQn_fE8mxKEQmYZFiQXOCC0FFtz/s320/IMG_2466.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b><i>Descendo o West Canyon</i></b></div>
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A paisagem das montanhas era simplesmente maravilhosa. Um dia ensolarado era perfeito para dar a cores mais vivas a <i>Huangshan</i>. Um verdadeiro presente de aniversário, com certeza!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyE6jItF4sANCZr4kKpRzF-nRpri-dXHA0cnwBB04I8ng1TUsznUglvDAvq_oaIja2F58mynez3GH_Db8N94IDxE76EuMm9sHmDtOQN87zrWMkXHdJy5TepcoheTXKznSgehGEaW2fjhTg/s1600/IMG_2473.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyE6jItF4sANCZr4kKpRzF-nRpri-dXHA0cnwBB04I8ng1TUsznUglvDAvq_oaIja2F58mynez3GH_Db8N94IDxE76EuMm9sHmDtOQN87zrWMkXHdJy5TepcoheTXKznSgehGEaW2fjhTg/s200/IMG_2473.JPG" width="133" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Passarela para descer o <i>West Canyon</i></td></tr>
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Conforme descíamos para o fundo do <i>Canyon </i>íamos vendo as paisagens esculpidas de rochas, pinheiros e outras árvores que formavam essas combinações tão inusitadas. Também, os caminhos que tínhamos visto da <i>Flying Rock</i>, agora estávamos andando sobre eles. O número de turistas nessa área era realmente muito reduzido quando comparado com as outras partes de <i>Huangshan</i> mas algumas vezes alguns chineses conversaram com a gente pois queriam tirar fotos conosco. </div>
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<span style="text-align: justify;">Após termos descido o </span><i style="text-align: justify;">West Canyon </i><span style="text-align: justify;">quase inteiro conhecemos </span><i style="text-align: justify;">Robert</i><span style="text-align: justify;">, um holandês que tinha traçado o mesmo plano de trilha que nós. Algumas frases trocadas e logo descobrimos que o mapa que tínhamos estava desatualizado e conexão de trilha que esperávamos encontrar no fundo do </span><i style="text-align: justify;">West Canyon </i><span style="text-align: justify;">não existia. Em outras palavras, tudo o que descemos teríamos que subir E, além disso, subir até a </span><i style="text-align: justify;">Flying Rock </i><span style="text-align: justify;">novamente para continuar o caminho no topo da montanha. Pois bem, enfrentamos toda a subida novamente e, quando chegamos ao topo, meus colegas italianos desistiram e foram descansar. Iriam buscar descer a montanha de teleférico - mesmo assim a caminhada até chegar no teleférico não era pequena e envolvia muito cansaço pela frente.</span><br />
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<b>Buscando a saída da montanha</b></div>
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Uma quantidade absurda de pessoas, calor, cansaço, e mapas confusos tornaram a tarefa de achar a trilha que descia a montanha pelo lado oeste um verdadeiro desafio. Pegamos alguns engarrafamentos formidáveis nas trilhas. Na verdade, o fluxo de visitantes é tão grande que uma boa parte do caminho contém demarcações de sentido.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiniFzYxNhdAo1i0X6OEmPH-OBms9sO99ljC0ghSuK9somH4LIWwV0-2VbGbw1nt44JEEZpsHsBrO9687g0K4nUshy-gjDzS4LFP01FWfD5gfhC4NWC6IQWd0QZTbjUB4G2tBdEkiCzj_V1/s1600/IMG_2545.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiniFzYxNhdAo1i0X6OEmPH-OBms9sO99ljC0ghSuK9somH4LIWwV0-2VbGbw1nt44JEEZpsHsBrO9687g0K4nUshy-gjDzS4LFP01FWfD5gfhC4NWC6IQWd0QZTbjUB4G2tBdEkiCzj_V1/s320/IMG_2545.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Encosta oeste de <i>Huangshan</i></td></tr>
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Se não dava pra ver na foto as "formiguinhas" andando na encosta da montanha, nessa foto agora fica bem claro. Isso causou um certo pânico da minha parte porque eu tinha que estar antes das 18h de volta à estação de trem em <i>Huangshan </i>pra pegar meu trem noturno com destino <i>Fuzhou-Xiamen</i>. E, de repente estávamos gastando quase 1 hora pra andar trechos muito curtos.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI6mlRbnqdSHGhEMaUAdfLgc6WEHEOqwTi-HiYWTXbZXoUn3Jy2Twv1Td0R4MKjpFwWZ2fE_1oJTsma0cv-YTTs9RexaZHBrOKig4PGGTRT_wFb-OvH6spsxULIu1o-xOli9JDbuvc5bQg/s1600/IMG_2552.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI6mlRbnqdSHGhEMaUAdfLgc6WEHEOqwTi-HiYWTXbZXoUn3Jy2Twv1Td0R4MKjpFwWZ2fE_1oJTsma0cv-YTTs9RexaZHBrOKig4PGGTRT_wFb-OvH6spsxULIu1o-xOli9JDbuvc5bQg/s320/IMG_2552.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Trânsito" nas trilhas</td></tr>
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Aqui dá pra entender porque o custo para entrar no parque está ficando tão caro. Não é uma mera questão arrecadatória mas principalmente de adequação à capacidade do parque de suportar tantos visitantes. Novos aumentos de preço serão inevitáveis ou ainda a criação de uma cota máximo de visitantes por dia.<br />
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Aqui, mais uma foto das paisagens mais impressionantes que vi em <i>Huangshan</i>. Um monte de turistas apinhados em trilhas estreitas - que porém não chegam a ser perigosas - e uma montanha gigantesca feita de pedras e verde no fundo.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Uma das vistas mais impressionantes em <i>Huangshan</i></td></tr>
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A partir dali iniciamos o caminha da descida - ou melhor, de achar o caminha da descida. É necessário chegar até a área do teleférico e, ao invés de descer em direção a ele, seguir em frente passando pelo <i>Welcome Pine </i>- nada mais que um pinheiro grande e famoso - e andar mais e mais subindo e descendo, até que finalmente uma escadaria aparece à direita.</div>
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Descemos eu e o <i>Robert</i> conversando sobre as montanhas, a cultura, Holanda, Brasil, e apreciando a paisagem. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieIyATTNxSpnb8xO-pQU_ewZAQPmJEudcd6rsDGJ8Gv6nKGdvKucCJYAA02xJEKa8ARS3JgrAvj_9mp2jrGOCBD33ZsSR5TCirs315LMNMGvae-zZ6p3cLgh9Phgfrg9ZOOaVs4aYVanFU/s1600/IMG_25711.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieIyATTNxSpnb8xO-pQU_ewZAQPmJEudcd6rsDGJ8Gv6nKGdvKucCJYAA02xJEKa8ARS3JgrAvj_9mp2jrGOCBD33ZsSR5TCirs315LMNMGvae-zZ6p3cLgh9Phgfrg9ZOOaVs4aYVanFU/s320/IMG_25711.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vista da montanha por detrás da trilha oeste nas descida</td></tr>
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A cada 30 minutos andando fazíamos uma parada para descansar e tomar água. Aos poucos os preços das coisas foram baixando também e encontramos várias barraquinhas vendendo medalhas para quem completou a caminhada. Vários turistas compram as medalhas mesmo sem ter subido e descido a montanha a pé. </div>
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Bom, eu estava morto, talvez o dia em que estive mais cansado em toda a viagem. Porém, valeu a pena. Eu estava feliz por ter vencido esse desafio tão intenso e recompensador no dia do meu aniversário. Foi realmente um presente e uma alegria ter tido essa chance. Espero que os próximos anos possam oferecer experiências tão grandiosas quanto as que tive entre o meu aniversário em 2011 e o de 2012. Ah, e para guardar de memória comprei uma medalha para "me premiar" pela conquista! </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw9niEkjuJRBDVMxwEN64RQXsPgV2aBrbL_CSgtVDzJglrm5OR7ii2SKCXKHs-sKT8jDT-pinHnTQMHsTsXh64t91OFX467sYY1VVy3O-_vGmjZb9x-wNOj_VwQNqvTCcBB968AYUW11XM/s1600/IMG_2577.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw9niEkjuJRBDVMxwEN64RQXsPgV2aBrbL_CSgtVDzJglrm5OR7ii2SKCXKHs-sKT8jDT-pinHnTQMHsTsXh64t91OFX467sYY1VVy3O-_vGmjZb9x-wNOj_VwQNqvTCcBB968AYUW11XM/s320/IMG_2577.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Última vista inesquecível de <i>Huangshan</i></td></tr>
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O próximo será o último post sobre a China, a última parada em <i>Guolangya </i>e <i>Yongding</i> próximos a cidade de <i>Xiamen</i>. </div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02152018193849879223noreply@blogger.com0Huangshan Mountain, Runzhou, Zhenjiang, China32.180499 119.43603832.1670595 119.416297 32.193938499999994 119.45577899999999tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4089077439641967020.post-1061546666481925512012-10-11T20:56:00.002+07:002012-10-17T00:01:13.257+07:00China's Big Apple: Shanghai<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b>Previous Post: </b><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/10/suzhou-and-its-gardens.html">Suzhou and its gardens</a><br />
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<a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/10/a-big-apple-da-china-shanghai.html"><b>Portuguese Version</b></a></div>
<b><br /></b><b>Intro</b><br />
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Finally I reached the biggest and most developed city of China, and also ranked among the most influent cities of the world. <i>Shanghai</i> was a secondary minor city, less important than <i>Nanjing, Hangzhou </i>or <i>Suzhou</i> until the Opium War. After that, the city, which is strategically placed next to the sea and big rivers coming from inner China, was compulsorily openned to trade. </div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRRdhNh8_px45agmMhRvBzejwG0rDLrfWB5pevA0GWPHnBdr7wu" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRRdhNh8_px45agmMhRvBzejwG0rDLrfWB5pevA0GWPHnBdr7wu" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Location of <i>Shanghai </i>in China</td></tr>
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In 1842, eight Western countries - Germany, France, Italy, Russia, Austro-Hungarian Empire, US and UK - and Japan were granted territorial concessions which worked as international independent areas. Even though most of the population were Chinese, the Chinese law did not apply in these areas. Since then <i>Shanghai</i> went through an economic, social and cultural boom becoming around the 20's and 30's the most developed city in East Asia.</div>
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<tr><td><a href="http://wikitravel.org/upload/shared//thumb/2/23/Shanghai1907.jpg/350px-Shanghai1907.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://wikitravel.org/upload/shared//thumb/2/23/Shanghai1907.jpg/350px-Shanghai1907.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Map of <i>Shanghai </i>in 1907</td></tr>
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<i>Shanghai </i>started to loose its prestige in 1937, after being conquered by Japanese and experiecing a sharp decline in trade even after it was returned to China. Following those events, after the Cultural Revolution, most of business and cultural influence fled to <i>Taiwan </i>and <i>Hong Kong</i>, starting decades of shadow coupled with communism power over China.</div>
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In 1990, <i>Shanghai </i>started to reborn from the ashes through a government programme that planned - and was successfull - to transform <i>Pudong </i>area in financial services center and also headquarter area for big companies. Nowadays, there's located the 3rd tallest building in the world, <i>Shanghai World Financial Center</i>. The city enjoys an extensive public transportation system, some great green areas, and lots of buildings in European style that remained from the old concessions. Add up to that a population of more than 23 million people and the dream of wealth for the rich - qualified professionals, university students, etc - and the poor - rural migrants looking for jobs.</div>
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<tr><td><a href="http://www.chinatouristmaps.com/assets/images/travelmapst/detailed-shanghai-map.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="233" src="http://www.chinatouristmaps.com/assets/images/travelmapst/detailed-shanghai-map.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Actual map of <i>Shanghai</i></td></tr>
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<b>Arriving in <i>Shanghai</i></b></div>
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As I planned I left <i>Suzhou</i> very early, around 7 am, and took the bullet train with destination to <i>Shanghai</i>. The trip didn't last 30 min and I arrived in the city's central station. I bought a map and found the way to my hostel in the central area. I was sleeping at the <i>Mingtown Nanjing Road Youth Hostel</i>, which had an excellent cost of 50-60 RMB/night in the dorm.</div>
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Location is everything around <i>Shanghai</i>, and you're gonna probably find lots of hostels around the whole city but it's worth to pay a little extra to stay next to the central area. There's an excellent subway system but it cannot take you everywhere, and, remember, if everything was far and big in whole China, imagine in the biggest city.</div>
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I left my stuff and looked for a train ticket branch - in the big cities you'll often find train ticket branches outside the train stations. This time I needed a combo <i>Shanghai -> Huanghsan -> Fuzhou -> Xiamen</i>. There is my last 4 train tickets to be bought in China. The city of <i>Fuzhou</i> was not a touristic stop, just technical, to change trains and get to <i>Xiamen</i>. Some may br asking why I would do that in my first hour after I got to <i>Shanghai</i>. The answer is that train tickets must be bought in advance in China, otherwise you'd rik yourself to get a standing ticket - yeah, exactly, no seat - or, getting some boring overstay and loose your itinerary.</div>
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<b>Purchasing the tickets</b><br />
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As I got more experienced on that, I asked a hostel employee to write down all my needs in Chinese in a little paper. Then, I reached the train ticket counter I just had to show them the paper. Still, there were some doubts - apparently the teller could not believe that some arrivals/departures were so close to each other, but, yeah, that was my plan. What wasn't part of my plan was that she misunderstood me - and I realized that too late - and instead of taking sleeper seats - so I could sleep - she took all hard seats - which basically means no sleep at all while you'll get 90o seats squeezed with many other Chinese. So I got happy for the next days without knowing about my conditions in the train to <i>Huangshan</i>.</div>
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<b>Time to meet <i>Shanghai!</i></b></div>
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A map, a bag, an umbrella and it's time to get on the street to explore this giant!</div>
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<b><i>Yuyuan Gardens</i></b></div>
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The story of the the <i>Yuyuan Gardens </i>goes back to 1559, during <i>Ming </i>dynasty, when <i>Pan Yundan </i>decided to build a sumptuous garden - it came to be the largest and most prestigious one in <i>Shanghai </i>at that time - to his father <i>Pan En</i>.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tB50Nc_2NKI/UHMKpdpsffI/AAAAAAAACfY/gf9ZHfcqItg/s1600/IMG_1960.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tB50Nc_2NKI/UHMKpdpsffI/AAAAAAAACfY/gf9ZHfcqItg/s320/IMG_1960.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Inside of <i>Yuyuan Gardens</i></td></tr>
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However, expenses with the construction would eventually led the family to bankruptcy. Since then the garden changed many hands, was taken by the British during the Opium War and by the Japanese during WW2, finally being reopenned to public in 1961. The entrance costs 40 RMB.<br />
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<span style="text-align: justify;"></span><b><i>Around Yuyuan Gardens</i></b><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-z7DYseM17g8/UHMNjrA4leI/AAAAAAAACfo/KpG3njkuJkc/s1600/IMG_1982.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-z7DYseM17g8/UHMNjrA4leI/AAAAAAAACfo/KpG3njkuJkc/s200/IMG_1982.JPG" width="133" /></a><br />
Maybe more interesting than the gardens itself is the neighborhood around. A big commercial area with plenty of traditional Chinese style buildings which were restored to give room to dozens of stores that offer from souveniers to meals. A good time to buy little gifts and put your bargaining skills on practice. Be ready to ask 5-6x less than the advertised price, and buy at that value. The walking away tatic works!<br />
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<tr><td><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-t9qCGGKH92s/UHMMrCXehgI/AAAAAAAACfg/VLgDAZf1IU0/s1600/IMG_1956.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-t9qCGGKH92s/UHMMrCXehgI/AAAAAAAACfg/VLgDAZf1IU0/s320/IMG_1956.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">The view around <i>Yuyuan Gardens</i></td></tr>
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<b><i>City God's Temple</i></b></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JaowfpL3MwM/UHMPlOcaryI/AAAAAAAACfw/hN5o4faIwSk/s1600/IMG_1985.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JaowfpL3MwM/UHMPlOcaryI/AAAAAAAACfw/hN5o4faIwSk/s200/IMG_1985.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Temple's facade pciture</td></tr>
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This is a tiny temple next to the gardens and the entrance costs only 10 RMB. It's not so special if you're not a Buddhist. Maybe the most attractive thing is the temple's facade, quite adorned, however it could be seen for free from outside.</div>
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<b><i>There's still China in Shanghai</i></b></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YN0HF1AoZX4/UHMR3g0DW2I/AAAAAAAACf4/dl9xg0CyBJE/s1600/IMG_1991.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YN0HF1AoZX4/UHMR3g0DW2I/AAAAAAAACf4/dl9xg0CyBJE/s200/IMG_1991.JPG" width="133" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Picture of a small<br />
street in <i> Shanghai</i></td></tr>
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If you talk to people that went to <em>Shanghai </em>or even read books as <em>Lonely Planet </em>there's some significant chances that you end up seeing the city as something that do not represent real China, a modern <em>Frankenstein </em>created as a combination of years of Western and Eastern influences aimed to trade and commerce. Truth is that most parts of <em>Shanghai </em>do not look like other "Chinas" I've found in <em>Beijing</em>, <em>Datong</em>, <em>Pingyao</em> or <em>Xi´An</em>. However those cities did not look like <em>Nanjing </em>or <em>Suzhou</em>. As I've said before in another post, in a general manner, the cities located at China's Eastern coast are likely to be much more modern than the others, which is natural, since that are has been undergoing economic liberalization for many years already. That doesn't mean that the old China does not exist. You just need to walk, get lost, and.. suddenly...<br />
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Yeah, I suddenly found a rare place in <em>Shanghai</em> - chaos, mess, wires, chickens, dogs, sellers, typically Asia. For instants I found I had gone back to Cambodia - <em>Eric</em>, one of my Chinese friends once said that when he as born in the 80's, his city <em>Guangzhou</em> was quite similar to what he has seen in Cambodia. So, yes, the old China <em>is there</em>, we just can't get restricted to guide books about what's nice or what is not in a city. A simple walk would reveal interesting impressions.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: justify;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQsEfjLiTeGkhJ-O7TJsFEx_F72TALiCqgUv32EOZiMoH156iXHh9LxhZznRnS5GvSzTjwfDTQ3Rujw97FYnksrxeAh6bWUwZh2sqfeV6IMf5oNY8YTWq3J7z7bQoh2wm1gP_9_JoiMHit/s1600/IMG_1996.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQsEfjLiTeGkhJ-O7TJsFEx_F72TALiCqgUv32EOZiMoH156iXHh9LxhZznRnS5GvSzTjwfDTQ3Rujw97FYnksrxeAh6bWUwZh2sqfeV6IMf5oNY8YTWq3J7z7bQoh2wm1gP_9_JoiMHit/s320/IMG_1996.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">People walking in a small street of <i>Shanghai</i></td></tr>
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Since I was in the middle of the neighborhood I decided to explore it on foot and I noticed people were not that used to foreigners there. A maze of small alleys with small houses circled by avenues and buildings in construction - the own reflection of China in modern times. I bought an ice-cream - btw, ice-creams in China are wonderful and deserve an article about even taking into account the fact that I ended up with a red beans ice-cram! - and I went walking and observing people around, carrying everything and remembering some months ago. Then I thought about testing the prices and looked for a barber shop. I found and asked him to cut my hair and thought we had agreed in the price - 5 RMB. In the end I was giving him the 5 RMB bill when he showed me the 50 RMB bill. Obviously he was trying to cheat on me, but since 5 RMB was actually too cheap - even less than Cambodia - I paid him 10 RMB and left his shop.</div>
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<b><i>Is it possible to find Chinese enjoying free time in Shnaghai?</i></b></div>
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Curiously looked that my trip in <em>Shanghai</em> had been granted the mission to prove some mistakes from common sense about there. From what I read back in <em>Lonely Planet</em>, differently from other Chinese cities it would be much harder to find someone having free time or doing common and usual daily stuff because <em>Shanghai </em>was the chaos of black-tie men, the taxis and skyscrapers. Well, it did not take too long until I realized it was not that way. First with the small neighborhood I found and second, with a park in the <em>French Concession </em>area.</div>
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<b><i>Fuxing Park</i></b></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uz9iBA0jyQk/UHMY40Cy4WI/AAAAAAAACg4/0P8OviizLpo/s1600/IMG_2082.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uz9iBA0jyQk/UHMY40Cy4WI/AAAAAAAACg4/0P8OviizLpo/s200/IMG_2082.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Picture of <i>Fuxing Park</i> -<br />
French architecture</td></tr>
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<em>Fuxing Park </em>was built inside the <em>French Concession </em>and thus shows French architecture elements. My expectation was to find an empty park but it happened the opposite and I found Chinese elderly make active use of their free time.</div>
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Not so different from our <i>"serestas" </i>in Brazil - at least for someone who was born and raised in the countryside - there were many Chinese dancing, doing exercise, or just enjoying their free time in a Thursday morning.</div>
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<tr><td><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ATDlwleJH8A/UHMZfSg7wxI/AAAAAAAAChA/NwRbG2IDtg4/s1600/IMG_2085.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ATDlwleJH8A/UHMZfSg7wxI/AAAAAAAAChA/NwRbG2IDtg4/s320/IMG_2085.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Chinese dancing</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KRMQzKbfcxA/UHMbh3BnwTI/AAAAAAAAChI/aUooI8Wj3Jk/s1600/IMG_2089.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KRMQzKbfcxA/UHMbh3BnwTI/AAAAAAAAChI/aUooI8Wj3Jk/s320/IMG_2089.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Chinese in the park</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tvxU3V4x4Bg/UHMcQ_-_cdI/AAAAAAAAChQ/27ZpIULKxTg/s1600/IMG_2091.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tvxU3V4x4Bg/UHMcQ_-_cdI/AAAAAAAAChQ/27ZpIULKxTg/s200/IMG_2091.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Kid and grandpa playing</td></tr>
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There's some reflex of the Chinese society. The one child per family policy has been reducing Chinese families size generation after generation. Naturally, now young grandparents (~60) can help their son to raise their kids. For example, instead of hiring nannies, it's very common that the grandparents spend their free time with their grandchildren. There were many elderly and babies or young kids in the park.</div>
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<b><i>French Concession</i></b></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-c_A-cJiAAqY/UHMiYHLgTiI/AAAAAAAACiQ/mibnj2Oq1g8/s1600/IMG_2068.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-c_A-cJiAAqY/UHMiYHLgTiI/AAAAAAAACiQ/mibnj2Oq1g8/s200/IMG_2068.JPG" width="133" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">A street part of the<br />
<i>French Concession</i></td></tr>
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Also known as <i>La Concéssion Française de Shanghai</i>, this part of<i> Shanghai</i> will never be found with that name. This region was initially given to France in 1849, having its area expanded twice, in 1900 and 1914, and finally becoming not just a French settlement but the final destination of many Western imigrant nationalities. However, years of European culture have left its legacy with hundreds of architecture style buildings left behind, many trees and even churches.</div>
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To find the old <i>French Concession </i>you'll need to go to the districts of <i>Luwan </i>and <i>Xuhui</i>, easilly accessible by subway. In a general manner the region extends from the Center until South and West of <i>Shanghai</i> and can be better explored on foot. Unfortunatelly as it's not an open museum neither has the whole region been restored, there are "traces" of old architecture and history combined with modern buildings and other kinds of buildings. But, I'd recommend to do the tour. It's worth saying that a great number of the old buildings are being converted into luxury brands retail shops.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJAVO_e0PuqxHtHCHU6qpyP-B9tY5_O5Bu5PHIyefD9BT8dNVSMruE1X4f_-qLIbnY_uzjIgBQa7riodB1O5WslizMg1D-mU9jRrKFnhT9fYgtWipmRAuuH8RMQjdgQivPTfRBgxwt5ioS/s1600/IMG_2066.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJAVO_e0PuqxHtHCHU6qpyP-B9tY5_O5Bu5PHIyefD9BT8dNVSMruE1X4f_-qLIbnY_uzjIgBQa7riodB1O5WslizMg1D-mU9jRrKFnhT9fYgtWipmRAuuH8RMQjdgQivPTfRBgxwt5ioS/s320/IMG_2066.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Trees and traffic at the <i>French Concession</i></td></tr>
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It was lunch time and I was looking for some cheap food in the area - hard task. I ended up finding a small restaurant whe many construction workers had their meals. In a completely <i>finger pointing </i>communication I made myself clear and spent just 10 RMB for a delicious meal.</div>
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<b><i>Shanghai</i> at night</b></div>
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If <i>Shanghai </i>it's an interesting city during the day, at night is something incredible. In other words, <i>Shanghai has its full charm at night</i>. All the colors, buildings, get mixed and that creates a magic atmosphere in the city. Not by chance, some time ago, it was called <i>Paris of the East.</i></div>
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<b><i>The Bund</i></b></div>
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<tr><td><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ga3ERHJ0uAc/UHMosZ5QtBI/AAAAAAAACjQ/XMwVNzQApFY/s1600/IMG_2032.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ga3ERHJ0uAc/UHMosZ5QtBI/AAAAAAAACjQ/XMwVNzQApFY/s320/IMG_2032.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">European style building at <i>The</i> <i>Bund</i></td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZwVyEs_3Y49Fw03PUSZLx6m7r8Rke6_zVglYzSG3xR2ubcL_u7sYhidMt7zV1SJu-9E-eypJx54D6AFnEKjTpa-LLzRBlXVdt190d0rSSQMS4y7zWH1aWdqVyKzZPx4oML7_R5Mgga04K/s1600/IMG_2041.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZwVyEs_3Y49Fw03PUSZLx6m7r8Rke6_zVglYzSG3xR2ubcL_u7sYhidMt7zV1SJu-9E-eypJx54D6AFnEKjTpa-LLzRBlXVdt190d0rSSQMS4y7zWH1aWdqVyKzZPx4oML7_R5Mgga04K/s200/IMG_2041.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Traffic at <i>The</i> <i>Bund's </i>area</td></tr>
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<i>The Bund </i>is the name given to the West riverfront area in <i>Shanghai's </i>Center. <i>Bund </i>was a word from many possible origins which designates river banks. The <i>Bund </i>area was first developed to host banks, trade houses and consulates of the former European concessions. Further, in the 40's, Chinese financial institutions until the Cultural Revolution removed such usage and all foreign symbols. The <i>Bund </i>came back to live in 70's and 80's with <i>Deng Xiaoping</i>'s reforms and restoration urban plans.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LbEoKvmDrn0/UHMn5FQ8LzI/AAAAAAAACjI/d5gvHovFx4w/s1600/IMG_2028.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LbEoKvmDrn0/UHMn5FQ8LzI/AAAAAAAACjI/d5gvHovFx4w/s320/IMG_2028.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">View from the <i>Bund </i>from the<br />
pedestrian path next to the river</td></tr>
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Nowadays the area has not just financial institutions headquartered there but also hotels and luxury clubs, being at the same time one of <i>Shanghai</i>'s postcards. Another interesting view is to watch the <i>Bund </i>from <i>Pudong</i>, in the East bank of the river. However, as the buildings are small the view is as not as impressive.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XaAe8EvMzcs/UHMs7uRqvkI/AAAAAAAACjg/Au6ywFq8QVw/s1600/IMG_2133.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XaAe8EvMzcs/UHMs7uRqvkI/AAAAAAAACjg/Au6ywFq8QVw/s320/IMG_2133.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><i>The Bund </i>seen from the East bank of the river, <i>Pudong</i></td></tr>
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<b><i>Pudong</i></b></div>
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<i>Pudong </i>is neighborhood which marks <i>Shanghai's </i>ascension taking back its place as one of the world's most important city, since it was developed from 1990 onwards. So, what you gonna see now, before 1990, wasn't anything but rural undeveloped areas. That's the moment to get impressed with the size and power of changes taking place in China. The world's 3rd tallest skyscraper was built were less than 20 years ago there were just farms.</div>
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<tr><td><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9Ib1J45eisE/UHMxfPondxI/AAAAAAAACkA/QedVY6v4a2o/s1600/IMG_2057.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9Ib1J45eisE/UHMxfPondxI/AAAAAAAACkA/QedVY6v4a2o/s320/IMG_2057.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">One of the best views of <i>Shanghai</i> -<br />
<i>Pudong</i>'s horizon seen from <i>The Bund</i></td></tr>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-McNmSUgdrNM/UHMvNIvZ9mI/AAAAAAAACjo/DmsCaZcQb4M/s1600/IMG_2104.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-McNmSUgdrNM/UHMvNIvZ9mI/AAAAAAAACjo/DmsCaZcQb4M/s200/IMG_2104.JPG" width="133" /></a><br />
Arriving in <i>Pudong </i>can be done by subway, by ferry/boat or by a "special subway". The most logical option for me was to take the subway which delivers you right in the heart of <i>Pudong </i>for just 2-3 RMB depending from where you're coming from. The boats could cost splurge amounts if you're willing to have an onboard dinner - I'd not expect that from a low cost traveler. And, the "special subway" for 40 RMB doesn't make any sense if you can just take the regular one.<br />
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As you get there you gonna notice many avenues and flyovers - yeah, the <i>Lonely Planet </i>was right when they mentioned that the area was not "pedestrian friendly". Not because of danger but because it makes you a little bit confused about where and how to go. It's possible to visit many skyscrapers there, including the <i>Oriental Pearl Tower </i>(tower w/ the balls), a traditional element of <i>Pudong</i>'s skyline. Other options could be <i>Jin Mao Building </i>and the gigantic <i>Shanghai World Financial Center</i>, 3rd tallest skyscraper in the world, 494 m tall and the tallest of China, however planned to be surpassed by <i>Shanghai Tower </i>which will be finished by 2014 and will reach 565.5 m.<br />
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I didn't go upstairs at any of those buildings because: <i>Shanghai World Financial Center </i>was closed for visits and, even though it would cost me 300 RMB to get its final observation deck, it was something I would pay for. As a consolation prize I had dinner at the world's 3rd tallest building - at the Subway restaurant, in the S1 level for just 15 RMB, hehe. Other towers, in my opinion, were too expensive for what they'd offer. I got happy enough with the ground's views.</div>
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<tr><td><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--qCmTq684kg/UHMwSpSDQlI/AAAAAAAACjw/gruAz6HP3KU/s1600/IMG_2106.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--qCmTq684kg/UHMwSpSDQlI/AAAAAAAACjw/gruAz6HP3KU/s320/IMG_2106.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><i>Shanghai World Financial Center </i>in the back<br />
and <i>Jin Mao Tower </i>at the front</td></tr>
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If you want to watch views of <i>The Bund </i>from <i>Pudong </i>you need some extra courage. There are no indications showing you how to get to <i>Pudong's </i>river bank. Go in the back of the <i>Oriental Pearl Tower</i>, and always go to the river's direction. You'll find some sort of parking lot and, after, there'll be a public pier where you'll find the views you're looking for.<br />
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<b><i>Zhujiajao Water Town</i></b><br />
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There's a little 60.000 people water town just 40 minutes away of <i>Shanghai</i> and with more than 1,700 years of history. Basically it was trade based village connected to rivers by small cannals. To get there you'll need to get a bus for 12 RMB at <i>People's Square </i>in <i>Shanghai</i>. You'll reach the square by a subway station with the same name, and then walk until the bus terminal. The bus is painted in pink and there's no number or name identification so it's recommended to take a paper with the final destionation written down in Chinese.<br />
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When you reach <i>Zhujiajao's </i>bus terminal there aren't direct indications how to get to the historical area. Hawkers will try to sell you maps but don't buy it because when you purchase the entrance ticket to some old buildings there's a map included anyway - 30 RMB.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC84W1LrW1TpbkIrp9yToA5NeUEKLiwhvNan1ikSfGa3v70nrgjZAoCgJK8xZUku7jMUgnBsZ-pC95xoMEhPiQt99NRxck7wO4R2Qnt2aJ11ryOwdV7o0n5ca230_ba2g_Wq5a08f3dawr/s1600/IMG_2141.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC84W1LrW1TpbkIrp9yToA5NeUEKLiwhvNan1ikSfGa3v70nrgjZAoCgJK8xZUku7jMUgnBsZ-pC95xoMEhPiQt99NRxck7wO4R2Qnt2aJ11ryOwdV7o0n5ca230_ba2g_Wq5a08f3dawr/s320/IMG_2141.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Picture of <i>Zhujiajao</i> in the river bank</td></tr>
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Like any trip, the people around you can impact a lot the quality of your tour. In general, in all my trips in Asia, I have never had a problem with that. But, in that day, I grouped myself with a couple of German mathematicians and the result was not as expected. I was a low cost traveler, they were people looking for average-high end experiences. I believe that the final result was that I haven't spent as little as I wanted and they didn't have the expected extravagances. So, here goes some advice, always try to travel with people who have the same interests and are looking for the same thing you are, otherwise conflicts are inevitable.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cd6WmVQ26P4/UHM66efRZkI/AAAAAAAAClE/DbMY34JKHrc/s1600/IMG_2151.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cd6WmVQ26P4/UHM66efRZkI/AAAAAAAAClE/DbMY34JKHrc/s320/IMG_2151.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Picture of the main temple of <i>Zhujiajao</i></td></tr>
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The city's best attraction were the cannals and the possibility to rent a boat - 60 RMB - and make a tour around. Unfortunatelly the internal area of the buildings gives no great experience when compared with what you can find in <i>Shanghai </i>or <i>Suzhou</i>.</div>
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<b><i>Scams in Shanghai</i></b></div>
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Do you remember when I told you about scams aimed at tourists in <i>Beijing? </i>Well, in <i>Shanghai </i>I found it even worse and better planned. It could be at the <i>People's Square</i>, or <i>East Nanjing Street</i>, or at <i>The Bund</i>, areas of lots of people, be aware, especially if you're alone, that you're surelly being watched. People will come out of nowhere asking who you are, where you gonna go and what have you done so far in China. Or, they gonna ask you to take a picture of a couple or a group of friends and then start the same script followed conversation. As I said other times, Chinese, in general, are shy, and if they want to interact with you they gonna do it in a shy and careful manner. A too expansive behavior - including invitations to drink something in another place - should be taken very carefully and considered as out of common atitude in Chinese culture.</div>
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<i style="font-weight: bold;">Next post </i>will be about <a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/10/adventure-in-yellow-moutain-huangshan.html"><i>Huangshan</i>, or the <i>Yellow Mountain</i></a>, back into China's countryside again, and a crazy sequence of bad slept nights in train hard seats! </div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02152018193849879223noreply@blogger.com0Xangai, China31.230393 121.47370430.3614965 120.21027649999999 32.0992895 122.7371315tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4089077439641967020.post-7198912707558499872012-10-09T20:08:00.001+07:002012-10-17T00:01:53.337+07:00A Big Apple da China: Shanghai<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b>Post anterior: </b><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/10/suzhou-e-seus-jardins.html">Suzhou e seus jardins</a><br />
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<a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/10/chinas-big-apple-shanghai.html"><b>English Version</b></a></div>
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<b>Intro</b><br />
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Finalmente cheguei à maior e mais desenvolvida cidade da China, figurando também entre as cidades mais influentes do mundo. <i>Shanghai</i> - em português escrevemos <i>Xangai</i> - era uma cidade secundária, menos importante do que as vizinhas <i>Nanjing, Hangzhou </i>e <i>Suzhou </i>até a Guerra do Ópio. A partir daí, a cidade estrategicamente localizada próxima ao mar e a grandes rios que vêm do interior da China foi obrigatoriamente aberta ao comércio.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRRdhNh8_px45agmMhRvBzejwG0rDLrfWB5pevA0GWPHnBdr7wu" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRRdhNh8_px45agmMhRvBzejwG0rDLrfWB5pevA0GWPHnBdr7wu" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Localização de <i>Shanghai </i>na China</td></tr>
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Em 1842, oito países ocidentais - Alemanha, França, Itália, Rússia, Império Austro-Húngaro, Estados Unidos e Grã-Bretanha - e o Japão receberam concessões territoriais na cidade que funcionavam como áreas internacionais. Embora a maioria da população ainda fosse chinesa, nesses locais as leis chinesas não eram válidas. A partir daí houve uma explosão no crescimento econômico, social e cultural se tornando nas décadas de 20 e 30, a cidade mais desenvolvida do Leste Asiático. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://wikitravel.org/upload/shared//thumb/2/23/Shanghai1907.jpg/350px-Shanghai1907.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://wikitravel.org/upload/shared//thumb/2/23/Shanghai1907.jpg/350px-Shanghai1907.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mapa de <i>Shanghai </i>em 1907</td></tr>
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A cidade começou a perder prestígio em 1937, após ter sido conquistada pelos japoneses. E, mesmo após ser retornada à China sem as concessões territoriais anteriores os níveis de comércio se mantiveram reduzidos. Em seguida, após a Revolução Cultural, boa parte dos negócios e influência cultural fugiram para <i>Taiwan</i> e <i>Hong Kong</i> dando início a décadas de sombra e esquecimento junto com o obscurantismo comunista que veio a tomar conta da China.</div>
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Em 1990 <i>Shanghai </i>começou a renascer das cinzas através de um programa governamental de recuperação urbana que pretendia - e conseguiu - transformar a área de <i>Pudong </i>em um centro de serviços financeiros e sede de empresas de grande porte. Atualmente por exemplo, está localizado lá o 3o maior prédio do mundo, <i>Shanghai World Financial Center</i>. A cidade ainda tem uma ostensiva rede de transporte público, algumas grandes áreas verdes, e muitos prédios em estilo europeu remanescentes das concessões territoriais. Tudo isso com uma população de mais de 23 milhões de pessoas e o sonho de riqueza para ricos - profissionais qualificados, universitários, etc. - e pobres - migrantes das zonas rurais em busca de trabalho.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.chinatouristmaps.com/assets/images/travelmapst/detailed-shanghai-map.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="233" src="http://www.chinatouristmaps.com/assets/images/travelmapst/detailed-shanghai-map.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mapa atual de <i>Shanghai</i></td></tr>
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<b>Chegando em <i>Shanghai</i></b></div>
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Como planejado saí de <i>Suzhou </i>cedo, em torno de 7h da manhã, e peguei um trem-bala com destino a <i>Shanghai</i>. A viagem não levou nem 30 minutos e eu já estava na estação central da cidade. Logo comprei um mapa e me localizei pra achar meu caminho até o hostel, na área central. Fiquei hospedado no <i>Mingtown Nanjing Road </i><i>Youth </i><i> </i>Hostel, que foi excelente ao custo de cerca de 50-60 RMB/noite no dormitório.</div>
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Localização é tudo em <i>Shanghai</i>, e embora provavelmente hajam hostels distribuídos pela cidade inteira vale a pena pagar um pouco a mais para estar próximo da área central. Há um ótimo sistema de metrô porém não leva exatamente a todos os lugares. Lembre-se, se tudo já era grande e longe na China inteira, imagine na maior cidade da China.</div>
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Ajeitei minhas coisas e fui atrás de um escritório de venda de passagens de trem - costumam existir nas cidades maiores pontos de venda de passagens fora das estações. Dessa vez eu precisava de um combo <i>Shanghai -> Huangshan -> Fuzhou -> Xiamen</i>. Ou seja, minhas últimas 4 passagens de trem a serem compradas na China. A cidade de <i>Fuzhou</i> não era uma parada turística, apenas técnica, pra trocar de trens e seguir viagem pra <i>Xiamen</i>. Alguns podem estar perguntando o porquê de estar fazendo isso nos primeiros instantes que cheguei em <i>Shanghai</i>. A resposta é que passagens de trem devem ser compradas com o máximo antecedência sob pena de ficar em pé - isto é, sem assento - ou, ficar preso e perder seu itinerário.</div>
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<b>Comprando as passagens</b></div>
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Como eu já estava ficando craque no processo, pedi pra que uma funcionária do hostel escrevesse todas as minhas necessidades de passagem em chinês em um papelzinho. Assim, quando cheguei no escritório apenas apresentei o papel. Ainda assim houveram algumas dúvidas - aparentemente a vendedora achava absurdo o fato de algumas chegadas/saídas estarem tão encavaladas, mas, era esse mesmo o plano. O que não estava no plano é que nos desentendemos - e só fui descobrir isso mais tarde - ao invés dela gerar as passagens como assentos do tipo <i>sleeper </i>- ou seja, um assento leito pra eu dormir - ela gerou todos como <i>hard seat</i> - ou seja, sentado em poltronas de 90o espremidos com muitos chineses. E daí fiquei me sentindo feliz pelos próximos dias sem saber o que me aguardava quando fosse pegar o trem para <i>Huangshan</i>.</div>
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<b>Hora de conhecer <i>Shanghai!</i></b></div>
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Um mapa na mão, mochila e guarda-chuva nas costas, hora de pisar na rua e conhecer essa gigante!</div>
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<b><i>Yuyuan Gardens</i></b></div>
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A história dos jardins <i>Yuyuan </i>remonta a 1559, durante a dinastia <i>Ming</i>, quando <i>Pan Yundan </i>resolveu montar um suntuoso jardim - veio a ser o maior e mais prestigioso de <i>Shanghai</i> à sua época - para seu pai <i>Pan En</i>. </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: justify;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tB50Nc_2NKI/UHMKpdpsffI/AAAAAAAACfY/gf9ZHfcqItg/s1600/IMG_1960.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tB50Nc_2NKI/UHMKpdpsffI/AAAAAAAACfY/gf9ZHfcqItg/s320/IMG_1960.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Interior do <i>Yuyuan Gardens</i></td></tr>
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<span style="text-align: justify;">No entanto, a despesa com a construção do jardim foi tamanha que acabou contribuindo para a falência da família. Desde então o jardim esteve nas mãos de outros donos, foi tomado pelos britânicos durante a Guerra do Ópio e também pela invasão japonesa na 2a GM, finalmente sendo reaberto ao público em 1961. A entrada custa cerca de 40 RMB.</span><br />
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<b><i>Entorno do Yuyuan Gardens</i></b><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-z7DYseM17g8/UHMNjrA4leI/AAAAAAAACfo/KpG3njkuJkc/s1600/IMG_1982.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-z7DYseM17g8/UHMNjrA4leI/AAAAAAAACfo/KpG3njkuJkc/s200/IMG_1982.JPG" width="133" /></a>Talvez até mais interessante do que os jardins seja o bairro do entorno. Uma área comercial enorme cheia de prédios construídos em estilo arquitetônico chinês restaurados e abrigando dezenas de lojas que oferecem desde <i>souvenirs </i>até refeições. Uma boa hora para comprar presentinhos e exercitar sua capacidade de barganhar. Esteja pronto para pedir de 5-6x menos que o preço oferecido pelos comerciantes, e tentar fechar nesse valor. A tática de sair andando funciona!</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-t9qCGGKH92s/UHMMrCXehgI/AAAAAAAACfg/VLgDAZf1IU0/s1600/IMG_1956.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-t9qCGGKH92s/UHMMrCXehgI/AAAAAAAACfg/VLgDAZf1IU0/s320/IMG_1956.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vista das imediações do <i>Yuyuan Gardens</i></td></tr>
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<b><i>City God's Temple</i></b></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JaowfpL3MwM/UHMPlOcaryI/AAAAAAAACfw/hN5o4faIwSk/s1600/IMG_1985.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JaowfpL3MwM/UHMPlOcaryI/AAAAAAAACfw/hN5o4faIwSk/s200/IMG_1985.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Foto da fachada do templo</td></tr>
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É um pequeno templo muito próximo também aos jardins e custa cerca de 10 RMB para visitá-lo. Não é uma visita tão relevante para aqueles que não são budistas. Talvez o maior atrativo seja a fachada do templo, bastante adornada, que no entanto pode ser vista de graça do lado de fora.</div>
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<b><i>Ainda há China dentro de Shanghai</i></b></div>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YN0HF1AoZX4/UHMR3g0DW2I/AAAAAAAACf4/dl9xg0CyBJE/s1600/IMG_1991.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YN0HF1AoZX4/UHMR3g0DW2I/AAAAAAAACf4/dl9xg0CyBJE/s200/IMG_1991.JPG" width="133" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Foto de uma pequena <br />
rua em <i> Shanghai</i></td></tr>
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Se você falar com pessoas que foram para <i>Shanghai </i>ou até mesmo os guias como o <i>Lonely Planet </i>há uma grande tendência em rotular a cidade como algo que não representa a China, um <i>Frankenstein </i>moderno resultado da combinação de anos de influência oriental e ocidental voltadas ao enriquecimento e ao comércio. Verdade é que uma boa parte de <i>Shanghai </i>realmente não parece com as outras "Chinas" que encontrei em <i>Beijing</i>, <i>Datong</i>, <i>Pingyao</i> ou <i>Xi'An</i>. Porém, essas cidades também não se pareciam com <i>Nanjing </i>e <i>Suzhou</i>. Como já havia discutido em outro post, de maneira geral, as cidades que estão próximas à costa leste da China tendem a ser muito mais modernas do que as demais, o que é natural pois estão há mais anos no processo de liberalização econômica. Isso não quer dizer que a China antiga ainda não exista nessas cidades. É necessário apenas andar, se perder, e... sem querer...<span style="text-align: left;"> </span></div>
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Pois é, tinha acabado de achar uma raridade em <i>Shanghai - </i>o caos, a bagunça, os fios, galinhas, cachorros, vendedores, típicos da Ásia. Por instantes achei que tinha voltado pro Camboja - o <i>Eric</i>, um dos meus amigos chineses, uma vez disse que quando ele nasceu no final da década de 80, a sua cidade <i>Guangzhou</i> lembrava muito o que ele tinha visto no Camboja. Ou seja, a China antiga <i>está lá</i>, só não podemos ficar restritos apenas ao que os guias estão falando sobre o que é legal ou não em um lugar. Uma simples caminhada pode revelar impressões muito mais interessantes.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: justify;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQsEfjLiTeGkhJ-O7TJsFEx_F72TALiCqgUv32EOZiMoH156iXHh9LxhZznRnS5GvSzTjwfDTQ3Rujw97FYnksrxeAh6bWUwZh2sqfeV6IMf5oNY8YTWq3J7z7bQoh2wm1gP_9_JoiMHit/s1600/IMG_1996.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQsEfjLiTeGkhJ-O7TJsFEx_F72TALiCqgUv32EOZiMoH156iXHh9LxhZznRnS5GvSzTjwfDTQ3Rujw97FYnksrxeAh6bWUwZh2sqfeV6IMf5oNY8YTWq3J7z7bQoh2wm1gP_9_JoiMHit/s320/IMG_1996.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pessoas caminhando em uma pequena rua de <i>Shanghai</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Já que estava no bairro, decidi explorá-lo a pé e logo vi que as pessoas não estavam acostumadas com estrangeiros por ali. Um emaranhado de pequenas ruas cheias de casas amontoadas circundado por grandes avenidas e obras de prédios em construção - o próprio reflexo da China dos tempos atuais. Comprei um sorvete - por sinal, os sorvetes da China merecem seu capítulo à parte de tão bons e variados que são mesmo considerando o fato de eu eventualmente ter comido sorvete de feijão, sim - e fui caminhando e observando as pessoas andando de um lado pro outro, carregando tudo e me lembrando alguns meses atrás. Resolvi então testar o custo da área e procurei um barbeiro. Achei, pedi pra ele raspar minha cabeça e achei que tínhamos nos entendido no preço - 5 RMB. Ao término fui entregar a nota e ele fez que queria 50 RMB. Óbvio que ele queria me sacanear, mas como 5 era muito barato mesmo - menos até do que o Camboja - paguei 10 RMB e deixei ele reclamando sozinho.</div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b><i>É impossível ver chineses aproveitando a vida em Shanghai?</i></b></div>
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<b><i><br /></i></b></div>
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Curiosamente pareceu que minha viagem por <i>Shanghai</i> havia ganhado a missão de provar algumas inconsistências no senso comum sobre a cidade. Ao que tinha lido pelo <i>Lonely Planet</i>, diferentemente de outras cidades chinesas seria muito mais difícil encontrar pessoas tendo momentos de lazer ou fazendo coisas comuns porque <i>Shanghai</i> seria o caos dos homens de terno, dos táxis e arranha-céus. Bom, não demorou muito pra isso cair por terra. Primeiro com o pequeno bairro que encontrei e segundo, com um parque nas imediações do <i>French Quarter</i>.</div>
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<b><i>Fuxing Park</i></b></div>
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<b><i><br /></i></b></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uz9iBA0jyQk/UHMY40Cy4WI/AAAAAAAACg4/0P8OviizLpo/s1600/IMG_2082.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uz9iBA0jyQk/UHMY40Cy4WI/AAAAAAAACg4/0P8OviizLpo/s200/IMG_2082.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Foto do <i>Fuxing Park</i> - <br />
arquitetura francesa</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
O <i>Fuxing Park </i>foi construído no meio da concessão francesa e portanto foi feito em estilo arquitetônico francês. Minha expectativa era de encontrar um parque vazio mas, pelo contrário, descobri que os idosos chineses fazem uso muito ativo do seu tempo livre.</div>
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Não tão diferente das nossas <i>serestas </i>aqui no Brasil - pelo menos pra quem nasceu e morou boa parte da vida no interior - havia muitos chineses dançando, se exercitando, ou apenas aproveitando o dia em uma plena quinta-feira.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ATDlwleJH8A/UHMZfSg7wxI/AAAAAAAAChA/NwRbG2IDtg4/s1600/IMG_2085.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ATDlwleJH8A/UHMZfSg7wxI/AAAAAAAAChA/NwRbG2IDtg4/s320/IMG_2085.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chineses dançando</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KRMQzKbfcxA/UHMbh3BnwTI/AAAAAAAAChI/aUooI8Wj3Jk/s1600/IMG_2089.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KRMQzKbfcxA/UHMbh3BnwTI/AAAAAAAAChI/aUooI8Wj3Jk/s320/IMG_2089.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chineses sentados no parque</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tvxU3V4x4Bg/UHMcQ_-_cdI/AAAAAAAAChQ/27ZpIULKxTg/s1600/IMG_2091.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tvxU3V4x4Bg/UHMcQ_-_cdI/AAAAAAAAChQ/27ZpIULKxTg/s200/IMG_2091.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Criança e avô brincando</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
Há um certo reflexo da sociedade chinesa. A política do filho único vem reduzindo o tamanho das famílias chinesas geração a geração. Naturalmente, agora avós aposentados porém ainda razoavelmente jovens (~60 anos) podem ajudar seus filhos a cuidarem de seus netos. Por exemplo, ao invés de contratarem babás, é muito comum que os avós se dediquem a passar o tempo livre com os netos. Havia muitos idosos com bebês ou crianças pequenas no parque. </div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<b><i>French Concession</i></b></div>
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<b><i><br /></i></b></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-c_A-cJiAAqY/UHMiYHLgTiI/AAAAAAAACiQ/mibnj2Oq1g8/s1600/IMG_2068.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-c_A-cJiAAqY/UHMiYHLgTiI/AAAAAAAACiQ/mibnj2Oq1g8/s200/IMG_2068.JPG" width="133" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rua parte da<br />
<i>French Concession</i></td></tr>
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Também conhecida por <i>La Concéssion Française de Shanghai</i>, essa parte de <i>Shanghai </i>jamais será encontrada se procurada assim. Essa região foi inicialmente cedida em 1849 à França, porém foi expandida duas vezes em 1900 e 1914 e logo virou não apenas uma colônia francesa mas o destino de muitos imigrantes de várias nacionalidades ocidentais. No entanto, anos de cultura européia deixaram seu legado com essa região sendo distintamente marcada por prédios em arquitetura européia, muitas árvores, e até igrejas.</div>
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Para encontrar a antiga <i>French Concession</i> é necessário ir nos distritos de <i>Luwan </i>ou <i>Xuhui</i>, acessíveis de metrô.<i> </i>A região se estende desde o centro até o sul e oeste de <i>Shanghai </i>e pode ser facilmente visitada a pé. Infelizmente como não se trata de um verdadeiro museu ou toda uma região tombada, há "traços" de arquitetura antiga e histórica combinados com eventuais construções modernas e outras coisas. Porém, o passeio é válido e muito bonito.Vale dizer também que uma boa parte dos antigos prédios estão sendo transformados em lojas de luxo e de griffe.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJAVO_e0PuqxHtHCHU6qpyP-B9tY5_O5Bu5PHIyefD9BT8dNVSMruE1X4f_-qLIbnY_uzjIgBQa7riodB1O5WslizMg1D-mU9jRrKFnhT9fYgtWipmRAuuH8RMQjdgQivPTfRBgxwt5ioS/s1600/IMG_2066.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJAVO_e0PuqxHtHCHU6qpyP-B9tY5_O5Bu5PHIyefD9BT8dNVSMruE1X4f_-qLIbnY_uzjIgBQa7riodB1O5WslizMg1D-mU9jRrKFnhT9fYgtWipmRAuuH8RMQjdgQivPTfRBgxwt5ioS/s320/IMG_2066.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Árvores e trânsito na <i>French Concession</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Na hora de almoçar fiquei tentando achar um lugar barato na região - tarefa difícil. Acababei encontrando uma pequena portinha onde almoçavam muitos operários das construções na região. Através de uma comunicação inteiramente baseada em <i>apontar o dedo</i>, me fiz entender e gastei apenas 10 RMB por uma ótima refeição.</div>
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<b>Shanghai à noite</b></div>
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Se <i>Shanghai </i>já é uma cidade interessante de dia, de noite é algo simplesmente incrível. Em outras palavras, <i>Shanghai é uma cidade para ser contemplada à noite</i>. Todas as cores, prédios, tons, se misturam e isso dá o charme da cidade. Não por acaso, há algum tempo atrás, era chamada <i>Paris do Leste</i>. </div>
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<b><i>The Bund</i></b></div>
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<b><i><br /></i></b></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ga3ERHJ0uAc/UHMosZ5QtBI/AAAAAAAACjQ/XMwVNzQApFY/s1600/IMG_2032.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ga3ERHJ0uAc/UHMosZ5QtBI/AAAAAAAACjQ/XMwVNzQApFY/s320/IMG_2032.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Prédio em estilo europeu no <i>Bund</i></td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZwVyEs_3Y49Fw03PUSZLx6m7r8Rke6_zVglYzSG3xR2ubcL_u7sYhidMt7zV1SJu-9E-eypJx54D6AFnEKjTpa-LLzRBlXVdt190d0rSSQMS4y7zWH1aWdqVyKzZPx4oML7_R5Mgga04K/s1600/IMG_2041.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZwVyEs_3Y49Fw03PUSZLx6m7r8Rke6_zVglYzSG3xR2ubcL_u7sYhidMt7zV1SJu-9E-eypJx54D6AFnEKjTpa-LLzRBlXVdt190d0rSSQMS4y7zWH1aWdqVyKzZPx4oML7_R5Mgga04K/s200/IMG_2041.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trânsito na região do <i>Bund</i></td></tr>
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O <i>Bund </i>é o nome dado para a região de frente para o rio no centro de <i>Shanghai</i>. <i>Bund </i>era uma palavra com várias possíveis origens utilizada para designar margens de rios. A região do <i>Bund</i> passou a ser desenvolvida para abrigar bancos, casas de comércio e consulados das antigas concessões européias. Posteriormente na década de 40 abrigaram as instituições financeiras chinesas até que a Revolução Cultural buscou remover tal uso e toda forma de estrangeirismo que era caracterizada a região. O <i>Bund </i>voltou a se desenvolver fortemente apenas entre as décadas de 70 e 80, com as reformas liberalizantes de <i>Deng Xiaoping</i> e planos urbanísticos de recuperação.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LbEoKvmDrn0/UHMn5FQ8LzI/AAAAAAAACjI/d5gvHovFx4w/s1600/IMG_2028.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LbEoKvmDrn0/UHMn5FQ8LzI/AAAAAAAACjI/d5gvHovFx4w/s320/IMG_2028.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vista do <i>Bund </i>a partir da passarela <br />
para pedestres próxima ao rio</td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
Atualmente a região abriga tanto instituições financeiras tradicionais quanto hotéis e clubes de luxo sendo com certeza um dos cartões-postais de <i>Shanghai</i>. Uma outra vista interessante é olhar o <i>Bund</i> a partir de <i>Pudong</i>, do outro lado do rio, no entanto, como os prédios são pequenos a vista perde um pouco de imponência comparada com os prédios maiores que estão atrás.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XaAe8EvMzcs/UHMs7uRqvkI/AAAAAAAACjg/Au6ywFq8QVw/s1600/IMG_2133.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XaAe8EvMzcs/UHMs7uRqvkI/AAAAAAAACjg/Au6ywFq8QVw/s320/IMG_2133.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The Bund </i>visto a partir do ouro lado do rio, <i>Pudong</i></td></tr>
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<b><i>Pudong</i></b></div>
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<i>Pudong </i>é o bairro que marca a ascensão de <i>Shanghai</i>, retomando seu posto como uma das cidades mais importantes do mundo, e da própria China, uma vez que a área foi desenvolvida a partir de 1990. Ou seja, o que você vai ver agora, antes de 1990, eram localidades rurais. Aí sim, um momento pra se assustar com o tamanho e a força das mudanças que estão ocorrendo na China. O 3o prédio mais alto do mundo foi construído onde, há menos de 20 anos atrás havia apenas fazendas.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9Ib1J45eisE/UHMxfPondxI/AAAAAAAACkA/QedVY6v4a2o/s1600/IMG_2057.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9Ib1J45eisE/UHMxfPondxI/AAAAAAAACkA/QedVY6v4a2o/s320/IMG_2057.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Uma das vistas consagradas de <i>Shanghai</i> - <br />
o horizonte em <i>Pudong </i>visto a partir do <i>The Bund</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-McNmSUgdrNM/UHMvNIvZ9mI/AAAAAAAACjo/DmsCaZcQb4M/s1600/IMG_2104.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-McNmSUgdrNM/UHMvNIvZ9mI/AAAAAAAACjo/DmsCaZcQb4M/s200/IMG_2104.JPG" width="133" /></a>Chegar em <i>Pudong </i>pode ser feito de metrô, balsa/barco ou por um "metrô especial". A solução mais lógica a meu ver é pegar o metrô, que te entrega no coração de <i>Pudong </i>por cerca de 2-3 RMB dependendo de onde você estiver vindo. Os barcos podem custar verdadeiras fábulas se o propósito é ter um jantar a bordo - não é o que se espera de um viajante <i>low cost</i>. E, por último, um "metrô especial" por 40 RMB que não faz sentido nenhum dada a disponibilidade do metrô tradicional. </div>
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Logo que você atravessar para lá vai sair num emaranhado de avenidas e passarelas - sim, o <i>Lonely Planet </i>acerta ao falar que a região não é <i>"pedestrian friendly"</i>. Mas isso não porque seja perigoso mas pelo fato de ser razoavelmente confuso ir de um quarteirão para o outro. É possível visitar vários dos arranhas-céus que estão lá, entre eles o <i>Oriental Pearl Tower </i>(torre c/ as bolas), e figura tradicional do horizonte de <i>Pudong</i>. Outras opções ainda incluem <i>Jin Mao Building </i>e o imponente <i>Shanghai World Financial Center</i>, 3o maior prédio do mundo com 494 m e o maior de toda a China porém tal posto será substituído no futuro pelo <i>Shanghai Tower </i>que deverá atingir 565.5 m em 2014 quando pronto. </div>
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Não visitei nenhum dos prédios por alguns fatores: o <i>Shanghai World Financial Center</i> estava fechado para visitas quando eu fui, e embora custasse quase 300 RMB para subir no seu último deck de visitação, era algo que eu estava disposto a pagar. Como prêmio de consolação posso dizer que jantei no 3o maior prédio do mundo - no <i>Subway</i>, no subsolo por cerca de 15 RMB, hehe. As outras torres, a meu ver, eram muito caras por não serem as maiores e acabei deixando quieto. Fiquei feliz com as paisagens vistas do chão mesmo e pela falta de fotos de cima na internet, julgo que talvez não sejam tão impressionantes assim.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--qCmTq684kg/UHMwSpSDQlI/AAAAAAAACjw/gruAz6HP3KU/s1600/IMG_2106.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--qCmTq684kg/UHMwSpSDQlI/AAAAAAAACjw/gruAz6HP3KU/s320/IMG_2106.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Shanghai World Financial Center </i>ao fundo<br />
e <i>Jin Mao Tower </i>à frente</td></tr>
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Se você quiser observar o <i>The Bund</i> a partir de <i>Pudong </i>é necessário um pouco de ousadia. Não há nenhuma indicação em nenhum lugar de que isso é possível. Siga atrás do <i>Oriental Pearl Tower</i>, e vá sempre no sentido para o rio. Você entrará numa espécie de estacionamento e, após ele, haverá um pier público em que é possível avistar o outro lado de <i>Shanghai</i>.<br />
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<b><i>Zhujiajao Water Town</i></b><br />
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Há uma pequena cidade "aquática" histórica de cerca de 60 mil habitantes (minúscula para o padrão chinês) a cerca de 40 minutos de <i>Shanghai </i>e com mais de 1.700 anos de história. Basicamente era uma vila que vivia do comércio através de canais construídos conectando-a aos rios principais. Para chegar lá é necessário pegar um ônibus por cerca de 12 RMB na <i>People's Square </i>de <i>Shanghai</i>. É necessário chegar pelo metrô de mesmo nome e andar até uma área de terminal de ônibus. O ônibus é na cor rosa e não há numero ou outra identificação por isso é muito válido levar o nome da cidade escrito em chinês em um papel para não haver erro.<br />
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Ao chegar ao terminal de ônibus da cidade não há indicações diretas de como chegar até a área histórica. Ambulantes tentarão te vender mapas da cidade mas não compre pois quando você adquire o acesso a alguns prédios históricos já estará incluindo um mapa - 30 RMB.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC84W1LrW1TpbkIrp9yToA5NeUEKLiwhvNan1ikSfGa3v70nrgjZAoCgJK8xZUku7jMUgnBsZ-pC95xoMEhPiQt99NRxck7wO4R2Qnt2aJ11ryOwdV7o0n5ca230_ba2g_Wq5a08f3dawr/s1600/IMG_2141.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC84W1LrW1TpbkIrp9yToA5NeUEKLiwhvNan1ikSfGa3v70nrgjZAoCgJK8xZUku7jMUgnBsZ-pC95xoMEhPiQt99NRxck7wO4R2Qnt2aJ11ryOwdV7o0n5ca230_ba2g_Wq5a08f3dawr/s320/IMG_2141.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Foto de <i>Zhujiajao</i> às margens do rio</td></tr>
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Como em qualquer viagem, a interação das pessoas que estão à sua volta dita um pouco do quanto você vai desfrutar do passeio ou não. Em geral, em todas as minhas viagens pela Ásia, não tive nenhum problema com isso. Porém, nesse dia, acabei me agrupando com um casal de matemáticos alemães e o resultado não foi como o esperado. Eu era um viajante <i>low cost</i>, eles eram pessoas querendo uma experiência de médio-alto nível. Acredito que o resultado final foi que eu não gastei o pouco que eu queria e eles não tiveram as extravagâncias planejadas. Ou seja, vale o conselho de sempre buscar viajar com pessoas que têm interesses comuns e estão buscando coisas parecidas, do contrário os choques serão inevitáveis.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cd6WmVQ26P4/UHM66efRZkI/AAAAAAAAClE/DbMY34JKHrc/s1600/IMG_2151.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cd6WmVQ26P4/UHM66efRZkI/AAAAAAAAClE/DbMY34JKHrc/s320/IMG_2151.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Foto do principal templo em <i>Zhujiajao</i></td></tr>
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O maior atrativo da cidade são os canais e a possibilidade de pegar um barco - 60 RMB - e fazer um passeio por eles. Infelizmente os prédios internamente não têm grandes atrativos quando comparados ao que você pode encontrar em <i>Shanghai</i> ou <i>Suzhou</i>.</div>
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<b><i>Malandragens em Shanghai</i></b></div>
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Você lembra quando falei em <i>Beijing </i>sobre as sacanagens feitas com turistas? Pois bem, em <i>Shanghai</i> eu me deparei com um número de abordagens ainda maior. Porém, dessa vez foram melhor planejadas. Seja na <i>People's Square</i>, na <i>East Nanjing Street</i>, ou no <i>The Bund</i>, em geral áreas cheias de pessoas, fique atento, principalmente se estiver sozinho porque você com certeza estará sendo observado. Pessoas surgirão do nada perguntando quem é você, para onde vai e o que já visitou na China. Ou ainda pedirão para você tirar uma foto de um casal ou um grupo de amigos(as) e depois a mesma conversinha na seqüência. Como eu disse uma outra vez, chineses, em geral, são tímidos, e se forem abordá-lo o farão de forma tímida e contida. Um comportamento muito expansivo - incluindo convites para ir beber alguma coisa em outro lugar - devem ser vistos com muita cautela e considerados que já estão fora do que é esperado como atitude na cultura chinesa.</div>
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<i style="font-weight: bold;">Próximo post </i>será sobre <a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/10/aventuras-na-montanha-amarela-huangshan.html"><i>Huangshan</i>, ou a <i>Montanha Amarela</i></a>, de volta ao interior da China de novo, e uma seqüência insana de noites mal dormidas em bancos de trens e dias subindo e descendo montanhas! </div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02152018193849879223noreply@blogger.com0Xangai, China31.230393 121.47370430.3614965 120.21027649999999 32.0992895 122.7371315tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4089077439641967020.post-27158199031571594152012-10-06T01:04:00.001+07:002012-10-06T01:04:24.363+07:00Suzhou and its gardens<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b>Post anterior: </b><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/09/the-southern-capital-nanjing.html">The Southern Capital: <i>Nanjing</i></a></div>
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<b><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/10/suzhou-e-seus-jardins.html">Versão em Português</a></b></div>
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<b>Intro</b><br />
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Even if this post pictures may show the opposite, <i>Suzhou </i>is a big and important city next to the <i>Yang-Tsé </i>river on its way to <i>Shanghai</i>. More than 4 million people in its urban area and 10 million in the metropolitan region, it's a city that, in the Chinese fashion way, mixes modernity, development and gigantic proportions with more than 2,500 years of history. It's often accounted as the <i>Chinese Venice </i>and since 1997 its famous gardens were listed as UNESCO Heritage places.</div>
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<tr><td><a href="http://www.china-tour.cn/images/Suzhou/Suzhou-City-Map.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://www.china-tour.cn/images/Suzhou/Suzhou-City-Map.jpg" width="310" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Map of <i>Suzhou</i></td></tr>
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<b>Arriving in <i>Suzhou</i></b></div>
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The way between <i>Nanjing </i>and <i>Suzhou</i> was my first time ever in a bullet train. While I waited in the super modern station (would it be an airport??) in <i>Nanjing </i>I was excited about the experience would be. A quarter of hour before the time shown in my ticket the train arrived. From there on the ratchets lights turned green so we could move on. The trains, white and big with a huge nose were extremely clean and modern - a very different experience compared to my other train travels in China before. However that could not disguise the <i>Chinese paradox</i>. At the same time the showcased technology was modern, and, yeah, most part of the passengers were wearing suits, a significant number of Chinese families were carrying their disproportionate luggage, food, packages, etc., all boxed up to fit inside. There I could see the shock between urban, super modern, midiatic China and, the other one, which is still rural and trie to catch up with so many changes.</div>
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100 km/h, 150 km/h, 200 km/h, 240 km/h and then the train didn't get any faster. Every 20-30 min we would get to a different station and the acceleration process would repeat again. Announcements, warnings and even the speed were available both in Chinese and English. At 240 km/h, which is not the fastest train in China, the scenery changed pretty fast. The curves were felt as bumps and there's some sensation like being in an airplane with seats and staff somehow similar. Not so long I reached <i>Suzhou</i>.</div>
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It was night already and my first task was getting to the hostel, which, by the way, was from <i>Mingtown</i> brand, which normally offers just basic services - in other words, the bed. I found the bus that would take me to the hostels vincinity - the turistic area of <i>Suzhou</i> - and before I had time to get lost I asked a young Chinese man who took the same bus I did about what stop I should leave. I was correct, he was probably a university student and he could speak English fair well. As I left the bus, I took some narrow and dark alleys and tried to ask two old ladies who obviously would not speak English at all. The alternative was to show them my iPad screen which stated the name, in Chinese, of the hostel. Some murmuring and face gestures and I understood that I should just go on. Finally, I found the hostel.</div>
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I did my check-in, paid it, left my stuff in the lock and left to find some food. At 10 pm, my hostel's street was getting empty and everything was closing down. There were lots of café - expensive - which sometimes could not offer anything as food. I walked for half an hour and ended giving up. I walked in the café next to my hostel, packed with young and modern Chinese, and had "dinner" as a frappuccino for 35 RMB.</div>
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<b>Exploring <i>Suzhou</i></b></div>
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I had just 2 nights and 1 day in <i>Suzhou</i>, so, everything I'd like to do should be done within this single day. With that in mind, differently from my dorm colleagues, I woke up at 6 am, and started my solo tour.<br />
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My first attempt was to buy my breakfast. A little bit hard, because tourists usually do not wake up so early and the whole turistic are was closed. However, as it's seemed to be common in China I found something that looked like a <i>dumpling</i> and bought 8 of it for just 10 RMB. I kept walking and eating at the same time. My idaea was to pay a visit to the "twin towers", two <i>Pagodas </i>next to each other but when I got close I realized the towers were closed for renovations, what a pity.<br />
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<b><i>Chineses The Chinese Gardens Art</i></b><br />
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Chinese gardens look to recreate natural landscapes. This art evolved during 3,000 years and it was very common among emperors who built huge and sumptuous gardens while small gardens were recreated by nobles, scholars, artists, etc. The classical composition of a Chinese garden includes walls, one or more ponds, stones, flowers and trees, a combination of halls, pavillions and zig-zag paths, in order to present carefully planned scenes to ther guests.<br />
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<b><i>The Garden of the Master of the Nets</i></b><br />
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The first garden I got into the entrance ticket was 30 RMB. It was originally built in 1140 and recreated in 1770 by the bureaucrat <i>Song Zongyuan</i>.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EG7nIbVes2g/UGySH1aPKiI/AAAAAAAACYE/5ZCuIUYaQlY/s1600/IMG_1836.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="188" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EG7nIbVes2g/UGySH1aPKiI/AAAAAAAACYE/5ZCuIUYaQlY/s320/IMG_1836.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Internal view of the garden</td></tr>
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The context of the classic gardens is somehow the same. A prosperous bureaucrat/businessman/etc decides to transform his own residence in a landscape piece of art, adding ponds, plants, stones, areas to represent peace, harmony, etc., common elements of the Chinese culture.</div>
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<tr><td><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cVmxeYoZN1A/UGySx7erjQI/AAAAAAAACYM/p9C-LKaez9A/s1600/IMG_1838.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cVmxeYoZN1A/UGySx7erjQI/AAAAAAAACYM/p9C-LKaez9A/s320/IMG_1838.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Details in windows and glass</td></tr>
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<i> <b>Panmen Gate</b></i><br />
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This place has its name given to a gate built thousands of years ago that served as entrance to <i>Suzhou</i>. However, I'd say that the attractiveness of the place is not given by the gate itself but by the gardens, ponds and constructions in the surrounding. In my opinion this was the greatest garden I visited in <i>Suzhou</i>.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ntt6pmDB9MY/UGyYcJx5inI/AAAAAAAACZE/8gC6VrdsB5o/s1600/IMG_1853.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ntt6pmDB9MY/UGyYcJx5inI/AAAAAAAACZE/8gC6VrdsB5o/s320/IMG_1853.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Picture of the gardens in <i>Panmen</i></td></tr>
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A visit to the place costs 40 RMB and will take at least 1 hours of walking through the whole area. I'd advise to arrive early so you can have the place to yourself before the crowds arrival.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-U62df81YO2s/UGyZlUJmu4I/AAAAAAAACZM/VrKi-026nwo/s1600/IMG_1891.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-U62df81YO2s/UGyZlUJmu4I/AAAAAAAACZM/VrKi-026nwo/s320/IMG_1891.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Waterfalls and vegetation in the gardens</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-thmSzgEGnFI/UGyaMu5MDLI/AAAAAAAACZU/KuDeABkUG6w/s1600/IMG_1893.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-thmSzgEGnFI/UGyaMu5MDLI/AAAAAAAACZU/KuDeABkUG6w/s200/IMG_1893.JPG" width="133" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;"><i>Auspicious Light<br /> Pagoda</i></td></tr>
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I'd say that one of the highlights it's the imponence of <i>Auspicious Light Pagoda, </i>53 m tall, and built in 1004 BC. For extra 6 RMB you can climb up the stairs to the top - worth it! - to have an impressive view of <i>Suzhou </i>from the heights.<br />
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Here I did my first pit-stop so I could rest from my accelerated tour totally on foot. I ate some <i>dumplings </i>more enjoying the view from the <i>Pagoda.</i></div>
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<b><i>Suzhou: big with style</i></b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNdrF6tDe07AW0FJEP_eiV5t0fVV5zH1aQRpxZGVfMH-w2c6CNloXLRBBCMXltu1-xARlTSdlMXNYvsckDuN3HU0oNTlLs1aRSyererT7CFW_1W0j4bsFSTHKzVJKXzGONpGwLxOs3K95v/s1600/IMG_1845.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNdrF6tDe07AW0FJEP_eiV5t0fVV5zH1aQRpxZGVfMH-w2c6CNloXLRBBCMXltu1-xARlTSdlMXNYvsckDuN3HU0oNTlLs1aRSyererT7CFW_1W0j4bsFSTHKzVJKXzGONpGwLxOs3K95v/s200/IMG_1845.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Crossing in <i>Suzhou</i></td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9Y9Eu3fi5tg/UGyhvEkny-I/AAAAAAAACaU/FFSf0CfyRRk/s1600/IMG_1896.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9Y9Eu3fi5tg/UGyhvEkny-I/AAAAAAAACaU/FFSf0CfyRRk/s200/IMG_1896.JPG" width="133" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Exclusive lane for<br />
motorbikes and bicycles</td></tr>
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Walking through the city at 10 am the traffic, people and everything else were moving at full steam. Not different from other Chinese cities I've been to, the city was busy and crowded but without loosing its charm. Some big avenues had specific lanes for bicycles, motorbikes and other slow speed vehicles.<br />
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Central lanes were for cars, a subway system and water canals would raise the flag for boats. All that surrounded by many trees. Observations like that make me think that once the "industrial revolution" is gone from China, beautiful cities will arise.<br />
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<b><i>The Surging Wave Pavillion</i></b><br />
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This is one of the oldest gardens in <i>Suzhou</i> among the famous scholars of the city.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hBEV0z1Q6nw/UGynPqob42I/AAAAAAAACbU/6aU0NJKzcHI/s1600/IMG_1907.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hBEV0z1Q6nw/UGynPqob42I/AAAAAAAACbU/6aU0NJKzcHI/s320/IMG_1907.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Moon shape entrance</td></tr>
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Maybe one of the more intriguing elements of Chinese gardens architecture is the Moon shape entrance ways. Every tiny detail of this entrance could have a different espiritual meaning, as also the roof. Anyway, a Moon shape entrance it's an invitation to the guests to get into the property, and usually found only in noble and/or wealthy Chinese houses.<br />
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<b><i>Pingjiang Road</i></b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju_VPUy4P2hPgvYZ9MWvBUlvIOmtyhsqKn8jE0esTZbWGY8Xafd3BWnT17WRtKAkZkVnAg8m8YXmEYIRiA9GPOKMab8D_54-54blAAWJjRHAVzVIR_9QM5spsvt_iNlPs7thZAVJelNwJ6/s1600/IMG_1917.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="179" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju_VPUy4P2hPgvYZ9MWvBUlvIOmtyhsqKn8jE0esTZbWGY8Xafd3BWnT17WRtKAkZkVnAg8m8YXmEYIRiA9GPOKMab8D_54-54blAAWJjRHAVzVIR_9QM5spsvt_iNlPs7thZAVJelNwJ6/s200/IMG_1917.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Old houses next to the canal</td></tr>
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Not just my hostel's road but maybe one of the finest and coziest places in town. One of its sides have a long pedestrian path in good state of conservation and perfect for a coffee/lunch, or just for walking around enjoying such a calm place.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO6NKJiXJu_c5qLI2RbIYTV36aOU9TujRrcVsJmpgGJavFpt7WD9-OFfGPRthXbvFXDDply_TWy9tHLKXLFcqiWPDLJetm-bGWt4mUOhMk_02J2hMY7mBDCionu-_yXlod3kFEM6SFGrYn/s1600/IMG_1918.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="163" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO6NKJiXJu_c5qLI2RbIYTV36aOU9TujRrcVsJmpgGJavFpt7WD9-OFfGPRthXbvFXDDply_TWy9tHLKXLFcqiWPDLJetm-bGWt4mUOhMk_02J2hMY7mBDCionu-_yXlod3kFEM6SFGrYn/s200/IMG_1918.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Old house next to the canal</td></tr>
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At the same time you walk next to the canal, at the other side some very old buildings are presented in almost authentic <i>Suzhou</i>'s black and white. Moreover, architecture here is quite different from Northern China for example. While there would found grey and walled houses/structures, in this part of China the buildings are lighter, with more windows and doors and some predominance of the white colour.<br />
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<b><i>The Humble Administrator's Garden</i></b><br />
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<tr><td><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-d2jYL3G5Y0s/UGyx4oh019I/AAAAAAAACdM/DdSSpP80E7c/s1600/IMG_1927.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-d2jYL3G5Y0s/UGyx4oh019I/AAAAAAAACdM/DdSSpP80E7c/s320/IMG_1927.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Picture of a small bridge over the pond</td></tr>
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I got finally to my last place to visit. Maybe one of the most famous gardens - or it's what the ticket counter trie to tell you with a 5 A's national attraction classification board, the maximum - as its considered the finest example of gardening in Southern China spreading through more than 51,000 m².<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-g8262JRkPqU/UGyyxZP-UXI/AAAAAAAACdU/WJ09Wem9tgk/s1600/IMG_1937.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-g8262JRkPqU/UGyyxZP-UXI/AAAAAAAACdU/WJ09Wem9tgk/s200/IMG_1937.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Picture of a small pavillion</td></tr>
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In 1510, <i>Wang Xiancheng</i>, poet and prosecuted emperial envoy moved to <i>Suzhou</i> and started his works to transform a former monastery in a garden. His will was to retire from politics dedicating himself to a simple life.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0_KxB_x1yfk/UGy1efrhIBI/AAAAAAAACeM/zfCG8dH5nkA/s1600/IMG_1919.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0_KxB_x1yfk/UGy1efrhIBI/AAAAAAAACeM/zfCG8dH5nkA/s200/IMG_1919.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Vegetation picture</td></tr>
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It took 16 years to the garden's construction to get finished however it suddenly changed owners since <i>Wang </i>had to sell it to honour gambling debts. Architectonic changes and different owners went through the years. In 1997 it became an UNESCO Heritage site.<br />
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Well, the <i>Suzhou</i> tour came to an end, but, amazingly, all that was done until 2 pm of the same day. Well, it became clear for me that was totally unnecessary to wake up so early and rush everything at the cost of blisters and sun burn. Next time stop will be a real megacity, an Alpha city and extremely important not just for China but for the whole world. The biggest Chinese city, with more than 23 million people, <i>Shanghai!</i></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02152018193849879223noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4089077439641967020.post-22765011177467728662012-10-04T05:07:00.000+07:002012-10-06T01:09:45.552+07:00Suzhou e seus jardins<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b>Post anterior: </b><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/09/a-capital-do-sul-nanjing.html">A Capital do Sul: <i>Nanjing</i></a></div>
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<b><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/10/suzhou-and-its-gardens.html">English Version</a></b></div>
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<b>Intro</b><br />
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Por mais que as fotos desse post venham a tentar mostrar o contrário, <i>Suzhou</i> é uma cidade grande e imponente às margens do rio <i>Yang-Tsé </i>a caminho de <i>Shanghai</i>. Mais de 4 milhões de pessoas em sua área urbana e mais de 10 milhões na região metropolitana, é uma cidade que, à moda chinesa, mistura modernidade, desenvolvimento e gigantismo com mais de 2.500 anos de história. É freqüentemente chamada também como <i>Veneza Chinesa </i>e desde 1997 seus famosos jardins foram listados como Patrimônio Cultural da Humanidade pela UNESCO.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.china-tour.cn/images/Suzhou/Suzhou-City-Map.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://www.china-tour.cn/images/Suzhou/Suzhou-City-Map.jpg" width="310" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mapa de <i>Suzhou</i></td></tr>
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<b>Chegada em <i>Suzhou</i></b></div>
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O trajeto entre <i>Nanjing </i>e <i>Suzhou</i> foi a primeira vez na minha vida que estive dentro de um trem bala. Enquanto esperava na moderníssima estação (ou aeroporto?) em <i>Nanjing </i>fiquei ansioso sobre como seria essa experiência. Cerca de 15 min antes do horário marcado no bilhete, o trem chegou na estação. A partir daí as catracas específicas para a plataforma desse trem começaram a piscar indicando que podíamos seguir em frente. Os trens, brancos e enormes e com um nariz gigante na frente, eram extremamente limpos e modernos - uma experiência um tanto diferente dos trens que havia pegado até então. Isso porém não impediu o <i>paradoxo chinês</i>. Ao mesmo tempo que a tecnologia proporcionada era moderna e que sim, boa parte dos passageiros estava vestindo roupas formais e se apresentavam como pessoas <i>da metrópole</i>, um contingente enorme de chineses e suas famílias carregando malas fora de medidas, comida, pacotes, etc., se espremeu até se acomodar no trem. Ali mesmo havia o choque entre a China urbana, moderna, midiática e aquela que ainda é rural e corre atrás para se adaptar a tantas mudanças.</div>
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100 km/h, 150 km/h, 200 km/h, 240 km/h e daí o trem se estabilizou nessa velocidade. A cada 15-20 minutos chegávamos a uma estação diferente e o processo de (des)aceleração se repetia. Anúncios, mensagens e a própria velocidade eram disponibilizados em chinês e inglês. A 240 km/h, que ainda não é a velocidade máxima de um trem bala na China, o cenário passa realmente rápido. As curvas são freqüentemente sentidas com solavancos e há uma certa sensação de se estar dentro de um avião já que poltronas, "aeromoças", são de alguma forma parecidos. Não muito tempo depois cheguei em <i>Suzhou</i>.</div>
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Já era noite e minha primeira tarefa era chegar até o hostel, por sinal, um da rede <i>Mingtown</i>, que normalmente oferece serviços básicos - em outras palavras, cama. Encontrei o ônibus que me levaria até as imediações do hostel - área turística de <i>Suzhou - </i>e antes que houvesse espaço pra me perder achei melhor checar com um jovem chinês que estava dentro do ônibus qual deveria ser a minha parada. Hipótese correta, ele provavelmente era um universitário e falava inglês. Descendo, percorri alguns caminhos bem escuros e antes que me perdesse de novo resolvi consultar duas senhoras que obviamente não falavam inglês. A saída foi mostrar a tela do iPad em que constava o nome, em chinês, do hostel. Alguns sinais, resmungos e deu a entender que era apenas seguir em frente. Finalmente, achei o hostel.</div>
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Fiz check-in, paguei, deixei minhas coisas no armário e saí para procurar comida. Às 22h, a rua do meu hostel estava começando a ficar deserta e restaurantes estavam fechando. Havia uma abundância de cafés - caros - e que muitas vezes não tinham qualquer opção de refeição. Andei por meia hora e acabei desistindo. Entrei no café vizinho ao meu hostel, repleto de jovens chineses "moderninhos", e "jantei" um frappuccino por 35 RMB.</div>
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<b>Explorando <i>Suzhou</i></b></div>
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Eu tinha apenas 2 noites e 1 dia em <i>Suzhou</i>, portanto, tudo que eu quisesse ver na cidade tinha que ser feito nesse único dia. Com isso em mente, diferente dos meus colegas de dormitório, acordei bem cedo, às 6h, e dei início ao passeio.<br />
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Comecei com a tentativa de comprar meu café da manhã. Um pouco difícil, porque turistas geralmente não acordam nessa hora e daí boa parte da área turística imediatamente próxima ao meu hostel estava fechada. Porém, como é comum em toda a China achei alguma coisa que lembra um <i>dumpling </i>e comprei cerca de 8 por 10 RMB. Fui comendo ao longo do caminho. Minha idéia era fazer uma visita às "torres gêmeos", duas <i>Pagodas </i>uma ao lado da outra, mas quando cheguei próximo a elas descobri que estavam fechadas para reforma, uma pena.<br />
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<b><i>A Arte dos Jardins Chineses</i></b><br />
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Os jardins chineses procuram recriar em miniatura paisagens naturais. Essa arte evoluiu durante mais de 3.000 anos e era comum que imperadores construíssem jardins enormes e suntuosos enquanto que pequenos jardins eram recriados por nobres, professores, artistas, etc. A composição clássica de um jardim chinês é feita através de muros, um ou mais lagos, pedras, flores e árvores, e uma combinação de halls, pavilhões e caminhos em zig-zag, de forma a apresentar ao visitante cenas cuidadosamente planejadas.<br />
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<b><i>The Garden of the Master of the Nets</i></b><br />
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O primeiro jardim que consegui entrar foi esse e a entrada custou cerca de 30 RMB. Foi originalmente criado em 1140 e recriado em 1770 pelo burocrata <i>Song Zongyuan</i>.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EG7nIbVes2g/UGySH1aPKiI/AAAAAAAACYE/5ZCuIUYaQlY/s1600/IMG_1836.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="188" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EG7nIbVes2g/UGySH1aPKiI/AAAAAAAACYE/5ZCuIUYaQlY/s320/IMG_1836.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vista interna do jardim</td></tr>
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O contexto dos jardins clássicos é mais ou menos o mesmo. Um burocrata/comerciante/etc bem sucedido, resolve transformar sua própria residência em uma obra de arte paisagística, acrescentando lagos, plantas, pedras, ambientes visando representar idéias de paz, harmonia, etc., elementos comuns na cultura chinesa.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cVmxeYoZN1A/UGySx7erjQI/AAAAAAAACYM/p9C-LKaez9A/s1600/IMG_1838.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cVmxeYoZN1A/UGySx7erjQI/AAAAAAAACYM/p9C-LKaez9A/s320/IMG_1838.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Detalhe em janelas e vidros</td></tr>
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<i> <b>Panmen Gate</b></i><br />
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Esse lugar tem esse nome devido a um portão construído a milhares de anos atrás que servia como porta de entrada para <i>Suzhou</i>. No entanto, eu diria que o maior atrativo nesse caso não é esse portão mas sim os jardins, lagos e construções em volta. Na minha opinião esse seria o jardim mais bonito de <i>Suzhou</i>.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ntt6pmDB9MY/UGyYcJx5inI/AAAAAAAACZE/8gC6VrdsB5o/s1600/IMG_1853.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ntt6pmDB9MY/UGyYcJx5inI/AAAAAAAACZE/8gC6VrdsB5o/s320/IMG_1853.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Foto dos jardins em <i>Panmen</i></td></tr>
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Uma visita ao local custa cerca de 40 RMB e tomará pelo menos 1 hora de passeio pelos jardins, muros, estruturas, etc. Eu aconselharia chegar cedo pra poder melhor aproveitar o local e evitar o tumulto causado pelos grandes grupos de turistas ao longo do dia.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-U62df81YO2s/UGyZlUJmu4I/AAAAAAAACZM/VrKi-026nwo/s1600/IMG_1891.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-U62df81YO2s/UGyZlUJmu4I/AAAAAAAACZM/VrKi-026nwo/s320/IMG_1891.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cachoeiras e vegetação nos jardins</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-thmSzgEGnFI/UGyaMu5MDLI/AAAAAAAACZU/KuDeABkUG6w/s1600/IMG_1893.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-thmSzgEGnFI/UGyaMu5MDLI/AAAAAAAACZU/KuDeABkUG6w/s200/IMG_1893.JPG" width="133" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Auspicious Light<br /> Pagoda</i></td></tr>
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Eu diria que definitivamente um dos pontos altos é a imponência da <i>Auspicious Light Pagoda </i>com 53 m, tendo sido construída no ano de 1004 AC. Por 6 RMB extras é possível subir as escadas até o último andar - vale a pena! - e ter uma vista impressionante de <i>Suzhou</i> a partir das alturas.<br />
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Aqui fiz também minha primeira parada pra descansar já que o ritmo do passeio estava bem acelerado e totalmente a pé. Comi mais alguns <i>dumplings </i>aproveitando a vista do alto da <i>Pagoda</i>.</div>
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<b><i>Suzhou: grande e com estilo</i></b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNdrF6tDe07AW0FJEP_eiV5t0fVV5zH1aQRpxZGVfMH-w2c6CNloXLRBBCMXltu1-xARlTSdlMXNYvsckDuN3HU0oNTlLs1aRSyererT7CFW_1W0j4bsFSTHKzVJKXzGONpGwLxOs3K95v/s1600/IMG_1845.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNdrF6tDe07AW0FJEP_eiV5t0fVV5zH1aQRpxZGVfMH-w2c6CNloXLRBBCMXltu1-xARlTSdlMXNYvsckDuN3HU0oNTlLs1aRSyererT7CFW_1W0j4bsFSTHKzVJKXzGONpGwLxOs3K95v/s200/IMG_1845.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cruzamento em <i>Suzhou</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9Y9Eu3fi5tg/UGyhvEkny-I/AAAAAAAACaU/FFSf0CfyRRk/s1600/IMG_1896.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9Y9Eu3fi5tg/UGyhvEkny-I/AAAAAAAACaU/FFSf0CfyRRk/s200/IMG_1896.JPG" width="133" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Faixa exclusiva p/ motos<br />
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Andando pela cidade já passava das 10h da manhã e o trânsito de pessoas e coisas estava a pleno vapor. Não sendo diferente de outras cidades chinesas, a cidade era agitada porém sem perder a compostura. Algumas grandes ruas tinham faixas específicas para bicicletas, motos e outros veículos de baixa velocidade.<br />
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Faixas centrais para carros, um sistema de metrô e até uma rede de canais com possibilidade de se utilizar barcos. Tudo isso envolto por uma grande quantidade de árvores. Questões como essa me fazem pensar de que após superada sua "revolução industrial", a China terá belíssimas cidades.<br />
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<b><i>The Surging Wave Pavillion</i></b><br />
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Esse é um dos jardins mais antigos de <i>Suzhou</i> entre os que foram pertencidos por professores renomados da cidade.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hBEV0z1Q6nw/UGynPqob42I/AAAAAAAACbU/6aU0NJKzcHI/s1600/IMG_1907.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hBEV0z1Q6nw/UGynPqob42I/AAAAAAAACbU/6aU0NJKzcHI/s320/IMG_1907.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Entrada em formato de Lua</td></tr>
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Acho que um dos elementos mais intrigantes da arquitetura de jardins chineses são os pórticos em formato de Lua. Cada pequeno detalhe desse estilo de pórtico apresenta um significado espiritual diferente, tendo o telhado logo acima com adornos também específicos. De qualquer forma, um pórtico em lua é um convite para que as pessoas entrem à propriedade, e geralmente eram encontrados apenas nas residências chineses ricos e nobres.<br />
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<b><i>Pingjiang Road</i></b><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Casas antigas à margem do canal</td></tr>
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Não apenas a rua do meu hostel mas também provavelmente um dos canais mais bonitos e aconchegantes da cidade. Um de seus lados possui uma extensa passarela quase que inteiramente em bom estado de conservação e perfeita para um café/almoço, ou simplesmente perambular aproveitando a calmaria do lugar.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Casa antiga à margem do canal</td></tr>
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Ao mesmo tempo em que você passeia por uma das margens, a outra, à beira do canal, apresenta construções muito antigas quase no autêntico preto e branco de <i>Suzhou</i>. Aliás, a arquitetura daqui é muito diferente de lugares como o norte da China por exemplo. Enquanto lá as construções eram carregadas de cores escuras e grandes muros, nesta parte da China as construções parecem mais leves, com maior quantidade de janelas, portas e predomínio da cor branca.<br />
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<b><i>The Humble Administrator's Garden</i></b><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Foto de ponte sobre o lago</td></tr>
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Chegamos então ao último jardim da minha visita. Talvez o mais aclamado de todos - ou é o que a bilheteria deixa transparecer com os 5 A's de classificação turística, nota máxima - esse jardim é considerado o mais fino exemplo de jardinagem do sul da China e se espalha por uma área de mais de 51.000 m².<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Foto de pequeno pavilhão</td></tr>
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Em 1510, <i>Wang Xiancheng</i>, poeta e enviado imperial perseguido mudou-se para <i>Suzhou</i> e iniciou os trabalhos para transformar o antigo monastério que funcionava no local em seu jardim. Seu desejo era se aposentar da política dedicando-se a uma vida simples.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Foto da vegetação</td></tr>
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Levou 16 anos até que o jardim ficasse pronto porém logo mudou de mãos pois <i>Wang </i>teve que vendê-lo para honrar perdas com apostas. Mudanças arquitetônicas e diferentes proprietários se sucederam ao longo dos anos. Em 1997 passou a ser listado como Patrimônio Cultural da Humanidade pela UNESCO.<br />
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Aqui o passeio por <i>Suzhou </i>chega ao fim, mas, pasmem, tudo isso foi feito até às 14h do dia. Ou seja, era totalmente desnecessário acordar tão cedo e fazer tudo na correria e ao custo de bolhas e algumas queimaduras de sol. A próxima parada vai ser uma verdadeira megalópole, uma cidade alfa e extremamente importante não apenas na China mas no mundo todo. A maior cidade chinesa, com mais de 23 milhões de habitantes, <i>Shanghai!</i></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02152018193849879223noreply@blogger.com0Suzhou, Jiangsu, China31.298886 120.58531631.081805499999998 120.26945900000001 31.5159665 120.901173tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4089077439641967020.post-13057967047891312932012-09-29T00:52:00.000+07:002012-10-06T01:07:35.588+07:00The Southern capital: Nanjing<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b>Previous Post: </b><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/09/the-western-capital-xian.html">The Western capital: Xi'An</a></div>
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<b><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/09/a-capital-do-sul-nanjing.html">Versão em Português</a></b></div>
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<b><i>Intro</i></b></div>
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<i>Nanjing </i>is commonly known as <i>Nanking </i>outside China and its name means <i>Southern Capital</i>, opposite to <i>Beijing </i>which means <i>Northern Capital</i>. Many dynasties also set up here through Chinese history and, recently, it was China's Republic capital from 1927 to 1949, when its members were expelled to <i>Taiwan</i>.</div>
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<i>Nanjing </i>has 5 million people and marks a change in my trip. So far I had been through some ancient and traditional China. From <i>Nanjing </i>on, however temples and Chinese habits were still coming up, this traditional figure of China started to be replaced by modern China. This is the Chinese part where changes went faster and earlier due to <i>Den Xiaping </i>- the father of the Chinese development model - economic liberalization reforms. Therefore, here I found a great number of bullet trains, skyscrapers, rich Chinese, luxury, etc. Food and accommodation prices, in a general impression, went up and the train stations changed radically. Now the communist-soviet grey block style was being replaced by the extremely modern <i>design</i>, almost like airports.</div>
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Although I could have found more of this megalomaniac stuff from <i>Nanjing</i>, my experience was marked by lots of green (and rain) in a very familiar environment. Transportation within <i>Nanjing </i>was quite easy. There's an extensive - although not as in <i>Beijing </i>- subway network combined with regular buses. In general the touristic spots will have signs and maps written in Chinese and English.</div>
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<tr><td><a href="http://www.china-mike.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/nanjing_city_map.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="254" src="http://www.china-mike.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/nanjing_city_map.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Map of <i>Nanjing</i></td></tr>
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<b><i>Traveling/Arrival - One more story about how the Chinese are friendly and helpful...</i></b></div>
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My departure from <i>Xi'An </i>was a real challenge. Between <i>Xi'An </i>and <i>Nanjing</i> there's "just" 1.077 km in an almost straight line. Booking a train ticket can be almost impossible, especially during weekends. In fact, I wasn't able to secure that booking. All the few trains that cover this leg were sold out or had just luxury seats available - 7 to 8x more expensive. Loose the itinerary or flying? Things would be harder if <i>Shirley </i>(yes, my host from the previous post) didn't have some hot contacts with the bus company that serves this route. She arranged me a sleeper bus ticket exactly as I needed for my schedule and even with a discount, just 150 RMB. Besides, she even took me to the bus station and certified herself that I was in the right bus and that the drivers knew that I was foreigner who could not speak Chinese.<br />
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During the night I went some curious experiences. I had never traveled in a sleeper bus before and I realized I wasn't missing that much. For start, I was scaried that my stuff could be robbed so I carried all with me in my bed. Bad decision. The bed was so tiny and just that would be enough to make my night as uncomfortable as it was. The second thing was that sleeping was even more difficult with the horrible foot odor - minimized due to the driver's initiative of spraying the smelly feet owners before packing it plastic bags! - and some nearby people snoring - I tried to throw pillows, poke them, etc., but didn't work. Anyway, I got to <i>Nanjing </i>as planned at 6 am.</div>
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In the bus I had briefly spoken to a man that was seating in the bed next to mine. He couldn't speak English very well, just a few comprehensible words and most of our conversation went through with iPad's help and my passport's stamps. I tried to find out if there was a subway station close to <i>Nanjing</i>'s bus station. I finally found out that he was offering himself to guide me until the subway. Ok.<br />
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As I got there and started to unload my stuff, backpack and so on, he asked me to follow him. I did. We walked around 15 min until we found a subway stairway. The station had nothing different from other parts of China - including the machines to buy tickets. Still, he changed 10 RMB in coins for me and wouldn't allow me to pay him back.<br />
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<b><i>Finding Beppie & Gert's house</i></b></div>
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In <i>Nanjing </i>I also had planned to couchsurf. And it was an awesome and unforgetable experience. It wasn't that easy to find their house but was totally worth it!</div>
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<tr><td><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-g1xWxCxOUWM/UGSKjHl_oqI/AAAAAAAACVg/2xQnhxrnK0w/s1600/Beppie+&+Gert+family.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-g1xWxCxOUWM/UGSKjHl_oqI/AAAAAAAACVg/2xQnhxrnK0w/s320/Beppie+&+Gert+family.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><i>Little & Big Gert</i>, <i>Aletta </i>and <i>Beppie</i></td></tr>
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I was on the road for more than 2 weeks, dealing with all the difficulties of traveling in China - something very scary at the beginning. Soon, being part of this family for 3 days was a relief. Breakfast, dinner and sometimes even lunch, in family style - <i>Beppie</i>, <i>Little Gert</i> and <i>Aletta</i>. Lots of laughs and lots of stories. They're an expat family from South Africa, speak English and Dutch and have been traveling through 27 different countries, hosting and being hosted many times. I was so happy to be able to interact with so experienced people having lots of fun and remembering what cheese, milk, pancakes and lasagna were. :)</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><i>Nanjing's </i>area I was being hosted</td></tr>
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<i>Big Gert</i>, <i>Beppie's </i>husband, is an automotive engineer and he was expatriated from South Africa 6 years ago. <i>Little Gert </i>and <i>Alleta </i>were small kids at the time they came to China. It's always interesting to talk to people who have been living in emerging regions for many years. According to <i>Beppie</i>, arround their neighborhood there was nothing but farms 6 years ago.</div>
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<b><i>Xuanwu Lake</i></b></div>
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This is one of the main lakes of <i>Nanjing</i>, with 444 hectare and 15 km in circle, so huge. It was one of my first tours in the city. Around the like there's also the remnants of the wall that used to protect <i>Nanjing</i> from invaders.</div>
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<tr><td><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gbuV6b-rtKk/UGSdMIpwpTI/AAAAAAAACXM/ADmMwSrkvcA/s1600/IMG_1696.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gbuV6b-rtKk/UGSdMIpwpTI/AAAAAAAACXM/ADmMwSrkvcA/s320/IMG_1696.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Picture of <i>Xuanwu </i>Lake</td></tr>
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The legend says that a dark dragon was seen inside the lake and according to Chinese Taoists that should be a water protection god, thus was given its name to the lake, <i>Xuanwu</i>.</div>
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<b><i>Nanjing Memorial Massacre</i></b></div>
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<tr><td><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tUTs-rGyLYQ/UGSC06cBy-I/AAAAAAAACUk/UTnSRPc1Ukg/s1600/IMG_1674.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tUTs-rGyLYQ/UGSC06cBy-I/AAAAAAAACUk/UTnSRPc1Ukg/s320/IMG_1674.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">One of the signs in the Memorial</td></tr>
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In 2nd WW context Japan dominated most of East Asia, including China. In 1937, <i>Nanjing </i>was captured by Japanese forces. The <i>Nanjing Massacre </i>is also known as <i>Nanjing's Rape </i>and was a period of 6 weeks where 240 to 300 thousand civilians and disarmed soldiers were killed. This episode was denied by Japan many times in history, maybe, because one of the commanders was the prince <i>Asaka</i> and the massacre itself was commited under the orders of emperor <i>Hirohito</i>. Anyway, the incident remains alive in people's minds and it's one of the causes for the conflictual Sino-Japanese relations. For example, the popular anger about the sovereignity of Pacific Ocean islands probably already started from a bad and frayed image of Japan among Chinese people.</div>
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<tr><td><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VBKJhrwrpMQ/UGSDkF4w5TI/AAAAAAAACUs/eL_qyy6gIzs/s1600/IMG_1681.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VBKJhrwrpMQ/UGSDkF4w5TI/AAAAAAAACUs/eL_qyy6gIzs/s320/IMG_1681.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Image of the stacked bodies during the Massacre</td></tr>
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The museum has thousands of testimonials in Chinese and English of people who have survived, international correspondents, exapatriates, etc., who saw the carnage that happened at that time. My impression is that the museum fails to create a peace, forggiving and regret feeling instead of hate, revange and anger against the Japanese. Anyway, I believe that it should be like the experience of visiting <i>Auschwitz</i> in Poland and must be part of the tourist's agenda in <i>Nanjing. </i></div>
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<b>PURPLE MOUNTAIN</b></div>
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This is a complex of parks, cultural areas and touristic attractions all located in a 447m peak mountain in <i>Nanjing</i>. Usually you can purchase the through ticket for all the attractions for 100 RMB. However, walking all over it in just 1 day may be a challenge. I got exhausted after that and I didn't even walked the whole thing - the rainy werather for example made unnecessary to visit the top of the mountain or the observatory.</div>
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<b><i>Ming Xiaoling Mausoleum</i></b></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Entrance gate to the mausoleum</td></tr>
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The <i>Ming </i>dynasty had the tradition of burrying their members in huge mausoleums scattered around China. This mausoleum thus was built to emperor <i>Hongwu</i>, who died in 1381. The original walls of the mausoleum had more than 22 km of extension and were needed 100,000 workers to build it.</div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRVmcyxovHrzbrq8h5o31fbnQ_XeoWtHggyUWn1IpkTYhn1-9nXBsXREYZLGCqlfbo6YTF90zuSAJErFwtMD1g2-uNdwRybq3r3-YmfRXlZvE540cN9jT-Nr5In3V4zYxhh76xlbnjFNP7/s1600/IMG_1720.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRVmcyxovHrzbrq8h5o31fbnQ_XeoWtHggyUWn1IpkTYhn1-9nXBsXREYZLGCqlfbo6YTF90zuSAJErFwtMD1g2-uNdwRybq3r3-YmfRXlZvE540cN9jT-Nr5In3V4zYxhh76xlbnjFNP7/s320/IMG_1720.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><i>Ming </i>Mausoleum</td></tr>
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The mausoleum it's more interesting because of its exterior architectural grandeur rather than its interior. After getting through the tunnel, there's a ramp until you reach the walls level. There you can see a small shop and some minor exibition.</div>
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<b><i>Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Mausoleum</i></b></div>
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Dr. <i>Sun Yat-Sen </i>was born in 1866 and died in 1925. He was known as one of the fathers of modern China due to his fight against the emperial government of dynasty <i>Qing</i>, which was overthrown in 1911 to the creation of the Republic of China.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Stairway to the mausoleum</td></tr>
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The mausoleum was finished in 1929 and it was build after a design competition in which the total cost of the winning proposal could not exceed 300,000 RMB. The mausoleum can be accessed through a stairway of linear 450 m and 392 steps. The Republic of China was founded by members of the <i>Kuonmintang </i>party which later would be expelled to <i>Taiwan </i>by the comunists. However, as strange as it is the ceiling of the mausoleum was left untouched by the Cultural Revolution, and it's painted as <i>Taiwan</i>'s flag.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">View of the stairway from the mausoleum</td></tr>
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If all those people were there in a rainy day, imagine in sunny day? From everywhere Chinese tourist groups and their guides - with loud speakers and flags - came. All that crowd should not be seen as a <i>negative aspect while traveling in China </i>but faced as a real experience of traveling in China, as, in fact, we're talking about the most populous country in the world, right?</div>
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<b><i>Wuliang Hall</i></b></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;"><i>Wuliang Hall </i>picture</td></tr>
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Also known as <i>Beamless Hall</i>, it was built in 1381 and it's 22 m long and 53 m wide. In its construction were used just bricks from the ground to the ceiling without any nail or beam.</div>
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<b><i>Linggu Pagoda</i></b></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><i>Linggu Pagoda </i>picture</td></tr>
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<i>Linggu Pagoda </i>was built in 1929 as a memorial for soldiers who died in the Northern Expeditionary War fought between 1926 and 1928 with the purpose to unify China under <i>Kuonmintang's </i>command. The <i>Pagoda </i>has 9 stores and it's 60.5 m high. You can climb all the way up and have a view - even if not that clear due to clouds or rain - very interesting of most of <i>Purple Mountain</i>'s foot.</div>
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To find the <i>Pagoda </i>easily, go through <i>Linggu Temple</i> interior and follow the middle-track.</div>
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Before leacing <i>Nanjing </i>I still spent some time in a smaller park, near my host neighborhood. However I didn't find the name in the internet. Anyway, when I went to buy train tickets to <i>Suzhou</i>, I was lucky and found a teller who could speak English. To make my life easier I bought not just the ticket to <i>Suzhou</i> but from <i>Suzhou </i>to <i>Shanghai </i>too.</div>
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<i>Nanjing </i>was a revigorating and nice experience. I recharged my energies to keep going. Next stop will be <i><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/10/suzhou-and-its-gardens.html">"the garden capital of China", Suzhou</a></i>. And, a detail, this journey will be done in a bullet train, at 240 km/h. See you soon! :)</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02152018193849879223noreply@blogger.com0Nanjing, Jiangsu, China32.060255 118.79687731.629638999999997 118.16516299999999 32.490871 119.428591tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4089077439641967020.post-90059222176075614742012-09-28T01:50:00.001+07:002012-10-06T01:08:30.758+07:00A capital do Sul: Nanjing<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b>Post anterior: </b><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/09/a-capital-do-oeste-xian.html">A capital do Oeste: Xi'An</a><br />
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<b><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/09/the-southern-capital-nanjing.html">English Version</a></b></div>
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<b><i>Intro</i></b></div>
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<i>Nanjing </i>também é mundialmente conhecida por <i>Nanking </i>e seu nome significa <i>Capital do Sul</i>, em oposição a <i>Beijing </i>que significa <i>Capital do Norte</i>. Várias dinastias também se estabeleceram aqui ao longo da história chinesa e, mais recentemente, foi a capital da República da China entre 1927 até 1949, quando seus dirigentes foram expulsos para <i>Taiwan</i>.</div>
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<i>Nanjing </i>tem 5 milhões de habitantes e marca uma mudança na viagem. Até então eu tinha visto de certa forma a China mais antiga, mais tradicional. A partir de <i>Nanjing</i>, embora continuem existindo templos, hábitos chineses, etc., essa figura mais tradicional passa a dar lugar à China mais moderna. Essa é a parte da China que passou mais rápido e mais cedo pelas reformas de liberalização econômica de <i>Den Xiaoping</i> - pai do modelo chinês de desenvolvimento. Portanto, é aí que encontra-se em um número muito mais pronunciado os trens bala, arranha-céus, chineses ricos, luxo, etc. O preço da comida e da hospedagem, de maneira geral, passaram a subir e o aspecto das estações de trem mudou totalmente. Agora as estações deixaram de parecer gigantescos blocos soviético-comunistas para dar lugar a <i>designs </i>extremamente modernos lembrando até aeroportos.</div>
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Apesar de toda a megalomania que eu poderia ter encontrado a partir de <i>Nanjing</i>, minha experiência foi marcada por muito verde (e chuva) num ambiente muito familiar! Me deslocar em <i>Nanjing </i>foi de forma geral muito fácil. Há uma extensa - pequena quando comparada a <i>Beijing</i> - rede de metrô combinada com ônibus. Em geral os pontos turísticos e imediações possuem placas e mapas escritos em chinês e inglês.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.china-mike.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/nanjing_city_map.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="254" src="http://www.china-mike.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/nanjing_city_map.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mapa de <i>Nanjing</i></td></tr>
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<b><i>Viajando/Chegada - Mais uma história de como os chineses são amigáveis e solícitos...</i></b></div>
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A saída de <i>Xi'An </i>tinha sido um verdadeiro desafio. Entre <i>Xi'An </i>e <i>Nanjing </i>há uma distância de nada menos que 1.077 km, de certa forma quase em linha reta. Conseguir uma vaga em um trem entre as cidades pode ser um enorme desafio, principalmente perto de finais-de-semana. Fato é que eu não consegui essa vaga. Todas as passagens dos poucos trens que cobrem essa rota estavam esgotados ou lugares disponíveis apenas em setores de luxo - 7 a 8x mais caro. Perder o itinerário ou pegar um avião? E a coisa teria ido por aí não fosse a <i>Shirley </i>(sim, minha <i>host </i>do post anterior) ter alguns contatos com companhias de ônibus que fazem essa rota. Ela conseguiu uma passagem num ônibus leito nos horários que eu precisava e ainda com desconto, por 150 RMB. Além disso ela me levou até a rodoviária e se certificou pessoalmente de que eu estava subindo no ônibus certo e que os motoristas soubessem que eu era estrangeiro e que não falava chinês.</div>
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Durante a noite passei por algumas experiências curiosas. Eu nunca tinha viajado em um ônibus leito na vida e logo percebi que não estava perdendo muita coisa. Pra começar, fiquei com medo que as minhas bagagens fossem roubadas em alguma parada e por isso coloquei tudo na cama junto comigo. Má decisão. A cama era muito pequena e só isso já fez a noite ser muito desconfortável. A segunda coisa foi que dormir ficou ainda mais difícil com o chulé absurdo - minimizado com o motorista passando com um spray de cheiro e literalmente colocando sacos nos pés dos fedidos - e o ronco de algumas pessoas próximas - eu tentei jogar travesseiro, cutucar, etc., mas não teve efeito. De qualquer forma, cheguei em <i>Nanjing </i>às 06h da manhã como esperado.</div>
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No ônibus durante a noite eu tinha conversado por um momento breve com um homem que estava na cama anterior à minha. Ele falava algumas pouquíssimas palavras em inglês e boa parte da nossa comunicação foi possível por intermédio do iPad e do meu passaporte que mostrava os lugares que eu já tinha ido. Tentei descobrir se havia algum metrô próximo à rodoviária quando chegássemos em <i>Nanjing</i>. Consegui entender que aquele homem estava se oferecendo para me guiar até o metrô. Tudo bem.</div>
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Logo que chegamos e comecei a descarregar as coisas, mochilas e tal, ele pediu pra que eu seguisse. Fui atrás dele. Andamos em torno de 15 min até acharmos o metrô. A estação não tinha nada de mais e seguia o padrão de outras estações na China - inclusive a forma de comprar tickets. Mesmo assim ele fez questão de trocar 10 RMB em moedas pra mim e recusou qualquer forma que eu tentasse pra pagar ele de volta.</div>
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<b><i>Encontrando a casa de Beppie & Gert</i></b></div>
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Em <i>Nanjing</i> eu também tinha planejado de ficar na casa de um <i>host </i>da comunidade do <i>Couchsurf. </i>E não poderia ter deixado de ser uma ótima e inesquecível experiência. Tive alguma dificuldade para encontrar a casa deles, no subúrbio de <i>Nanjing</i>, mas o esforço valeu totalmente a pena.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-g1xWxCxOUWM/UGSKjHl_oqI/AAAAAAAACVg/2xQnhxrnK0w/s1600/Beppie+&+Gert+family.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-g1xWxCxOUWM/UGSKjHl_oqI/AAAAAAAACVg/2xQnhxrnK0w/s320/Beppie+&+Gert+family.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Little & Big Gert</i>, <i>Aletta </i>e <i>Beppie</i></td></tr>
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Eu já estava há mais de 2 semanas viajando e lidando com as dificuldades de se viajar na China - algo um pouco assustador no começo. De repente, fazer parte dessa família por 3 dias foi quase que um alívio. Café da manhã, jantar e às vezes até almoço em família - <i>Beppie, Little Gert </i>e <i>Aletta</i>. Muitas risadas e muitas histórias. Eles são uma família expatriada da África do Sul, falam inglês e holandês e já viajaram por 27 países diferentes, hospedaram e foram hospedados várias vezes. Tamanha foi minha felicidade em poder interagir com pessoas ao mesmo tempo tão cultas e divertidas e relembrar do que é queijo, leite, panquecas, lasanha, etc.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7t5RGaBMumk/UGSaxsMI8XI/AAAAAAAACXE/z5faY7WrOQQ/s1600/IMG_1827.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7t5RGaBMumk/UGSaxsMI8XI/AAAAAAAACXE/z5faY7WrOQQ/s320/IMG_1827.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Área de <i>Nanjing </i>que fiquei hospedado</td></tr>
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<i>Big Gert</i>, marido de <i>Beppie</i>, é engenheiro automobilístico e foi expatriado da África do Sul há 6 anos atrás. <i>Little Gert </i>e <i>Alleta </i>eram pequenos quando se mudaram para a China. É sempre algo interessante poder falar com pessoas que residiram em pólos emergentes por vários anos. Segundo <i>Beppie, </i>ao redor do condomínio deles não havia nada além de fazendas 6 anos atrás. </div>
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<b><i>Xuanwu Lake</i></b></div>
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É um dos lagos principais de <i>Nanjing</i>, tendo 444 hectares e 15 km em circunferência, portanto enorme. Foi um dos primeiro passeios que fiz na cidade. Ao redor do lago também está as remanescências da antiga muralha que protegia <i>Nanjing</i>.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gbuV6b-rtKk/UGSdMIpwpTI/AAAAAAAACXM/ADmMwSrkvcA/s1600/IMG_1696.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gbuV6b-rtKk/UGSdMIpwpTI/AAAAAAAACXM/ADmMwSrkvcA/s320/IMG_1696.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Foto do lago <i>Xuanwu</i></td></tr>
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Reza a lenda que um dragão negro foi visto dentro do lado e segundo os chineses taoístas esse deveria ser um deus protetor da água, portanto foi dado o seu nome ao lago, <i>Xuanwu.</i></div>
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<b><i>Memorial do Massacre de Nanjing</i></b></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tUTs-rGyLYQ/UGSC06cBy-I/AAAAAAAACUk/UTnSRPc1Ukg/s1600/IMG_1674.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tUTs-rGyLYQ/UGSC06cBy-I/AAAAAAAACUk/UTnSRPc1Ukg/s320/IMG_1674.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Placa em uma das paredes do Memorial</td></tr>
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No contexto da 2a Guerra Mundial o Japão dominou uma parte expressiva do Leste Asiático, incluindo aí a China. Em 1937, <i>Nanjing </i>foi capturada por forças japonesas. O <i>Massacre de Nanjing </i>é também conhecido como o <i>Estrupro de Nanjing </i>e representa um período de 6 semanas em que entre 240 a 300 mil civis e soldados desarmados foram mortos. Esse episódio foi negado pelo Japão diversas vezes, talvez, porque um dos comandantes era o príncipe <i>Asaka </i>e o massacre havia sido começado por ordens do imperador <i>Hirohito</i>. De qualquer forma o incidente permanece muito vivo na mente dos chineses e são uma das causas pelas relação Sino-Japonesa ser um tanto conflituosa. Por exemplo, o fervor popular no conflito pela soberania de algumas ilhas no pacífico provavelmente partem já de uma imagem ruim e desgastada do Japão dentre a população chinesa.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VBKJhrwrpMQ/UGSDkF4w5TI/AAAAAAAACUs/eL_qyy6gIzs/s1600/IMG_1681.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VBKJhrwrpMQ/UGSDkF4w5TI/AAAAAAAACUs/eL_qyy6gIzs/s320/IMG_1681.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Imagem dos corpos amontoados durante o massacre</td></tr>
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O museu contém milhares de depoimentos em chinês e inglês de sobreviventes, enviados internacionais, expatriados, etc., que vivenciaram o carniceria que ocorreu naquela época. Muitas vezes acho que o museu está falhando em tentar criar ao invés de um sentimento de paz, perdão e arrependimento, ódio, revanche e raiva contra os japoneses. De qualquer forma, acredito que seja uma experiência equivalente a se visitar lugares como <i>Auschwitz </i>na Polônia e deve fazer parte da agenda do turista em <i>Nanjing</i>.</div>
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<b>PURPLE MOUNTAIN</b></div>
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É um complexo de parques, áreas culturais e pontos turísticos localizados em uma montanha de cerca de 447 m em <i>Nanjing.</i> Geralmente pode-se adquirir uma entrada única para todas as atrações por cerca de 100 RMB. No entanto, fazer todo o trajeto em apenas 1 dia pode ser um verdadeiro desafio. Fiquei exausto depois desse dia mesmo não tendo ido em todos os lugares - o tempo chuvoso por exemplo tornava desnecessário ir visitar o topo da montanha ou o observatório.</div>
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<b><i>Ming Xiaoling Mausoleum</i></b></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iFzc2GSFAZ0/UGSPTXJpS7I/AAAAAAAACWA/BF9auN96Qsw/s1600/IMG_1718.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iFzc2GSFAZ0/UGSPTXJpS7I/AAAAAAAACWA/BF9auN96Qsw/s320/IMG_1718.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Portão de entrada do mausoléu</td></tr>
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A dinastia <i>Ming </i>tinha o hábito de enterrar seus membros após a morte em enormes mausoléus espalhados por toda China. Esse mausoléu portanto não foge à regra e foi construído para receber o corpo do imperador <i>Hongwu</i>, falecido em 1381. Os muros originais do mausoléu tinham mais de 22 km de extensão e foram necessários mais 100.000 trabalhadores para concluir as obras.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRVmcyxovHrzbrq8h5o31fbnQ_XeoWtHggyUWn1IpkTYhn1-9nXBsXREYZLGCqlfbo6YTF90zuSAJErFwtMD1g2-uNdwRybq3r3-YmfRXlZvE540cN9jT-Nr5In3V4zYxhh76xlbnjFNP7/s1600/IMG_1720.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRVmcyxovHrzbrq8h5o31fbnQ_XeoWtHggyUWn1IpkTYhn1-9nXBsXREYZLGCqlfbo6YTF90zuSAJErFwtMD1g2-uNdwRybq3r3-YmfRXlZvE540cN9jT-Nr5In3V4zYxhh76xlbnjFNP7/s320/IMG_1720.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mausoléu <i>Ming</i></td></tr>
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O mausoléu é mais interessante pela imponência arquitetônica exterior do que pelo interior. Após entrar naquele túnel, segue-se uma rampa até alcançar o nível dos muros. Lá dentro há uma lojinha e alguma exposição de menor relevância.</div>
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<b><i>Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Mausoleum</i></b></div>
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Dr. <i>Sun Yat-Sen </i>nasceu em 1866 e morreu em 1925. Ele é conhecido como um dos pais da China moderna pela sua luta contra o governo imperial da dinastia <i>Qing</i>, que após derrubado em 1911 viu a fundação da República da China.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZzXK_l_VOdA/UGSMP6LpvbI/AAAAAAAACVo/VAOSBMJOReM/s1600/IMG_1730.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZzXK_l_VOdA/UGSMP6LpvbI/AAAAAAAACVo/VAOSBMJOReM/s320/IMG_1730.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Escadaria até o mausoléu</td></tr>
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O mausoléu ficou pronto em 1929, e foi construído após uma competição de <i>design </i>em que o custo total da proposta oferecida não poderia exceder 300.000 RMB. O mausoléu é acessível por uma escadaria em que se percorre mais de 450 m em cerca de 392 degraus. A República da China foi fundada por membros do partido <i>Kuomintang </i>que mais tarde viriam a ser expulsos para <i>Taiwan </i>pelos comunistas. Portanto, no teto da mausoléu, por mais estranho que isso tenha passado intacto durante a Revolução Cultural, o teto é pintado como a bandeira de <i>Taiwan</i>.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vista da escadaria a partir do mausoléu</td></tr>
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Se havia tudo isso de gente num dia de chuva, imagine se tivéssemos um dia de sol? De todos os lados os grupos de turistas chineses e seus guias - com alto-falantes e bandeiras - surgiam. Toda essa agitação não deve ser reduzida apenas a um <i>incômodo quando visitando a China</i> mas pensada como uma verdadeira experiência de se estar visitando a China, afinal, estamos falando do país mais populoso do mundo, certo?</div>
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<b><i>Wuliang Hall</i></b></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Foto do <i>Wuliang Hall</i></td></tr>
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Também conhecido como <i>Beamless Hall</i>, ou, pavilhão sem vigas, foi construído em 1381 e tem 22 m de comprimento por 53 m de largura. Em sua construção foram utilizados apenas tijolos do chão até o teto sem que fosse necessário nenhum prego ou viga. </div>
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<b><i>Linggu Pagoda</i></b></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Foto da <i>Linggu Pagoda</i></td></tr>
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A <i>Linggu Pagoda </i>foi construída em 1929 como memorial dos soldados mortos durante a <i>Guerra Expedicionária do Norte </i>travada entre 1926 e 1928 e cujo objetivo era unificar a China sob o domínio do <i>Kuomintang</i>. A <i>Pagoda </i>tem 9 andares e 60.5 m de altura. Pode-se subir até o último andar e ter uma vista - ainda que parcial devido às nuvens e chuva - muito interessante de boa parte do pé da <i>Purple Mountain</i>.</div>
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Pra encontrar mais facilmente a <i>Pagoda</i>, siga pelo interior do <i>Linggu Temple</i>, e continue andando pelo caminho do meio.</div>
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Antes de ir embora de <i>Nanjing </i>ainda passei parte do dia em um parque menor, próximo à área que eu estava hospedado. Porém tive dificuldades pra encontrar o nome desse parque na internet. De qualquer forma, quando fui comprar passagens de trem para ir pra <i>Suzhou</i>, dei sorte em encontrar uma mulher que falava inglês no balcão de venda. Pra facilitar minha vida então, comprei não só a passagem para <i>Suzhou</i> mas de lá para <i>Shanghai</i> também. </div>
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<i>Nanjing </i>foi uma experiência muito legal e revigorante. Recarreguei minhas energias para continuar na viagem. A próxima parada vai ser <a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/10/suzhou-e-seus-jardins.html"><i>"a capital dos jardins da China"</i>, <i>Suzhou</i></a>. E um detalhe, essa viagem agora será feito no trem-bala, a 240 km/h. Até lá! :)</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02152018193849879223noreply@blogger.com0Nanjing, Jiangsu, China32.060255 118.79687731.629638999999997 118.16516299999999 32.490871 119.428591tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4089077439641967020.post-29528683683987071552012-09-27T21:29:00.000+07:002012-10-04T05:14:41.802+07:00The Western Capital: Xi'An<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b>Previous post: </b><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/09/pingyao-under-rain.html">Pingyao under rain</a><br />
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<b><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/09/a-capital-do-oeste-xian.html">Versão em Português</a></b></div>
<b><br /></b><b>Intro</b><br />
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<i>Xi'An </i>it's a 3,000 year old city which saw 13 dynasties and 73 different emperors to rule over ancient China. And thus it won't take too long until the first time traveler to notice some similarities among <i>Xi'An </i>and <i>Beijing</i>. The historical part of the city was designed in a squared manner, protected by huge and well preserved walls. There are wide green boulevards, for no doubts some nice memories to a nice metropolis.</div>
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<a href="http://www.chinadiscovery.com/assets/images/tourmap/villages-9-650-500.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="246" src="http://www.chinadiscovery.com/assets/images/tourmap/villages-9-650-500.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Besides that, <i>Xi'An </i>represents the start (or the end) of the ancient <i>Silk Road </i>which for many many years was the only possible connection between Europe and Asia, until the Europeans started to "discover" the world in the 15th century. Therefore, <i>Xi'An </i>is different. May be due its accent, totally different from <i>Beijing</i>, or maybe it's the food and the arts, with a strong islamic influence. That mix and some other monuments around <i>Xi'An</i>, in my opinion, make it a real <i>must go </i>stop in China.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><i>Xi'An </i>Map</td></tr>
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<b><i>The Walls</i></b></div>
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I had just arrived from <i>Pingyao</i>, which was literally <i>under rain</i>, the sun came high in <i>Xi'An </i>and the visual forecast of good weather made me to delay any rest. As fast as I could I looked for my <i>host </i>in town, <i>Sheila</i>, who I left my stuff with, had a good breakfast and started another <i>'walking a lot' </i>day. The first place to visit was quite obvious, <i>The Walls of Xi'An</i>, the biggest urban wall of the world.</div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWr8rV8uC2mRgvU6HQbc9_N3OuJJbHL3SPdUXY_O9ySkL-OZWtmgu087QSb0mKrWsj3JhggFhoNKu3stSTykm8MWN8RvAsWQcuhxn_kPkQAbcbDqWdXey5K1_YJd51sr_kfo61GwSZCz7a/s1600/IMG_1476.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWr8rV8uC2mRgvU6HQbc9_N3OuJJbHL3SPdUXY_O9ySkL-OZWtmgu087QSb0mKrWsj3JhggFhoNKu3stSTykm8MWN8RvAsWQcuhxn_kPkQAbcbDqWdXey5K1_YJd51sr_kfo61GwSZCz7a/s320/IMG_1476.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">View from the Wall</td></tr>
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For 40 RMB (20 RMB if you're student) you can climb the wall and walk around it as much as you want. You can even rent a bicycle to make it faster and more exciting. Since I was due to my <i>low cost </i>scheme and it was quite early that day, I decided to walk almost half of the +13 km path.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"> <i>Xi'An </i>Avenue seen from the Wall</td></tr>
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I started my tour over the Wall through the Northern side and planned to finish it as I reached the directly opposite gate in the Southern side. The thing is that in the Southern side there are many gates, which makes you a little bit confused whether you have reached the right one or not. Before I get lost I asked for help from an "apparently, Chinese university student", who was walking in the same direction. Even though his English wasn't that good, we could comunicate and then we became friends during my stay in <i>Xi'An. Shao </i>was a Civil Engineering student and was born in <i>Chongqing</i>, Southwest China, this time on vacations in <i>Xi'An</i>. Many of the monuments/museums I'd like to visit were also on his list so we decided to explore it together.<br />
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<b><i>Forest of Steles</i></b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NqVkf3T8f7o/UGCmGN64eAI/AAAAAAAACOQ/p5j1IGUHVDU/s1600/IMG_1519.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NqVkf3T8f7o/UGCmGN64eAI/AAAAAAAACOQ/p5j1IGUHVDU/s200/IMG_1519.JPG" width="133" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Image of a Chinese symbol<br />
written in the stone</td></tr>
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The former version of what would be called as paper in ancient China were stones, in fact, whole blocks of it in which Chinese manuscripts. In <i>Xi'An</i>, especially for those who can understand Chinese, there's a huge museum with 2,300 samples since 7th century which present the Chinese classical texts and other historical aspects. The cost is 90 RMB/person, if I'm not wrong, and I'd recommend, again, only to those who can clearly understand Chinese or those who had done some previous research about the subject since the visit can get really boring if done in a superficial manner.<br />
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<b><i><br /></i></b><b><i><br /></i></b><b><i>Food</i></b><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Lunching w/ <i>Shao Xi'An </i><br />
style noodles and lots of spices</td></tr>
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With no doubts <i>Xi'An </i>has a very rich gastronomy. Hundreds of years of exchange between Islamic and Chinese culture have given birth to a wide sort of different dishes and combinations. I'd say that the best way to take advantage of that would be to avoid riskless options - and no taste - like KFC, McDonald's, etc., easily found at major avenues and take a chance at small stalls, alleys, and small restaurants in which, to get started, the communication will be a first challenge. The <i>look and point </i>method is by far effective and perfectly combines with the <i>calculator pricing </i>method. Thus you can taste local food even not knowing Chinese. Fortunately this task was even easier for me since <i>Shao </i>obviously could speak Chinese and so he did take care of our menu.<br />
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<b><i>Big Goose Pagoda</i></b><br />
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<tr><td><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x5cR85fSB8A/UGCtrn2njyI/AAAAAAAACQA/6GT3a0Cffoo/s1600/IMG_1544.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x5cR85fSB8A/UGCtrn2njyI/AAAAAAAACQA/6GT3a0Cffoo/s320/IMG_1544.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">View of the city from <i>Big Goose Pagoda</i></td></tr>
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For sure one of the most visited parts of <i>Xi'An </i>are the surroundings of the <i>Big Goose Pagoda</i>. Built in the year 652 it's one of the city symbols. Arround there are many temples and parks. There's a 50 RMB cost to get into the complex and more 40 RMB to climb the stairs up. Although it can be a tiring climb and you won't get to the top - it's being refurbished - it's really worth it. As many other places in China, <i>Xi'An </i>can be very beautiful from the top. A typical Chinese phenomenon it's the impressive number of buildings being erected in the horizon.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l_VFGbAKUEE/UGCrje0pQKI/AAAAAAAACP4/oD5C76bfrd4/s1600/IMG_1538.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l_VFGbAKUEE/UGCrje0pQKI/AAAAAAAACP4/oD5C76bfrd4/s200/IMG_1538.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">View of the <i>Big Goose Pagoda</i> from below</td></tr>
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<b><i>Muslim Quarter</i></b></div>
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This is the real charm of <i>Xi'An</i>, where suddenly the Middle-East finds China. A very busy street with tourists, hawkers, food stalls, etc., which starts just after the <i>Drum Tower</i>, in <i>Xi'An</i>'s center. Shops and more shops selling T-shirts, decoration stuff, dry fruits, foods I haven't found anywhere else in China and a marvelous 2 RMB/glass plum juice avaialable at every corner. Curiously I forgot to take pictures of that area, but certainly it's a <i>must see </i>for any tourist in town.</div>
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<b><i>The Great Mosque</i></b></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Porch with Arab writings<br />
at <i>The Great Mosque</i></td></tr>
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From the outside - and even for most of its inner part - this mosque smoothly and insinuatingly deceive you. After having a hard time to find it through <i>Muslim Quarter's </i>narrow street you may think that's just another Buddhist temple. Going through some courtyards, only at the end, then you'll finally find some Arab inscripts - yes, Arab - which reveal one of China's most important mosques. There's room for a 1,000 people praying in the last pavillion. The entrance tickets cost 25 RMB/person.</div>
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<b><i>Xi'An at night</i></b></div>
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As in other Chinese cities some monuments get really charming at night when they get special lightinh, thus it's worth to see and even wait in the streets until late to check this different scenario. </div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia5c-bMIHjo8vlFRiAwFaYTI_UCxlKvV6sbDDHIHY2zHCwaW4skJT1CJrHO6kdBhkzahb4mC4ZeyohD-0XLMIcZcSAqJmb9w0du3SVsTAVWIEHOvR3k3yUH7jw16FCUIDjgtllbjpkTX8y/s1600/IMG_1630.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia5c-bMIHjo8vlFRiAwFaYTI_UCxlKvV6sbDDHIHY2zHCwaW4skJT1CJrHO6kdBhkzahb4mC4ZeyohD-0XLMIcZcSAqJmb9w0du3SVsTAVWIEHOvR3k3yUH7jw16FCUIDjgtllbjpkTX8y/s320/IMG_1630.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><i>Drum Tower</i> picture</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2hAlUKKJwdA/UGDD239UA_I/AAAAAAAACRw/FyIBA1lqQts/s1600/IMG_1639.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2hAlUKKJwdA/UGDD239UA_I/AAAAAAAACRw/FyIBA1lqQts/s320/IMG_1639.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><i>Bell Tower</i> picture</td></tr>
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<b><i>***** Terracotta Warriors</i></b></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NEz5Lffml7c/UGDInGu-L_I/AAAAAAAACSk/C9cAWj9wFLQ/s1600/IMG_1595.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NEz5Lffml7c/UGDInGu-L_I/AAAAAAAACSk/C9cAWj9wFLQ/s200/IMG_1595.JPG" width="133" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;"><i>Pingmayo </i>seen from close</td></tr>
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This is ranked as one of the finest tourist attractions, not just about China, but from the whole world. Who has never heard about the Chinese Terracotta warriors, each one unique made, and burried together with the emperor? So famous attractions has also its negative aspects: i) very expensive (150 RMB/person, they do accept student IDs); ii) generates too high expectations; iii) in summer there's a herd of people who come from all over China and the world; iv) different from the The Great Wall which has thousands of kilometers with different levels of difficulty which naturally puts people away, the soldiers are all located in a very small area. The result it's that you may keep at your mind more of the heat and "canned sardines" feeling rather a humankind masterpiece.</div>
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The archeologic site it's a bit far from the city and the cheapest way to get there is by bus. At <i>Xi'An</i>'s train station right you'll find bus #6. There'll probably be some people shouting <i>"Pingmayo" </i>which means soldier/army and it's the popular way Chinese refer to this monument.</div>
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The most impressive pavillion is #1 and which is quite clear why. Its dimensions are huge and even though the soldiers are not that big and not easily seen at a distance there's a significant number of them. The other pavillions could be a little frustrating when compared to #1. Therefore, in a valuable tip, <i>Lonely Planet </i>recommends you to start from #3, then #2, and, finally, #1.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDurzz1I7VqTniCDrltQgG7p-Gk-0YkFcPasGq9SNdpC6PN3tZw2XolbW5o7JDB2FMR5rWiAUaeOOQQP17yvvnMvbkX9OzILjyKJ1yKDTV9yujoqAHKWNVWulhRG7zrYYLcp93drSrL-yf/s1600/IMG_1611.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDurzz1I7VqTniCDrltQgG7p-Gk-0YkFcPasGq9SNdpC6PN3tZw2XolbW5o7JDB2FMR5rWiAUaeOOQQP17yvvnMvbkX9OzILjyKJ1yKDTV9yujoqAHKWNVWulhRG7zrYYLcp93drSrL-yf/s320/IMG_1611.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Picture of Pavillion #1</td></tr>
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The sculptures represent soldiers and horses, in a very detailed level. These were made in 3 BC and found accidentally only in 1974. Putting all the archeologic pavillions together there are 8,000 soldiers, 130 carriages, 520 horses and 150 battle horses.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQczPlUcMOIbp5XJg3AzinPriRQ9zeVZTvc9dRbCgFmf7kSxRy5tmsUhJC5QtneXO7nZLh8wBqQwlkfHzXeZlSvUMraedVuc5bJ8A5KfUtoFkuD9B-MV2WS3D1065eF_FjYsoQQRUQ-xrD/s1600/IMG_1619.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQczPlUcMOIbp5XJg3AzinPriRQ9zeVZTvc9dRbCgFmf7kSxRy5tmsUhJC5QtneXO7nZLh8wBqQwlkfHzXeZlSvUMraedVuc5bJ8A5KfUtoFkuD9B-MV2WS3D1065eF_FjYsoQQRUQ-xrD/s320/IMG_1619.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Aligned soldiers</td></tr>
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Besides the unquestionable artistic value in place, one finding caught my attention for being ahead of its time. There were found many weapons and armor pieces in excellent state of conservation. Even after 2,500 years thse items were intact to corrosion because it had undergone chrome process. Such technology became available in the Western world only in the 18th century.<br />
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<b><i>My Couchsurfing host, Shirley</i></b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-goW0nPnDOuE/UGDSeq46eMI/AAAAAAAACTw/PNU7s0JCxlg/s1600/IMG_1640.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-goW0nPnDOuE/UGDSeq46eMI/AAAAAAAACTw/PNU7s0JCxlg/s200/IMG_1640.JPG" width="133" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;"><i>Shirley </i>and<br />
her pictures of Cambodia</td></tr>
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<i>Xi'An </i>was a especially difficult city to find a <i>host</i>. For its size it had just a few CS members and even from this small portion was getting difficult to get an answer. Then <i>Shirley </i>saw my request and without asking her she invited me to stay at ther apartment. We had a very nice interaction and she presented me to some local food. For coincidence she had already been to Cambodia some time before, which was her first international experience. I saw how important <i>Couchsurfers </i>are for her life. The answer is: A LOT! <i>Shirley </i>plans to travel the world and change her life. For that she's been hosting almost every week CSers from different countries. One of your basic conversations was introducing her to Brazil, our cultural aspects, natural attractions, etc. Good Luck <i>Shirley! </i>I hope you get your dreams realized! :)<br />
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I hope you liked to know a little bit more about <i>Xi'An</i>. Next stop will be in a totally different course, now heading East to the Chinese coast. Next stop: <i><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/09/the-southern-capital-nanjing.html">Nanjing!</a></i></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02152018193849879223noreply@blogger.com0Pingyao, Jinzhong, Shanxi, China37.189856 112.17626636.9874635 111.860409 37.3922485 112.49212299999999tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4089077439641967020.post-19088725665591641412012-09-25T04:19:00.002+07:002012-09-29T01:11:22.062+07:00A capital do Oeste: Xi'An<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b>Post anterior: </b><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/09/pingyao-debaixo-de-chuva.html">Pingyao debaixo de chuva</a><br />
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<b><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/09/the-western-capital-xian.html">English Version</a></b></div>
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<b>Intro</b><br />
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<i>Xi'An </i>é uma cidade com mais de 3.000 anos de idade em que 13 dinastias e 73 imperadores diferentes governaram a China antiga. E portanto não é à toa que o visitante de primeira viagem note algumas semelhanças arquitetônicas entre <i>Xi'An </i>e <i>Beijing</i>. A parte histórica da cidade é desenhada em forma quadrada, protegida por enormes e muito bem conservadas muralhas. Há avenidas largas, muito verde, e sem dúvida a lembrança de uma bela metrópole.</div>
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<a href="http://www.chinadiscovery.com/assets/images/tourmap/villages-9-650-500.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="246" src="http://www.chinadiscovery.com/assets/images/tourmap/villages-9-650-500.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Além disso, <i>Xi'An </i>representava o começo (ou o fim) da antiga <i>Rota da Seda </i>que por muitos e muitos anos foi a única conexão viável entre a Europa e a Ásia, até que fossem feitas as <i>Grandes Navegações</i>. Conseqüentemente <i>Xi'An </i>é diferente. Seja pelo sotaque, que é bem diferente de <i>Beijing</i>, seja pela comida e artes, há uma grande influência islâmica. Esse mix e alguns outros monumentos tornam <i>Xi'An</i>, na minha opinião, uma das melhores cidades para se visitar na China.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.travelchinaguide.com/images/map/shaanxi/xian-map-s.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="221" src="http://www.travelchinaguide.com/images/map/shaanxi/xian-map-s.gif" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mapa de <i>Xi'An</i></td></tr>
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<b><i>As Muralhas</i></b></div>
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Mal tinha chegado de <i>Pingyao</i>, que só chovia, o sol se apresentava em <i>Xi'An</i> e o prospecto de tempo bom me fez postergar qualquer descanso. Rapidamente encontrei minha <i>host </i>na cidade, <i>Sheila</i>, deixei minhas coisas, tomei um bom café-da-manhã, e comecei a bater pernas. O primeiro lugar que fui visitar foi um tanto óbvio, as <i>Muralhas de Xi'An</i>, a maior muralha urbana do mundo.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWr8rV8uC2mRgvU6HQbc9_N3OuJJbHL3SPdUXY_O9ySkL-OZWtmgu087QSb0mKrWsj3JhggFhoNKu3stSTykm8MWN8RvAsWQcuhxn_kPkQAbcbDqWdXey5K1_YJd51sr_kfo61GwSZCz7a/s1600/IMG_1476.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWr8rV8uC2mRgvU6HQbc9_N3OuJJbHL3SPdUXY_O9ySkL-OZWtmgu087QSb0mKrWsj3JhggFhoNKu3stSTykm8MWN8RvAsWQcuhxn_kPkQAbcbDqWdXey5K1_YJd51sr_kfo61GwSZCz7a/s320/IMG_1476.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vista da Muralha</td></tr>
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Por 40 RMB (20 RMB para estudantes) você pode subir a muralha e ficar andando nela o quanto quiser. Pode ainda alugar bicicletas pra deixar o trajeto mais rápido e emocionante. Como eu estava no esquema <i>low cost </i>e ainda era bem cedo, resolvi andar cerca de metade do trajeto de mais de 13 km a pé.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4DwJA4VrxpU/UF3J7piDSiI/AAAAAAAACNc/Msyen6hCgLI/s1600/IMG_1468.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4DwJA4VrxpU/UF3J7piDSiI/AAAAAAAACNc/Msyen6hCgLI/s320/IMG_1468.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Avenida de <i>Xi'An </i>vista a partir da Muralha</td></tr>
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Eu comecei a andar sobre a Muralha a partir do lado Norte e pretendia terminar no lado Sul. Acontece que no lado Sul há vários portões, que te deixam um pouco confuso se você achou a saída certa ou não. Antes que eu me perdesse porém resolvi perguntar pra um "aparentemente chinês universitário", que estava caminhando na mesma direção. Embora o inglês dele não fosse muito bom, conseguimos nos comunicar e ali fiz uma grande amizade durante a viagem. O <i>Shao </i>era estudante de engenharia civil e nasceu em <i>Chongqing</i>, sudoeste da China, dessa vez passando férias em <i>Xi'An</i>. Muitos dos monumentos/museus que eu gostaria de visitar também estavam na lista dele e então passamos a explorar a cidade juntos.<br />
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<b><i>Forest of Steles</i></b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NqVkf3T8f7o/UGCmGN64eAI/AAAAAAAACOQ/p5j1IGUHVDU/s1600/IMG_1519.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NqVkf3T8f7o/UGCmGN64eAI/AAAAAAAACOQ/p5j1IGUHVDU/s200/IMG_1519.JPG" width="133" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Imagem de um símbolo <br />
chinês inscrito em pedra</td></tr>
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O "papel" utilizado na China antiga eram as pedras, na verdade blocos inteiros em que eram impressos manualmente os símbolos chineses. Em <i>Xi'An</i>, especialmente para aqueles que entendem chinês, há um museu enorme com 2.300 exemplares desde o século 7 retratando os clássicos chineses e aspectos históricos. O custo é de 90 RMB por pessoa, se eu não estiver errado, e eu recomendaria, novamente, apenas para aqueles que entendem chinês ou que já tenham feito algum pré-estudo sobre o assunto pois a visita tende a se tornar entediante se feita de maneira superficial.<br />
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<b><i>Comida</i></b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ScV0TajsZG0/UGCo97KYcyI/AAAAAAAACPE/CsJtemQ7YQk/s1600/IMG_1531.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ScV0TajsZG0/UGCo97KYcyI/AAAAAAAACPE/CsJtemQ7YQk/s200/IMG_1531.JPG" width="133" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Almoço c/ o <i>Shao </i>com macarrão<br />
e temperos locais</td></tr>
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Sem dúvida <i>Xi'An </i>tem uma gastronomia riquíssima. Centenas de anos de contato entre cultura islâmica e chinesa deram origem a pratos e combinações inusitadas. Eu diria que a melhor forma de tirar proveito disso é evitar as opções sem risco - e sem gosto - como KFC, McDonald's, etc., facilmente encontradas nas avenidas principais e se arriscar pelas barraquinhas, ruelas e pequenos estabelecimentos em que, pra começar, a comunicação já é um desafio. O método <i>olhar e apontar </i>é de longe o mais eficaz e combina perfeitamente com <i>preço pela calculadora</i>. Ou seja, dá pra experimentar as comidas locais mesmo não sabendo chinês. Por sorte essa tarefa foi ainda mais fácil pra mim porque o <i>Shao </i>obviamente falava chinês então ele tomava conta da definição do nosso cardápio.<br />
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<b><i>Big Goose Pagoda</i></b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x5cR85fSB8A/UGCtrn2njyI/AAAAAAAACQA/6GT3a0Cffoo/s1600/IMG_1544.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-x5cR85fSB8A/UGCtrn2njyI/AAAAAAAACQA/6GT3a0Cffoo/s320/IMG_1544.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vista da cidade a partir da <i>Big Goose Pagoda</i></td></tr>
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Sem dúvida uma das áreas mais visitadas de <i>Xi'An</i> são os arredores da <i>Big Goose Pagoda</i>. Construída no ano de 652 é um dos símbolos da cidade. Em volta há uma série de templos e parques. Há um custo de 50 RMB para entrar no complexo e mais 40 RMB para subir as escadas do templo. Essa subida embora cansativa e que não chega ao último andar - está em reformas - com certeza vale a pena. <i>Xi'An </i>é uma cidade ainda mais interessante vista de cima. Um fenômeno tipicamente chinês é o número enorme de prédios sendo erguidos no horizonte.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l_VFGbAKUEE/UGCrje0pQKI/AAAAAAAACP4/oD5C76bfrd4/s1600/IMG_1538.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l_VFGbAKUEE/UGCrje0pQKI/AAAAAAAACP4/oD5C76bfrd4/s200/IMG_1538.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vista da <i>Big Goose Pagoda</i> de baixo</td></tr>
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<b><i>Muslim Quarter</i></b></div>
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Esse é o verdadeiro charme de <i>Xi'An</i>, onde de repente o Oriente Médio toma conta da China. Uma rua muito movimentada com turistas, vendedores, carrinhos de comida, etc., que começa logo atrás da <i>Drum Tower</i> no centro de <i>Xi'An. </i>Lojas e mais lojas vendendo camisetas, artigos de decoração, frutas secas, comidas que não encontrei em nenhum outro lugar da China e um sensacional suco de ameixa por apenas 2 RMB/copo. Curiosamente esqueci de tirar fotos dessa área, mas com certeza é uma parada obrigatória pra qualquer turista visitando a cidade.</div>
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<b><i>The Great Mosque</i></b></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-u3dwGH3UZQE/UGC4U8waG0I/AAAAAAAACQ0/acT1S9_lH5c/s1600/IMG_1582.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-u3dwGH3UZQE/UGC4U8waG0I/AAAAAAAACQ0/acT1S9_lH5c/s200/IMG_1582.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pórtico com dizeres em árabe<br />
na <i>Great Mosque</i></td></tr>
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Do lado de fora - e até boa parte do lado de dentro - essa mesquita te engana de forma suave e imperceptível. Depois de sofrer um pouquinho para achá-la nas ruazinhas do <i>Muslim Quarter</i>, você vai achar que acabou de entrar em mais um templo budista. Percorrendo alguns pátios, apenas no final, você encontrará finalmente dizeres escritos em árabe - isso mesmo, árabe - que revelam que ali está uma das mais importantes mesquitas da China. Há espaço para cerca de 1.000 pessoas rezarem no último pavilhão. A entrada custa cerca de 25 RMB/pessoa.</div>
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<b><i>Xi'An a noite</i></b></div>
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Como em outras cidades chinesas alguns monumentos ficam muito bonitos a noite com iluminação especial, portanto vale dar uma conferida e ficar até um pouco mais tarde nas ruas pra ver esse cenário diferente.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia5c-bMIHjo8vlFRiAwFaYTI_UCxlKvV6sbDDHIHY2zHCwaW4skJT1CJrHO6kdBhkzahb4mC4ZeyohD-0XLMIcZcSAqJmb9w0du3SVsTAVWIEHOvR3k3yUH7jw16FCUIDjgtllbjpkTX8y/s1600/IMG_1630.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia5c-bMIHjo8vlFRiAwFaYTI_UCxlKvV6sbDDHIHY2zHCwaW4skJT1CJrHO6kdBhkzahb4mC4ZeyohD-0XLMIcZcSAqJmb9w0du3SVsTAVWIEHOvR3k3yUH7jw16FCUIDjgtllbjpkTX8y/s320/IMG_1630.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Foto da <i>Drum Tower</i> - Torre dos Tambores</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2hAlUKKJwdA/UGDD239UA_I/AAAAAAAACRw/FyIBA1lqQts/s1600/IMG_1639.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2hAlUKKJwdA/UGDD239UA_I/AAAAAAAACRw/FyIBA1lqQts/s320/IMG_1639.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Foto da <i>Bell Tower</i> - Torre dos Sinos</td></tr>
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<b><i>***** Terracotta Warriors</i></b></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d_BFkSpuyyc/UGDJ0Fo13CI/AAAAAAAACS0/Q98h1dCVzfU/s1600/IMG_1612.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d_BFkSpuyyc/UGDJ0Fo13CI/AAAAAAAACS0/Q98h1dCVzfU/s320/IMG_1612.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Pingmayo </i>de perto</td></tr>
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Essa é cotada como uma das maiores atrações turísticas, não só da China, mas do mundo todo. Quem não ouviu falar do exército de soldados chineses feitos de barro, cada um características únicas, e enterrados junto do imperador? Uma atração tão famosa e cotada tem também seus lados negativos: i) custa caro (150 RMB/pessoa, aceitam carteirinha de estudante); ii) cria expectativas altas demais; iii) no verão atrai uma horda monstruosa de pessoas de todos os lugares da China e do mundo; iv) ao contrário da Muralha da China que possui milhares de quilômetros com diferentes graus de dificuldade e que naturalmente segmentam o público, os soldados estão todos localizados numa área muito pequena. O resultado final é que talvez você provavelmente guarde na memória o calor e sentimento de "sardinha enlatada" ao invés de ter visto, de longe, uma obra-prima da humanidade.</div>
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A área arqueológica fica um pouco longe da cidade e a forma mais econômica de chegar lá é através de ônibus. À direita da estação ferroviária de <i>Xi'An</i> você deve procurar pelo ônibus #6. Provavelmente haverão pessoas gritando <i>"Pingmayo" </i>que quer dizer soldado/exército e é a forma popular como os chineses se dirigem a esse monumento.</div>
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O pavilhão mais impressionante é o número 1 e é muito óbvio o porquê. Suas dimensões são enormes e ainda que os soldados não sejam tão grandes nem tão facilmente visíveis há um número muito grande deles dispostos em toda a área. Os demais pavilhões podem ser um pouco frustrantes quando comparados com o primeiro. Por isso, em uma dica um tanto valiosa, o <i>Lonely Planet </i>recomenda visitá-los começando pelo número 3, depois 2, e, por último, o número 1.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Foto do Pavilhão 1</td></tr>
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As esculturas representam soldados e cavalos, em todos os seus detalhes. Foram feitos no ano 3 AC e descobertos acidentalmente apenas em 1974. Somando-se os três pavilhões arqueológicos existem 8.000 soldados, 130 carruagens, 520 cavalos e 150 cavalos de batalha.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQczPlUcMOIbp5XJg3AzinPriRQ9zeVZTvc9dRbCgFmf7kSxRy5tmsUhJC5QtneXO7nZLh8wBqQwlkfHzXeZlSvUMraedVuc5bJ8A5KfUtoFkuD9B-MV2WS3D1065eF_FjYsoQQRUQ-xrD/s1600/IMG_1619.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQczPlUcMOIbp5XJg3AzinPriRQ9zeVZTvc9dRbCgFmf7kSxRy5tmsUhJC5QtneXO7nZLh8wBqQwlkfHzXeZlSvUMraedVuc5bJ8A5KfUtoFkuD9B-MV2WS3D1065eF_FjYsoQQRUQ-xrD/s320/IMG_1619.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Soldados alinhados</td></tr>
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Além do caráter artístico inquestionável do local, uma descoberta chamou a atenção por estar muito à frente de seu tempo. Foram encontrados vários tipos de armamentos e armaduras que chamaram a atenção dos arqueólogos pelo seu ótimo estado de conservação. Mesmo após 2.500 anos esses itens se mantiveram intactos à corrosão por terem sido cromados. Tal tecnologia só veio a ser conhecida e difundida no mundo Ocidental durante o século 18.<br />
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<b><i>Minha Couchsurfing host, Shirley</i></b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-goW0nPnDOuE/UGDSeq46eMI/AAAAAAAACTw/PNU7s0JCxlg/s1600/IMG_1640.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-goW0nPnDOuE/UGDSeq46eMI/AAAAAAAACTw/PNU7s0JCxlg/s200/IMG_1640.JPG" width="133" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Shirley </i>e suas <br />
fotos do Camboja</td></tr>
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<i>Xi'An </i>foi uma cidade que estava especialmente difícil achar um <i>host</i>. Para uma cidade desse porte havia pouquíssimos membros e desses poucos estava difícil conseguir uma resposta. Foi quando que a <i>Shirley</i> viu minha solicitação e pró-ativamente me convidou a ter minha estada no apartamento dela. Tivemos uma interação muito legal e ela me apresentou algumas comidas locais. Por coincidência ela já havia ido ao Camboja um tempo atrás, que foi sua primeira e única experiência internacional. Vi qual a importância que os <i>Couschsurfers </i>têm pra vida dela. A resposta é: Muita! A <i>Shirley </i>planeja viajar pelo mundo e mudar a vida dela. Pra isso ela vem hospedando quase que semanalmente CSers de vários países diferentes. Uma de nossas conversas foi basicamente apresentá-la o Brasil, nossas nuances culturais, atrativos naturais, etc. Boa sorte <i>Shirley! </i>Espero que você realize seus sonhos! :)<br />
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Espero que tenham gostado em conhecer um pouco mais sobre <i>Xi'An</i>. A viagem mudará totalmente de rumo em direção ao litoral leste da China. Próxima parada: <i><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/09/a-capital-do-sul-nanjing.html">Nanjing! </a></i></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02152018193849879223noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4089077439641967020.post-43375067007020644152012-09-06T08:52:00.001+07:002012-09-27T21:33:50.478+07:00Pingyao under rain<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b>Previous Post: <a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/09/to-countryside-datong.html">To the countryside, Datong</a></b><br />
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<b><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/09/pingyao-debaixo-de-chuva.html">Versão em Português</a></b></div>
<b>Intro</b></div>
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<i>Pingyao </i>is located around 8h Southwest from <i>Datong</i>, I'd guess 400-500 km. Different from the other cities I visisted we would be talking about millions of people, <i>Pingyao </i>was kept small and its popullation in the historical part is around 50,000, without difficulties to find tourist attractions or services aimed towards tourists. Thus it's a touristically relevant place even though I imagine that the majority of the tourist packages would get restricted to Chinese big cities.<br />
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<a href="http://lomejorestaporllegar.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/mapa_china_trazas.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="257" src="http://lomejorestaporllegar.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/mapa_china_trazas.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>Pingyao </i>is accounted as one of the most preserved historical cities in the world being more than 2,500 years old and therefore listed as an UNESCO heritage place. Besides that, its famous protection walls are also in good state. <i>Pingyao </i>was the Chinese financial center for most part of history however getting into collapse after 1914 due to modern banking competition. Anyway, many structures, houses, courtyards, etc., still reflect families and business relative importance during that time.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="http://www.travelchinaguide.com/images/photogallery/2009/0717145741.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://www.travelchinaguide.com/images/photogallery/2009/0717145741.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><i>Pingyao's </i>map</td></tr>
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<b>Around <i>Pingyao</i></b></div>
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I arrived there by 6 am, coming by train, from <i>Datong</i>. I almost didn't sleep during the night, freezing in the A/C, and thus I was very sleepy. My first challenge was to find my hostel, <i><a href="http://www.hostelbookers.com/hostels/china/pingyao/9801/">Yamen Hostel</a></i>, in historical downtown and which cost me 35 RMB/night. When I got there however there was a tour starting at 8 am to visit some touristic places in the region. For 80 RMB for the transportation I joined.</div>
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It's worth saying that the 2 days I decided to spend in the city were extremely rainy, making it difficult to go around. In the van I met some Chinese university students and a Spanish couple. It was funny that me and the Spaniards were talking about some funny things that happened with us in China thinking that nobody could understand us untill one of the Chinese girls started to laugh. For the whole tour they helped us every time spoken Chinese was required.</div>
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<b><i>Wang Family Compound</i></b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTKQzbLahqpdBRmXleUD9W30MyYKQ-zrDjF7D605I1DTgkKXgsPJ40Mfu3zhDfuIDiliUHYsXLdml1o9l3BYBg-XslKs767GLtKyFfKIoa2vlnfM9TDp4ODzC-Mt6AfjYFjC0H8GD_xJKx/s1600/IMG_1341.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTKQzbLahqpdBRmXleUD9W30MyYKQ-zrDjF7D605I1DTgkKXgsPJ40Mfu3zhDfuIDiliUHYsXLdml1o9l3BYBg-XslKs767GLtKyFfKIoa2vlnfM9TDp4ODzC-Mt6AfjYFjC0H8GD_xJKx/s200/IMG_1341.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
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<i>Wang </i>family complex started to be built around 1600 and going through many extensions represents the success of this family in industries going from farming to commerce and government officials. Today the complex looks like a castle with more than 1,000 room and 54 courtyards. However, it's the kind of place that requires some preparation before getting in. It's very easy to get lost inside and after some 3 courtyards things may looke like "the same".</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XguFRNv1VfA/UEUlmofroZI/AAAAAAAACJ4/xS_9RVVv60I/s1600/IMG_1361.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XguFRNv1VfA/UEUlmofroZI/AAAAAAAACJ4/xS_9RVVv60I/s200/IMG_1361.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">The view to the roofs</td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-40wGnEnj0pk/UEUlVBA9HJI/AAAAAAAACJw/CF4bLnPH-IM/s1600/IMG_1351.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-40wGnEnj0pk/UEUlVBA9HJI/AAAAAAAACJw/CF4bLnPH-IM/s200/IMG_1351.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">One of the courtyards</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Complex faced from the front side</td></tr>
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Something that may be interesting to mention, the worse toilets I EVER SEEN in my whole life were in this part of China. Therefore, plan yourself ahead to avoid visiting it too much. At some places the toilet was basically a wooden made base with an unregular hole inside where everything gets mixed (and stays), lots of flies and other insects.</div>
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<b><i>Zhang Bi Old Castle</i></b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis0k9KpeEcUShLD8zaBeFtn8OknpEHWeLAKdGbqvQTKJXPIPoYbUeasutf3BXtoLvQhT2m3BFtk5X-3kTeCstH4UgW09-ZJ79RC42PmoW2nRs5qrA55eDo5XG8ql90MVw9zCsiVaiSrPyi/s1600/IMG_1373.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis0k9KpeEcUShLD8zaBeFtn8OknpEHWeLAKdGbqvQTKJXPIPoYbUeasutf3BXtoLvQhT2m3BFtk5X-3kTeCstH4UgW09-ZJ79RC42PmoW2nRs5qrA55eDo5XG8ql90MVw9zCsiVaiSrPyi/s200/IMG_1373.JPG" width="133" /></a><br />
This castle itself it's not a great attraction but its wide complex system of tunnel reaching almost 1.5 km in 3 levels that were used for refugees during Imperial China and Civil War time. It looks like claustrophobic but you shouldn't worry about because the tunnels are well lit and the paths are signed. The temperature drops significantly as you walk in.</div>
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At that time of the day it rained <i>a lot! </i>Around the castle there were lots of water flowing down and since the paths were made of dirt, it got really muddy.</div>
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<b><i>Shuanglin Temple</i></b></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n3ZOMxtaHKM/UEUsqu8TWVI/AAAAAAAACLM/_WcNfXQ6nkc/s1600/IMG_13761.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n3ZOMxtaHKM/UEUsqu8TWVI/AAAAAAAACLM/_WcNfXQ6nkc/s200/IMG_13761.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
This was one of the most different Buddhist temples I ever seen - maybe the picture states that. Its construction comes back 1,500 years ago and now offers a collection of 2,000 sculptures of warriors, gods, Buddhads, etc. The color of the statues was noticeable but unfortunately most of it are protected by thick iron bars that did not allow good pictures.</div>
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<b><i>Pingyao</i>, in fact</b></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lunZ50wr6Dw/UEUuPbRx78I/AAAAAAAACLU/SrJMgwbL2HU/s1600/IMG_14001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lunZ50wr6Dw/UEUuPbRx78I/AAAAAAAACLU/SrJMgwbL2HU/s200/IMG_14001.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">One of <i>Pingyao's </i>major streets and<br />
the commerce tower</td></tr>
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The most traditional way to visit <i>Pingyao</i> would probably be to pay the 120 RMB general 3-day entrance fee that includes many historical sights, museums and the walls. I would have done that if I haven't had just 1 day left to know the city, it didn't cost that amount and it wasn't raining and, especially, I wasn't fed up with museums. I didn't expect to be that fast but I got <i>"museumsick" </i>pretty fast in China.<br />
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Although a little bit later, I met <i>David </i>and <i>Vinciane </i>again in the next morning. They would spend a whole day in <i>Pingyao </i>and so we decided to explore it together. Since the city itself is a big openned museum we decided to walk around the streets, try some food, etc.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-I3u2l3Wjb0A/UEUupPmrV0I/AAAAAAAACLc/b_hacD5acrk/s1600/IMG_14111.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-I3u2l3Wjb0A/UEUupPmrV0I/AAAAAAAACLc/b_hacD5acrk/s200/IMG_14111.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MyY7eC1ayxM/UEYYX_WKZfI/AAAAAAAACMY/A_IftDcQb8M/s1600/IMG_14121.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MyY7eC1ayxM/UEYYX_WKZfI/AAAAAAAACMY/A_IftDcQb8M/s200/IMG_14121.jpg" width="133" /></a><br />
One of the coolest places to visit (in my opinion) and it costs only 5 RMB/person is the tower of commerce, which is in one of <i>Pingyao's </i>main streets. It's almost a cinematographic tour since, everywhere you look at, you'll be looking at a China of hundreds of years ago. One of the examples, it's the guarding tower in the wall at the end of the street and in the right side, the old traditional roofs.<br />
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We kept walking around and tried to climb the walls, however to do that we would have to buy the mutiple 3-day ticket and since we had just some spare hours to spend we decided that it wasn't worth it. We ended up trying a very good local restaurant which I can't remember the name and treated ourselves with some Chinese snacks and <i>Tsingtao!</i></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><i>David, Vinciane </i>and me</td></tr>
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Next post is going to be about <i><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/09/the-western-capital-xian.html">Xi'An</a></i>, a former capital and the first point of contact between China and the West.</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02152018193849879223noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4089077439641967020.post-49440013866866296482012-09-04T22:21:00.001+07:002012-10-04T05:15:12.991+07:00Pingyao debaixo de chuva<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b>Post anterior: <a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/08/em-direcao-ao-interior-datong.html">Em direção ao interior, Datong</a></b><br />
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<b><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/09/pingyao-under-rain.html">English Version</a></b></div>
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<b>Introdução</b></div>
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<i>Pingyao </i>fica a 8h de trem a sudoeste de <i>Datong</i>, chutaria uns 400-500 km no total. Diferentemente das outras cidades em que falávamos na casa dos milhões, <i>Pingyao </i>se conservou pequena e sua população na parte histórica da cidade está na casa dos 50.000 habitantes, sem que haja prejuízo na oferta de serviços e atrativos turísticos. Ou seja, já um lugar relevante turisticamente embora a maioria dos pacotes turísticos ainda vá ficar restrita às grandes cidades da China.<br />
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<i>Pingyao </i>é considerada uma das cidades históricas mais bem preservadas do mundo com mais de 2.500 anos e por isso é listada como patrimônio cultural da humanidade pela UNESCO. Além disso, são famosas as muralhas que cercam a cidade e que também se encontram em ótimo estado de conservação. <i>Pingyao </i>foi o centro financeiro da China durante boa parte da história entrando em colapso a partir de 1914 com o surgimento dos bancos modernos. De qualquer forma, inúmeras estruturas, casas, pátios, etc., ainda refletem a importância e imponência das famílias e negócios que enriqueceram nesse período.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.travelchinaguide.com/images/photogallery/2009/0717145741.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://www.travelchinaguide.com/images/photogallery/2009/0717145741.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mapa de <i>Pingyao</i></td></tr>
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<b>Em volta de <i>Pingyao</i></b></div>
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Cheguei à cidade por volta de 6h da manhã, de trem, vindo de <i>Datong</i>. A noite tinha sido bem mal dormida, quase congelando no ar-condicionado, e portanto estava muito cansado. O primeiro desafio foi encontrar o meu hostel, <i><a href="http://www.hostelbookers.com/hostels/china/pingyao/9801/">Yamen Hostel</a></i>, no centro da cidade histórica e que custou cerca de 35 RMB por noite. Logo que cheguei porém estavam oferecendo um tour partindo às 8h para visitar alguns lugares turísticos da região. Por 80 RMB pelo transporte, pareceu uma boa e fui junto.</div>
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Vale dizer que os 2 dias que eu resolvi ficar na cidade foram <i>extremamente</i> chuvosos, realmente dificultando os passeios. Na van conheci algumas estudantes universitárias chinesas e um casal de catalães. Foi engraçado como eu e os catalães estávamos comentando algumas coisas sobre a China, achando que ninguém alí estava nos entendendo até que as meninas começaram a dar risada. Por todo o tour elas passaram a nos ajudar na hora em que o chinês era necessário.</div>
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<b><i>Wang Family Compound</i></b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTKQzbLahqpdBRmXleUD9W30MyYKQ-zrDjF7D605I1DTgkKXgsPJ40Mfu3zhDfuIDiliUHYsXLdml1o9l3BYBg-XslKs767GLtKyFfKIoa2vlnfM9TDp4ODzC-Mt6AfjYFjC0H8GD_xJKx/s1600/IMG_1341.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTKQzbLahqpdBRmXleUD9W30MyYKQ-zrDjF7D605I1DTgkKXgsPJ40Mfu3zhDfuIDiliUHYsXLdml1o9l3BYBg-XslKs767GLtKyFfKIoa2vlnfM9TDp4ODzC-Mt6AfjYFjC0H8GD_xJKx/s200/IMG_1341.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
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O complexo da família <i>Wang </i>começou a ser construído por volta de 1600 e através de inúmeras ampliações representou o apogeu dessa família em áreas desde administração de fazendas até comércio e oficiais do governo. Hoje o complexo é quase um castelo com mais de 1.000 quartos e 54 pátios. No entanto, é o tipo de lugar que pede um estudo prévio antes. É extremamente fácil se perder lá dentro e após uns 3 pátios, todos parecem "a mesma coisa".<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vista dos telhados</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-40wGnEnj0pk/UEUlVBA9HJI/AAAAAAAACJw/CF4bLnPH-IM/s1600/IMG_1351.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-40wGnEnj0pk/UEUlVBA9HJI/AAAAAAAACJw/CF4bLnPH-IM/s200/IMG_1351.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vista de um dos pátios</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sFoGTJ7pjcE/UEUmoqf2I_I/AAAAAAAACKI/qou8s2HaGCY/s1600/IMG_13651.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sFoGTJ7pjcE/UEUmoqf2I_I/AAAAAAAACKI/qou8s2HaGCY/s320/IMG_13651.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Complexo visto pela frente</td></tr>
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Algo que talvez valha a pena ser comentado, os banheiros em piores estados que eu já vi na vida foram nessa região da China. Portanto, planeje-se para não precisar vistá-lo com muita freqüência. Em alguns lugares se resumia basicamente a um suporte de madeira com um buraco no meio, onde tudo se mistura (e fica), cheio de moscas e outros insetos.</div>
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<b><i>Zhang Bi Old Castle</i></b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis0k9KpeEcUShLD8zaBeFtn8OknpEHWeLAKdGbqvQTKJXPIPoYbUeasutf3BXtoLvQhT2m3BFtk5X-3kTeCstH4UgW09-ZJ79RC42PmoW2nRs5qrA55eDo5XG8ql90MVw9zCsiVaiSrPyi/s1600/IMG_1373.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis0k9KpeEcUShLD8zaBeFtn8OknpEHWeLAKdGbqvQTKJXPIPoYbUeasutf3BXtoLvQhT2m3BFtk5X-3kTeCstH4UgW09-ZJ79RC42PmoW2nRs5qrA55eDo5XG8ql90MVw9zCsiVaiSrPyi/s200/IMG_1373.JPG" width="133" /></a>Esse castelo em si não é um grande atrativo mas sim o seu complexo de túneis, de cerca de 1,5 km, dispostos em três níveis e que serviam como refúgio durante pequenas guerras durante a China Imperial e também durante os períodos de guerra civil. Parece um pouco claustrofóbico a princípio mas não há que se preocupar já que os túneis são bem iluminados e os caminhos também estão sinalizados. A temperatura diminui sensivelmente conforme você vai descendo.</div>
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À essa hora do dia chovia <i>muito</i>! Em volta do castelo havia umas enxurradas enormes e como os caminhos eram de terra, tudo virou um lamaçal sem fim. </div>
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<b><i>Shuanglin Temple</i></b></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n3ZOMxtaHKM/UEUsqu8TWVI/AAAAAAAACLM/_WcNfXQ6nkc/s1600/IMG_13761.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n3ZOMxtaHKM/UEUsqu8TWVI/AAAAAAAACLM/_WcNfXQ6nkc/s200/IMG_13761.jpg" width="200" /></a>Esse foi um dos templos budistas mais diferentes que já vi - talvez a foto já deixe isso claro. Sua construção data de mais de 1.500 anos atrás e o acervo reúne uma coleção de 2.000 esculturas de guerreiros, deuses, Buda, etc. O colorido das imagens era muito notável e infelizmente muitas delas eram protegidas por grossas barras de metal que inviabilizavam fotos melhores. </div>
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<b>Pingyao, de fato</b></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lunZ50wr6Dw/UEUuPbRx78I/AAAAAAAACLU/SrJMgwbL2HU/s1600/IMG_14001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lunZ50wr6Dw/UEUuPbRx78I/AAAAAAAACLU/SrJMgwbL2HU/s200/IMG_14001.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Uma das principais ruas de <i>Pingyao </i>e a torre do comércio</td></tr>
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O jeito mais tradicional de visitar <i>Pingyao </i>talvez fosse pagar os 120 RMB de uma entrada múltipla para 3 dias que inclui algumas dezenas de lugares históricos, museus e a muralha. Eu teria feito isso se, não tivesse apenas 1 dia restante para conhecer o interior da cidade, não custasse os 120 RMB, não estivesse chovendo sem parar o tempo todo e, principalmente, eu já estivesse um pouco de saco cheio de visitar museus. Eu esperava que não, mas acabei ficando <i>"museumsick" </i>meio rápido na China.<br />
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Embora um pouco atrasado em relação à expectativa inicial, acabei me reencontrando com o <i>David</i> e a <i>Vinciane </i>logo no outro dia pela manhã. Eles iam passar apenas um dia inteiro em <i>Pingyao </i>e então resolvemos explorar a cidade juntos. Como a própria cidade é um grande museu a céu aberto optamos por ficar passeando pelas pequenas ruas, testar alguns restaurantes, etc.
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-I3u2l3Wjb0A/UEUupPmrV0I/AAAAAAAACLc/b_hacD5acrk/s1600/IMG_14111.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-I3u2l3Wjb0A/UEUupPmrV0I/AAAAAAAACLc/b_hacD5acrk/s200/IMG_14111.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MyY7eC1ayxM/UEYYX_WKZfI/AAAAAAAACMY/A_IftDcQb8M/s1600/IMG_14121.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MyY7eC1ayxM/UEYYX_WKZfI/AAAAAAAACMY/A_IftDcQb8M/s200/IMG_14121.jpg" width="133" /></a>Um dos lugares mais legais pra se visitar (na minha opinião) em <i>Pingyao</i> e que custa apenas 5 RMB/pessoa é a torre do comércio, que fica em uma das principais ruas da cidade. É quase um passeio cinematográfico pois, de todos os lados a vista é de uma China de centenas de anos atrás. Um dos exemplos disso, é a torre de guarda da muralha ao final da rua protegendo os portões da cidade e do lado direito os telhados tradicionais.<br />
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Ainda rodamos mais um tanto em volta da cidade e tentamos subir às muralhas, porém pra poder fazer isso era necessário adquirir o ingresso múltiplo e como tínhamos apenas mais algumas horas até o final do dia realmente não valeria a pena. Acabamos encontrando um restaurante, que não lembro o nome, mas aparentemente muito bem cotado pelos visitantes, e testamos alguns petiscos chineses com <i>Tsingtao.</i></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-j59k3axQmDA/UEUu8DSdaNI/AAAAAAAACLk/rJdTnQ6CKwg/s1600/IMG_1447.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-j59k3axQmDA/UEUu8DSdaNI/AAAAAAAACLk/rJdTnQ6CKwg/s320/IMG_1447.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>David, Vinciane </i>e eu</td></tr>
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O próximo post será sobre <i><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/09/a-capital-do-oeste-xian.html">Xi'An</a></i>, uma antiga capital chinesa e o primeiro ponto de contato entre a China e o Ocidente.</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02152018193849879223noreply@blogger.com0Pingyao, Jinzhong, Shanxi, China37.189856 112.17626636.9874635 111.860409 37.3922485 112.49212299999999tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4089077439641967020.post-41402099591978289672012-09-01T20:00:00.002+07:002012-10-04T05:17:07.676+07:00To the countryside, Datong<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b>Previous Post: <a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/08/the-great-wall-of-china.html">The Great Wall of China</a></b><br />
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<b><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/08/em-direcao-ao-interior-datong.html">Portuguese Version</a></b></div>
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<i>Datong </i>is a city that will be present in some more adventurous guys itinerary. Thus, if you're looking just for relaxation, maybe it's not your best best. Anyway, what brought me there was not the city itself but two UNESCO heritage sites that can be visited in a single day. Since I couldn't take the night train from <i>Beijing</i>, I had to spend a night there... and then the adventure began.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/47/China_Shanxi_Datong.svg/250px-China_Shanxi_Datong.svg.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/47/China_Shanxi_Datong.svg/250px-China_Shanxi_Datong.svg.png" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><i>Datong's </i>map location</td></tr>
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<i>Datong </i>is 348 km West of <i>Beijing</i> and it's a "smaller" city, however with more than 3 million people. This amount would be impressive anywhere else in the world besides China, and that brings a lot of implications. There are not so many people willing to travel through this area, therefore just a few foreign tourists, not so much services available, etc. Besides, it's a city that basically lives from coal mining, China's main source of electric power. In summary, it's kind of an ugly city, but they're trying to improve it. The most central and historical area is being restored and a fortress wall replica is being built so the tourist potential can be improved.</div>
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<b>Challenges in <i>Datong</i></b></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; text-align: left;">Still in <i>Beijing </i>I started to face my first problem. I needed a <i>bed </i>for a low price for just a single night <i>Datong</i>. The place appointed by <i>Lonely Planet </i>didn't exist anymore. In the internet I could find places only +200 RMB, not suitable to my budget. So, I found at </span><i><a href="http://wikitravel.org/en/Datong">Wikitravel</a> </i>an article about the city and there this email: <a href="mailto:1161189938@qq.com" style="font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 19.200000762939453px; text-align: left;">1161189938@qq.com</a>, in which I could book my bed in a recently opened hostel. I still had some issues to solve. After getting to <i>Datong </i>I had to buy my night train tickets to my next destination, <i>Pingyao. </i>At <i>Datong's </i>station I couldn't find any counter that could sell tickets in English. I took my iPad and tried to show something to the teller, translate some words to Chinese but no result. So, miraculously, some students who could speak English came up and helped me. HOWEVER, there was a final issue, there were no remaining seats available in the train, and, in that case, I would have to stand, around 8h, until next morning. Well, I had to face it or put my whole travel schedule on risk and I decided to move on. Then, I tried to take a taxi to my hostel. Nobody could speak English to me and they didn't want to use the taximeter. They tried to charge me 50 RMB at first, but after <i>a lot </i>of bargaining I could lower it to 15 RMB. The fair price, some people told me later, was 12 RMB. AND, STILL, I didn't have everything solved. So I could visit two monuments in the next day in order to catch the night train later I needed to find a group tour, at an affordable price, designed for that. I could book my tour at <a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1442181194" style="text-align: left;">CITS</a>'s local office in <i>Datong</i>, for 100 RMB, just the transportation.</div>
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<span style="background-color: white; text-align: left;"><b>Then, the tour...!</b></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; text-align: left;">After this hard time securing accommodation, train, tour, yeah, I finally got it to my final purpose, to visit the region. </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; text-align: left;">In the morning while I was waiting for the tour I had the chance to meet a wonderful couple! </span><i style="text-align: left;">David</i><span style="background-color: white; text-align: left;"> and </span><i style="text-align: left;">Vinciane</i><span style="background-color: white; text-align: left;">, Belgian teachers who teach Dutch, love to travel and to talk. From </span><i style="text-align: left;">Datong </i><span style="background-color: white; text-align: left;">to </span><i style="text-align: left;">Pingyao </i><span style="background-color: white; text-align: left;">and then down to </span><i style="text-align: left;">Xi'An </i><span style="background-color: white; text-align: left;">we met many times again and kind of traveled together, a rice, and certainly, funny experience!</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; text-align: left;">Nosso tour se juntou próximo à estação de trem de <i>Datong</i> e partimos em direção às <i>Cavernas (Grottoes) de Yungang</i>.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; text-align: left;">Our group got together next to <i>Datong's </i>train station and then we departed to <i>Yungang Grottoes</i>.</span></div>
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<i><b>Yungang Grottoes</b></i></div>
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<tr><td><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PztHHQm61BM/UD7Cddzx71I/AAAAAAAACHw/Ol88w1GXxa0/s1600/IMG_1178.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PztHHQm61BM/UD7Cddzx71I/AAAAAAAACHw/Ol88w1GXxa0/s320/IMG_1178.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><i>Yungang Grottoes entrance</i></td></tr>
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These caves are located 16 km Southwest of <i>Datong</i>, were built between centuries 5th and 6th and combine a total number of 252 caves (but just a few of it can be visited) and 51,000 Buddha's statues and statuettes.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg50vWsGS8jX1YBIeCMxBhdvw0hn0tG1dfxWLt_RnAgwf8sFhWAV68TLF16WE7_KxZDEaZJ5FQdGCFMKUoWuyzg3BO8BlkIHa4AA2wtS2VK2z1d07ShqSzw1VXV-dDSf-zSSYd3lkV3ILaz/s1600/IMG_1212.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg50vWsGS8jX1YBIeCMxBhdvw0hn0tG1dfxWLt_RnAgwf8sFhWAV68TLF16WE7_KxZDEaZJ5FQdGCFMKUoWuyzg3BO8BlkIHa4AA2wtS2VK2z1d07ShqSzw1VXV-dDSf-zSSYd3lkV3ILaz/s320/IMG_1212.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5nm232B26bM/UD7Db9b4baI/AAAAAAAACII/NMYrMmEkwwI/s1600/IMG_1248.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5nm232B26bM/UD7Db9b4baI/AAAAAAAACII/NMYrMmEkwwI/s200/IMG_1248.JPG" width="133" /></a>The caves are very old and thus reflect an ancient moment in Chinese history. That is quite evident while checking the Buddha construction style. That style is much more closer to what I've seen in Southeast Asia before in Myanmar with human faces and shapes rather than Chinese common Buddha presentation of the fat and "rounded" Buddha.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8bMp_Eki3Z4/UD7F3QmD2PI/AAAAAAAACIQ/AyXuanEPQW4/s1600/IMG_1231.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8bMp_Eki3Z4/UD7F3QmD2PI/AAAAAAAACIQ/AyXuanEPQW4/s200/IMG_1231.JPG" width="200" /></a>Some caves had huge Buddha statues, more than 15 m high, others had just a big number of small ones sculptured in the walls. Cave #5, with a wooden protected entrance, it's a real treasure. It's forbidden to take pictures and even if you do the impression won't be as real. I would compare it to some nice churches we have in <i>Ouro Preto </i>area in Brazil, with so many details, sculptures and colors in the ceiling.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">One of the main statues<br />
at <i>Yungang Grottoes</i></td></tr>
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The entrance tickets to the caves are quite expensive, 150 RMB per person. I was lucky to find out that my University ID could be accepted (even though it was written in Portuguese) and they applied a 50% discount. Almost all touristic places in China can grant you a student discount if you carry a student ID with photo.<br />
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<b><i>Hanging Monasteries</i></b></div>
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If <i>Yungang Caves </i>are at one direction of <i>Datong</i>, the <i>Hanging Monasteries</i> are at the opposite side. Therefore it's far and can be expensive to hire a taxi to take you around. The Monasteries were built more than 1,500 years ago in the edge of the cliffs in order to be protected from wind, rain and flood.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Hanging Monasteries seen from the entrance</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcxJcrpOt8-ug9tKwXd-zEE_1lXTX9Nm1qtwLHVS1PYKiShe4fQKf5f-pCU2xlI2n4z-shQLDTsDgpReMZ8MyLtg-Yyi7YzN7tL8VRdkf4KQjGM3EBsQFbXGdBvRWtTFB0Cu6NI7MpOxFH/s1600/IMG_1319.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcxJcrpOt8-ug9tKwXd-zEE_1lXTX9Nm1qtwLHVS1PYKiShe4fQKf5f-pCU2xlI2n4z-shQLDTsDgpReMZ8MyLtg-Yyi7YzN7tL8VRdkf4KQjGM3EBsQFbXGdBvRWtTFB0Cu6NI7MpOxFH/s200/IMG_1319.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
The Monasteries are really hanged up in the heights, and, in fact, are quite small. The paths are very narrow and protection fences are low. I don't think anyone would accidentally fall but you feel a little bit anxious about the structure stability. The wooden made part it's partially standing at very thin wood piles and part attached to the rock.</div>
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The cost to visit the Monasteries is 150 RMB. But, in this case I think it makes sense since it's a very fragile structure and a little bit dangerous so the entrance admission price works as a visitor number control.<br />
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<b><i>The train</i></b><br />
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Here you can see a picture of <i>David </i>and <i>Vinciane</i> while we ate delicious <i>dumplings </i>and drank some <i>Tsingtao </i>(Chinese beer) waiting for our night train to <i>Pingyao</i>. We did some walking tour around <i>Datong's </i>central area and didn't get so impressed. It really ressambles to movie pictured communist cities, gray, squared and poorly maintained buildings. The efforts to change the main economic activity are welcome.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><i>Vinciane </i>and <i>David</i></td></tr>
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After we had dinner we waited until dark, and I still had a problem. I wouldn't have where to sit in the train, 9h stainding or just sitting in the floor with other people. Then while we were at the waiting hall, some students got close to us and started to practice English. They were very nice and we let the conversation going on. When I explained about my 'standing issue' one of them said he would help me to find a seat and I should always follow him. That's what I did. Well, at the time we would catch the train, <i>David </i>and <i>Vinciane </i>were denied to board. Their tickets was wrongly booked to the next day and so they had to spend an extra night in <i>Datong</i>. So I was taking the train alone with my recently met Chinese friends.</div>
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<b><i>It's worth reading!</i></b></div>
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We got to the wagon and there were no seats available so I realized I would have to stand anyway. However, my new friend said <i>"You sit in my seat and I will stand". </i>That was an absurd for me, he had met me just 1-hour ago and I replied that he couldn't do that. Then he replied me back <i>"It's my gift for you"</i>. Insisting, I ended up accepting his proposal and later everyone could sit. This was one of those moments were<i> preconceptions are destroyed. </i>My experience in Southeast Asia so far would classify Chinese, except for <i>Zhengyu </i>and <i>Eric</i>, as aggressive unpolite people. Well, here's an example that started to dismistify this idea. In my whole trip in China I was <i>very</i> well treated, welcomed and offered critical favors so I could accomplish my plans. With these experiences one can renew its hope in people being good, without interests, no scams, only for the sake of helping other people, even when completely strange to each other. Think...<br />
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<b>Next post, <a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/09/pingyao-under-rain.html">Pingyao under rain</a></b></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02152018193849879223noreply@blogger.com0Datong, Shanxi, China40.076816 113.30012639.9796165 113.14219750000001 40.1740155 113.4580545tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4089077439641967020.post-10147052623567829802012-08-30T19:40:00.001+07:002012-10-04T05:17:36.202+07:00Em direção ao interior, Datong<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b>Post anterior: <a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/08/a-grande-muralha-da-china.html">A Grande Muralha da China</a></b><br />
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<b><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/09/to-countryside-datong.html">English Version</a></b></div>
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<b>Introdução</b></div>
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<i>Datong </i>é uma cidade que já entra no roteiro dos mais aventureiros. Ou seja, para quem está querendo uma viagem mais <i>sussa</i>, talvez não seja a melhor aposta. Enfim, o que me fez ir até lá não foi a cidade em si mas duas áreas que foram declaradas como patrimônio cultural pela UNESCO que podem ser visitadas em 1 único dia. De qualquer forma, como eu não consegui pegar um trem noturno, tive que passar a noite por lá... e aí começaram as aventuras.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/47/China_Shanxi_Datong.svg/250px-China_Shanxi_Datong.svg.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/47/China_Shanxi_Datong.svg/250px-China_Shanxi_Datong.svg.png" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Localização de <i>Datong </i>no mapa</td></tr>
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<i>Datong </i>fica a 348 km a oeste de <i>Beijing </i>e é uma cidade "menor", porém com mais de 3 milhões de habitantes. Esse tamanho que seria muito em qualquer lugar do mundo não chega a impressionar na China e portanto traz uma série de implicações. Há poucas pessoas que decidem por viajar nessa região, portanto poucos turistas estrangeiros, poucos serviços, etc. Além disso, é uma cidade que vive basicamente da exploração do carvão, matriz energética do país. Em resumo, é uma cidade um tanto feia, mas que está tentando dar a volta. A região mais central e histórica está sendo restaurada, uma réplica de uma muralha sendo erguida, e o potencial turístico sendo elevado.</div>
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<b>Dificuldades em <i>Datong</i></b></div>
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Ainda em <i>Beijing</i> comecei a me deparar com o meu primeiro problema. Eu precisava de uma <i>cama</i> por um preço baixo apenas pra passar a noite na cidade. O lugar indicado pelo guia <i>Lonely Planet </i>não existia mais. Na internet só estava conseguindo encontrar lugares que custassem mais de 200 RMB, inviável no meu orçamento. Então, achei no site <i><a href="http://wikitravel.org/en/Datong">Wikitravel</a> </i>um artigo sobre a cidade e lá esse email: <span style="background-color: white; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 19.200000762939453px; text-align: left;"><a href="mailto:1161189938@qq.com">1161189938@qq.com</a>, </span><span style="background-color: white; text-align: left;">no qual eu consegui reservar uma cama de dormitório em um hostel recém-aberto. Feito isso as questões ainda não estavam terminadas. Após chegar em <i>Datong </i>eu ainda tinha que comprar minha passagem de trem para o próximo destino <i>Pingyao</i> para a noite seguinte. Na estação de <i>Datong</i> não havia nenhum balcão que vendesse passagens em inglês. Cheguei com meu iPad e tentei mostrar alguma coisa, traduzir algumas palavras e nada. Então, miraculosamente, alguns estudantes que falavam inglês me salvaram e lidaram com o guichê. PORÉM, havia uma questão, não havia mais assentos disponíveis no trem, e, nesse caso, eu teria que viajar em pé, cerca de 8h até a manhã seguinte. Bom, era isso ou perder o itinérario e decidi topar o risco. Logo em seguida fui tentar pegar um táxi pra chegar no hostel. Ninguém falava inglês obviamente mas além disso ninguém queria usar o taxímetro. Quiseram me cobrar 50 RMB a princípio, mas depois consegui baixar para 15 RMB. O preço justo, me contaram posteriormente, era de 12 RMB. E, AINDA, nem tudo estava resolvido. Para conseguir visitar os dois monumentos no dia seguinte e terminar o passeio a tempo de pegar o trem noturno eu precisava achar um tour, a um preço acessível, que fizesse isso. Consegui fazer a reserva desse passeio com a <a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1442181194">CITS</a><span style="font-family: sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="line-height: 19.200000762939453px;">, </span></span></span><span style="background-color: white; text-align: left;">100 RMB, apenas transporte.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; text-align: left;"><b>Enfim, o passeio...!</b></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; text-align: left;">Passada então toda a dor de cabeça de garantir hotel, trem e tour, sim, finalmente vou poder fazer o que eu queria ali, passear. </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; text-align: left;">De manhã esperando pelo tour tive a oportunidade de conhecer um casal figura! <i>David </i>e <i>Vinciane</i>, professores belgas que ensinam holandês, adoram viajar e conversar. De <i>Datong </i>a <i>Pingyao</i> e até <i>Xi'An</i> fomos nos trombando e viajando meio juntos, uma experiência rica e, com certeza, divertida!</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; text-align: left;">Nosso tour se juntou próximo à estação de trem de <i>Datong</i> e partimos em direção às <i>Cavernas (Grottoes) de Yungang</i>.</span></div>
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<i><b>Cavernas de Yungang</b></i></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PztHHQm61BM/UD7Cddzx71I/AAAAAAAACHw/Ol88w1GXxa0/s1600/IMG_1178.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PztHHQm61BM/UD7Cddzx71I/AAAAAAAACHw/Ol88w1GXxa0/s320/IMG_1178.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Entrada das Cavernas de <i>Yungang</i></td></tr>
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<span style="text-align: justify;">Essas cavernas estão localizadas a 16 km sudoeste de </span><i style="text-align: justify;">Datong, </i><span style="text-align: justify;">foram construídas entre os séculos 5 e 6 e reúnem um acervo de cerca de 252 cavernas (mas apenas algumas podem ser visitadas) e 51.000 estátuas e estatuetas de Buda.</span> </div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5nm232B26bM/UD7Db9b4baI/AAAAAAAACII/NMYrMmEkwwI/s1600/IMG_1248.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5nm232B26bM/UD7Db9b4baI/AAAAAAAACII/NMYrMmEkwwI/s200/IMG_1248.JPG" width="133" /></a>As cavernas são muito antigas e justamente refletem um momento cultural bem antigo da China. Isso fica evidente por exemplo no estilo das estátuas de Buda. Esse estilo é muito mais parecido com o que eu tinha visto no Sudeste Asiático em Myanmar com feições e formas comuns humanas do que o que se costuma ver na China, o Buda gordo e "redondo".</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8bMp_Eki3Z4/UD7F3QmD2PI/AAAAAAAACIQ/AyXuanEPQW4/s1600/IMG_1231.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8bMp_Eki3Z4/UD7F3QmD2PI/AAAAAAAACIQ/AyXuanEPQW4/s200/IMG_1231.JPG" width="200" /></a>Algumas cavernas tinham Budas enormes, mais de 15 m de altura, enquanto outras tinham muitos minúsculos esculpidos nas paredes. A caverna número 5, com pórtico de madeira, é um verdadeiro tesouro. É proibido tirar fotos dentro e mesmo que você tente a impressão não vai ser original. Eu faria um comparativo com alguns tetos e estruturas internas de igrejas de Ouro Preto tamanho era o número de detalhes e cores no teto da caverna.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xpWQtd6coUw/UD7GxhgIRtI/AAAAAAAACIY/stbNRQQkibk/s1600/IMG_1254.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xpWQtd6coUw/UD7GxhgIRtI/AAAAAAAACIY/stbNRQQkibk/s320/IMG_1254.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Uma das principais estátuas <br />
das Cavernas de <i>Yunganga</i></td></tr>
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A entrada para as cavernas é salgada, cerca de 150 RMB por pessoa. Por sorte descobri que a minha carteirinha da USP era aceita e eles aplicavam um desconto de 50%. Em praticamente toda a China é possível requisitar o desconto para estudante na entrada de atrações turísticas.</div>
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<b><i>Monastérios Suspensos (Hanging Monasteries)</i></b></div>
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Se as Cavernas de <i>Yungang </i>ficam de um lado de <i>Datong</i>, os Monastérios Suspensos ficam no lado exatamente oposto. Portanto é longe e pode ser caro pegar um táxi para ir de um lugar ao outro. Os Monastérios foram construídos há mais de 1.500 anos atrás na encosta de um abismo como forma de serem protegidos dos ventos, chuvas e cheias. </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LN-x_GKSOfo/UD7JBxfMtbI/AAAAAAAACIg/J-DDzWZJ3Ms/s1600/IMG_1288.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LN-x_GKSOfo/UD7JBxfMtbI/AAAAAAAACIg/J-DDzWZJ3Ms/s320/IMG_1288.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Monastérios Suspensos vistos da entrada</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcxJcrpOt8-ug9tKwXd-zEE_1lXTX9Nm1qtwLHVS1PYKiShe4fQKf5f-pCU2xlI2n4z-shQLDTsDgpReMZ8MyLtg-Yyi7YzN7tL8VRdkf4KQjGM3EBsQFbXGdBvRWtTFB0Cu6NI7MpOxFH/s1600/IMG_1319.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcxJcrpOt8-ug9tKwXd-zEE_1lXTX9Nm1qtwLHVS1PYKiShe4fQKf5f-pCU2xlI2n4z-shQLDTsDgpReMZ8MyLtg-Yyi7YzN7tL8VRdkf4KQjGM3EBsQFbXGdBvRWtTFB0Cu6NI7MpOxFH/s200/IMG_1319.JPG" width="200" /></a>Os Monastérios são realmente altos, e na verdade, bem pequenos. As passarelas são muito estreitas entre uma parte e outra e as grades de proteção bem baixas. Ou seja, acho que ninguém cairia acidentalmente mas fica um friozinho na barriga sobre a estabilidade do complexo. A parte inteiramente feita em madeira fica parcialmente suspensa em finíssimos pilares de madeira e parte fixadas na paredão rochoso. </div>
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O custo pra visitar os Monastérios também são os caros 150 RMB. Porém de qualquer forma eu acho que nesse caso faz muito sentido já que é uma estrutura muito frágil e um tanto perigosa, daí a entrada cara acaba funcionando como um controle no número de visitantes.<br />
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<b><i>O trem</i></b><br />
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Aqui embaixo uma foto do <i>David </i>e da <i>Vinciane </i>enquanto comíamos deliciosos <i>dumplings </i>e tomávamos uma <i>Tsingtao </i>(cerveja chinesa) esperando pelo horário do nosso trem noturno pra <i>Pingyao</i>. Demos ainda uma volta pela região central de <i>Datong</i> e não ficamos muito bem impressionados. Realmente lembra aquelas cidades comunistas, cinzas, quadradas e com prédios mal conservados ou abandonados. Os esforços pela mudança de matriz econômica são bem-vindos.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bqXabYycpFQ/UD7Jue20ReI/AAAAAAAACIw/DrCesUEqrq4/s1600/IMG_1321.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bqXabYycpFQ/UD7Jue20ReI/AAAAAAAACIw/DrCesUEqrq4/s320/IMG_1321.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Vinciane </i>e <i>David</i></td></tr>
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Ainda depois de jantarmos e esperarmos o trem até a noite, eu ainda tinha um problema. Não teria onde sentar no trem, ou seja, 9h em pé ou sentado no chão amontoado com outras pessoas. Foi então que enquanto aguardávamos no hall de espera da estação, alguns estudantes se aproximaram de nós e começaram a querer praticar inglês. Foram muito simpáticos e retribuímos a conversa. Quando eu expliquei que teria que ficar em pé a viagem toda, um deles logo se prontificou e disse que iria me ajudar a arrumar um lugar e que eu deveria seguí-lo sempre. Foi o que eu fiz. Porém, na hora de embarcarmos, <i>David </i>e <i>Vinciane </i>foram barrados. A passagem deles havia sido marcada erroneamente para o dia seguinte e daí tiveram que passar mais uma noite em <i>Datong</i>. Eu estava então sozinho no trem com meus recém feitos amigos. </div>
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<b><i>Vale a pena ler!</i></b></div>
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Chegamos no vagão e não havia lugar para sentar, portanto já pensei em ficar mesmo em pé. Porém, meu novo amigo disse <i>"Você senta no meu lugar e eu fico em pé"</i>. Na minha ótica isso era absurdo, ele mal me conhecia e respondi que ele não poderia fazer isso. Logo ele replicou <i>"É meu presente pra você"</i>. Insistindo, acabei aceitando o favor que ele ofereceu e algum tempinho depois todos conseguimos sentar. Esse foi um daqueles momentos em que você <i>destrói preconceitos</i>. Minha experiência de Sudeste Asiático até então classificaria os chineses, à exceção dos meus amigos <i>Zhengyu </i>e <i>Eric</i>, como agressivos, mal educados e pouco solícitos. Bom, aí esteve um exemplo que começou a desmontar essa idéia. Em toda minha viagem pela China fui <i>muito </i>bem tratado, recebido e oferecido favores críticos para que eu pudesse completar meus planos. Nessas horas também é que se renova a crença de que as pessoas podem ser boas, sem interesses, sem joguinhos, apenas pelo fato de ajudar, ainda que sejam completamente estranhos. Pense..<br />
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<b>Próximo post é sobre <a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/09/pingyao-debaixo-de-chuva.html">Pingyao</a></b></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02152018193849879223noreply@blogger.com1Datong, Shanxi, China40.076816 113.30012639.9796165 113.14219750000001 40.1740155 113.4580545tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4089077439641967020.post-31297165874680196992012-08-25T04:15:00.001+07:002012-10-04T05:18:29.667+07:00The Great Wall of China<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b>Previous post:</b> <a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/08/5-days-in-beijing.html">5 days in Beijing</a><br />
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<b><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/08/a-grande-muralha-da-china.html">Versão em Português</a></b></div>
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<b><i>Intro</i></b><br />
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Which is the monument you have heard about China since you were a kid? The Great Wall of China, for sure. Pictured from movies to cartoons, like Mulan from Disney, this Chinese icon more than 21,000 km long it's one of the humankind greatest achievements.</div>
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It started to be built in 7 BC for border control reasons among the former independent states during ancient China. <i>Qin </i>dynasty in order to unify the country ordered the destruction of the ancient walls and its substitution with just one that would unify and protect the country from Northern invaders. The walls then became <i>The Great Wall</i> during the <i>Ming </i>dynasty, which marked Chinese civilization peak in history in 14th century. The walls were reinforced and extended to procted China from the <i>Manchu</i>. However, the end of the <i>Ming </i>was marked by an attack that overcame the wall and seized <i>Beijing</i>. Since then its relevance has decreased and today is just a historical and cultural memory.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/9d/Map_of_the_Great_Wall_of_China.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="257" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/9d/Map_of_the_Great_Wall_of_China.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><br />
Map with many walls and<br />
its respective dynasties and dates</td></tr>
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<b><i>An "astronautical" myth</i></b><br />
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Um mito popular muito famoso é de que a muralha pudesse ser vista a olho nu do espaço. Não é verdade. É necessário se ter uma visão cerca de 7x mais potente do que a de um humano normal e ainda contar com grande sorte meteorológica para ser possível distinguir as cores. A <a href="http://www.google.com.br/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=7&cad=rja&ved=0CGoQFjAG&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.nasa.gov%2Fvision%2Fspace%2Fworkinginspace%2Fgreat_wall.html&ei=5lE1UKroIMLb0QGTp4DoAQ&usg=AFQjCNGhn3hKpGZFXC3W2gnFUC_BvK0lAw&sig2=DDzgFIw3FfR8e1qIhGGDWg">NASA </a>já rechaçou por diversas vezes que isso não é possível e muito menos a partir da Lua.<br />
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A popular myth is that the wall can be seen at nude eye from the space. It's not truth. One would have to have an eye 7x more powerful than a regular human and even so hope to the weather help to be able to distinguish the colors. <a href="http://www.google.com.br/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=7&cad=rja&ved=0CGoQFjAG&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.nasa.gov%2Fvision%2Fspace%2Fworkinginspace%2Fgreat_wall.html&ei=5lE1UKroIMLb0QGTp4DoAQ&usg=AFQjCNGhn3hKpGZFXC3W2gnFUC_BvK0lAw&sig2=DDzgFIw3FfR8e1qIhGGDWg">NASA </a>already refused this idea many times and even less possible from the moon.<br />
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<b><i>Which part of the wall you'd like to go?</i></b><br />
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An advantage to the tourists is that the most famous and impressive parts of the <i>Great Wall</i> are near <i>Beijing</i>. That allows you to spend a whole day out of the city, accessible through public transportation - only recommended to Chinese speakers - or hiring a tour. Anyway, only after you have decided is that you gonna go through the details and find out that the <i>Great Wall </i>is divided in many parts, in general, all acessible but still too many, and you have to find someone to take you there.</div>
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<tr><td><a href="http://blog.hry.in/wp-content/uploads/2007/05/beijing-great-wall-map.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="313" src="http://blog.hry.in/wp-content/uploads/2007/05/beijing-great-wall-map.gif" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Map w/ zoom<br />
of the most famous parts</td></tr>
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As the map shows, near <i>Beijing</i> there are 14 different locations where you could pay your visit to the <i>Great Wall</i>. The shortlist would be: 3) <i>Simatai </i>(closed for maintenance); 4) <i>Jinshanling </i>(the one I've been to); 5) <i>Gubeikou</i>; 8) <i>Mutianyu</i>; 9) <i>Jiankou</i>; 14) <i>Badaling. </i>Bad news: the most "fixed" one is the closest to <i>Beijing</i>, it's <i>Badaling</i>, and, besides that, the crowdest one. Especially in summer it may be very difficult to have a "private moment" there which may (or may not) affect your whole experience if you care about that. Good news: all the other mentioned places, even though more expensive and farther, may have a few (or none) people around while you're visiting, even during high season. I'd also try to check the weather forecast so you can have the day <i>as you wish</i>. If you want blue skies, with blue skies, if you want with snow, check for snow, and so on...<br />
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<i><b>Jinshanling</b></i><br />
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<tr><td><a href="http://www.travelchinaguide.com/images/great_wall/jinshanling-map.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="196" src="http://www.travelchinaguide.com/images/great_wall/jinshanling-map.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Map of <i>Jianshanling</i></td></tr>
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Well, as I have told you, I chose <i>Jinshanling</i>. It's one of the farthest corners, around 3h from <i>Beijing</i>, so probably one of the most expensive options. The tour cost me 330 RMB including return transportation, entrance tickets and lunch. It's also one of the steepest and mountainous parts and with a large extension without maintenance. Thereofre, if you're not reasonably fit, don't go. Or, if you have a grandmother, mother, aunt, grandpa, etc., who are not reasonably fit, it may not be the best option. There's a cable car to reach the wall, but after that you're on your own.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-maL6UC3XcdI/UDVQuQjx3iI/AAAAAAAACDs/jSYHQ8lY65o/s1600/IMG_0656.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-maL6UC3XcdI/UDVQuQjx3iI/AAAAAAAACDs/jSYHQ8lY65o/s320/IMG_0656.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><i>Great Wall </i>seen from below</td></tr>
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To look at the <i>Great Wall </i>for the first time is like to have a kids' dream. Your whole life you heard and saw pictures about that place and, finally, you're there face to face with one of the greatest monuments of humankind. From below we already coulde see the mountain peaks pointed by towers and walls.</div>
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Since the beginning we knew that the tour in the place itself would be short. Just 3-4h (yes, that's not too much). When we arrived there our guide started some typical "terrorism" in order to convince us to climb up to the wall through the cable car since we could spend to much time ascending and then not having enough time to explore the wall or to catch the bus on time. I was suspicious about that but I didn't come from the other side of the world, for just 1 day, to spend most of my time walking through the bushes. The wall was the major attraction and thus I paid the 40 RMB of the cable car. I advise to take water and food from the city. Prices at the base of the wall are double, and at the wall itself, triple.</div>
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<tr><td><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vv-0--u_XrA/UDVTNSdFOUI/AAAAAAAACD0/uCHU4Ckrwrc/s1600/IMG_0662.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vv-0--u_XrA/UDVTNSdFOUI/AAAAAAAACD0/uCHU4Ckrwrc/s320/IMG_0662.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Renovated part of <i>Jinshanling</i></td></tr>
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In China there's a different concept about preserving monuments or historical items. In general, instead of keeping the strict original aspect, the renovation option is chosen. Therefore a significant amount of Chinese monuments are in a "better" condition then you'd expect for its age. The <i>Great Wall </i>is not an exception and step by step is undergoing renovations. Remains to be seens if some original parts are going to be left in the original condition or if all its extension will be renovated.</div>
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Going on, as soon as you get off the cable car, some steps when you reached the wall. This is <i>Jinshanling </i>part which went through renovations so it's easily walkable. The towers are well kept and you can even go upstairs safely. </div>
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I went through in a baking temperature of almost 40oC with just some cookies and 2 bottles of water in my bag. A Chinese old lady who spoke very bad English soon started to follow me everywhere in order to become my "forced" guide.</div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinc8EokooxAilVPHBEj8pmqZc46rjT5-z-T-tTbaOIppQl2e7xB5Ar55ysUN8yA83xbrlDzIv_juxb5lKGQWw-cwQJmyh9myA4f6A6ykxyBwEOz_V7LV_zagQnSwZenU4eDO6koHqj7W0Q/s1600/IMG_0673.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinc8EokooxAilVPHBEj8pmqZc46rjT5-z-T-tTbaOIppQl2e7xB5Ar55ysUN8yA83xbrlDzIv_juxb5lKGQWw-cwQJmyh9myA4f6A6ykxyBwEOz_V7LV_zagQnSwZenU4eDO6koHqj7W0Q/s320/IMG_0673.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><i>Jinshanling </i>and the beginning<br />
of the original part seen by the tower</td></tr>
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Soon the nice and tidy path has been raplaced by a broken and in bad condition one, roofless and even destroyed towers. The chance is not abrupt and goes in a smoothly way. However, when you notice, you're finally there, in the original part of the wall.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WW-ZjRevvsE/UDVYaXdYuiI/AAAAAAAACEs/BbbWZ_ZIZ7s/s1600/IMG_0678.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WW-ZjRevvsE/UDVYaXdYuiI/AAAAAAAACEs/BbbWZ_ZIZ7s/s320/IMG_0678.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">One of <i>Jianshaling's </i>steepest<br />
parts seen from below</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HPjWhXCFZ-s/UDVZP-s0leI/AAAAAAAACE0/s_uiSkaikY8/s1600/IMG_0684.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HPjWhXCFZ-s/UDVZP-s0leI/AAAAAAAACE0/s_uiSkaikY8/s320/IMG_0684.JPG" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">The same part seen from above</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
By then I had already been through more than 1 hour walking. The steep part is <i>really </i>steep, like you were going upstairs, sometimes climbing it, rather than just walking by a wall. Besides that many of the steps are in very poor condition, which makes difficult to walk. However, I wouldn't classify it as dangerous, actually not to those reasonably fit. Anyway, you have to prepare yourself for a very hot day in case of clear weather during the summer season.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLAW5zqGVRgdDc6jCUsk8-tL5gaKW7sVxvf9U3MybH0rBbRcApXCyteYmjGClagd2y_bdbXoMweXi162-_Wqqra67q3OhIxhyMhmOZMgw0wyAiStXtZJDM-ojaCDTQSp9KRmXozfleyz5E/s1600/IMG_07131.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="165" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLAW5zqGVRgdDc6jCUsk8-tL5gaKW7sVxvf9U3MybH0rBbRcApXCyteYmjGClagd2y_bdbXoMweXi162-_Wqqra67q3OhIxhyMhmOZMgw0wyAiStXtZJDM-ojaCDTQSp9KRmXozfleyz5E/s320/IMG_07131.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Original path in <i>Jinshanling</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xpm2qusN7kA/UDVjeZhEPUI/AAAAAAAACGQ/a74CT8kEj10/s1600/IMG_0689.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xpm2qusN7kA/UDVjeZhEPUI/AAAAAAAACGQ/a74CT8kEj10/s320/IMG_0689.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Walls "within"<br />
the wall</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Another interesting thing to see in <i>Jinshanling </i>are the walls "within" the wall part. These are all parts placed at a certain distance to each other in order to make invaders life more difficult if they already got inside. Naturally, this strategy is used in the steep parts in order to give defensive advantage.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6VYpUeexGVX3rpzjux2-BU0eBk18sKcXhDwM5X5WikYKwIV38g5YQ6KuqfeMe4r6xDGfOwZYmi7hKtMEWwrjpk1qHhfsvQL7ZYTMpATEPyFKmzTM8-qUK_OnpZu-Yw_HZbEIg7ZqXEPf4/s1600/IMG_07181.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6VYpUeexGVX3rpzjux2-BU0eBk18sKcXhDwM5X5WikYKwIV38g5YQ6KuqfeMe4r6xDGfOwZYmi7hKtMEWwrjpk1qHhfsvQL7ZYTMpATEPyFKmzTM8-qUK_OnpZu-Yw_HZbEIg7ZqXEPf4/s320/IMG_07181.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">One of my last views from <i>Jinshanling</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<i>Jianshanling's </i>end gives start to one of the steepest and most dangerous, however beautiful, parts of the <i>Great Wall</i>, the <i>Simatai </i>part. Unfortunately, besides being closed to turists it's something <i>really </i>dangerous. I saw some pictures in which there's almost no path at all and the wall edges are the only way to go. One slip and you may fall to the cliff. Anyway, here goes one picture, which is not mine, but can give you an idea how it is, maybe in some years from now...<br />
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<tr><td><a href="http://images.mybeijingchina.com/attraction/beijing/simatai-great-wall/simatai-great-wall1-b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://images.mybeijingchina.com/attraction/beijing/simatai-great-wall/simatai-great-wall1-b.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><i>Simatai </i>part picture</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After finishing the tour I decided to get back to our meeting point by walking instead of taking the cable car. We had a great lunch in a nearby restaurant and then we took the road back to <i>Beijing</i>.<br />
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The <i>Great Wall </i>as I had previously said it's something really impressive. How humankind was capable to build such big structure that lasted for thousands of years. It's certainly a unforgettable experience for anyone!<br />
<br />
Next post will be <a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/09/to-countryside-datong.html">about some findings around <i>Datong!</i></a></div>
</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02152018193849879223noreply@blogger.com0G45 Daguang Expy, Miyun, Beijing, China40.682467 117.24349739.911854500000004 115.9800695 41.4530795 118.50692450000001tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4089077439641967020.post-19519837080423268922012-08-23T06:55:00.001+07:002012-10-04T05:18:56.462+07:00A Grande Muralha da China<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b>Post anterior:</b> <a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/08/5-dias-em-beijing.html">5 dias em Beijing</a><br />
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<b><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/08/the-great-wall-of-china.html">English Version</a></b></div>
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<b><i>Intro</i></b><br />
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Qual é o monumento da China que você escuta desde criancinha? A Grande Muralha da China, com certeza. Retratada desde filmes a desenhos, como Mulan da Disney, esse ícone chinês de mais de 21.000 km de extensão é um dos mais famosos feitos da humanidade. </div>
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Começou a ser construída no século 7 AC como forma de demarcação de fronteira dos antigos estados independentes que formavam a China antiga. A dinastia <i>Qin </i>querendo unificar o país ordenou a destruição das antigas muralhas e em suas substituição a construção de uma única para proteger o norte do país de invasões. As muralhas vieram a se tornar <i>A Grande Muralha</i> durante a famosa dinastia <i>Ming</i>, que de certa forma marcou o apogeu da civilização chinesa no século 14. As muralhas foram reforçadas e estendidas visando proteger a China das invasões dos <i>Manchus</i>. Porém, o final dessa dinastia foi causado justamente por um ataque atravessando a muralha e dominando <i>Beijing</i>. Desde então a sua relevância funcional decresceu e hoje é apenas uma memória de valor histórico e cultural.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/9d/Map_of_the_Great_Wall_of_China.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="257" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/9d/Map_of_the_Great_Wall_of_China.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mapa com as diversas muralhas<br />
e suas respectivas épocas e dinastias</td></tr>
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<b><i>Um mito "astronáutico"</i></b><br />
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Um mito popular muito famoso é de que a muralha pudesse ser vista a olho nu do espaço. Não é verdade. É necessário se ter uma visão cerca de 7x mais potente do que a de um humano normal e ainda contar com grande sorte meteorológica para ser possível distinguir as cores. A <a href="http://www.google.com.br/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=7&cad=rja&ved=0CGoQFjAG&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.nasa.gov%2Fvision%2Fspace%2Fworkinginspace%2Fgreat_wall.html&ei=5lE1UKroIMLb0QGTp4DoAQ&usg=AFQjCNGhn3hKpGZFXC3W2gnFUC_BvK0lAw&sig2=DDzgFIw3FfR8e1qIhGGDWg">NASA </a>já rechaçou por diversas vezes que isso não é possível e muito menos a partir da Lua.<br />
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<b><i>Que parte da muralha você quer ir?</i></b><br />
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Uma vantagem para os turistas é que as partes mais famosas e impressionantes da <i>Grande Muralha </i>ficam próximas a <i>Beijing</i>. Isso permite fazer um passeio de 1 dia inteiro por lá, acessível via transporte público - recomendável apenas para pessoas que sabem chinês - ou contratando um tour fechado. De qualquer forma, só quando você realmente decidir ir é que vai entrar nos detalhes e descobrir que a a <i>Grande Muralha </i>é dividida em muitas partes, em geral todas acessíveis, mas ainda muitas, e que você tem que escolher e achar alguém que te leve até lá.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://blog.hry.in/wp-content/uploads/2007/05/beijing-great-wall-map.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="313" src="http://blog.hry.in/wp-content/uploads/2007/05/beijing-great-wall-map.gif" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mapa c/ zoom<br />
com os trechos mais famosos</td></tr>
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Como o mapa acima mostra, ao redor de <i>Beijing</i> há em torno de 14 diferentes localidades nas quais você poderia fazer sua visita à <i>Grande Muralha</i>. A lista final dos trechos mais famosos seriam: 3) <i>Simatai </i>(fechado para manutenção); 4) <i>Jinshanling </i>(a que eu fui); 5) <i>Gubeikou</i>; 8) <i>Mutianyu</i>; 9) <i>Jiankou; </i>14) <i>Badaling</i>. Má notícia: a mais "concertada" e mais próxima de <i>Beijing </i>é a <i>Badaling</i>, e, de quebra, a mais amontoada de pessoas. Principalmente no verão pode ser muito difícil ter "um momento a sós" por lá o que pode (ou não) afetar sua experiência se você ligar pra isso. Boa notícia: todos os outros lugares citados, embora mais caros e mais distantes, podem ter poucas (ou nenhuma) pessoa enquanto você estiver visitando, mesmo durante a alta temporada. Eu ainda tentaria checar a previsão do tempo para ter o dia <i>do jeito que você quer</i>. Se você quer céu azul, com céu azul, se quer com neve, cheque por neve, e assim vai...<br />
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<i><b>Jinshanling</b></i><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.travelchinaguide.com/images/great_wall/jinshanling-map.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="196" src="http://www.travelchinaguide.com/images/great_wall/jinshanling-map.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mapa de <i>Jianshanling</i></td></tr>
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Bom, como eu havia dito, acabei optando por <i>Jinshanling</i>. É um dos trechos mais distantes, cerca de 3h de <i>Beijing</i>, portanto provavelmente um dos mais caros. O tour custou 330 RMB incluindo transporte ida-e-volta, tickets de entrada e almoço. Também é um dos trechos mais acidentados e montanhosos e tem um grande pedaço sem nenhum manutenção. Ou seja, se você não está com um preparamento físico básico, não vá. Ou, se você tem uma avó, uma mãe, uma tia, um vô, etc., que não está em condições, pode não ser a melhor opção também. Há um teleférico pra se chegar <i>até a muralha</i>, mas depois disso você está por conta das suas pernas.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-maL6UC3XcdI/UDVQuQjx3iI/AAAAAAAACDs/jSYHQ8lY65o/s1600/IMG_0656.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-maL6UC3XcdI/UDVQuQjx3iI/AAAAAAAACDs/jSYHQ8lY65o/s320/IMG_0656.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Grande Muralha </i>vista de baixo</td></tr>
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Olhar para a <i>Grande Muralha </i>pela primeira vez é como estar vendo algum sonho de criança. A vida inteira você ouviu falar e viu fotos desse lugar mas aí enfim, está você cara a cara com um dos maiores monumentos da humanidade. Da parte de baixo já podíamos ver os topos das montanhas pontilhados com torres e muros.</div>
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Desde o começo sabíamos que o tempo de passeio no local em si era curto. Apenas 3-4h (sim, isso é pouco). Logo que chegamos nosso guia logo tratou de fazer o terrorismo típico dizendo que se quiséssemos subir até a muralha a pé iríamos gastar muito tempo e poderíamos não conseguir ver tudo ou perder o ônibus então deveríamos pegar o teleférico. Eu desconfiei sobre isso porém era fato que eu não vim do outro lado do mundo, por 1 dia, pra gastar uma grande parte do meu tempo no meio do mato. A muralha era a atração principal e portanto paguei os 40 RMB do teleférico. Recomendo trazerem água e comida da cidade. Os preços na base da muralha são o dobro, e na muralha em si chega ao triplo.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vv-0--u_XrA/UDVTNSdFOUI/AAAAAAAACD0/uCHU4Ckrwrc/s1600/IMG_0662.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vv-0--u_XrA/UDVTNSdFOUI/AAAAAAAACD0/uCHU4Ckrwrc/s320/IMG_0662.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Parte renovada do trecho <i>Jinshanling</i></td></tr>
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A China cultiva um conceito um pouco diferente de como preservar monumentos e itens históricos. Em geral, ao invés de se manter o aspecto estritamente original, escolhe-se pela restauração. Portanto em boa parte da China muitos monumentos estarão num aspecto "melhor" do que seria esperado para a sua idade. A <i>Grande Muralha </i>não foi tão diferente e pouco a pouco vem sendo restaurada. Resta saber se trechos originais serão deixados intactos ou se toda a sua extensão passará por reformas.</div>
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Continuando, logo que você sai do teleférico, alguns metros e você já está nela. Esse é o pedaço da <i>Jinshanling </i>que passou por reformas e portanto é facilmente andável. As torres também estão bem mantidas e é possível subir nelas sem nenhum perigo.</div>
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Fui andando num calor insuportável de quase 40oC e com apenas algumas bolachas e duas garrafas d'água na mochila. Uma senhora chinesa que falava inglês muito mal logo "grudou" em mim querendo se passar por minha guia. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinc8EokooxAilVPHBEj8pmqZc46rjT5-z-T-tTbaOIppQl2e7xB5Ar55ysUN8yA83xbrlDzIv_juxb5lKGQWw-cwQJmyh9myA4f6A6ykxyBwEOz_V7LV_zagQnSwZenU4eDO6koHqj7W0Q/s1600/IMG_0673.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinc8EokooxAilVPHBEj8pmqZc46rjT5-z-T-tTbaOIppQl2e7xB5Ar55ysUN8yA83xbrlDzIv_juxb5lKGQWw-cwQJmyh9myA4f6A6ykxyBwEOz_V7LV_zagQnSwZenU4eDO6koHqj7W0Q/s320/IMG_0673.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Jinshanling </i>e começo do trecho original <br />
visto pela torre</td></tr>
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Aos poucos o caminho todo consertado e arrumadinho começou a dar lugar a áreas esburacadas, torres sem tetos ou até parcialmente destruídas. A mudança não é tão brusca e vai acontecendo de forma bem gradual. Porém quando se nota, você está finalmente na parte original da muralha.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WW-ZjRevvsE/UDVYaXdYuiI/AAAAAAAACEs/BbbWZ_ZIZ7s/s1600/IMG_0678.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WW-ZjRevvsE/UDVYaXdYuiI/AAAAAAAACEs/BbbWZ_ZIZ7s/s320/IMG_0678.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Um dos trechos mais íngremes de <i>Jinshanling</i><br />
visto de baixo</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HPjWhXCFZ-s/UDVZP-s0leI/AAAAAAAACE0/s_uiSkaikY8/s1600/IMG_0684.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HPjWhXCFZ-s/UDVZP-s0leI/AAAAAAAACE0/s_uiSkaikY8/s320/IMG_0684.JPG" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">O mesmo trecho visto de cima</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Por aí já devia ter se passado mais de 1h andando. O trecho íngreme é <i>muito </i>íngreme, quase como se você estivesse subindo uma escada, as vezes escalando-a, do que propriamente andando sobre um muro. Além disso muitos dos degraus estão em estado bem precário, o que dificulta andar. No entanto, eu não diria que é algo perigoso, pelo menos não para pessoas com um condicionamento físico básico. De qualquer forma, tem que se preparar para o calor caso seja um dia de tempo aberto.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLAW5zqGVRgdDc6jCUsk8-tL5gaKW7sVxvf9U3MybH0rBbRcApXCyteYmjGClagd2y_bdbXoMweXi162-_Wqqra67q3OhIxhyMhmOZMgw0wyAiStXtZJDM-ojaCDTQSp9KRmXozfleyz5E/s1600/IMG_07131.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="165" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLAW5zqGVRgdDc6jCUsk8-tL5gaKW7sVxvf9U3MybH0rBbRcApXCyteYmjGClagd2y_bdbXoMweXi162-_Wqqra67q3OhIxhyMhmOZMgw0wyAiStXtZJDM-ojaCDTQSp9KRmXozfleyz5E/s320/IMG_07131.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chão original em <i>Jinshanling</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xpm2qusN7kA/UDVjeZhEPUI/AAAAAAAACGQ/a74CT8kEj10/s1600/IMG_0689.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xpm2qusN7kA/UDVjeZhEPUI/AAAAAAAACGQ/a74CT8kEj10/s320/IMG_0689.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A muralha "dentro" <br />
da muralha</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Uma coisa interessante de se ver em <i>Jinshanling </i>são os trechos de muralha "dentro" da muralha. São pedaços de muro dispostos a uma certa distância entre um e outro que visavam dificultar a vida de invasores mesmo quando já estavam dentro dos muros. Naturalmente esses trechos estão presentes em subidas, de forma a aproveitar o aclive para defesa.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6VYpUeexGVX3rpzjux2-BU0eBk18sKcXhDwM5X5WikYKwIV38g5YQ6KuqfeMe4r6xDGfOwZYmi7hKtMEWwrjpk1qHhfsvQL7ZYTMpATEPyFKmzTM8-qUK_OnpZu-Yw_HZbEIg7ZqXEPf4/s1600/IMG_07181.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6VYpUeexGVX3rpzjux2-BU0eBk18sKcXhDwM5X5WikYKwIV38g5YQ6KuqfeMe4r6xDGfOwZYmi7hKtMEWwrjpk1qHhfsvQL7ZYTMpATEPyFKmzTM8-qUK_OnpZu-Yw_HZbEIg7ZqXEPf4/s320/IMG_07181.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Uma das últimas vistas de <i>Jinshanling</i></td></tr>
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O final de <i>Jinshanling</i> dá início a uma das mais íngremes e perigosas, porém belas, partes da <i>Grande Muralha</i>, o trecho de <i>Simatai</i>. Infelizmente, além de estar fechado para turistas é algo realmente perigoso. Cheguei a ver algumas fotos em que praticamente não existe caminho a se pisar, apenas o próprio muro é que serve de passagem. De qualquer forma, aqui vai uma foto, que não é minha, pra vocês terem uma idéia como é, quem sabe daqui uns anos...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.mybeijingchina.com/attraction/beijing/simatai-great-wall/simatai-great-wall1-b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://images.mybeijingchina.com/attraction/beijing/simatai-great-wall/simatai-great-wall1-b.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Foto de um trecho de <i>Simatai</i></td></tr>
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Terminado o passeio, resolvi voltar ao ponto de encontro andando ao invés de gastar mais dinheiro com o teleférico. Tivemos um ótimo almoço em um restaurante bem próximo e depois pegamos a estrada pra voltar pra <i>Beijing</i>.<br />
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A <i>Grande Muralha </i>como eu tinha dito é algo impressionante. Como a humanidade é capaz de construir coisas tão grandes e que duram por milhares de anos. Com certeza uma experiência de vida inesquecível para qualquer pessoa!<br />
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O próximo post será sobre alguns <a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/08/em-direcao-ao-interior-datong.html">achados na região de <i>Datong!</i></a></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02152018193849879223noreply@blogger.com0Jinshanling, Luanping, Chengde, Hebei, China40.682467 117.24349740.6704255 117.22375600000001 40.694508500000005 117.263238tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4089077439641967020.post-46989352583759477172012-08-21T21:10:00.000+07:002012-10-04T05:19:38.920+07:005 days in Beijing<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b>Previous post: </b><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/08/chinas-gate-hong-kong.html">China's Gate: Hong Kong</a></div>
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<b><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/08/5-dias-em-beijing.html">Versão em Português</a></b></div>
<i><b>Intro</b></i></div>
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<i>Beijing </i>is a metropolis with more than 19 million people and central place in the culture and habits of the Chinese people. The city started to be formed in the 11th and 7th centuries BC and went through many invasions from the North. Having served as an Imperial capital <i>Beijing </i>shows a lot of symbols, architecture, palaces, etc. It's China's representation as a whole, from its peak as a strong economy and ancient culture, to its fall and resurrection in the last century. Everyone who'll have only a short stay in this giant country should put an effort to come here. Moreover, all those who wonder about exploring China should not forget about <i>Beijing</i>.</div>
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<b><i>Important tips about traveling in China</i></b><br />
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<i>Money</i></div>
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For now, some details. Chinese currency is RMB, also called <i>reminbi </i>or <i>yuan </i>or <i>kuai</i> and it means <i>the people's money</i>. 1 USD = 6.34 RMB. You can only change money at hotels, especial authorized dealers or banks. In practice, throughout the country, you will change it only at banks so it's better to change US$ 300-400 amounts since banks have specific working hours and the whole process takes at least half an hour each time. <i>Hong Kong's </i>money, HKD, it's not accepted in Mainland China. Besides that, at each exchange procedure you'll get a receipt which will entitle the right to change the money back if you have any at the end of your trip. It's not possible to do that outside of China thus do not forget to spend or change back all your <i>kuai</i> before leaving the country.</div>
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<i>Language</i></div>
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Another important thing: <u style="font-style: italic; font-weight: bold;">in Mailand China, English IS NOT widely spoken </u>therefore avoid getting lost. Buy maps and guidebooks in advance and avoid having to ask information in hours or places which would be unlikely to find random walking people on the streets. IN GENERAL, students (young people) are capable to speak basic to intermediate English, usually enough to tell you where to go, what to buy, what to do, etc. Do not be afraid to ask them. My personal experience showed that this was possible almost everywhere I've been through. If possible learn Mandarim basic stuff like numbers, directions, common questions related to train tickets purchase, etc. Everything will help you, believe me!</div>
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One solution I found frequently was to think about all the information I'd need before getting to somewhere and then asking the hostel's staff (who usually speak intermediate English at least) to write it down everything in Chinese in a little paper. Whatever you want <i>if it's written in Chinese</i>, ANYONE can help giving you indications.</div>
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<i>Accommodation</i></div>
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Outside the big cities like <i>Beijing, Shanghai, Xi'An</i>, etc, it can be quite hard to find a hostel. Even if you can find it, it may be difficult to find an available bed for you without booking in advance. Therefore, I do recommend 1-2 days booking in advance through the internet to the big cities and 3-5 days to smaller places with less accommodation offer. The websites <a href="http://www.hostelbookers.com/">www.hostelbookers.com</a> and <a href="http://www.hostelworld.com/">www.hostelworld.com</a> can help you a lot. Generally, a bed in the dorm should cost between USD 7-9/night and it's the standard cheapeast way of traveling. Do not expect your hotel to offer complementary services like bus and train tickets, tours or anything else. In general, hostels are exclusive for sleeping. </div>
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<i>Food</i></div>
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You can spend 1 month in China and have a completely McDonald's, KFC and PizzaHut based experience which you'd have anywhere else in the world OR you can have a rich gastronomic experience based in local food bought in small stalls in the street or small restaurants. The first could cost 30-50 <i>kuai </i>per meal while the second around 10-20. It's up to you.</div>
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<i>Transportation</i></div>
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In overall the Chinese big cities have a big and efficient transportation system with modern subway lines. Theses lines will have English and Chinese identifications making your best ally. Prices may vary between one city to other but I always found something around 2 and 4 <i>kuai</i> with most places charging only as low as 2 - the benefit provided by this transportation option it's incredibly cheap when compared to what we pay in Sao Paulo. Do not try to catch buses if you don't know exactly what line and stop to be dropped at. Taxi drivers can't read or talk English so ask someone to write it down in Chinese for you.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="http://www.jinglunhotelbeijing.com/images/beijing-subway.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="208" src="http://www.jinglunhotelbeijing.com/images/beijing-subway.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><i>Beijing's </i>subway map</td></tr>
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<i>Communication</i></div>
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Mobile communication in China is quite cheap. Besides that, having a local number will make all your travel arrangements between one city to another, tours, etc., way easier. Therefore is highly recommended to acquire a local SIM card. Unfortunately I don't know exactly how to give orientations about that since <i>Zhengyu</i> helped but Google helps everyone! :)</div>
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<b><i>Arrival</i></b></div>
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My, delayed, flight from <i>Hong Kong </i>arrived later than 1 am in the morning in <i>Beijing</i>. I was tired and was not expecting that <i>Jony</i>, my <i>Couchsurf </i>host, would pick me up. However, after going through customs there he was waiting for me. He helped me to carry my stuff and took me to his place where we chatted a while about my trip plans, his work at an airline company, etc. Unfortunately he could host one night only but he helped a lot and I left a Cambodian postcard in gratitude.</div>
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In the next morning I had my first challenge, to find a bank and the subway station around <i>Jony's </i>apartment. China's shock started right there. We were in a distant neighborhood, around the airport, however I felt like being in an American city. Wide well-signed and empty streets, with gardens and trees, buildings at a great distance to the walking path, and the rectangular shaped blocks. Hunm..</div>
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I ended up finding the subway after asking some people where it was and trying to pronounce it in Chinese: <i>Dítié</i>. I still hadn't booked my hostel in <i>Beijing</i> and it was almost 10 am. Therefore I had two options: take the challenge of carrying all my stuff for the whole day and at the end look up for a hostel OR, find a hostel first and practically loose a day. I weighted the risks and for my legs, knees, shoulders and back sadness I chose the first.<br />
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<b><i>Main Circuit</i></b><br />
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Here I will describe what I think<i> </i>it's <i>essential </i>for the average visitor at the first time in <i>Beijing</i>. Besides that, I'd add The Great Wall of China, which will be discussed in the next post given its importance.</div>
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<b><i>Tiananmen Square </i></b></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FqQe3PbER_4/UCwxn0oAoOI/AAAAAAAAB7I/AwCHyBoMsto/s1600/IMG_0424.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FqQe3PbER_4/UCwxn0oAoOI/AAAAAAAAB7I/AwCHyBoMsto/s200/IMG_0424.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
This square is very famous. It was the stage for the 1989 protests and since then has been a symbol of the Chinese regime authoritarianism. There are cameras everywhere and you'll have to go through an X-ray machine to get in. There are many identified and disguised cops. Political subjects <i>should not </i>be discussed here. A Belgian friend went through the experience of being checked by cops after starting a discussion about politics with a Chinese man.</div>
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It's the largest public square in the world, but, I didn't have such infinity impression when I was there. Nowadays there's a huge building in the center of the square that quite breaks the idea of endless extension. Anyway, it's one of <i>Beijing</i>'s most visited monuments, and, for free.</div>
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This is one of the places in whole China where you can be sure about being targeted by scammers. Couples, girls, boys, lonely people, etc., everybody will show up to ask you about your trip, who you are and what you're going to do under the pretext of practicing English, learn something else, etc. If after 5-10 minutes of conversation these people offer you to go somewhere else to: a) see an art gallery; b) drink some beers; c) take part in a tea ceremony; d) etc; DON'T GO! This is the most famous scam with tourists in China. They are likely to target lonely travelers much more. Chinese people are often shy and in general will NEVER invite you to go somewhere else if you haven't talked or had any reason to share trust in each other. </div>
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<b><i>Forbidden City </i></b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pcqRUrQ-YAc/UCw2ZxCXZNI/AAAAAAAAB70/5LYPFYRLzcc/s1600/IMG_0432.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pcqRUrQ-YAc/UCw2ZxCXZNI/AAAAAAAAB70/5LYPFYRLzcc/s200/IMG_0432.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;"><i>Meridian Gate</i> seen from Tiananmen Square</td></tr>
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The Forbidden City is a huge complex of Imperial Palaces built between 1406 and 1420 with 980 buildings placed in 720,000 m². It's accounted by UNESCO as the largest wooden made preserved complex in the world. The entrance tickets cost you 60 <i>kuai </i>per person - students, even with non-international students IDs, are entitle to the discount. It's possible to take a mobile guide device for extra 40 <i>kuai</i> which will explain you the complex step by step - recommended. The name <i>"Forbidden City" </i>derives from the emperors behavior of almost never leaving the place and the severe toll applied to those who were caught inside without invitation, death.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C8tNzRgJtB4/UCw79Eip5oI/AAAAAAAAB8g/Z3Uv3i_rAYc/s1600/Untitled_Panorama1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="79" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C8tNzRgJtB4/UCw79Eip5oI/AAAAAAAAB8g/Z3Uv3i_rAYc/s320/Untitled_Panorama1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">The view of the <i>Supreme Harmony Hall</i></td></tr>
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In fact, it's a very impressive and beautiful place. The complex exemplifies the Classical Chinese architecture with many aligned halls, gates and walls rectangular shaped in the North-South axis and secondary buildings places in the East-West areas (however following the same rules of rectangular placed halls).<br />
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Besides the standard circuit there are some extra-paid collections in exhibition. I went to two of it, of the clocks and the emperors jewels, and I think it was worth it. 10 <i>kuai </i>each.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Xr5DHXW2jDM/UCw-eQM_IAI/AAAAAAAAB8w/p0YkkXD7LLE/s1600/IMG_0580.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Xr5DHXW2jDM/UCw-eQM_IAI/AAAAAAAAB8w/p0YkkXD7LLE/s200/IMG_0580.JPG" width="133" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-f9YTPaE17_k/UCw98_709sI/AAAAAAAAB8o/M6Cl7JS8t80/s1600/IMG_0534.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-f9YTPaE17_k/UCw98_709sI/AAAAAAAAB8o/M6Cl7JS8t80/s200/IMG_0534.JPG" width="133" /></a></div>
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The greatest challenge while visiting the Forbidden City is to keep your passe and do not fall tired. Even though if you look at the map the area seems to be not that big, believe me, it is. And after 2-3 huge halls in a row you may start to loose interest. Therefore it's better to have plenty of time to visit it allowing yourself to sit, eat and rest. If possible, also buy water and food before getting in since prices can be significantly higher.<br />
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<b><i>Jingshan Hill</i></b><br />
<b><i><br /></i></b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2Q9Ya5kGggj8QqBLBGmm3eqsL_CahuEmW2FdHELTxYYBbuWngo4SLsJJ-SXvuHKhGglnIx6IlTApH169n2H13pRQGnrRCngbtaVuPt0nE6hwWWWtlLS_8QTGL6F9r7DZVqx9Q3yAGvBTq/s1600/IMG_0632.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2Q9Ya5kGggj8QqBLBGmm3eqsL_CahuEmW2FdHELTxYYBbuWngo4SLsJJ-SXvuHKhGglnIx6IlTApH169n2H13pRQGnrRCngbtaVuPt0nE6hwWWWtlLS_8QTGL6F9r7DZVqx9Q3yAGvBTq/s200/IMG_0632.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
Just behind the Forbidden City there's a small park and inside, a hill with a Buddhist temple. However, the most interesting think it's not the temple or the park itself but the views over the Forbidden City at the top. 10 <i>kuai </i>to get inside.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Panorama picture of the Forbidden City</td></tr>
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<b><i>Temple of Heaven </i></b><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QzB4UQLQ2Wc/UCxNgPT6_qI/AAAAAAAAB-Q/GtevFtKdr4g/s1600/IMG_0830.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QzB4UQLQ2Wc/UCxNgPT6_qI/AAAAAAAAB-Q/GtevFtKdr4g/s200/IMG_0830.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
This is an area of religious constructions built at the same time of the Forbidden City. Besides the Temple of Heaven, as the main attraction, there's also the Temple of the Sun, of the Earth and of the Moon. Chinese emperors of Qing and Ming dynasties came here annually to ask for a good harvest. This place has also been recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Place and definitely is part of the main tourist route in <i>Beijing</i>. The size of the park circles all the temples and cannot be understated so take at least half of day to cover the whole area. I cannot remember the prices exactly but it was quite cheaper if you buy a through ticket covering all the attractions rather than buying one by one. The place is easily accessible on subway.<br />
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It's also interesting to notice that from now on the blue lively color of the pictures will be replaced by the gray washed color. By one hand that means lower temperatures, by the other hand it clear states the pollution problem in <i>Beijing</i>. Called as <i>smog (smoke + fog) </i>this is a recurrent and modern problem originated from the quick industrialization process around the capital. As a consequence, many times one cannot see the horizon.<br />
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<b><i></i></b><b><i>Summer Palace </i></b></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><i>Suzhou Street</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;"><i>Tower of Buddhist Incense</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iPUGZkm1r9Q/UCzkHQttOnI/AAAAAAAAB_E/yfwWF5VoT5s/s200/IMG_1016.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="200" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;"><i>Marble Boat</i></td></tr>
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This palace was built with the purpose of offering a fresh and green environment to the imperial family during <i>Beijing's </i>hot and humid summers - temperatures can climb over 40oC. The most remarkable elements of the palace are the Longevity Hill and Lake Kunming. Since most of the scenery is artificial, the palace is taken as a fine sample of Chinese classical garden construction techniques. Like the Temple of Heaven, it's possible to acquire a through ticket with a total price lower than buying each entrance at the time. It's easily accessible through subway. As I had told you before, the <i>smog </i>makes an obstacle to look at the tower in the Longevity Hill. From the farthest point of the lake the tower would simply disappear.<br />
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<b><i>Wangfujing Street</i></b><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;"><i>Wangfujing Street</i></td></tr>
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This is one of the most famous shopping streets in <i>Beijing</i>, for tourists and locals. It's a huge street, bigger than 3 km, with a significant part of it exclusive to pedestrians, thus a good option to walk and relax after an intense tour day. During the night all the signs and neons are turned on and the street gains life with colors and lights. There's also a great collection of high end brands stores, trendy stuff in Chinese modern consumer behavior.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VBDbMCrgceA/UCzoogceP3I/AAAAAAAACAM/_abLLVgKaKk/s1600/IMG_0756.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VBDbMCrgceA/UCzoogceP3I/AAAAAAAACAM/_abLLVgKaKk/s200/IMG_0756.JPG" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5n3Gw5Q8ei7glr5l3oQ_f7U9yrXdpWCmghghBtNFTXYvv308m-wVo7v9rMzs6zosSrOqSnf-D76tK7WskGe5s8CmFBnaG6rmhgZjhVFsPWQedFyNYGlqMkXRWSenX1LEYB07SNv8NuwO0/s1600/IMG_0743.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5n3Gw5Q8ei7glr5l3oQ_f7U9yrXdpWCmghghBtNFTXYvv308m-wVo7v9rMzs6zosSrOqSnf-D76tK7WskGe5s8CmFBnaG6rmhgZjhVFsPWQedFyNYGlqMkXRWSenX1LEYB07SNv8NuwO0/s200/IMG_0743.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
In one of the crossing streets you can find the <i>weird food</i> area, actually the easiest place to find it in my whole experience in China. Shark, starfish, cockroaches, squids, scorpions, etc. Apparently, in China, everything can be put in a stick. You won't be the only person to get impressed and many other fellow tourists will take pictures and <i>rarely </i>try any of that. However, given that Chinese population is way bigger than any tourist group, you'll mostly see the Chinese people eating the exotic food in front of you. If that's going to be your first time in Asia or the first time with <i>weird food</i>, it's really worth it to go there and check even if you don't actually plan to eat it. No, I didn't eat any weird stick... haha<br />
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<b><i>Seconday Circuit</i></b><br />
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This circuit applies more to the temple that have plenty of time or, energy to make things in a rush. Even though these places do represent the history and local culture, its impressiveness - my opinion - is inferior to the main circuit.<br />
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<b><i>Lama Temple</i></b><br />
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This is one of the largest temples of Tibetan Buddhism in the world. It started to be built as an official residence but in 1722 it was converted in a Tibetan lamasery. Tibetan Buddhism was practiced in Mongolia and Tibet and thus explains why a significant part of the religious signs were written in three languages - Chinese, Tibetan and Manchu. The access is possible through <i>Lama Temple </i>subway station.<br />
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<b><i>Confucius Temple</i></b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cR3MOde5QEM/UCzzg5DSiNI/AAAAAAAACBs/o2MGjCkxigU/s1600/IMG_0934.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cR3MOde5QEM/UCzzg5DSiNI/AAAAAAAACBs/o2MGjCkxigU/s200/IMG_0934.JPG" width="133" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Confucius statue</td></tr>
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The most interesting thing about Confucius Temple is not the architecture, objects or anything else. It's the own history and concepts about Confucius philosophy. Confucius was a philosopher, professor, politician and editor and left his mark in history and culture not only of China but from the whole world. Confucius conceptualized the idea of <i>public examinations and college admission tests</i>, the first because he understood that <i>the best should be chosen to manage the public administration </i>and the second since applying through a "blind" admission test to the participants characteristics would allow poor and rich people to compete in the same basis and thus creating a democratic way to access education. Moreover, education it's the root itself of Confucius philosophy. Seek for knowledge and improve. The concept of meritocracy thus was founded a long time ago. In the museum you can find also an analysis about China's economic power related to Confucius philosophy ruling Chinese society. So strong this culture was it has disseminated to other countries. Which other countries are famous for the educational achievements and competitiveness? Japan, Korea, Singapore, all places which had Confucius philosophy well established.<br />
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Uma associação local, qual o percentual de descendentes de japoneses, chineses e coreanos ante a população brasileira? E qual é o percentual nas universidades? Pois é, você já entendeu.<br />
<b><i><br /></i></b><b><i>Hutongs</i></b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXxIvGmb8hUzZnoVMXBq8p9jEes25FoScdspUAtuCE0VX1myBkDa81XeWwqAIeH2FUD5SVOU8Ndiut_hzYS89JG9L81XftIS9jG4RBvmaoUsymc2cN5p6xorQ6pX5BH4uwCm9W7pYnswvK/s1600/IMG_1144.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXxIvGmb8hUzZnoVMXBq8p9jEes25FoScdspUAtuCE0VX1myBkDa81XeWwqAIeH2FUD5SVOU8Ndiut_hzYS89JG9L81XftIS9jG4RBvmaoUsymc2cN5p6xorQ6pX5BH4uwCm9W7pYnswvK/s200/IMG_1144.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Chineses jogando cartas em um <i>hutong</i></td></tr>
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The <i>hutongs </i>are the essence of what allows <i>Beijing </i>to be a 19 million people metropolis and at the same time a small village with people riding their bicycles, rickshaws, etc, or buying livestock and cooking at small stalls in the streets. Thus, the <i>hutongs </i>are the popular part of the city. After the Cultural Revolution these areas which were built centuries ago started to be put down in order to make room to wide boulevards and avenues in perfect square and oversized Comunist architecture. However, what lasted in recent years is going through a different process. Given the touristic potential of the <i>hutongs</i>, now you will notice that <i>Beijing </i>is looking for restoring and even rebuilding this ancient architecture style.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_26ICYA2coM/UCz1upO3a9I/AAAAAAAACB8/qVOzHu_qeAo/s1600/IMG_1173.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_26ICYA2coM/UCz1upO3a9I/AAAAAAAACB8/qVOzHu_qeAo/s200/IMG_1173.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
It's interesting to walk through the <i>hutongs </i>without a closed itinerary, just walking and walking and getting lost and then finding your way again. Each corner reveals a different situation, people cooking, playing cards or drinking traditional and delicious <i>Beijing </i>yogurt. It's a free tour and very interesting and for those who like popular and local stuff it will be a blast.<br />
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<b><i>Richard!</i></b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOIylAs0aJcIr6Gp6eu2CMovL6hlLYkPmb_AYiAdoiN6n6Vim1NKTbfbA7mZkKHAjh0ZaDX31_4USdBsLzfqn1fW-OAKsy6yTjWU7Dk7YGJdrCHZBq9oLn3mxBuh8qSgkofGh4l9C24U5O/s1600/IMG_1097.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOIylAs0aJcIr6Gp6eu2CMovL6hlLYkPmb_AYiAdoiN6n6Vim1NKTbfbA7mZkKHAjh0ZaDX31_4USdBsLzfqn1fW-OAKsy6yTjWU7Dk7YGJdrCHZBq9oLn3mxBuh8qSgkofGh4l9C24U5O/s200/IMG_1097.JPG" width="200" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-p_QtMSQFySs/UC0-C7hNmhI/AAAAAAAACCs/Dm_kYrHezTU/s1600/IMG_1094.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-p_QtMSQFySs/UC0-C7hNmhI/AAAAAAAACCs/Dm_kYrHezTU/s200/IMG_1094.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
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Since I already had stayed at <i>Jony's </i>house through <i>Couchsurfing</i>, I looked for another place in <i>Beijing</i>. I ended up staying in <i>Richard's </i>apartment. He's Australian, works for the embassy of his country and he's married to a Chinese from <i>Hong Kong </i>who lived most of her life in Australia too. He has been in <i>Beijing </i>for many years and knows the city pretty well. It was a nice experience, I could talk a lot with him and understand through the eyes of a long term expat how's the experience and interaction with China and Chinese people. Besides that he took me to try some gastronomic delicacies in the region that I'd surely wouldn't find on my own - <i>dumplings </i>from <i>Beijing</i>, black eggs and "Dinossaur" legs... haha.<br />
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<b><i>Buying a train ticket</i></b><br />
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This is one of the major challenges for the independent traveler who doesn't speak Chinese, buying a train ticket to your next destination. First thing: assume that no teller - including those appointed by the electronic panel - is capable of speaking English. Second thing: try to make that some English-Chinese speaker goes with you to the counter. Third thing: if the second thing doesn't work ask someone to write it down in Chinese what you want including all the details and alternatives in case your initial idea is not available. In case you have a closed itinerary - as I had - it's very efficient to book all the tickets at once and you can try doing that from some big city like <i>Beijing </i>or asking a travel agent. This website <a href="http://www.seat61.com/">www.seat61.com</a> (look for China) it's a very good reference about traveling by train.<br />
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Well, I needed to get my ticket to <i>Datong </i>for Friday night so I wouldn't need a hotel when I get there. However, at the counter I found that the only train available would depart on Friday afternoon. I mean, a Belgian - lost as I was but able to speak some Chinese - found that and helped my to book my ticket. It was my first (and last) time in a sleeping birth train, and by the way, I could not remember about taking a train anymore except when I was very young and little and trains still used to run in Brazil!<br />
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<b>Next post:</b> The Great Wall of China!</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02152018193849879223noreply@blogger.com1Beijing, China39.904214 116.40741339.514448 115.775699 40.293980000000005 117.03912700000001tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4089077439641967020.post-10747257014210910052012-08-17T02:09:00.000+07:002012-10-04T05:20:14.080+07:005 dias em Beijing<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b>Post anterior: </b><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/08/o-portal-da-china-hong-kong.html">O portal da China: Hong Kong</a></div>
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<b><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/08/5-days-in-beijing.html">English Version</a></b></div>
<i><b>Introdução</b></i></div>
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<i>Beijing </i>é uma megalópole de mais de 19 milhões de pessoas e ocupa uma posição central na cultura e nos costumes do povo chinês. A cidade começou a ser formada entre os séculos 11 e 7 antes de Cristo e passou por diversas invasões dos povos ao norte da China. Tendo servido também como capital imperial, não é de se estranhar que a cidade represente tudo isso claramente em seus símbolos, arquitetura, palácios, etc. É a representação da China como um todo, dos áureos tempos como uma próspera economia milenar, até sua decadência e ressurreição no último século. Qualquer pessoa que disponha de pouco tempo para viajar por esse país gigante pode apostar aqui todas as suas fichas. Da mesma forma aqueles que pretendem explorá-lo em mais detalhes não podem de forma alguma esquecer de <i>Beijing</i>.</div>
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<b><i>Dicas importantes para quem quer viajar na China</i></b></div>
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<i>Dinheiro</i></div>
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Por hora, alguns detalhes. A moeda chinesa é o RMB, também chamado de <i>reminbi </i>ou <i>yuan </i>ou <i>kuai </i>e significa <i>moeda do povo</i>. 1 USD = 6,34 RMB. Você só pode fazer câmbio em hotéis, empresas específicas de câmbio e bancos. Na prática, pelo país, você só vai trocar em bancos por isso é bom trocar volumes de US$ 300-400 por vez pois eles têm horário específico de funcionamento e o processo demora pelo menos 1/2 hora cada vez. A moeda de <i>Hong Kong</i>, HKD, não é válida na China continental. Além disso, a cada troca você vai receber um comprovante que lhe dará direito de revender os RMB que sobrarem no final da viagem. Não é possível fazer isso fora da China portanto não esqueça de gastar ou trocar todos os seus <i>kuai </i>antes de deixar o país.</div>
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<i>Idioma</i></div>
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Outro fato importante: <i style="font-weight: bold;"><u>na China continental inglês não é falado de forma abrangente</u></i> por isso evite ficar perdido. Compre mapas e guias de forma antecipada e evite precisar de informações em lugares ou horários em que seja difícil encontrar outras pessoas. DE MANEIRA GERAL, estudantes (pessoas jovens) são capazes de falar inglês básico a intermediário, geralmente o suficiente pra te indicar onde ir, o que comprar, o que fazer, etc. Não tenha medo de perguntar a eles. Isso se mostrou possível em todos os lugares pelos quais passei. Se possível aprenda coisas básicas em mandarim como números, direções, questões típicas referentes a compra de tickets de trem, etc. Tudo irá te ajudar muito, acredite!</div>
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Uma saída que eu utilizei com freqüência era reunir toda a informação crítica para que eu chegasse a um determinado lugar e então pedir para o pessoal do hostel (que geralmente fala inglês intermediário pelo menos) escrever tudo em chinês em um papelzinho. Tendo <i>o que você quiser</i> <i>escrito em chinês</i>, QUALQUER pessoa pode ajudá-lo dando indicações para onde ir. </div>
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<i>Hospedagem</i></div>
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Fora de grandes cidades como <i>Beijing, Shanghai, Xi'An, </i>etc., pode ser difícil encontrar um hostel. Mesmo que seja possível encontrá-los pode ser muito difícil conseguir vaga sem reserva antecipada. Portanto, recomendo entre 1-2 dias de antecedência fazer uma reserva pela internet pra grandes cidades e 3-5 dias pra lugares menores e com menor oferta de hospedagens. Os sites <a href="http://www.hostelbookers.com/">www.hostelbookers.com</a> e <a href="http://www.hostelworld.com/">www.hostelworld.com</a> podem te ajudar tranquilamente a conseguir onde ficar. Uma cama em um dormitório deverá custar em média entre USD 7-9/noite e é a forma padrão mais barata de se viajar. Não espere que o seu hostel ofereça serviços como reserva de ônibus, trens, tours ou qualquer coisa do tipo. Em geral os hostels são exclusivamente para se dormir.</div>
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<i>Alimentação</i></div>
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Você pode ficar 1 mês na China e ter uma experiência completamente baseada em McDonald's, KFC e PizzaHut similar a qualquer lugar no mundo ou pode ter uma experiência gastrônomica riquíssima com comida local comprada em barraquinhas de rua ou em pequenos estabelecimentos. A primeira deve custar cerca de 30-50 <i>kuai</i> por refeição e a segunda entre 10-20. A opção é sua.</div>
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<i>Transporte</i></div>
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De maneira geral as grandes cidades chinesas possuem um vasto sistema de transportes com uma eficaz e moderna linha de metrô. As linhas de metrô têm identificação em inglês e chinês e portanto serão seu melhor aliado. Os preços variam entre uma cidade e outro mas sempre vi algo entre 2 e 4 <i>kuai</i> com a maioria dos lugares cobrando apenas 2 - o benefício proporcionado por esse modal de transporte torna o preço ridiculamente barato quando comparado com o que pagamos em São Paulo por exemplo. Não tente pegar ônibus se você não souber exatamente a linha e o ponto que você vai descer. Taxistas não sabem inglês e portanto peça para alguém escrever em chinês onde você quer ir.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.jinglunhotelbeijing.com/images/beijing-subway.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="208" src="http://www.jinglunhotelbeijing.com/images/beijing-subway.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mapa do metrô de <i>Beijing</i></td></tr>
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<i>Comunicação</i></div>
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Comunicação via celular na China é muito barata. Além disso, ter um número local vai facilitar muito todos os arranjos de viagem entre uma cidade e outro, tours, etc. Por isso é altamente recomendável adquirir um chip de uma operadora local. Infelizmente eu não sei muito bem como orientar nessa parte pois o <i>Zhengyu</i> me ajudou com isso porém Google ajuda a todos! :)</div>
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<b><i>Chegada</i></b></div>
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Meu vôo, atrasado, de <i>Hong Kong</i> chegou mais de 1h da madrugada em <i>Beijing</i>. Já estava cansado e não tinha mais esperanças de que o <i>Jony</i>, meu <i>Couchsurf</i> host, fosse me buscar. Porém, passada a alfândega lá estava ele me esperando. Ele me ajudou a carregar as coisas e me levou até a casa dele onde conversamos um pouco sobre meus planos de viagem, o trabalho dele numa companhia aérea, etc. Infelizmente ele pode me hospedar apenas aquela noite mas foi uma ajuda enorme e deixei um cartão-postal do Camboja em gratidão.</div>
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Na manhã seguinte tive meu primeiro desafio, encontrar um banco e uma estação de metrô nos arredores do apartamento do <i>Jony</i>. O choque de China começou ali mesmo. Estávamos num bairro periférico, nos arredores do aeroporto, porém a sensação era de ter sido transportado para uma cidade norte-americana. Ruas largas, bem sinalizadas, vazias, com jardins e árvores, prédios com recuo, e o formato quadrangular dos quarteirões. Hunm..</div>
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Acabei achando o metrô depois de tentar perguntar a algumas pessoas onde ele ficava pronunciando a palavra metrô em chinês: <i>Dítié</i>. Eu ainda não tinha reservado hostel em <i>Beijing </i>e já era quase 10h da manhã. Portanto, duas opções: topar o desafio de carregar toda a minha bagagem comigo o dia inteiro e no final tentar achar um hostel ou, achar primeiro o hostel e perder um dia de tour. Pesei os riscos e para tristeza do meu pé, ombros e costas escolhi a primeira.<br />
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<b><i>Circuito Primário</i></b><br />
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Aqui vou descrever a agenda que seria o <i>essencial </i>para o visitante médio pela primeira vez a <i>Beijing</i>. Além disso, eu adicionaria a Grande Muralha da China, que será discutida em um post separado devido à toda sua importância.</div>
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<b><i>Tiananmen Square (Praça da Paz Celestial)</i></b></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FqQe3PbER_4/UCwxn0oAoOI/AAAAAAAAB7I/AwCHyBoMsto/s1600/IMG_0424.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FqQe3PbER_4/UCwxn0oAoOI/AAAAAAAAB7I/AwCHyBoMsto/s200/IMG_0424.JPG" width="200" /></a>Essa praça é muito famosa. Foi palco dos<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tiananmen_Square_protests_of_1989"> protestos de 1989</a> e desde então um símbolo do autoritarismo do regime chinês. Há câmeras em todos os lugares da praça, e é necessário passar por um detector de metais antes de entrar nela. Há uma quantidade enorme de policiais fardados e à paisana. Assuntos políticos <i>não devem </i>ser comentados, falados, etc., nessa área. Um amigo belga passou pela experiência de ser abordado por policiais por ter iniciado esse tipo de assunto com um chinês enquanto visitava o lugar.</div>
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É a maior praça pública do mundo, porém, eu não achei que você realmente tem essa impressão de infinidade. Atualmente há uma grande prédio no meio dela que acaba quebrando a idéia de espaço amplo. De qualquer forma é um dos monumentos de <i>Beijing </i>e visitá-lo é parte do roteiro, além de ser de graça. </div>
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<b>Cuidado: </b>Esse é um dos poucos lugares da China toda em que você com certeza estará na mira de golpistas. Aparecerão casais, grupos de amigas, grupos de amigos, pessoas sozinhas, etc., querendo conversar sobre a sua viagem, quem você é e o que você vai fazer sobre o pretexto de praticar inglês, aprender alguma coisa, etc. Se após 5-10 minutos de conversa essas pessoas propuserem de ir a um outro lugar: a) ver uma galera; b) tomar uma cerveja; c) participar de uma cerimônia de chá; d) etc; não vá. É o golpe mais famoso e clássico com turistas na China. A abordagem tende a ser muito mais freqüente com viajantes sozinhos. Cheguei a ser abordado por mais de 5 grupos em menos de 1h. Chinese são muito tímidos e de maneira geral NUNCA vão te convidar pra ir a lugar algum sem que vocês tenham conversado razoavelmente bastante e tenham tido algum motivo para estabelecer confiança um no outro.</div>
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<b><i>Forbidden City (Cidade Proibida)</i></b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pcqRUrQ-YAc/UCw2ZxCXZNI/AAAAAAAAB70/5LYPFYRLzcc/s1600/IMG_0432.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pcqRUrQ-YAc/UCw2ZxCXZNI/AAAAAAAAB70/5LYPFYRLzcc/s200/IMG_0432.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Meridian Gate</i> visto da Praça da Paz Celestial</td></tr>
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A Cidade Proibida é um complexo de palácios imperiais construído entre 1406 e 1420 com 980 construções ocupando uma área de 720.000 m². É considerado pela UNESCO como o maior conjunto de construções de madeira preservadas do mundo. A entrada custa 60 <i>kuai</i> por pessoa - estudantes, inclusive com carteirinhas de outros países têm desconto. É possível pegar um tradutor móvel por mais 40 <i>kuai </i>que irá explicar o complexo - recomendável. O nome <i>"Cidade Proibida" </i>se devia ao fato dos imperadores pouco ou quase nunca saírem de lá e também a severa punição para aqueles que entrassem sem serem convidados, morte.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C8tNzRgJtB4/UCw79Eip5oI/AAAAAAAAB8g/Z3Uv3i_rAYc/s1600/Untitled_Panorama1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="79" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C8tNzRgJtB4/UCw79Eip5oI/AAAAAAAAB8g/Z3Uv3i_rAYc/s320/Untitled_Panorama1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vista do <i>Supreme Harmony Hall</i></td></tr>
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De fato, é um lugar muito bonito e muito impressionante. O complexo exemplifica a arquitetura chinesa clássica com vários pátios alinhados, portões e muros em formas retangulares no eixo norte-sul e construções acessórias nas alas leste e oeste (porém obedecendo à mesma lógica de formas retangulares e pátios).<br />
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Além do circuito padrão existem algumas coleção pagas para exibição. Fui em duas, dos relógios e jóias dos imperadores, e achei que valeu muito a pena. Custou 10 <i>kuai </i>cada.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Xr5DHXW2jDM/UCw-eQM_IAI/AAAAAAAAB8w/p0YkkXD7LLE/s1600/IMG_0580.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Xr5DHXW2jDM/UCw-eQM_IAI/AAAAAAAAB8w/p0YkkXD7LLE/s200/IMG_0580.JPG" width="133" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-f9YTPaE17_k/UCw98_709sI/AAAAAAAAB8o/M6Cl7JS8t80/s1600/IMG_0534.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-f9YTPaE17_k/UCw98_709sI/AAAAAAAAB8o/M6Cl7JS8t80/s200/IMG_0534.JPG" width="133" /></a></div>
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O grande desafio quando visitando a Cidade Proibida é aguentar o cansaço e manter o pique. Embora se você olhar num mapa a área não pareça tão grande, acredite, é. E depois de 2-3 pátios seguidos as coisas podem começar a parecer "mesma coisa". Por isso, é melhor reservar bastante tempo para a visita de forma que você possa sentar, comer e descansar entre uma coisa e outra. Se possível compre água e comida antes de entrar pois os preços tendem a ser bem mais caros lá dentro.<br />
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<b><i>Jingshan Hill</i></b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2Q9Ya5kGggj8QqBLBGmm3eqsL_CahuEmW2FdHELTxYYBbuWngo4SLsJJ-SXvuHKhGglnIx6IlTApH169n2H13pRQGnrRCngbtaVuPt0nE6hwWWWtlLS_8QTGL6F9r7DZVqx9Q3yAGvBTq/s1600/IMG_0632.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2Q9Ya5kGggj8QqBLBGmm3eqsL_CahuEmW2FdHELTxYYBbuWngo4SLsJJ-SXvuHKhGglnIx6IlTApH169n2H13pRQGnrRCngbtaVuPt0nE6hwWWWtlLS_8QTGL6F9r7DZVqx9Q3yAGvBTq/s200/IMG_0632.JPG" width="200" /></a>Exatamente atrás da Cidade Proibida há um pequeno parque e dentro dele um morro com um templo budista. Porém, o mais interessante dali não é o templo nem o parque mas poder ver a Cidade Proibida de cima. Custa cerca de 10 <i>kuai</i> a entrada do parque.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QPHtoggIeps/UCxJ2f-FjmI/AAAAAAAAB9k/1_Upp1c-XDM/s1600/Untitled_Panorama1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="81" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QPHtoggIeps/UCxJ2f-FjmI/AAAAAAAAB9k/1_Upp1c-XDM/s320/Untitled_Panorama1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Foto panorâmica da Cidade Proibida</td></tr>
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<b><i>Temple of Heaven (Templo dos Céus)</i></b><br />
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Essa é uma área de construções religiosas que foi construída na mesma época da Cidade Proibida. Além do Templo dos Céus, como o principal, há o templo do Sol, da Terra e da Lua. Imperadores chineses das dinastias Qing e Ming costumavam vir anualmente ao templo para pedir por um ano de boas colheitas. Esse também é um local reconhecido como patrimônio cultural da humanidade pela UNESCO e com certeza faz parte da agenda básica do visitante a <i>Beijing</i>. O tamanho do parque que circunscreve todos os templos não pode ser desprezado e guarde pelo menos metade do dia para conhecer toda a área. Não lembro o preço exato mas é mais barato comprar direto um ticket que dá entrada a todos os templos do que comprá-los individualmente. O local é facilmente acessível por metrô.<br />
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É também legal notar que daqui pra frente o azul vivo das fotos iniciais é substituído por cinza e uma atmosfera de neblina. Por um lado se isso mantém as temperaturas mais baixas e suportáveis, por outro mostra o problema da poluição que assola <i>Beijing </i>o ano todo. Chamada <i>smog (smoke + fog) </i>esse é um problema direto da industrialização massiva e rápida ao redor da capital. Como conseqüência muitas vezes não se vê o horizonte.<br />
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<b><i>Summer Palace (Palácio de Verão)</i></b></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eIY5KAD-ShE/UCzjkVS_R2I/AAAAAAAAB-8/d6wiUTLe1X0/s1600/IMG_0963.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eIY5KAD-ShE/UCzjkVS_R2I/AAAAAAAAB-8/d6wiUTLe1X0/s320/IMG_0963.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Suzhou Street</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_u5acFDXOno/UCzkhI-LIDI/AAAAAAAAB_M/yt_2sJOlm2A/s1600/IMG_1060.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_u5acFDXOno/UCzkhI-LIDI/AAAAAAAAB_M/yt_2sJOlm2A/s200/IMG_1060.JPG" width="133" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Tower of Buddhist Incense</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iPUGZkm1r9Q/UCzkHQttOnI/AAAAAAAAB_E/yfwWF5VoT5s/s200/IMG_1016.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="200" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Marble Boat</i></td></tr>
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Esse palácio foi construído como propósito de oferecer um ambiente mais fresco e verde para a família imperial durante o verão quente e úmido de <i>Beijing </i>- temperaturas podem chegar até mais de 40oC. Os dois mais marcantes elementos do palácio são o Morro da Longevidade e o Lago Kunming. Dado que boa parte do cenário é artificial, o palácio acaba sendo um fino exemplo das técnicas clássicas chinesas de construção de jardins. Tal qual o Templo dos Céus, é possível adquirir um ticket que dá acesso a diversas atrações por um preço total mais baixo do que se comprado separadamente. O acesso também é muito fácil por transporte público. Como eu já tinha falado lá em cima, a <i>smog </i>deixa você ver com dificuldades a torre em cima do Morro da Longevidade. Do ponto mais afastado do lago a torre simplesmente desaparecia.<br />
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<b><i>Wangfujing Street</i></b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1bAjlk0m1pA/UCznuoJnwDI/AAAAAAAAB_8/gWbokV8rOp0/s1600/IMG_0646.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1bAjlk0m1pA/UCznuoJnwDI/AAAAAAAAB_8/gWbokV8rOp0/s200/IMG_0646.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Wangfujing Street</i></td></tr>
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Essa é uma das ruas mais famosas para compras em <i>Beijing</i>, tanto para turistas quanto locais. Trata-se de uma rua enorme, maior do que 3 km, mas com boa parte dela na forma de calçadão portanto uma boa opção para andar e relaxar ao final de um dia de tour intenso. Durante a noite todos os letreiros e neons são ligados e a rua ganha muita vida com tantas cores e luzes. Há também uma grande coleção de lojas famosas e de marca, nova tendência no consumo chinês.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VBDbMCrgceA/UCzoogceP3I/AAAAAAAACAM/_abLLVgKaKk/s1600/IMG_0756.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VBDbMCrgceA/UCzoogceP3I/AAAAAAAACAM/_abLLVgKaKk/s200/IMG_0756.JPG" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5n3Gw5Q8ei7glr5l3oQ_f7U9yrXdpWCmghghBtNFTXYvv308m-wVo7v9rMzs6zosSrOqSnf-D76tK7WskGe5s8CmFBnaG6rmhgZjhVFsPWQedFyNYGlqMkXRWSenX1LEYB07SNv8NuwO0/s1600/IMG_0743.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5n3Gw5Q8ei7glr5l3oQ_f7U9yrXdpWCmghghBtNFTXYvv308m-wVo7v9rMzs6zosSrOqSnf-D76tK7WskGe5s8CmFBnaG6rmhgZjhVFsPWQedFyNYGlqMkXRWSenX1LEYB07SNv8NuwO0/s200/IMG_0743.JPG" width="200" /></a>Em uma das travessas dessa rua é possível encontrar a área das <i>comidas estranhas</i>, na verdade a mais facilmente identificável e acessível que eu vi em toda a China. Espetinhos de tubarão, estrela-do-mar, baratas, lulas, escorpiões, etc. Aparentemente, na China, tudo pode ser colocado em um espeto. Além de você impressionado haverá muitos outros turistas estrangeiros tirando fotos. Porém, dado que a população chinesa é absurdamente maior do que qualquer contingente de turistas, em um número muito mais significativo serão as pessoas comendo as coisas estranhas na sua frente. Se essa vai ser sua primeira vez na Ásia ou o primeiro contato com essa culinária tão exótica, vale muito a pena passar por ali nem que seja pra ficar apenas na observação. Aos curiosos: não, eu não comi nenhum espeto estranho.. haha<br />
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<b><i>Circuito Secundário</i></b><br />
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Esse circuito é mais aplicável às pessoas que dispõem de mais tempo ou, mais disposição de fazer as coisas numa intensidade maior. Embora esses lugares representem sim parte da história e cultura locais, sua imponência - na minha opinião - é inferior ao circuito primário.<br />
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<b><i>Lama Temple</i></b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMuJ6uk-iWFUHK0BhpgD_-ZZQri94f3K_phHfiq7mlPeUEXxjcOt1bfvLXLDemN3MI6Ewtxwefh-DuTUqpnKMwqGYvp_MGbrYIofB2la-reJg-TsBtUoDWbfiDG1xvYguwLfYScQBS9c5c/s1600/IMG_0897.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMuJ6uk-iWFUHK0BhpgD_-ZZQri94f3K_phHfiq7mlPeUEXxjcOt1bfvLXLDemN3MI6Ewtxwefh-DuTUqpnKMwqGYvp_MGbrYIofB2la-reJg-TsBtUoDWbfiDG1xvYguwLfYScQBS9c5c/s200/IMG_0897.JPG" width="200" /></a>Esse é um dos maiores templos de budismo tibetano do mundo. Começou a ser construído em 1694 durante a dinastia Qing como uma residência oficial mas em 1722 foi convertido em um monastério tibetano. O budismo tibetano era praticado na Mongólia e no Tibet e isso portanto explica porque uma grande parte das placas religiosas no monastérias estão expressas em três línguas - chinês, tibetano e manchu. O acesso é muito fácil pela estação de metrô <i>Lama Temple</i>.<br />
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<b><i>Confucius Temple</i></b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cR3MOde5QEM/UCzzg5DSiNI/AAAAAAAACBs/o2MGjCkxigU/s1600/IMG_0934.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cR3MOde5QEM/UCzzg5DSiNI/AAAAAAAACBs/o2MGjCkxigU/s200/IMG_0934.JPG" width="133" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Estátua de Confúcio</td></tr>
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O mais interessante desse templo de Confúcio não é a arquitetura, objetos ou qualquer coisa assim. É a própria história e os conceitos da filosofia confucionista. Confúcio foi um filósofo, educador, político e editor que deixou uma marca milena na história e cultura não apenas da China mas do mundo todo. Confúcio está por trás da criação do conceito de <i>concurso público </i>e <i>vestibulares </i>sendo o primeiro pelo entendimento de que os <i>melhores deveriam ser escolhidos para administrar a coisas pública </i>e o segundo pelo fato de que ao se ter uma prova cega às características de seus aplicantes, tanto pobres e ricos deverão provar que são os melhores naquilo criando-se portanto uma via de democratização ao acesso à educação. Aliás, a educação é o próprio cerne da filosofia confucionista. Buscar o conhecimento e o aprimoramento. O conceito de meritocracia portanto foi fundado há muito tempo atrás. No museu ainda havia uma análise de que o poderio econômico da China foi tão maior quanto a filosofia confucionista dominou o país. Tão forte é essa cultura ela se disseminou por outros lugares. Quais outros países são famosos pela excelência educacional e a competitividade? Japão, Coréia, Cingapura, todos lugares em que houve disseminação da filosofia confucionista.<br />
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Uma associação local, qual o percentual de descendentes de japoneses, chineses e coreanos ante a população brasileira? E qual é o percentual nas universidades? Pois é, você já entendeu.<br />
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<b><i>Hutongs</i></b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXxIvGmb8hUzZnoVMXBq8p9jEes25FoScdspUAtuCE0VX1myBkDa81XeWwqAIeH2FUD5SVOU8Ndiut_hzYS89JG9L81XftIS9jG4RBvmaoUsymc2cN5p6xorQ6pX5BH4uwCm9W7pYnswvK/s1600/IMG_1144.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXxIvGmb8hUzZnoVMXBq8p9jEes25FoScdspUAtuCE0VX1myBkDa81XeWwqAIeH2FUD5SVOU8Ndiut_hzYS89JG9L81XftIS9jG4RBvmaoUsymc2cN5p6xorQ6pX5BH4uwCm9W7pYnswvK/s200/IMG_1144.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chineses jogando cartas em um <i>hutong</i></td></tr>
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Os <i>hutongs </i>são a assência do que permite <i>Bejing </i>ser uma megalópole de 19 milhões de habitantes e ao mesmo tempo uma vila pequena em que pessoas andam de bicicleta, riquexós, etc., ou compram animais vivos e fazem comida nas barraquinhas de rua. Enfim, os <i>hutongs </i>são a parte popular da cidade. Depois da Revolução Cultural essas áreas que foram construídas séculos atrás passaram a ser demolidas para dar espaço a grandes boulevares e avenidas na perfeita arquitetura quadrada e agigantada comunista. Porém, o que sobrou de uns anos para cá passou por um processo diferente. Dado o potencial turísticos dos <i>hutongs</i>, agora pode-se ver em <i>Beijing </i>um processo de restauração e até de imitação dessa antiga arquitetura.<br />
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_26ICYA2coM/UCz1upO3a9I/AAAAAAAACB8/qVOzHu_qeAo/s1600/IMG_1173.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_26ICYA2coM/UCz1upO3a9I/AAAAAAAACB8/qVOzHu_qeAo/s200/IMG_1173.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
É interessante andar pelos <i>hutongs </i>sem muito roteiro definido, apenas andar e andar e ir se perdendo e se achando. Cada esquina revela uma situação diferente, pessoas cozinhando, jogando cartas ou bebendo o tradicional e delicioso iogurte de <i>Beijing</i>. É um passeio de graça e muito interessante e pra quem gosta de coisas populares e locais vai ser o máximo.<br />
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<b><i>Richard!</i></b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOIylAs0aJcIr6Gp6eu2CMovL6hlLYkPmb_AYiAdoiN6n6Vim1NKTbfbA7mZkKHAjh0ZaDX31_4USdBsLzfqn1fW-OAKsy6yTjWU7Dk7YGJdrCHZBq9oLn3mxBuh8qSgkofGh4l9C24U5O/s1600/IMG_1097.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOIylAs0aJcIr6Gp6eu2CMovL6hlLYkPmb_AYiAdoiN6n6Vim1NKTbfbA7mZkKHAjh0ZaDX31_4USdBsLzfqn1fW-OAKsy6yTjWU7Dk7YGJdrCHZBq9oLn3mxBuh8qSgkofGh4l9C24U5O/s200/IMG_1097.JPG" width="200" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-p_QtMSQFySs/UC0-C7hNmhI/AAAAAAAACCs/Dm_kYrHezTU/s1600/IMG_1094.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-p_QtMSQFySs/UC0-C7hNmhI/AAAAAAAACCs/Dm_kYrHezTU/s200/IMG_1094.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
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Como eu já tinha ficado na casa do <i>Jony</i> pelo <i>Couchsurfing</i>, procurei um novo lugar pra ficar em <i>Beijing</i>. Acabou dando certo de ficar no apartamento do <i>Richard</i>. Ele é australiano, trabalha pra embaixada do seu país e é casado com uma chinesa de <i>Hong Kong</i> que morou na Austrália boa parte da vida. Ele já está em <i>Beijing </i>há muitos anos e conhece muito bem a cidade. Foi uma experiência muito legal, pude conversar bastante com ele e e entender pelos olhos de um expatriado de longo prazo como é a experiência e interação com a China. Além disso ele me levou pra tentar algumas experiências gastrônomicas na região que eu com certeza não teria feito caso não tivesse sido guiado por ele - <i>dumpling</i>s de <i>Beijing</i>, ovos pretos e perna de "brontossauro"... haha.<br />
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<b><i>Comprando uma passagem de trem</i></b><br />
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Esse é um dos maiores desafios pro viajante independente que não fala chinês, comprar uma passagem de trem pro seu próximo destino. Primeira coisa: assuma que nenhum vendedor - inclusive aqueles indicados nos painéis eletrônicos - seja capaz de falar inglês. Segunda coisa: tente fazer com que alguém bilingüe te acompanhe até o guichê. Terceira coisa: se a segunda não der certo peça para alguém escrever em chinês o que você quer com todos os detalhes e inclusive alternativas caso a sua idéia inicial não possa ser atendida. Caso você tenha um roteiro fechado - como eu tinha - é muito eficiente comprar todos os tickets de uma vez só e você pode tentar fazer isso de alguma cidade grande como <i>Beijing</i> ou pedindo para um agente efetuar as compras pra você. Esse site <a href="http://www.seat61.com/">www.seat61.com</a> (procure China) é uma ótima referência em termos de como o sistema de trens funciona na China.<br />
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Enfim, eu esperava conseguir meu ticket para <i>Datong </i>para 6a a noite pra não precisar de hotel quando chegasse lá. Porém, quando cheguei ao guichê descobri que só havia 6a a tarde. Quer dizer, um belga - tão perdido quanto eu mas que falava um pouco de chinês - descobriu isso e conseguiu me ajudar a reservar meu ticket. Foi minha primeira vez na vida que eu peguei um trem leito, aliás, só lembrava de andar em trens normais quando era bem pequeno e eles ainda existiam no Brasil!<br />
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<b>Próxima post:</b> A Grande Mulhara da China!</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02152018193849879223noreply@blogger.com2Beijing, China39.904214 116.40741339.514448 115.775699 40.293980000000005 117.03912700000001tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4089077439641967020.post-86873416467201111592012-08-15T22:02:00.000+07:002012-10-04T05:22:13.826+07:00China's gate: Hong Kong<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="text-align: justify;"><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/08/o-portal-da-china-hong-kong.html">Versão em Português</a></span></div>
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<span style="text-align: justify;">Dear readers, frequent or not, I finally made it to Brazil! 11 months and 30 flights after I landed in our tropical paradise and I'm more excited than never to meet up with friends and relatives, catch up with the stories, what changed and what's still the same, (find a new job, hehe), etc., and so on. I'm also looking forward to share my last adventures, first in China, and later in Europe.</span><br />
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Within these almost 30 days that I spent in this huge country I felt and understood many things, couldn't sleep that much, walked a lot, tasted some weird stuff, took lots of trains, some buses, and finished our challenge with surplus! I didn't take exactly what was planned before (through the posts why will tell you why) however my budget finished at US$ 1,080 and therefore lower than the previously planned US$ 1,200. Thus, for the low budget traveler China is still an option!</div>
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As previously appointed by my <a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/06/trip-around-china.html">introductory post</a>, my gate to the Chinese world was the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hong_Kong" style="font-style: italic;">SAR (Special Administrative Region) of Hong Kong</a>. This region is not just another Chinese province. In fact, it's totally different from mainland China. The closest rough association would be comparing it to <i><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/01/singapore-english.html">Singapore</a>.</i> <i>Hong Kong </i>became a British colony since 1842 and since culture, habits and Western values were merged to the Chinese culture in this place that would be known as the <i>gateway </i>to China. The city grew and became famous for its mid-position between the rest of the world and mainland China. However, <i>Hong Kong </i>also went through fast and polluted industrialization during the 50s which would be replaced by mainland's industrialization some years later and since the 80s the island has become a major global hub for services. Today it presents some relevant development indicators like the 13th best HDI, 4th largest population density, one of the most expensive real estate markets in the world, etc. In 1997, the region was returned to China under the concept <i>"one contry, two systems" </i>which should last for the next 50 years from then. That explains the fact that <i>in practice Hong Kong </i>is another country since there are all border control requirements, passport stamps and even the mainland Chinese themselves cannot get in without special authorizations.</div>
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My arrival in <i>Hong Kong </i>was a little bit complicated. After spending a night sleeping among chairs and floor of <i>KL</i>'s airport wondering about my Cambodian farewell I was informed that my flight would be delayed for more 2 hours. In the internet I found that a typhoon (which are very likely to happen at that time of the year) was 120 km west of <i>Hong Kong</i>. Maybe that wouldn't be big deal for most of the travelers but definitely to make my hands getting swept and my heart beating fast. I hate airplanes. Although I overcame my fear of flying before finishing my "world tour" at that time this was just another black hole in the adventure that was about to start. For the alerts and the most recent weather forecast check this <a href="http://www.hko.gov.hk/contente.htm">website</a>.</div>
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The typhoon went away and the flights were back. I got there, late, but in time to meet with my friend Julia - a former AIESEC exchange participant there, today living and working regularly - since she would " host" me and my 30 kg luggage suitcase until I finished my Chinese trip. By the way, she keeps a <a href="http://www.livehongkong.blogspot.com/">blog, very good and up-to-date</a>, about living in this part of Asia. It's worth to check some precious tips about going there. First, in <i>Hong Kong</i> there are no tellers in the bus - which is likely outside Brazil - and you should pay the fare in the exact amount. Since you will come from the airport and will have changed a large amount of money, to have the exact change may be difficult. The cheapest way to access <i>HK</i>'s downtown is getting S1 bus until <i>Tung Chung</i> - which has a huge Outlet by the way - and then the MRT. Why? If you take the <i>Airport Express</i> get ready to spend more than 100 HKD per way. Roughly estimation 1 USD = 8 HKD.<br />
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<tr><td><a href="http://www.hong-kong-travel.org/Graphics/MTR_Map.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="237" src="http://www.hong-kong-travel.org/Graphics/MTR_Map.gif" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Map with subway lines, trams and ferries of <i>Hong Kong</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-swiLpdIPxIw/UCp7ABb0cbI/AAAAAAAAB3w/MmZDr3U0L2U/s1600/IMG_0229.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-swiLpdIPxIw/UCp7ABb0cbI/AAAAAAAAB3w/MmZDr3U0L2U/s200/IMG_0229.JPG" width="133" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;"><i>Bank of China </i>building</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvx3x52cqQQKstGhcTKXFNriDJfpa6Lole4eI_JQavKLZUU_p393jJCMTRLmklCnL2gy3bfap44VVaPpEMfFkjcW31_MospE8fCEqTEoAVwCstaAKxLF6ywUHdlNdbnfrqAgRTpzsO4HOF/s1600/IMG_0232.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvx3x52cqQQKstGhcTKXFNriDJfpa6Lole4eI_JQavKLZUU_p393jJCMTRLmklCnL2gy3bfap44VVaPpEMfFkjcW31_MospE8fCEqTEoAVwCstaAKxLF6ywUHdlNdbnfrqAgRTpzsO4HOF/s200/IMG_0232.JPG" width="133" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Trams</td></tr>
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As you can see in the map, <i>HK</i>'s occupies a large area and the famous island of <i>Hong Kong </i>is just a small spot of it, thus using the public transportation is essential to go around. The territory central part is densely populated with <i>many </i>buildings. In fact, maybe in my whole trip I haven't seen so crowded walking paths like there. However, that does not represent a chaotic traffic as we would normally expect. Most of the time the streets are free of heavy traffic.<br />
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<b><i>The Peak</i></b></div>
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<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix1fI8rFaioNI0LSlHyBOPq1LUG_WC0zPKz-JpNNMoWWDhPo9PPyBERMMLzuO6LuwBGa6aDvojgeAaiYUZj5yysDfpOQxf_wfl_wKMgyTa9FVc4RWkZALzeOvR96_mI315rQ3fNIUOj7RM/s1600/Untitled_Panorama1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="111" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix1fI8rFaioNI0LSlHyBOPq1LUG_WC0zPKz-JpNNMoWWDhPo9PPyBERMMLzuO6LuwBGa6aDvojgeAaiYUZj5yysDfpOQxf_wfl_wKMgyTa9FVc4RWkZALzeOvR96_mI315rQ3fNIUOj7RM/s320/Untitled_Panorama1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">The viw from <i>The Peak </i>during the day</td></tr>
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One of the most famous attractions of <i>Hong Kong </i>is <i>The Peak</i>. It's basically the view from the top of a mountain that occupies the central part of the island of <i>Hong Kong</i>. To make it easier to understand the location, in the other site of the bay you can find the neighborhoods of <i>Kowloon </i>and <i>New Territories</i>, where most of the population actually live and, after these areas, it's the Chinese province of <i>Guangdong</i>, already at mainland China. The traditional way to climb up <i>The Peak </i>is taking an old tram that cost 40 HKD return ticket. However, they will try to send you the <i>SkyPass </i>which is the possibility to see the same thing of a little bit higher point. I don't think that is worth to pay this extra amount since there's some sort of mall after crossing a small garden area at the top and you can reach the rooftop with a good angle and for free. Other possibility is to reach the peak area entirely on foot which could be even more interesting and remarkable. The view is really impressive and surely a post card of <i>Hong Kong</i>. You could not find good weather? No worries! Go at night! </div>
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<tr><td><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fcl-pstetLc/UCrA75enwUI/AAAAAAAAB4s/sZ0kiEBlP60/s1600/IMG_0315.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fcl-pstetLc/UCrA75enwUI/AAAAAAAAB4s/sZ0kiEBlP60/s320/IMG_0315.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><i>The Peak </i>seen at night</td></tr>
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<b><i>Big Buddha</i></b></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">View from the cable car</td></tr>
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Another famous attraction of <i>Hong Kong </i>is the visit to the <i>Big Buddha</i>, originally named <i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tian_Tan_Buddha">Tian Tan Buddha</a></i>. This place is only accessible through a cable car, very nice and very tall, it's worth it. Besides that it's very close to the airport and, like my case, you can leave it as a <i>last tour</i> before taking your flight. That's possible since many airlines companies provide check-in counters in <i>HK</i>'s downtown area in some subway stations thus making you free to go around without luggage.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oBB1ZRaf914/UCrGGm88QEI/AAAAAAAAB5o/_iholF0_s8s/s1600/IMG_0390.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oBB1ZRaf914/UCrGGm88QEI/AAAAAAAAB5o/_iholF0_s8s/s200/IMG_0390.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Stairways giving access to the <i>Big Buddha</i></td></tr>
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At the first view one would thing that the <i>Big Buddha</i> was built some centuries ago erected by some Chinese emperor. However, in fact it was built just in 1993. Given to the touristic exploitation in place that gives room to wonder whether the purpose of the construction was exclusively to create a touristic attraction. That interpretation is far from absurd. In mainland China for example there are hundreds of locations which are being rebuilt - from scratch sometimes - in order to enjoy Chinese huge tourism potential.<br />
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<b><i>Avenue of the Stars</i></b><br />
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In the other side of the bay, in <i>Kowloon</i>, it's possible to observe one of the most famous views of <i>Hong Kong</i>. Everyday you can catch a show - <i><a href="http://www.google.com.br/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CF0QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.tourism.gov.hk%2Fsymphony%2F&ei=7-oqUJifEYj-9QT6qoFw&usg=AFQjCNGnQ2JtOK44KcKNkm3C5n9GwqMwSw&sig2=xXmiCEghKkKYOMRAnUAYRQ">Symphony of Lights</a> - </i>at 8 pm, for free, in which many buildings change their colors according to the playing music.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><i>Hong Kong </i>island seen at night</td></tr>
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More impressive than the show of lights is the view to the <i>Hong Kong </i>island at night. Lights everywhere! However, the name <i>Avenue of the Stars </i>comes from the fact that this avenue has many "hands" of <i>HK</i>'s movie stars, including <i>Bruce Lee</i> and <i>Jackie Chan</i>!</div>
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To finish, my picture with Julia and her boyfriend (Martin) having an awesome lunch with <i>HK</i>'s typical food and my anxiety before putting my feet in mainland China. Thank you Julia for providing me all the assistance during my stays in <i>HK</i>! I also thank you <i>Juan Pablo</i>, <i>Marine, Javier </i>and <i>Olivier </i>for allowing me to stay at their apartments! <i>:)</i></div>
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Next stop, <a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/08/5-days-in-beijing.html"><i>Beijing</i>!</a></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02152018193849879223noreply@blogger.com0Hong Kong22.396428 114.10949722.161534500000002 113.79364000000001 22.6313215 114.425354tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4089077439641967020.post-10701973225027819802012-08-15T07:52:00.000+07:002012-10-04T05:21:39.489+07:00O portal da China: Hong Kong<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/08/chinas-gate-hong-kong.html">English version</a></div>
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Caros leitores, assíduos ou não, finalmente cheguei ao Brasil! 11 meses e 30 vôos depois que deixei o nosso paraíso tropical estou mais ansioso do que nunca para reencontrar amigos e parentes, me interar das novidades, do que mudou e o que está igual, (encontrar um emprego de novo, hehe), etc., e por aí vai. Também estou ansioso em partilhar as últimas aventuras, primeiro da China, e segundo da Europa. </div>
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Nesses quase 30 dias que passei pelo gigante asiático, senti, e entendi muitas coisas, dormi pouco, andei muito, experimentei algumas coisas estranhas, peguei muitos trens, alguns ônibus, e fechei o nosso desafio com superávit! Não fiz exatamente todo o planejado (ao longo da história vou explicar o porquê) porém o meu <i>budget </i>ficou em US$ 1.080 e portanto inferior ao orçado de US$ 1.200. Ou seja, para os espartanos de plantão viajar no país dos chinglings com baixo custo é possível!</div>
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Como o meu <a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/06/uma-viagem-da-china.html">post introdutório</a> apontou, o meu portal para o mundo chinês foi a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hong_Kong"><i>SAR (Special Administrative Region) </i>de <i>Hong Kong</i></a>. Essa região não é apenas mais uma província chinesa. Na verdade, ela é totalmente diferente da China continental. A associação mais próxima que eu teria na verdade seria <a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2011/12/cingapura.html"><i>Cingapura</i></a> porém ainda de forma bem grosseira. <i>Hong Kong </i>virou uma colônia britânica a partir de 1842 e desde então costumes, hábitos e valores ocidentais foram fundidos com a cultura chinesa nesse entreposto que viria a ser conhecido como o <i>portal </i>para a China. A cidade cresceu e se notabilizou por fazer com destreza esse meio-campo entre o resto do mundo e a China de fato. Porém, <i>Hong Kong </i>também passou por um processo de rápida e poluída industrialização nos anos 50 que veio a ser substituído pela industrialização da China continental a partir dos anos 80 em diante e a ilha virando um centro mundial de serviços. Ou seja, hoje ostenta alguns títulos relevantes como o 13o IDH mais alto do mundo, a 4a maior densidade populacional, um dos mercados imobiliários mais caros do planeta, etc. Em 1997, a região foi devolvida à China continental sob o conceito <i>"um país, dois sistemas"</i> que deverá vigorar por 50 anos a partir dessa data. Isso explica o fato de <i>na prática Hong Kong </i>ser outro país dado que existem controle de fronteiras, carimbo de passaporte e os próprios chineses continentais não podem entrar no território sem autorizações especiais.</div>
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Minha chegada em <i>Hong Kong </i>foi um pouco conturbada. Depois de passar a noite durmindo entre cadeiras e o chão do aeroporto de <i>Kuala Lumpur </i>digerindo a despedida do Camboja fui informado que meu vôo tinha sido adiado por mais de 2h. Na internet descubro que um tufão (que são comuns nessa época do ano) estava passando a cerca de 120 km de <i>Hong Kong</i>. Talvez isso não fosse grande coisa pra maioria das pessoas mas pra mim era algo pra fazer minhas mãos suarem e meu coração disparasse. Odeio aviões. Ainda que tenha superado o pânico e o medo que isso me causa, até ali era só mais um ponto obscuro na aventura que ia começar. Para os alertas e situação climatológica mais atualizados acesse esse <a href="http://www.google.com.br/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&ved=0CHYQFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.hko.gov.hk%2Fcontente.htm&ei=Ln4qUPOMMKb30gG1xoGgBw&usg=AFQjCNG3X73HjxAMMoRxM2ukXTgcvox6aw&sig2=qEwoPDCIuzjDhSzhRtoWcw">site</a>.</div>
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O tufão se distanciou da cidade e os vôos começaram a ser normalizados. Consegui chegar, atrasado, mas ainda a tempo de encontra minha amiga Julia - que foi intercambista da AIESEC por lá, hoje efetivada e moradora - já que ela iria me ajudar a "hospedar" minha mala de 30 kg vinda do Camboja enquanto eu fazia meu tour oriental. Ela por sinal mantém um <a href="http://livehongkong.blogspot.com/">blog, muito bom e atualizado</a>, sobre como é viver nesse pedaço da Ásia. Vale a pena conferir pra saber algumas dicas preciosas antes de ir pra lá. Primeiramente, em <i>Hong Kong </i>além de não existirem cobradores - o que é normal fora do Brasil - você deve pagar a tarifa com troco exato. Dado que normalmente você estará vindo do aeroporto e terá trocado valores grandes de dinheiro isso pode dificultar um pouco. Se um local não tivesse me visto e oferecido para trocar dinheiro pra mim eu não teria conseguido pegar o ônibus. O jeito mais barato de acessar o centro da cidade a partir do aeroporto é pegar o ônibus S1 até <i>Tung Chung </i>- que por sinal tem um Outlet enorme - e daí o MRT em diante. Por quê? Caso você pegue o <i>Airport Express</i> prepara-se para mais de 100 HKD por trajeto. Grosseiramente arredondando 1 USD = 8 HKD.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mapa das linhas de metrô, bondes e balsas de <i>Hong Kong</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Prédio do <i>Bank of China</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvx3x52cqQQKstGhcTKXFNriDJfpa6Lole4eI_JQavKLZUU_p393jJCMTRLmklCnL2gy3bfap44VVaPpEMfFkjcW31_MospE8fCEqTEoAVwCstaAKxLF6ywUHdlNdbnfrqAgRTpzsO4HOF/s1600/IMG_0232.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvx3x52cqQQKstGhcTKXFNriDJfpa6Lole4eI_JQavKLZUU_p393jJCMTRLmklCnL2gy3bfap44VVaPpEMfFkjcW31_MospE8fCEqTEoAVwCstaAKxLF6ywUHdlNdbnfrqAgRTpzsO4HOF/s200/IMG_0232.JPG" width="133" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bondes</td></tr>
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Como deu pra ver no mapa <i>Hong Kong </i>ocupa uma vasta área sendo a famosa ilha de <i>Hong Kong </i>apenas um pequeno pedaço portanto utilizar o sistema de transportes público é essencial. O centro do território é densamente povoado com muitos e muitos prédios. Na verdade, talvez em toda a minha viagem não vi tantas pessoas andando na rua como aqui. Porém, isso não representa imediatamente trânsito caótico como seria de se esperar. Na maior parte do tempo as ruas da cidade estão livres.<br />
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<b><i>The Peak</i></b></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix1fI8rFaioNI0LSlHyBOPq1LUG_WC0zPKz-JpNNMoWWDhPo9PPyBERMMLzuO6LuwBGa6aDvojgeAaiYUZj5yysDfpOQxf_wfl_wKMgyTa9FVc4RWkZALzeOvR96_mI315rQ3fNIUOj7RM/s1600/Untitled_Panorama1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="111" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix1fI8rFaioNI0LSlHyBOPq1LUG_WC0zPKz-JpNNMoWWDhPo9PPyBERMMLzuO6LuwBGa6aDvojgeAaiYUZj5yysDfpOQxf_wfl_wKMgyTa9FVc4RWkZALzeOvR96_mI315rQ3fNIUOj7RM/s320/Untitled_Panorama1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vista a partir do <i>The Peak </i>de dia</td></tr>
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Uma das atrações mais famosas de <i>Hong Kong </i>é o <i>The Peak </i>ou "O Pico". Trata-se de uma vista do topo da montanha que ocupa a parte central da ilha de <i>Hong Kong</i>. Pra facilitar a orientação espacial, do outro lado da baía ficam os bairros de <i>Kowloon </i>e <i>New Territories</i>, onde a maior parte da população vive, e depois desses bairros a província chinesa de <i>Guandong</i>, portanto já na China continental. O jeito mais famoso de chegar nesse lugar é através de um antigo bonde que custa 40 HKD para adultos ida-e-volta. Porém, tentarão te vender o <i>SkyPass </i>que é a possibilidade de ver a mesma coisa de um ponto um pouco mais alto. Não acho que compense afinal a uma outra espécie de shopping do outro lado da pracinha que tem um mirante um pouco mais baixo mas com um bom ângulo e de graça. Outra possibilidade ainda é chegar até esse lugar a pé, que é totalmente possível e talvez até mais interessante. A vista é realmente muito impactante e com certeza é um cartão-postal de <i>Hong Kong. </i>Não deu pra ir com tempo bom? Não tem problema! Vá a noite!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fcl-pstetLc/UCrA75enwUI/AAAAAAAAB4s/sZ0kiEBlP60/s1600/IMG_0315.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fcl-pstetLc/UCrA75enwUI/AAAAAAAAB4s/sZ0kiEBlP60/s320/IMG_0315.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>The Peak </i>visto a noite</td></tr>
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<b><i>Big Buddha</i></b></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UDAVZcxlyMs/UCrDyoSxkbI/AAAAAAAAB5Y/6YYXCL9tMx8/s1600/IMG_0343.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UDAVZcxlyMs/UCrDyoSxkbI/AAAAAAAAB5Y/6YYXCL9tMx8/s200/IMG_0343.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vista do teleférico</td></tr>
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Outra atração famosa de <i>Hong Kong </i>é a visita ao <i>Big Buddha</i>, nome original <i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tian_Tan_Buddha">Tian Tan Buddha</a></i>. Esse local é acessível através de um teleférico, muito legal e muuito alto, vale a pena. Além disso fica perto do aeroporto e, como no meu caso, pode servir como um bom <i>último passeio </i>antes de pegar o vôo. Isso é viável pois várias companhias aéreas têm balcões de check-in em algumas estações de metrô no centro de <i>Hong Kong</i> deixando você livre pra andar sem malas.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oBB1ZRaf914/UCrGGm88QEI/AAAAAAAAB5o/_iholF0_s8s/s1600/IMG_0390.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oBB1ZRaf914/UCrGGm88QEI/AAAAAAAAB5o/_iholF0_s8s/s200/IMG_0390.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Escadaria de acesso ao <i>Big Buddha</i></td></tr>
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À primeira vista você talvez pense que o <i>Big Buddha </i>está ali há algumas centenas de anos construído por algum imperador chinês. Porém, a realidade é que ele foi feito em 1993. Dada a exploração turística do local tal qual é hoje há margens para se pensar que o propósito da construção tenha sido exclusivamente para criar uma atração turística. Essa interpretação não é absurda. Na China continental por exemplo existem centenas de localidades que estão sendo reconstruídas - do zero muitas vezes - de forma a aproveitar o gigante apetite chinês por turismo.<br />
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<b><i>Avenue of the Stars</i></b><br />
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Do outro lado da baía, em <i>Kowloon</i>, é possível observar uma das vistas que talvez tenha mais consagrado <i>Hong Kong</i>. Todos os dias também há um show - <i><a href="http://www.google.com.br/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CF0QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.tourism.gov.hk%2Fsymphony%2F&ei=7-oqUJifEYj-9QT6qoFw&usg=AFQjCNGnQ2JtOK44KcKNkm3C5n9GwqMwSw&sig2=xXmiCEghKkKYOMRAnUAYRQ">Symphony of Lights</a> - </i>às 20h, de graça, em que vários prédios mudam suas cores de acordo com a música.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ilha de <i>Hong Kong </i>vista a noite</td></tr>
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Mais impressionantes do que o show de luzes porém é a vista da ilha de <i>Hong Kong </i>a noite. Luzes que não acabam mais! Porém, o nome <i>Avenue of the Stars </i>vem do fato que essa avenida em forma de mirante está cheia de "mãos" no chão com os astros do cinema de <i>Hong Kong</i>, incluindo aí o famoso <i>Bruce Lee</i>!</div>
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Pra fechar, a minha foto com a Julia e o namorado dela (Martin) em um excelente almoço com comidas típicas de <i>Hong Kong</i> e só na ansiedade para colocar meus pés na China continental. Muito obrigado Julia por ter dado uma mega assistência nas minhas duas estadias em HK! Agradeço também o <i>Juan Pablo</i>, a <i>Marine</i>, o <i>Javier </i>e o <i>Olivier </i>por emprestarem um espacinho da casa deles<i>! :) </i></div>
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Próxima parada, <a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com.br/2012/08/5-dias-em-beijing.html"><i>Beijing</i>!</a></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02152018193849879223noreply@blogger.com0Hong Kong22.396428 114.10949722.161534500000002 113.79364000000001 22.6313215 114.425354tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4089077439641967020.post-14872113719027012742012-06-26T11:19:00.000+07:002012-08-14T00:05:16.257+07:00Retrospective<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="background-color: white;"><b><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/06/retrospectiva.html">Versão em Português </a></b></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">During my stay here I've tried to keep my blog updated and my thoughts flowing and even wrote a diary for a while. My greatest fear was that the "truth" found here would be lost in the future.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">Now I will try to transport you in a flashback way about my feelings within these 10 months I lived in Southeast Asia - It's also an incredible opportunity for friends and relatives to read a summary about everything and get informed about what happened, hehe.</span></div>
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I landed in <i>Phnom Penh</i> in September, 1st 2011 in the monsoon season peak. The morning was hot but with blue skies. From the airplane what most caught my attention was the huge mirror made by the water over the rice fields.</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Beginning</b></span></div>
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<b><i>September</i></b></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bE8_h55hbHU/TmDJKJfneMI/AAAAAAAAADw/SSox87pdvIo/s1600/DSCN1772.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="148" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bE8_h55hbHU/TmDJKJfneMI/AAAAAAAAADw/SSox87pdvIo/s200/DSCN1772.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">My first impression of </span><i style="background-color: white;">Phnom Penh</i><span style="background-color: white;">, was, trully, a shock. I slept with the images of </span><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2011/09/singapore-kuala-lampur-tour.html" style="background-color: white;"><i>Singapore and Kuala Lumpur</i></a><span style="background-color: white;"> and woke up many decades in the past. I reached my room and the first thing I thought was about the musty smell. I didn't that I had just stepped in the best and biggest room I'd ever get in Cambodia.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">Even though I found and made some friends, it didn't take maybe 1 week to start feeling very lonely. People spoke words that I could not understand. In the lunch time and company meetings English was rarely spoken and when people tried to their accent was impossible to understand. To make this scenario worse I saw a person having her bag being snatched right in front of me and that took me in a neurotic approach towards safety which could be felt until some months ago.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">Still, at that time we were starting our first project. The revaluation of a state owned company that took care of </span><i style="background-color: white;">Phnom Penh's </i><span style="background-color: white;">water supply known as </span><i style="background-color: white;">PPWSA</i><span style="background-color: white;">. We had an interesting moment at this time because it would be the first report </span><i style="background-color: white;">that has never been written before</i><span style="background-color: white;">, the first spreadsheets </span><i style="background-color: white;">that were never set up before</i><span style="background-color: white;"> and so, everything from scratch. One of the days which I can remember pretty clearly was when I presented the "magics" of Excel with pivot tables, logic formulas, etc. I also started my battle for efficiency, constantly challenged by our outsourced staff and a intertial decision taking process. Parallel to that I started looking for some alternative projects. Process mapping, trying to set up a competence model, drafting an English training, etc.</span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vhHd4J4WMjk/ToHwKKi7_GI/AAAAAAAAAIk/i997Sxejg9A/s1600/DSCN2153.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vhHd4J4WMjk/ToHwKKi7_GI/AAAAAAAAAIk/i997Sxejg9A/s200/DSCN2153.JPG" width="148" /></a><br />
<span style="background-color: white;">Still in the same month that I arrived I've done my first trip. In the company of Patro (Mexican) and Mariana (Brazilian) we went to </span><i style="background-color: white;"><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2011/09/angkor-wat.html">Angkor Wat</a>. </i><span style="background-color: white;">We challenged one of the worse floods in years, literally crossing Cambodia's countryside sea with the road being the only thing which was not flooded. It was also one of the most tiring adventures I ever had, 52 km rode in gearless bicycles! :P</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">Back to my routine I was living in an extremely basic basis. US$ 1 for the breakfast, US$ 1 for lunch and US$ 1 for dinner. Total per month US$ 90. And it went like that until I had a salary increase in January, 2012. The result was that I lost around 8 kg very fast and without knowing my bio-resistance went very low - even taking vitamins supplements every day.</span></div>
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<b><i>October</i></b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEZWHDqm-7w9pBd0wNfPLm8UlI3m36-mBayAorScd_mJrAd3TPHQUVEKTBnk013zttbz4L2jbDNhULrONPLqrNALokj2HCfCvVyuXYm9fJjglFZPW7guJoCOhMnmuOV4qIMupjkF9g6dzw/s1600/DSCN1939.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEZWHDqm-7w9pBd0wNfPLm8UlI3m36-mBayAorScd_mJrAd3TPHQUVEKTBnk013zttbz4L2jbDNhULrONPLqrNALokj2HCfCvVyuXYm9fJjglFZPW7guJoCOhMnmuOV4qIMupjkF9g6dzw/s200/DSCN1939.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
<span style="background-color: white;">My initial months here were marked by a constant reflection about the genocide, Cambodia's tragic history and how things happened and come to what is Cambodia today. The blog's name </span><i style="background-color: white;"><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2011/10/holiday-in-cambodia.html">Holiday in Cambodia'</a> </i><span style="background-color: white;">it's inspired on that. I've also started reading the book <i>'First They Killed My Father'</i>, and I simply couldn't stop. I could almost see the horror and pain scenes. I felt guilty, spoiled, ungrateful for the life I had.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">Without noticing I started to limit myself, avoiding to hangout, to look for entertainment and I shut down. It's hard to believe how people laugh in the street, go to work, study, marry, etc., after going through all that suffering. But in the end I understood that, for all they've been through, living thinking about the past or being target of petty it's what they don't need. Forget the suffering and create mechanisms that could avoid these terrible days to come back is the solution. The best contribution I can give it's to help them to migrate to the world of the modern things and feelings they were locked out in the past 30-40 years. I'm sure I became a happier person from then on.</span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-O9sWxravQsk/Tq4SbGzt8hI/AAAAAAAAAM0/abGpT36sBeM/s1600/DSCN2379.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-O9sWxravQsk/Tq4SbGzt8hI/AAAAAAAAAM0/abGpT36sBeM/s200/DSCN2379.JPG" width="149" /></a><br />
<span style="background-color: white;">I had the opportunity to participate in a </span><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2011/11/happily-ever-after.html" style="background-color: white; font-style: italic;">Khmer wedding</a><span style="background-color: white;">, very traditional, and to get closer to the local cutlure. I started to get used to be seen as an exotic animal wherever I go and for some minutes I thought I'd be the major attraction rather than the bride and the groom.</span><i style="background-color: white;"> </i><span style="background-color: white;">Even though I don't agree with it completely, as </span><i style="background-color: white;">Zhengyu</i><span style="background-color: white;"> would say, </span><i style="background-color: white;">"in Rome do like the Romans do"</i><span style="background-color: white;">, which in this case includes dancing and drinking beer with ice.</span></div>
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<b><i>November</i></b></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">In November another big holiday came up and I decided to kick-off my first international adventure since I've arrived. I had been through only 2 months but when I stepped in the airport I had the "civilization" coming back feeling. My destionation as North Vietnam. When I arrived in </span><i style="background-color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_999844961">Hanoi</a></i><span style="background-color: white;"><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2011/11/hanoi-english.html"> </a>I immediately fell in love with the city. People walking around the park at 10 pm at night? That was new. Trees everywhere and temperatures ranging 18-25oC. I'd convinced myself I'd easily live there.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFYRLoBP3zve6ZOLLqleFCEaaa0if-QWg_6wAgRgOj3zKKjQ7xLNwJ18iV1xAapwrIfqJggYbUHhCZKkTIbXF2Fq7GX12eQDwSr6tBRhi6tlIGlcRkeB893G_BW0PEY9wSjQ9OK92ZpoCb/s1600/IMG_0482.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="131" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFYRLoBP3zve6ZOLLqleFCEaaa0if-QWg_6wAgRgOj3zKKjQ7xLNwJ18iV1xAapwrIfqJggYbUHhCZKkTIbXF2Fq7GX12eQDwSr6tBRhi6tlIGlcRkeB893G_BW0PEY9wSjQ9OK92ZpoCb/s200/IMG_0482.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
My experience in Vietnam was very meaningful because I met <i>Hau</i>, which in his and my inocence, made us very grood friends and gave me a very special experience there. I saw absolutely incredible landscapes in <i><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2011/11/halong-bay-english.html">Halong Bay</a></i> and <i><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2011/11/tam-coc-english.html">Tam Coc</a></i> which only increased my admiration for that country. In the eyes, in the talk, and in the history of Vietnam one can see the power of a warrior people that survived to China's ambition and US's influence. We're gonna hear a lot about this place.</div>
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<b><i>December</i></b></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IMM4UwCQGsY/Tv3AXlHsMMI/AAAAAAAAAms/4Un8gjqgzCs/s1600/IMG_0816.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IMM4UwCQGsY/Tv3AXlHsMMI/AAAAAAAAAms/4Un8gjqgzCs/s200/IMG_0816.JPG" width="131" /></a><br />
<span style="background-color: white;">Finally in December I could combine holidays and vacations beng able to meet my family and girlfriend. It's hard to describe how time is a relative thing. It wasn't 3 months I had said goodbye to them in São Paulo and I felt as I've been distant for years. Being able to meet again with the ones you love in a warm culture like ours it's a dream coming true. I revisted </span><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/01/singapore-english.html" style="background-color: white; font-style: italic;">Singapore</a><span style="background-color: white;">, which I could go around and we left our jaws down with so much modernity, efficiency and urbanistic beauty in a draconian rules system. It's possible to imagine that a less than 2-hour flight can take-off and land in so much contrast.</span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hmqpA1xJTlY/Twb-0-wOpaI/AAAAAAAAAtI/xlYLratkB-I/s1600/IMG_1012.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hmqpA1xJTlY/Twb-0-wOpaI/AAAAAAAAAtI/xlYLratkB-I/s200/IMG_1012.JPG" width="126" /></a><br />
<span style="background-color: white;">Following our cruise we also went to </span><i style="background-color: white;"><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/01/bangkok-english.html">Bangkok</a></i><span style="background-color: white;">, where the modernity emergency provide by globalization melts with a liberal culture, however next to history and Thai traditional habits. Thailand is today a regional power, at the level of business, technology, education, medical services, tourism and air traffic. </span><i style="background-color: white;">Bangkok</i><span style="background-color: white;"> is the example of that. Skyscrapers of financial institutions challenge houses and river communities, and fancy temples. In demographic and territorial terms however, Thailand is in a much better position than </span><i style="background-color: white;">Singapore, </i><span style="background-color: white;">restricted to an island and small population.</span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eU_Lk6B2M8A/TwmbDyVJDTI/AAAAAAAAAxQ/WAUYtEkk_xw/s1600/IMG_1262.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="131" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eU_Lk6B2M8A/TwmbDyVJDTI/AAAAAAAAAxQ/WAUYtEkk_xw/s200/IMG_1262.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
<span style="background-color: white;">Still in Thailand we found why so many people come there. Besides the cultural spots in </span><i style="background-color: white;">Bangkok</i><span style="background-color: white;">, wonderful nature can be seen in the country's Southern region, in the West or in the East. Precisely </span><i style="background-color: white;"><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/01/ko-samui-phuket-english.html">Ko Samui and Phuket</a></i><span style="background-color: white;"> reserve an amazing experience in terms of beaches and sea.</span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jJILew2K4RY/TsZ0VkywVnI/AAAAAAAAAhA/beGf4FfnInI/s1600/DSCN1745.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jJILew2K4RY/TsZ0VkywVnI/AAAAAAAAAhA/beGf4FfnInI/s200/DSCN1745.JPG" width="148" /></a><br />
<span style="background-color: white;">Finally we made our way to Malaysia, one of the countries that most caught my attention due to its highly heterogenous population. Local ethnic people (Muslims), live next to Chinese ethnic (Buddhists) and Indians (Hindu) within relative stability. However, it's becoming more and more tense the relationship between Muslims and the other groups that feel not represented politcally. </span><i style="background-color: white;"><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/01/kuala-lumpur-english.html">Kuala Lumpur</a></i><span style="background-color: white;"> althout it's the largest Malaysian city you won't notice a significant mix in the population.</span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WLounIbqlN8/TyS6CYWeWCI/AAAAAAAAA68/NuxZ-iE1I_4/s1600/IMG_1918.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="127" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WLounIbqlN8/TyS6CYWeWCI/AAAAAAAAA68/NuxZ-iE1I_4/s200/IMG_1918.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
<i style="background-color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_999844997">Langkawi</a></i><span style="background-color: white;"><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/02/langkawi-english.html"> </a>it's a more natural place, and it really is, as we had an amazing boat tour around the mangroves and we could spot the eagles feeding themselves. Although I had dreamed about going up in the cable car when we arrived there it was closed due to the strong winds in the mountains and since we had just a short time in the town we could not wait for it until open.</span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-INAQX00uAVY/TzCzYVIPRGI/AAAAAAAAA_I/8zxJYIv9xVY/s1600/IMG_2212.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="131" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-INAQX00uAVY/TzCzYVIPRGI/AAAAAAAAA_I/8zxJYIv9xVY/s200/IMG_2212.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
<span style="background-color: white;">Then we headed to </span><i style="background-color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_999845003">Penang</a></i><span style="background-color: white;"><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/02/penang-english.html"> </a>and </span><i style="background-color: white;"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_999845007">Melaka</a></i><span style="background-color: white;"><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/02/finally-last-post-about-melaka.html"> </a>which could be the cultural peak in terms of Malaysian tourism. </span><i style="background-color: white;">Penang</i><span style="background-color: white;"> it's very interesting for its family preserved Buddhist temples that present an almost </span><i style="background-color: white;">'Asian-baroque' </i><span style="background-color: white;">architecture with many details, ornaments, decorations, etc. It was pretty clear the power of the Chinese/Buddhist/Confucionist culture in these places. The culture of knowledge and achievement. In these temples was common to see each family's member name, their college degree, and the university name. </span><i style="background-color: white;">Melaka </i><span style="background-color: white;">follows quite the same style however with more colonial elements due to the Dutch presence some centuries ago.</span></div>
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Finished our trip I first had to say goodbye to Cá, which was actually very hard. And, finally, a week later, to my family. These two 'events' left me in a hangover mood in the next week or so. Saying goodbye when you're abroad it's much harder. That's the kind of thing that makes you want to leave, forget the plans, and go back. This time we changed to a new office, to a new company and a new boss with some implications I'd understand only in the future.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicPp9hY8kE9ZoMNC8UruYWrb_D8VlnB1VUSthE6tab7iB4SWKl5EqUH6pKOubh6S3bICkcpTYdqiNN9buO0BTfhVXtfZ1HYKOH1wp98DYy74qYHUck4gxBVOWlgjDH5pNQ_Qx2qYqf6R0c/s1600/IMG_2851.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="131" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicPp9hY8kE9ZoMNC8UruYWrb_D8VlnB1VUSthE6tab7iB4SWKl5EqUH6pKOubh6S3bICkcpTYdqiNN9buO0BTfhVXtfZ1HYKOH1wp98DYy74qYHUck4gxBVOWlgjDH5pNQ_Qx2qYqf6R0c/s200/IMG_2851.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
<span style="background-color: white;">Our company hired a bus, loaded it with food and drinks and gave us two celebration days in the end of the year for making the </span><i style="background-color: white;"><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/02/countdown-in-sihanoukville.html">'countdown' in Sihanoukville</a></i><span style="background-color: white;">. While the party was actually great the whole day, the </span><i style="background-color: white;">'countdown'</i><span style="background-color: white;"> itself was quite frustrating and even a little bit sad. Instead of the hugs and the new year's messages, health, etc., nothing, some toast and we went to sleep. But in the next day everything was fine, don't worry! :)</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Middle</span></b></div>
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<b><i>January</i></b></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">After the new year's eve, in the same city I went to a meeting to represent our company. A new project was born, the revaluation of the Port of </span><i style="background-color: white;">Sihanoukville</i><span style="background-color: white;">, which the IPO must happen pretty soon. They made some nice presentations of freight costs according to the available ports in the region, future projects to be developed with the money raised from the IPO, etc.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">The start of 2012 was not just the most stressful part of my work here in Cambodia, but professionally from my whole life.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">We took some revaluation projects of the garment factories looking to performing an IPO here. The first shock was to get into a garment factory in Asia, which the work conditions are very questionable. An army of women, more than 3,000, seizing, ironing, etc., well-know brands, among them Adidas. I saw people being carried away because they had fainted due to the heat and chemical products smell, Chinese screaming to their employees, disgusting toilets, etc. In a factory, that didn't provide for Adidas, I </span><i style="background-color: white;">think</i><span style="background-color: white;"> I may have seen child labor, which has some mistake margin since people here are really small.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">I coodinated our inspection tteam many times when visiting the factory. However, a huge mistake of project planning made our customer's expectation totally incompatible with the level of complexity we've found in place. There were more than 6,000 equipment items, mostly being used, which changed location every day. My boss had negotiated 2 days to finish this inspection. It ended up taking 3 months. At the same time I felt guilty for making our staff to work over time and skipp their night classes in college.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">This period I arrived at the office almost every day at 7 am and came back home at 10 pm. The amount of information that had to be processed from one day to the other after being consolidated was huge and we didn't have any process for that. Then our customer started to extremely rude with our staff - sometimes refusing to provide them lunch or water -, then to be rude with me and finally screaming in the telephone with my boss.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">One of the days I was visiting the factory I started to have pains my back, that started to go down to my belly and legs. At one time it became impossible to walk and the only thing I did was moaning and sweating. I then was presented to my first kidney stones crisis and my happiness of having hired a good health insurance.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">Before the month end I had to pay a second visit to the hospital for having symptoms of Malaria - high fever, body pains, etc. Thanks to God it wasn't Malaria or Dengue, just a bacterian infection which gave me an extra hospital overnight.</span></div>
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<b><i>February</i></b></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">I just had recovered and left hospital without finishing the project before and our company took another garment factory assignment with this time being 8,000 items spread around 3 different locations. And then again random fictious schedules went around the negotation table. Just the inspection part took around 3 months when the previously scheduled time was 2 weeks.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">Managing a </span><i style="background-color: white;">Khmer </i><span style="background-color: white;">team it wasn't easy. Our cultural differences are huge and that translates in the way of taking care of the work, tasks, deadlines, etc. When a deadline is given to me, it should be accomplished, but in the local understanding it's more like an attemptive. I tried to implement some competition among our workers according to the number of equipments inspected by day putting that information in a chart updated daily. The result was interesting and it really made their performance to grow. As a recognition one of them was granted with some free beers. During that time I've written some procedures and processes to make our workflow better standardized and make things easier more manageable.</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_nqhoHDdGXM/T11rze_W3NI/AAAAAAAABIQ/Kc0TyK3EETc/s1600/IMG_62742.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="154" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_nqhoHDdGXM/T11rze_W3NI/AAAAAAAABIQ/Kc0TyK3EETc/s200/IMG_62742.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
<span style="background-color: white;">In February we went to an 1-day trip to </span><i style="background-color: white;"><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/03/mekong-island-english.html">Mekong Island</a> </i><span style="background-color: white;">next to </span><i style="background-color: white;">Phnom Penh </i><span style="background-color: white;">where I could remember the simple life in the countryside of Cambodia - at that it has been a while that I hadn't gone to the countryside. We could see the handcrafted silk and also a small sand beach in the middle of the river. A completely different reality just 30 minutes outside of the capital.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">Eventually in my mid mini-crisis came up about Cambodia's conditions. For many times I became very angry against the unhidden corruption, the lack of respect to the law, the public (and private) mismanagement, etc. The sensation that everything was very wrong was very wide and really sufocated me some times. I still frequently pre-judge that all people owning big cars are corrupt and money leeches. You don't need to tell me how wrong this mindset is.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">This month I got sick again, with horrible pains in my stomach and diarrhea. This time I decided not to go to the hospital - it's </span><i style="background-color: white;">really</i><span style="background-color: white;"> deppresive if you have to go to the hospital alone every time. I spent the weekend drinking lots of water and eating light stuff. On Sunday I was much better, must have had some food poisoning.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;">We also welcomed a new friend, </span><i style="background-color: white;">Sahej</i><span style="background-color: white;">, from India, who brought us very interesting conversations, food experiences - Indian food is great! -, love for photography and trip plans.</span><br />
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<b><i>Março</i></b></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">Until April our two projects were opened and runing between leopard and turtle speed according to our customers mood and their willing to help us to located the equipment items that could not be found. Parallel to that we're going through the market research for each equipment category.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">In the middle of March a great friend left, </span><i style="background-color: white;">Eric</i><span style="background-color: white;">, from China. And then soon arrived the new intern from another company from sister from mine, </span><i style="background-color: white;">Bart</i><span style="background-color: white;">, from the Netherlands. From this moment on I can say some things: I spent much less time lonely, we always've been hanging out, we've found new friends, new restaurants, I started to eat much better recovering my weight, stopped getting sick and spent much mroe money, haha. At the same time I've also met </span><i style="background-color: white;">Zhengyu</i><span style="background-color: white;">, also from China, who brought friendship and many deep reflections about culture, history and differences between China, Asia and the rest of the world.</span><br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">End</span></b></div>
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<b><i>April</i></b></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">In mid-April we had another big holiday here. I combined my last vacation days and then me and Cá planned a trip around Indonesia. However before going there she spent a week here in Cambodia so she could have glimpse of my life around here.</span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BAyRf6y1UUU/T5UAtqX5TYI/AAAAAAAABPQ/kdU7ENddnPo/s1600/IMG_70791.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="131" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BAyRf6y1UUU/T5UAtqX5TYI/AAAAAAAABPQ/kdU7ENddnPo/s200/IMG_70791.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
<span style="background-color: white;">We started our trip with flight between </span><i style="background-color: white;">Phnom Penh</i><span style="background-color: white;"> and </span><i style="background-color: white;">Kuala Lumpur</i><span style="background-color: white;">, a deadly slept night at airport's ground and then a fligh to </span><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/04/starting-with-yogyakarta.html" style="background-color: white;"><i>Yogyakarta</i> </a><span style="background-color: white;">in </span><i style="background-color: white;">Java</i><span style="background-color: white;">, Indonesia. The monuments of </span><i style="background-color: white;">Borobudur</i><span style="background-color: white;"> and </span><i style="background-color: white;">Prambanan</i><span style="background-color: white;"> represent the Buddhist and Hindu influence in the country's history although today the majority are Muslims.</span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FuKv2sdKW6I/T5d_CB-foPI/AAAAAAAABSo/2svGQkzhSoc/s1600/IMG_72851.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="131" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FuKv2sdKW6I/T5d_CB-foPI/AAAAAAAABSo/2svGQkzhSoc/s200/IMG_72851.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
<span style="background-color: white;">We hit the road for more than 12 hours within crazy traffic and roads in </span><i style="background-color: white;">Java </i><span style="background-color: white;">and finally made it to </span><i style="background-color: white;"><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/04/exploring-bromo.html">Mt Bromo</a></i><span style="background-color: white;"> area. The incredible scenery of a volcano in which we could watch the sunrise and then get closer to its crater by horse. Here was where I took the lowest temperatures within 1 year, around 4oC. Totally unexpected in a place so close to the Equator's line.</span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-J5iD4pqhDzM/T9rs079pJNI/AAAAAAAAB2w/dugbX6lFwds/s1600/IMG_7493.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="131" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-J5iD4pqhDzM/T9rs079pJNI/AAAAAAAAB2w/dugbX6lFwds/s200/IMG_7493.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: white;">In our next stop we went to a more misterious place, </span><i style="background-color: white;"><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/04/what-to-find-in-kawah-ijen.html">Kawah Ijen</a></i><span style="background-color: white;">, at </span><i style="background-color: white;">Java's </i><span style="background-color: white;">Eastern region. The park looked like closed or abandoned. We haven't seen anyone for hours and the step way was very cold. From far we could notice the sulfur smell and the white clouds would confirm that we were close. </span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JeHr4UH1QUM/T54DQMslyKI/AAAAAAAABXA/OI5k6sa7M5A/s1600/IMG_7513.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="131" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JeHr4UH1QUM/T54DQMslyKI/AAAAAAAABXA/OI5k6sa7M5A/s200/IMG_7513.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
<span style="background-color: white;">Between </span><i style="background-color: white;">Java </i><span style="background-color: white;">and </span><i style="background-color: white;">Bali</i><span style="background-color: white;"> we had to go through </span><i style="background-color: white;">Bayuwangi</i><span style="background-color: white;"> where we could take the ferry. And after 4h in a bus in </span><i style="background-color: white;">Bali - </i><span style="background-color: white;">which was in fact much bigger than I expected - we made it to </span><i style="background-color: white;">Kuta</i><span style="background-color: white;">. We rented a car and started our highly exciting adventure until our next stop of </span><i style="background-color: white;"><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/05/exploring-bali-tanah-lot-and-ubud.html">Tanah Lot and Ubud</a></i><span style="background-color: white;">. While the first place it's close to the sea, the other one sits in the mountains in the middle of the forest and it's almost a retreat area for being so tranquil.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX71-38WIFE1Du52ArAOFxspy9D2qP7QmnIpR6T-EzYEBVFrb1p6-QHQvqsbb3qndGb1dVI7IReFu3myj60aHpG3B7qJqSi6Z3EILQpWgmMZ54SrYKra_G_7Lrg9Dnj7HiHq30OMJCkJuX/s1600/IMG_77181.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="131" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX71-38WIFE1Du52ArAOFxspy9D2qP7QmnIpR6T-EzYEBVFrb1p6-QHQvqsbb3qndGb1dVI7IReFu3myj60aHpG3B7qJqSi6Z3EILQpWgmMZ54SrYKra_G_7Lrg9Dnj7HiHq30OMJCkJuX/s200/IMG_77181.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
<span style="background-color: white;">The mountaineous region of Bali offers many side trips, some interesting ones include </span><i style="background-color: white;">Goa <a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/05/exploring-bali-goa-gajah-tegalalang.html">Gajah and Tegalalang</a></i><span style="background-color: white;">. </span><i style="background-color: white;">Goa Gajah </i><span style="background-color: white;">has a very misterious cave called the </span><i style="background-color: white;">Elephant Cave </i><span style="background-color: white;">and even a ancient bathing area now full of fish. In </span><i style="background-color: white;">Tegalalang </i><span style="background-color: white;">we'd see on of the most impressive views in the whole trip, the rice terraces, a picture of the Balinese engineering skills facing the environemnt restrictions.</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_41kyCjM02M/T6SYHe1KG1I/AAAAAAAABcU/3cg9zYkBoXs/s1600/IMG_7782.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="131" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_41kyCjM02M/T6SYHe1KG1I/AAAAAAAABcU/3cg9zYkBoXs/s200/IMG_7782.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<span style="background-color: white;">Our last stop in </span><i style="background-color: white;">Bali </i><span style="background-color: white;">were the locations of </span><i style="background-color: white;"><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/05/exploring-bali-bedugul-bukit-peninsula.html">Bedugul and Bukit Peninsula</a></i><span style="background-color: white;"> and despite being described in the same post these locations are totally opposite and different. </span><i style="background-color: white;">Bedugul </i><span style="background-color: white;">locates in the island most mountaineous parts, almost under rain and clouds and more difficult to be reached. </span><i style="background-color: white;">Bukit Peninsula </i><span style="background-color: white;">is all the way South and has a very dry weather with cliff backed beaches.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0BO8Kku4xvK4Bc8gdIJ3F_JPXfRTnjVTlvefmCuuY-ma0HEo4kqOoX-G1vUPT37CEVqZvKVB58dD1vOW_SZ1MrF6Z40XuzyQ8R2ttWGqP8ZBZbHBNYKnlRjjqO3YR73q76778PabxnHX4/s1600/IMG_80211.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="111" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0BO8Kku4xvK4Bc8gdIJ3F_JPXfRTnjVTlvefmCuuY-ma0HEo4kqOoX-G1vUPT37CEVqZvKVB58dD1vOW_SZ1MrF6Z40XuzyQ8R2ttWGqP8ZBZbHBNYKnlRjjqO3YR73q76778PabxnHX4/s200/IMG_80211.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
<span style="background-color: white;">Finally, our last Indonesian experience was visiting the </span><i style="background-color: white;"><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/05/three-marys-gilli-islands.html">Gilli Islands</a></i><span style="background-color: white;">, three small round shaped islands located next to each other and between </span><i style="background-color: white;">Bali </i><span style="background-color: white;">and </span><i style="background-color: white;">Lombok</i><span style="background-color: white;">. A wonderful place to enjoy the world without cars or motorbikes, walk around the islands, go for snorkelling or diving. We also got impressed about the price of the things which were not that expensive.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;">Indonesia impressed us a lot, much more than we had expected. We've found lovely and helpful people and endless touristic options. Mountain, beach, volcano, forest, everything you can find there. Saying goodbye to Cá for the second time was horrible, it looked like a piece of me left that day and I still had to wait for another 15 hours for my flight. :(</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;">Combing back to Cambodia I was sad for some days but then came back to normal and kept going on. Our customers inspections had finally finished and since the same happened to the market price research I put all the information together, programmed the spreadsheet and the equipment side was concluded! :)</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;">We've found a 'travel window' on May and then asked our bosses, me and </span><i style="background-color: white;">Bart</i><span style="background-color: white;">, if we could take the big holiday and add extra days to it compensating those days by working in other small holidays. And that was what we've done and made our unexpected trip to Myanmar feasible.</span><br />
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<b><i>May</i></b><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;">This month went very easy, both at work and outside of it. Me, </span><i style="background-color: white;">Bart</i><span style="background-color: white;">, </span><i style="background-color: white;">Sahej</i><span style="background-color: white;"> and </span><i style="background-color: white;">Zhengyu</i><span style="background-color: white;">, went to hangout many times. Have tremendous dinner experiences with Indian food and did some trips, a small one and close and a big one and far.</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VazABOaYtHY/T6t6_4rsnlI/AAAAAAAABiA/stxvCMuUhIM/s1600/IMG_81671.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="139" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VazABOaYtHY/T6t6_4rsnlI/AAAAAAAABiA/stxvCMuUhIM/s200/IMG_81671.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
<span style="background-color: white;">Our small trip was a half-weekend at </span><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/05/phearums-homeland.html" style="background-color: white;"><i>Phearum's </i>homeland</a><span style="background-color: white;">, one of my staff member, an unique and remarkable experience. We could get very close to the Cambodians living outside of the cities. We're so well treated and served that we have a huge debt with his family. They made our favorite dishes and never ran out of food or beer.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;">And the question stands: how so simple people, living so basically, can smile so much and treat so well their guests? That's magic of the </span><i style="background-color: white;">Khmer </i><span style="background-color: white;">people, something I haven't seen anywhere else. I think that being close to hunger, with loss and suffering bring people a new perspective. Everything is minor and less important if you can eat, be close to the ones you love and not be afraid of being killed at any time. When and why we became so moody in the Western world? It has always been easy to explain why we are unhappy or unconfortable but it has been much more difficult to justify why being happy. Is that right? Well, the fact is that I've heard that before but it's the true. If there's anything that's exclusive of Cambodia and they may be poor, have lack of education, this and that, etc., but yes they are, </span><i style="background-color: white;">happier</i><span style="background-color: white;">. </span><i style="background-color: white;"><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2011/09/e-estranho.html">É estranho...</a> </i><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kvUKiwRv88w/T7sJejaBitI/AAAAAAAABow/lVnITOmCqTg/s1600/IMG_97911.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="126" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kvUKiwRv88w/T7sJejaBitI/AAAAAAAABow/lVnITOmCqTg/s200/IMG_97911.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
<span style="background-color: white;">Our second trip was to explore a quite unknown place in Southeast Asia, except for its recent polictical reforms, Myanmar. In the former capital of </span><i style="background-color: white;"><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/05/what-do-you-know-about-myanmar-1st-stop.html">Yangon</a> </i><span style="background-color: white;">we got impressed by the country's most famous monument, </span><i style="background-color: white;">Shwedagon Pagoda</i><span style="background-color: white;">. Besides of course of helpful, friendly and extremely curious people we've met there. It's a fact that </span><i style="background-color: white;">Yangon </i><span style="background-color: white;">has a 'lost in time' appearance due its many years without proper investiment and enclosure. However, the city seems to be very busy with the streets packed with people until 9 pm. Moreover, one should not worry about safety, robbering and murders.</span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dvOowzP-49s/T7tVMjPNtsI/AAAAAAAABqw/cYnFEv-poME/s1600/IMG_84461.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="131" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dvOowzP-49s/T7tVMjPNtsI/AAAAAAAABqw/cYnFEv-poME/s200/IMG_84461.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
<span style="background-color: white;">Our second stop was in the most famous touristic spot in Myanmar, the archeologic heritage of </span><i style="background-color: white;"><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/05/misterious-bagan.html">Bagan</a></i><span style="background-color: white;">, in the country's central region. We're not talking about some Buddhist temples but more than 2,000 religious structures spread in a small area. That creates a movie looking like impression as if you were back some hundreds and hundreds of years. In fact the most breathtaking part of the trip was to climb the big temples and watch the scenery.</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_iN_8F9jm5k/T73cNL4CgXI/AAAAAAAABxE/VBMwl4PiVnw/s1600/IMG_92291.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="105" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_iN_8F9jm5k/T73cNL4CgXI/AAAAAAAABxE/VBMwl4PiVnw/s200/IMG_92291.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
<span style="background-color: white;">Finally, before coming back to Cambodia, we went to the </span><i style="background-color: white;"><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/05/untouched-myanmar-inle-lake.html">Inle Lake</a> </i><span style="background-color: white;">area, Myanmar's Northeastern part. Again we were surprised to find the interesting ways life goes according to the surrounding environment. The people who live in this like learned how to row with the legs so they could have both arms free for fishing. So they could have some place to live they built houses over the water. And so they could had some agriculture practice in the swamp looking like areas they developed extensive tomato plantations.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;">Myanmar was an outlier experience and it was even more special because we were there just before the country starts to open. We probably have seen a picture that we'll look very different in the next 10-15 years.</span><br />
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<b><i>June</i></b><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;">And all this takes me to June. The exotic country that made scaried about walking in the streets? I don't know anymore. The broken social circle or the emptiness of referrences in </span><i style="background-color: white;">Phnom Penh</i><span style="background-color: white;"> feeling as a foreigner? I don't feel either. Living abroad is something like that: you get into a roller-coaster, go up, down, warm and cold, and in some particular moment that you can't even notice, you get used to that. The place becomes your home and instead of aggresive it turns confortable. </span><i style="background-color: white;">Phnom Penh </i><span style="background-color: white;">it's a really good city to retire or to live with comparatively lower salaries for Western standards.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;">June came in a farewell mood, and so it's being. First, in the beginning of the month we said goodbye to </span><i style="background-color: white;">Sahej</i><span style="background-color: white;">, our Indian, partner of ups and downs. And soon I will go to. I alredy wished the clock to go faster while here but now I think it could go slower. That's life, at the same time I'm excited to visit China and get back to Brazil, there's the feeling that holds me here, that doesn't want to let the friends and the simples life I've found here to go.</span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ALw3pbsI65I/T-KYHc_NKAI/AAAAAAAAB3M/cdgvM3icG6g/s1600/IMG_9897.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="131" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ALw3pbsI65I/T-KYHc_NKAI/AAAAAAAAB3M/cdgvM3icG6g/s200/IMG_9897.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
<span style="background-color: white;">Since we concluded all our work within the garment factories - delivering the final report and the money switching hands - the owners of our company decided to treat us with a full-paid weekend in </span><i style="background-color: white;">Sihanoukville</i><span style="background-color: white;"> in the last holiday. We went there squeezed but it was a very funny experience and an official moment for all of us to celebrate. We did our trip to </span><i style="background-color: white;">Bokkor Mountain</i><span style="background-color: white;">, which surprised us for the high quality roads and the cold and wind in the top. The Cambodians got so excited about the fog and cold - </span><i style="background-color: white;">fantastic </i><span style="background-color: white;">according to them.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;">In the last saturday I had my </span><i style="background-color: white;">farewell </i><span style="background-color: white;">party, and for my happiness almost all of our staff attended to it and some other great friends I've met here in Cambodia. So I could summarize all the meaning of this experience and pay my respect to the people that contributed to that, I made this video that was shown in the party.</span><br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/qxvwZIFTfus?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">On 29th I take my flight, this time for the last time leaving from </span><i>Phnom Pen</i><span style="background-color: white;"> in some years. Every day that grows in my mind and makes me wonder about my experience here, my learning, mistakes and correct decisions, etc.</span></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02152018193849879223noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4089077439641967020.post-64547611737705915302012-06-25T21:54:00.001+07:002012-06-26T11:21:28.798+07:00Retrospectiva<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/06/retrospective.html">English Version</a></b></div>
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Durante todo esse tempo por aqui eu tentei manter a disciplina de escrever no blog e refletir e até escrevi num diário por algum tempo. Meu maior medo sempre foi de que as 'verdades' encontradas se perdessem no futuro.</div>
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Vou tentar agora transportar vocês pra uma seqüência mais corrida dos fatos e dos sentimentos que foram nesses 10 meses de Sudeste Asiático. Do momento em que eu pus meus pés aqui, até os últimos dias. - É também uma oportunidade incrível para amigos e parentes desnaturados pegarem o 'resumão' e se interarem das coisas, hahaha.</div>
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Cheguei por aqui no dia 1o de setembro de 2011. Em plena estação das monções, pela manhã o dia estava quente, abafado mas com céu aberto. Do alto do avião, o que mais tinha me chamado atenção era o enorme espelho d'água que se formava em cima dos campos de arroz. </div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Início</span></b></div>
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<b><i>Setembro</i></b></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bE8_h55hbHU/TmDJKJfneMI/AAAAAAAAADw/SSox87pdvIo/s1600/DSCN1772.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="148" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bE8_h55hbHU/TmDJKJfneMI/AAAAAAAAADw/SSox87pdvIo/s200/DSCN1772.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
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Minha primeira impressão de <i>Phnom Penh</i>, foi, na verdade, um choque. Dormi com as impressões de <a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2011/09/singapore-kuala-lampur-tour.html"><i>Cingapura </i>e <i>Kuala Lumpur</i></a> e acordei várias décadas atrás. Cheguei no meu quarto e a primeira coisa que pensei foi no cheiro de mofo que tomava conta dele. Mal sabia eu que eu tinha pisado ali, no maior quarto, e sob as melhores condições que eu vi durante todo o período em que morei por aqui.</div>
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Ainda que encontrei e fiz alguns amigos, não demorou talvez 1 semana pra me sentir muito sozinho. As pessoas falavam palavras que eu não entendia. Nos almoços ou nas reuniões da empresa raramente o inglês era falado e quando era muitas vezes num sotaque quase impossível de se entender. Pra piorar essa primeira imagem, eu presenciei um roubo na minha frente e isso me mergulhou numa paranóia sobre segurança que só veio a ser desfeito há alguns meses atrás.</div>
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Ainda assim nessa época estávamos com o nosso primeiro projeto. A reavaliação de uma empresa estatal que cuidava do abastecimento de água de <i>Phnom Penh</i> conhecida como <i>PPWSA</i>. Tivemos um momento interessante nessa época pois seria o primeiro relatório <i>que nunca foi feito antes</i>, as primeiras planilhas <i>que nunca foram montadas antes</i> e enfim.. tudo do zero. Um dos dias que eu me lembro claramente foi quando apresentei as "mágicas" do Excel como tabelas dinâmicas, fórmulas lógicas, etc. Comecei aqui também minha batalha clamando por eficiência, constantemente desafiada pelos terceirizados e uma rede de inércia sob a tomada de decisão que não convém discutir as causas aqui. Paralelamente comecei a tocar alguns projetos alternativos para a empresa. Mapeamento de alguns de nossos processos, tentativa de estabelecer um modelo de competências, o desenho de um treinamento em inglês, etc.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vhHd4J4WMjk/ToHwKKi7_GI/AAAAAAAAAIk/i997Sxejg9A/s1600/DSCN2153.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vhHd4J4WMjk/ToHwKKi7_GI/AAAAAAAAAIk/i997Sxejg9A/s200/DSCN2153.JPG" width="148" /></a>Ainda no mesmo mês que eu cheguei fiz minha primeira viagem. Na companhia de Patro (mexicano) e Mariana (brasileira) fomos pra <i><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2011/09/angkor-wat.html">Angkor Wat</a>. </i>Desafiamos uma das piores enchentes em anos, literalmente atravessando o "mar" do interior do Camboja com parte da estrada sendo a única coisa que não estava alagada. Foi também uma das aventuras mais cansativas que eu tive, com 52 km rodados em bicicletas sem marcha! :P</div>
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De volta à rotina, meu dia-a-dia era extremamente básico. US$ 1 pelo café-da-manhã, US$ 1 pelo almoço e US$ 1 pela janta. Total por mês igual US$ 90. E esse perfil foi assim até eu ter aumento de salário em janeiro de 2012. Ou seja, o resultado foi que eu perdi em torno de 8 kg rapidamente e sem perceber fui ficando vulnerável e com baixa resistência - mesmo tomando suplementos de vitaminas todos os dias.</div>
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<b><i>Outubro</i></b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEZWHDqm-7w9pBd0wNfPLm8UlI3m36-mBayAorScd_mJrAd3TPHQUVEKTBnk013zttbz4L2jbDNhULrONPLqrNALokj2HCfCvVyuXYm9fJjglFZPW7guJoCOhMnmuOV4qIMupjkF9g6dzw/s1600/DSCN1939.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEZWHDqm-7w9pBd0wNfPLm8UlI3m36-mBayAorScd_mJrAd3TPHQUVEKTBnk013zttbz4L2jbDNhULrONPLqrNALokj2HCfCvVyuXYm9fJjglFZPW7guJoCOhMnmuOV4qIMupjkF9g6dzw/s200/DSCN1939.JPG" width="200" /></a>Meus primeiros meses aqui foram marcados por uma reflexão constante sobre o genocídio, o histórico trágico do país e como as coisas aconteceram e onde elas vieram parar. O nome desse blog <i><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2011/10/holiday-in-cambodia.html">'Holiday in Cambodia'</a></i> é inspirado nessa temática. Nessa época comecei a ler o livro <i>'First They Killed My Father'</i>, e simplesmente não conseguia parar. Pude quase enxergar na minha mente o que aconteceu e chorei que nem criança com as cenas de horror e sofrimento. Me senti culpado, mimado, ingrato pela vida que eu tinha.</div>
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Sem perceber, eu comecei a me limitar, evita sair, evita me entreter, e me fechei. É difícil acreditar como as pessoas sorriem tanto na rua, vão pro trabalho, estudam, casam, etc., tendo passado por essa história. Mas no final eu entendi que, por tudo o que eles passaram, viver do passado ou da pena é o que ele menos precisam. Esquecer o sofrimento e criar mecanismos que evitem que dias terríveis como esses voltem é a solução. A melhor contribuição que eu posso dar é ajudar nessa transição pro mundo das coisas e dos sentimentos contemporâneos dos quais eles ficaram de fora por 30-40 anos e agora precisam aprender a lidar. Tenho certeza que me tornei uma pessoa mais feliz a partir daqui.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-O9sWxravQsk/Tq4SbGzt8hI/AAAAAAAAAM0/abGpT36sBeM/s1600/DSCN2379.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-O9sWxravQsk/Tq4SbGzt8hI/AAAAAAAAAM0/abGpT36sBeM/s200/DSCN2379.JPG" width="149" /></a>Tive a oportunidade de ir num <a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2011/10/felizes-para-sempre.html">casamento <i>Khmer</i></a>, bem tradicional, e me integrar mais à cultural local. Fui ficando acostumado a nós, ocidentais, sermos vistos como animais exóticos por onde nós passamos e por algum tempo eu acho que virei a atração principal no lugar dos noivos. Como diria <i>Zhengyu</i>, ainda que eu não concorde inteiramente, <i>"in Rome do like the Romans do"</i>, o que nessa situação inclui dançar com eles e beber cerveja com gelo.</div>
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<b><i>Novembro</i></b></div>
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Em novembro surgiu outro feriado grande por aqui e resolvi embarcar na minha primeira viagem internacional desde que tinha chegado. Haviam se passado apenas 2 meses e meio desde que eu cheguei. Porém, pisar no aeroporto foi uma sensação de voltar à "civilização". Meu destino foi o norte do Vietnã. Quando pus os pés em <a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2011/11/hanoi.html" style="font-style: italic;">Hanoi</a> imediatamente me encantei com a cidade. Pessoas andando no parque às 22h da noite? Isso era novidade. Árvores por todos os lados e temperaturas entre 18-25oC. Eu me convenci de que moraria facilmente por lá.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFYRLoBP3zve6ZOLLqleFCEaaa0if-QWg_6wAgRgOj3zKKjQ7xLNwJ18iV1xAapwrIfqJggYbUHhCZKkTIbXF2Fq7GX12eQDwSr6tBRhi6tlIGlcRkeB893G_BW0PEY9wSjQ9OK92ZpoCb/s1600/IMG_0482.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="131" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFYRLoBP3zve6ZOLLqleFCEaaa0if-QWg_6wAgRgOj3zKKjQ7xLNwJ18iV1xAapwrIfqJggYbUHhCZKkTIbXF2Fq7GX12eQDwSr6tBRhi6tlIGlcRkeB893G_BW0PEY9wSjQ9OK92ZpoCb/s200/IMG_0482.JPG" width="200" /></a>A minha experiência de Vietnã foi ainda mais impactante por ter conhecido o <i>Hau</i>, que na minha e dele inocência, nos tornamos grandes amigos e isso fez com que os meus dias por lá fossem muito especiais. Vi as paisagens absolutamente incríveis de <i><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2011/11/halong-bay.html">Halong Bay</a> </i>e <a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2011/11/tam-coc.html" style="font-style: italic;">Tam Coc</a> que só aumentaram minha admiração por esse país. Nos olhos, na fala, e na história do Vietnã você vê a força de um povo guerreiro que sobreviveu à ambição da China e à influência dos EUA. Ainda ouviremos muito sobre esse lugar.</div>
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<b><i>Dezembro</i></b></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IMM4UwCQGsY/Tv3AXlHsMMI/AAAAAAAAAms/4Un8gjqgzCs/s1600/IMG_0816.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IMM4UwCQGsY/Tv3AXlHsMMI/AAAAAAAAAms/4Un8gjqgzCs/s200/IMG_0816.JPG" width="131" /></a>Finalmente em dezembro, pude combinar feriados e férias novamente e reencontrei minha família e namorada. É difícil descrever como tempo é uma coisa relativa, não fazia 3 meses que eu havia me despedido de todos em São Paulo e eu sentia que estava distante há anos. Poder rever as pessoas que você ama numa cultura calorosa como a nossa é uma felicidade sem tamanho. Revisitamos <a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2011/12/cingapura.html"><i>Cingapura</i></a>, que agora tive tempo de conhecer de fato, e deixamos nosso queixos no chão com tamanha modernidade, eficiência, beleza urbanística e um sistema de regras draconiano. É incrível como um vôo de nem 2 horas pode decolar e pousar em tamanho contraste.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hmqpA1xJTlY/Twb-0-wOpaI/AAAAAAAAAtI/xlYLratkB-I/s1600/IMG_1012.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hmqpA1xJTlY/Twb-0-wOpaI/AAAAAAAAAtI/xlYLratkB-I/s200/IMG_1012.JPG" width="126" /></a>Seguindo o nosso cruzeiro, fomos também para <i><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/01/bangkok.html">Bangkok</a></i>, onde a emergência de modernidade propiciada pela globalização se funde com uma cultura liberal, porém convivendo lado a lado com a história e a cultura tailandesa tradicional. A Tailândia é hoje uma potência regional, tanto a nível de negócios como de tecnologia, educação, cuidados médicos, turismo e aviação. <i>Bangkok </i>é o exemplo disso. Arranhas-céus de instituições financeiras disputam lugar com casas, casas sob palafitas à beira do rio, e templos suntuosos. Em termos demográficos e territoriais, uma posição muito mais favorável do que a de <i>Cingapura</i>, restrita à uma ilha e uma população pequena.</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eU_Lk6B2M8A/TwmbDyVJDTI/AAAAAAAAAxQ/WAUYtEkk_xw/s1600/IMG_1262.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="131" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eU_Lk6B2M8A/TwmbDyVJDTI/AAAAAAAAAxQ/WAUYtEkk_xw/s200/IMG_1262.JPG" width="200" /></a>Ainda dentro da Tailândia descobrimos porque tantas pessoas vêm de tão longe pra lá. Além das riquezas culturais de <i>Bangkok</i>, outras maravilhas naturais existem mais ao sul do país, tanto do lado leste quando oeste. Mais precisamente <a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/01/ko-samui-e-phuket.html"><i>Ko Samui</i> e <i>Phuket</i></a> reservam uma experiência belíssima em termos de praias e mar. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jJILew2K4RY/TsZ0VkywVnI/AAAAAAAAAhA/beGf4FfnInI/s1600/DSCN1745.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jJILew2K4RY/TsZ0VkywVnI/AAAAAAAAAhA/beGf4FfnInI/s200/DSCN1745.JPG" width="148" /></a>Finalmente fizemos nosso caminho pela Malásia, um país que me chamou a atenção particularmente pela população muito heterogênea. Pessoas de origem local (muçulmanos), convivem outros de origem chinesa (budistas) e indiana (hindus) em relativa tranqüilidade. No entanto, é cada vez mais tensa em relação entre os muçulmanos e os demais grupos que se sentem pouco representados politicamente. <a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/01/kuala-lumpur.html"><i>Kuala Lumpur</i></a> é o reflexo disso sendo a maior cidade malaia, ao mesmo tempo em que é possível encontrar de tudo um pouco, vê-se pouca miscigenação na população.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WLounIbqlN8/TyS6CYWeWCI/AAAAAAAAA68/NuxZ-iE1I_4/s1600/IMG_1918.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="127" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WLounIbqlN8/TyS6CYWeWCI/AAAAAAAAA68/NuxZ-iE1I_4/s200/IMG_1918.JPG" width="200" /></a><i><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/01/langkawi.html">Langkawi</a> </i>tem o apelo mais natural, e não é pra menos, tivemos uma tarde sensacional viajando de barco entre os manguezais e vendo as águias se alimentando. Ainda que eu tivesse quase sonhado em subir no teleférico, quando chegamos lá estava fechado devido aos ventos e com filas enormes e não era o passeio mais apropriado pra quem tinha apenas um dia por ali.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-INAQX00uAVY/TzCzYVIPRGI/AAAAAAAAA_I/8zxJYIv9xVY/s1600/IMG_2212.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="131" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-INAQX00uAVY/TzCzYVIPRGI/AAAAAAAAA_I/8zxJYIv9xVY/s200/IMG_2212.JPG" width="200" /></a>Em seguida seguimos por <i><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/02/penang.html">Penang</a> </i>e <i><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/02/melaka.html">Melaka</a> </i>que congregam talvez o ápice de turismo cultural na Malásia. Penang é muito interessante pelos templos budistas familiares que apresentam quase uma arquitetura 'barroca-asiática' com muitos detalhes, adornos, enfeites, etc. Também ficou claro o poder da cultura chinesa/budista/confucionista nesses lugares. O culto ao conhecimento e à superação e aprimoramento. Nesses templos era comum ver o nome de cada membro da família, o seu curso de graduação, e o nome da universidade. Melaka segue mais ou menos na mesma linha mas com um apelo mais colonial devido à presença holandesa alguns séculos atrás.</div>
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Finalizada a nossa viagem primeiro tive que falar tchau pra Cá, o que já foi muito difícil. E, segundo, uma semana depois, me despedir da minha família aqui no Camboja. Esses dois 'eventos' me deixaram acabado na semana seguinte. Falar tchau depois que você já está no exterior é muito mais difícil. É o tipo de coisa que te faz querer ir embora, deixar os planos pra trás, e voltar. Nessa época mudamos de escritório, de empresa e de chefe com algumas implicações que eu só conseguiria entender direito lá na frente.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicPp9hY8kE9ZoMNC8UruYWrb_D8VlnB1VUSthE6tab7iB4SWKl5EqUH6pKOubh6S3bICkcpTYdqiNN9buO0BTfhVXtfZ1HYKOH1wp98DYy74qYHUck4gxBVOWlgjDH5pNQ_Qx2qYqf6R0c/s1600/IMG_2851.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="131" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicPp9hY8kE9ZoMNC8UruYWrb_D8VlnB1VUSthE6tab7iB4SWKl5EqUH6pKOubh6S3bICkcpTYdqiNN9buO0BTfhVXtfZ1HYKOH1wp98DYy74qYHUck4gxBVOWlgjDH5pNQ_Qx2qYqf6R0c/s200/IMG_2851.JPG" width="200" /></a>Nossa empresa fretou um ônibus, carregou de comida e bebida e nos deu dois dias de comemoração no final do ano pra fazer o <a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/02/contagem-regressiva-em-sihanoukville.html"><i>'countdown'</i> na cidade de <i>Sihanoukville</i></a>. Enquanto a festa foi muito boa e todos se divertiram o dia todo, o <i>'countdown' </i>em si foi frustrante e até um pouco triste. Ao invés dos abraços e das mensagens de ano novo, saúde e etc., nada, alguns brindes e fomos embora dormir. Mas no outro dia estava tudo bem de novo, não se preocupem! :)</div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Meio</span></b>
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<b><i>Janeiro</i></b></div>
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Depois da virada do ano, nessa mesma cidade eu fui representar a nossa empresa diante de um novo projeto que estava nascendo. A reavaliação do Porto de <i>Sihanoukville</i>, cujo IPO deve ocorrer muito em breve. Eles fizeram uma apresentação bem interessante sobre custos de frete de acordo com os portos disponíveis na região, os futuros projetos a serem desenvolvidos com o dinheiro do IPO, etc. </div>
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O começo de 2012 foi a fase mais estressante do meu trabalho aqui no Camboja, mas não só daqui, foi profissionalmente o período mais estressante da minha vida. </div>
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Pegamos alguns projetos de reavaliação de indústrias têxteis que estão querendo fazer IPO das suas fábricas daqui. O primeiro choque foi entrar em uma indústria têxtil da Ásia, cujas condições de trabalho são bem discutíveis. Um batalhão de mulheres, mais de 3.000, costurando, passando, pregando, etc., peças de roupa de marcas bem famosas, entre elas Adidas. Eu vi pessoas sendo carregadas depois de desmaiarem devido ao calor e o cheiro de produtos químicos, chineses gritando com os funcionários, banheiros em condições imundas, etc. Em uma fábrica, que não fornecia pra Adidas, eu <i>acho</i> que talvez tenha visto trabalho infantil, o que tem margem de erro porque as pessoas são muito pequenas em geral.</div>
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Impressões à parte, coordenei a nossa equipe de inspeção várias vezes quando visitando a fábrica. Porém, um erro crasso na hora de dimensionamento do projeto fez com que a expectativa de prazo do cliente fosse totalmente incompatível com o nível de complexidade que encontramos no local. Havia mais de 6.000 equipamentos, boa parte em uso, que mudavam de localização de um dia pro outro. Meu chefe havia negociado 2 dias para finalizar essa inspeção. O tempo final de conclusão foi 3 meses. Ao mesmo tempo me doía o coração às vezes ter que forçar nossos funcionários matarem aulas da faculdade pra que conseguíssemos ficar mais tempo na fábrica.</div>
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Nessa época eu cheguei no escritório quase todos os dias às 7h da manhã e várias vezes voltei pra casa às 22h. O volume de informação que tinha que ser processado de um dia pro outro e consolidado era enorme e não tínhamos processo estabelecido pra isso. Aos poucos o nosso cliente começou a ser extremamente rude com os nosso funcionários - por vezes negando-lhes almoço e água -, depois começou a ser rude comigo e finalmente começou a gritar no telefone com o meu chefe.</div>
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Num dos dias que estava visitando a fábrica comecei a ter as dores nas costas, que depois começaram a descer pra barriga e pra virilha. Chegou uma hora que ficou impossível, e a única coisa que eu conseguia fazer era gemer e suar frio. Fui então apresentado à minha primeira <a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/01/uma-pedra-no-rim.html">crise de pedras no rim</a> e a felicidade de ter contratado um bom seguro saúde.</div>
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Antes de terminar o mês tive que fazer uma segunda visita ao hospital por ter sintomas de malária - febre alta, dores fortes no corpo, etc. Graças a Deus não era malária nem dengue, apenas uma infecção bacteriana mas rendeu uma noite de hospital de novo.</div>
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<b><i>Fevereiro</i></b></div>
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Mal tinha me recuperado e saído do hospital devendo a continuidade do projeto anterior, nossa empresa pegou outro de outra fábrica têxtil mas dessa vez com 8.000 itens espalhados em 3 plantas diferentes. E mais uma vez os prazos fantasiosos rodaram na mesa de negociação. Só a parte de inspeção levou em torno de 3 meses também sendo que o tempo negociado inicialmente era de 2 semanas.</div>
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Gerenciar uma equipe <i>Khmer</i> também não foi fácil. As nossas diferenças culturais são enormes e isso se traduz na forma de lidar com trabalho, tarefas, prazos, etc. Quando um prazo é dado no meu entender, é pra ser cumprido, no entender local é apenas uma tentativa. Tentei implementar uma forma de competição entre os nossos funcionários em que o número de equipamentos inspecionados por dia era colocado num gráfico e um ranking que eram atualizados diariamente. O resultado foi interessante e realmente puxou a eficiência das inspeções pra um patamar mais alto. De prêmio um deles levou uma ida ao bar de graça. Nesse período também escrevi vários procedimentos e processos de forma a tornar as coisas padronizadas e mais fáceis de serem administradas baseadas no sufoco que estávamos tendo naquele momento.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_nqhoHDdGXM/T11rze_W3NI/AAAAAAAABIQ/Kc0TyK3EETc/s1600/IMG_62742.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="154" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_nqhoHDdGXM/T11rze_W3NI/AAAAAAAABIQ/Kc0TyK3EETc/s200/IMG_62742.jpg" width="200" /></a>Em fevereiro fizemos uma viagem de um único dia pra <i><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/03/mekong-island.html">Mekong Island</a> </i>próximo a <i>Phnom Penh</i> onde pudemos relembrar um pouco a vida simples do interior do Camboja - já fazia um tempo que eu não passeava pelo interior. Pudemos ver a produção artesanal de seda e também uma pequena praia de areia no meio do rio. Uma realidade completamente diferente da cidade que estava a apenas 30 minutos dali. </div>
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Eventualmente na minha cabeça se sucediam mini-crises sobre as condições do Camboja. Por várias vezes me revoltei contra a corrupção escancarada, a falta de aderência às regras, a ingerência pública (e privada), etc. A sensação de que tudo estava errado era muito grande e realmente sufocava. Eu ainda tenho com freqüência um pré-julgamento de todas as pessoas que têm carros grandes como se todos fossem corruptos e sangue-sugas. Nem precisa me dizer que está errado pensar assim.</div>
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Nesse mês também fiquei doente de novo, com dores de estômago muito fortes e diarréia. Dessa vez me neguei a ir ao hospital - é muito deprimente ficar indo no hospital sozinho toda hora. Fiquei o final-de-semana em casa bebendo muita água e comendo coisa leve. No domingo não tinha mais nada, devia ter sido alguma comida estragada.<br />
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Também chegou um novo amigo, Sahej, da Índia que trouxe muitas conversas interessantes, experiências gastronômicas - comida indiana é o máximo! -, paixão por fotografia e planos de viagens.<br />
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<b><i>Março</i></b></div>
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Até abril os nossos dois projetos estavam em aberto e oscilando entre pressa e passo de tartaruga de acordo com o humor dos nosso clientes em cooperarem com a localização dos equipamentos que ainda não puderam ser achados. Paralelamente a isso estávamos conduzindo as pesquisas de preço de mercado para cada categoria de equipamento.</div>
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No meio de março um grande amigo nosso foi embora, Eric, da China. E logo chegou o novo intercambista de outra empresa do mesmo grupo que a minha, o Bart, da Holanda. Daqui pra frente posso dizer algumas coisas: fiquei muito menos sozinho, sempre saímos, encontramos amigos, decobrimos restaurantes, passei a comer muito melhor então engordei e as doenças diminuíram e gastei muito mais dinheiro, haha. Nessa mesma época também conheci o Zhengyu, também da China, que trouxe uma amizade com muitas reflexões profundas sobre cultura e história e as diferenças entre a China e a Ásia do resto mundo.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Fim</span></b>
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<b><i>Abril</i></b></div>
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Em meados de abril tive outro grande feriado por aqui. Combinei com as últimas férias a que tinha direito e eu e a Cá planejamos uma viagem pra Indonésia. Antes porém ela ficou 1 semana aqui no Camboja e pôde conhecer um pedacinho da minha vida por aqui.</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BAyRf6y1UUU/T5UAtqX5TYI/AAAAAAAABPQ/kdU7ENddnPo/s1600/IMG_70791.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="131" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BAyRf6y1UUU/T5UAtqX5TYI/AAAAAAAABPQ/kdU7ENddnPo/s200/IMG_70791.jpg" width="200" /></a>Começamos a nossa viagem com um vôo entre <i>Phnom Penh</i> e <i>Kuala Lumpur</i>, uma dormida mortal no chão do aeroporto de lá e depois um vôo pra <a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/04/comecando-por-yogyakarta.html"><i>Yogyakarta</i> </a>em <i>Java</i>, na Indonésia. Os monumentos de <i>Borobudur </i>e <i>Prambanan</i> representam a influência budista e hindu na história do pais. Hoje no entanto a maioria é muçulmana. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FuKv2sdKW6I/T5d_CB-foPI/AAAAAAAABSo/2svGQkzhSoc/s1600/IMG_72851.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="131" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FuKv2sdKW6I/T5d_CB-foPI/AAAAAAAABSo/2svGQkzhSoc/s200/IMG_72851.jpg" width="200" /></a>Pegamos nosso caminho de doze horas por estradas insanas em <i>Java </i>até chegarmos à região de <i><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/04/explorando-bromo.html">Mt Bromo</a>.</i> A incrível paisagem de um vulcão em que pudemos ver primeiro o sol nascer de forma magnífica e depois chegar até a beirada da cratera à cavalo. Aqui foi onde peguei as temperaturas mais baixas em quase 1 ano, cerca de 4oC no amanhecer. Totalmente inesperado num lugar que está muito próximo da linha do Equador.</div>
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Em nossa próxima parada seguimos para um lugar mais misterioso, <i><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/04/o-que-encontrar-em-kawah-ijen.html">Kawah Ijen</a></i>, já bem a leste da ilha de <i>Java</i>. O parque na região parecia estar fechado e até abandonado. Não vimos ninguém por horas e o caminho era íngreme e estava frio. De longe o cheio de enxofre e fumaça branca no céu anunciava que já estávamos chegando perto.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JeHr4UH1QUM/T54DQMslyKI/AAAAAAAABXA/OI5k6sa7M5A/s1600/IMG_7513.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="131" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JeHr4UH1QUM/T54DQMslyKI/AAAAAAAABXA/OI5k6sa7M5A/s200/IMG_7513.jpg" width="200" /></a>Entre <i>Java </i>e <i>Bali</i> tivemos que passa por <i>Bayuwangi</i> onde pegamos a balsa. E depois de 4h de ônibus dentro de <i>Bali</i> - que se mostrou surpreendentemente grande - conseguimos chegar em <i>Kuta</i>. Alugamos um carro e iniciamos nossas altas emoções até o nosso primeiro passeio em <a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/05/exploring-bali-tanah-lot-and-ubud.html" style="font-style: italic;">Tanah Lot e Ubud</a>. Enquanto o primeiro lugar é à beira do mar, o segundo fica nas montanhas no meio da floresta e é quase um retiro espiritual de tão tranquilo.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX71-38WIFE1Du52ArAOFxspy9D2qP7QmnIpR6T-EzYEBVFrb1p6-QHQvqsbb3qndGb1dVI7IReFu3myj60aHpG3B7qJqSi6Z3EILQpWgmMZ54SrYKra_G_7Lrg9Dnj7HiHq30OMJCkJuX/s1600/IMG_77181.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="131" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX71-38WIFE1Du52ArAOFxspy9D2qP7QmnIpR6T-EzYEBVFrb1p6-QHQvqsbb3qndGb1dVI7IReFu3myj60aHpG3B7qJqSi6Z3EILQpWgmMZ54SrYKra_G_7Lrg9Dnj7HiHq30OMJCkJuX/s200/IMG_77181.jpg" width="200" /></a>A região montanhosa de <i>Bali </i>oferece inúmeros passeios, uns bem interessantes incluem <a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/05/explorando-bali-goa-gajah-e-tegalalang.html" style="font-style: italic;">Goa Gajah e Tegalalang</a>. <i>Goa Gajah</i> contém uma caverna muito misteriosa também chamada de <i>Elephant Temple</i> e ainda um antigo local de banho agora cheio de peixes. Em <i>Tegalalang</i> encontramos umas das vistas mais impressionantes de toda a viagem, os terraços de arroz, retrato da engenhosidade dos balineses em contornar os limites impostas pelo relevo.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_41kyCjM02M/T6SYHe1KG1I/AAAAAAAABcU/3cg9zYkBoXs/s1600/IMG_7782.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="131" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_41kyCjM02M/T6SYHe1KG1I/AAAAAAAABcU/3cg9zYkBoXs/s200/IMG_7782.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
Nossa última parada em <i>Bali </i>foi nas localidades de <a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/05/explorando-bali-bedugul-bukit-peninsula.html"><i>Bedugul </i>e <i>Bukit Peninsula</i></a> que embora estejam descritas no mesmo post são totalmente opostas e diferentes. <i>Bedugul</i> fica nas partes mais montanhosas da ilha, quase sempre sob chuva e nuvens e de acesso um pouco mais complicado. A <i>Bukit Peninsula</i> fica no extremo sul e apresenta clima bem seco e praias de paredões.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0BO8Kku4xvK4Bc8gdIJ3F_JPXfRTnjVTlvefmCuuY-ma0HEo4kqOoX-G1vUPT37CEVqZvKVB58dD1vOW_SZ1MrF6Z40XuzyQ8R2ttWGqP8ZBZbHBNYKnlRjjqO3YR73q76778PabxnHX4/s1600/IMG_80211.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="111" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0BO8Kku4xvK4Bc8gdIJ3F_JPXfRTnjVTlvefmCuuY-ma0HEo4kqOoX-G1vUPT37CEVqZvKVB58dD1vOW_SZ1MrF6Z40XuzyQ8R2ttWGqP8ZBZbHBNYKnlRjjqO3YR73q76778PabxnHX4/s200/IMG_80211.jpg" width="200" /></a>Finalmente, a nossa última experiência na Indonésia foi visitando as <i><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/05/as-tres-marias-gilli-islands.html">Gilli Islands</a></i>, um conjunto de pequenas ilhas redondas próximas umas às outras entre <i>Bali </i>e <i>Lombok</i>. Um ótimo lugar pra aproveitar o mundo sem carros e motos, perambular pelas ilhas e fazer <i>snorkelling </i>e mergulho. Impressionou também o preço não tão caro das coisas pela qualidade e localização.<br />
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A Indonésia nos impressionou e muito, acho que foi muito além da expectativa. Encontramos pessoas muito amigáveis e solícitas e um repertório turístico inesgotável. Montanha, praia, vulcão, floresta, tudo, lá tem. Me despedir da Cá pela segunda vez foi terrível, parece que saiu um pedaço de mim aquele dia e ainda fiquei esperando meu vôo no aeroporto por mais de 15h. :(<br />
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Voltando pro Camboja fiquei meio mal por alguns dias mas depois voltei ao normal e continuei em frente. Logo que eu voltei a inspeção com os nossos clientes tinha caminhado e foi concluída. Como já tínhamos terminado a pesquisa de preços, consolidei tudo e programei os cálculos na planilha. Enfim a parte de equipamentos estava finalizada! :)<br />
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Enxergamos uma janela de feriados em Maio e daí combinamos com nossos chefes, eu e o Bart, em pegar o feriado grande e somar dias extras se compensássemos esses dias trabalhando em outros feriados pequenos. E foi isso que fizemos e viabilizou nossa inesperada viagem pra Myanmar.<br />
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<b><i>Maio</i></b><br />
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Esse mês foi bem tranquilo, tanto no trabalho quanto fora dele. Eu, Bart, Sahej e Zhengyu, saímos juntos várias vezes. Tivemos tremendas experiências culinárias com comida indiana e fizemos algumas viagens, uma pequena e perto e outra grande e longe.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VazABOaYtHY/T6t6_4rsnlI/AAAAAAAABiA/stxvCMuUhIM/s1600/IMG_81671.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="139" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VazABOaYtHY/T6t6_4rsnlI/AAAAAAAABiA/stxvCMuUhIM/s200/IMG_81671.jpg" width="200" /></a>Nossa viagem pequena foi um meio final-de-semana na <a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/05/terra-natal-do-phearum.html">terra natal do <i>Phearum</i></a>, um dos membros da minha equipe, uma experiência muito forte e interessante. Pudemos ver bem de perto como vivem os cambojanos fora da cidade. Fomos tão bem tratados e servidos que temos uma enorme dívida com a família dele. Fizeram nossos pratos favoritos e em nenhum momento faltou comida ou cerveja.<br />
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E a pergunta fica de como pesoas tão simples, vivendo em situações tão básicas, conseguem sorrir tanto e ainda tratar tão bem seus convidados. Essa é a magia do povo <i>Khmer</i>, algo que eu não vi em nenhum outro lugar. Acho que a convivência com a fome, com a perda e o sofrimento trazem uma nova perspectiva às pessoas. Tudo é menor e menos importante se você pode comer, estar perto de quem você ama e não ter medo de ser morto a qualquer momento. Onde e porque nós nos tornamos pessoas tão voláteis no Ocidente? Sempre há facilidade pra justificar os problemas e os incômodos mas é muito difícil justificar por que ser feliz. Será que tá certo? Enfim, o fato é que já tinha ouvido isso antes mas é a mais pura verdade. Se tem algo que é exclusivo do Camboja e que sejam pobres, que sejam ignorantes, que sejam etc. mas eles são sim, mais felizes. <a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2011/09/e-estranho.html">É estranho...</a><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kvUKiwRv88w/T7sJejaBitI/AAAAAAAABow/lVnITOmCqTg/s1600/IMG_97911.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="126" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kvUKiwRv88w/T7sJejaBitI/AAAAAAAABow/lVnITOmCqTg/s200/IMG_97911.jpg" width="200" /></a>Nossa segunda viagem, foi explorar um lugar ainda muito pouco conhecido do Sudeste Asiático exceto pelo seu processo de reabertura política recente, Myanmar. Na ex-capital <i><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/05/o-que-voce-sabe-sobre-myanmar-1a-parada.html">Yangon</a></i> nos impressionamos pelo monumento mais importante de todo o país, a S<i>hwedagon Pagoda. </i>Além é claro de pessoas solícitas, amigáveis e extremamente curiosas que encontrarmos por lá. É fato que <i>Yangon</i> tem um ar decadente pelos vários anos de falta de investimentos e fechamento com o mundo exterior. Porém a cidade parece ser muito movimentada com as ruas lotadas de pessoas até às 21h. Além disso, nenhuma preocupação com segurança, roubos ou assaltos.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dvOowzP-49s/T7tVMjPNtsI/AAAAAAAABqw/cYnFEv-poME/s1600/IMG_84461.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="131" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dvOowzP-49s/T7tVMjPNtsI/AAAAAAAABqw/cYnFEv-poME/s200/IMG_84461.jpg" width="200" /></a>Nossa segunda parada foi o ponto turístico mais forte de Myanmar, o patrimônio arqueológico de <i><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/05/misteriosa-bagan.html">Bagan</a></i>, no centro do país. Não estamos falando de alguns templos budistas mas de mais de 2.000 estruturas religiosas espalhadas em um pequeno espaço. Isso cria uma impressão cinematográfica de que você está em algum tempo da Antiguidade. De fato a parte mais empolgante do passeio eram as vistas da região de cima dos templos grandes.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_iN_8F9jm5k/T73cNL4CgXI/AAAAAAAABxE/VBMwl4PiVnw/s1600/IMG_92291.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="105" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_iN_8F9jm5k/T73cNL4CgXI/AAAAAAAABxE/VBMwl4PiVnw/s200/IMG_92291.jpg" width="200" /></a>Por último, antes de retornarmos ao Camboja, fomos à região de <i><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/05/myanmar-intocada-inle-lake.html">Inle Lake</a></i>, na parte nordeste de Myanmar. Mais uma vez ficamos impressionados pelas formas interessantes que a vida assume de acordo com as circunstâncias. O povo que vive nesse lago aprendeu a remar com as pernas para poder deixar os braços livres enquanto pescavam. Para que tivessem onde morar desenvolveram a construção de casas sobre a água. E pra que pudessem produzir nas áreas encharcadas introduziram o cultivo extensivo do tomate.<br />
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Myanmar foi uma experiência fora do comum e ainda mais especial pelo fato de estarmos lá bem na hora em que o país está começando se liberalizar. Provavelmente vimos um retrato que vai estar muito diferente em 10-15 anos.<br />
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<b><i>Junho</i></b><br />
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E tudo isso me leva a junho. O país exótico em que andar na rua dava medo? Não conheço mais. O desconhecimento de pessoas e de lugares em <i>Phnom Penh</i> e a sensaçao de ser 'de fora'? Não tenho também. Morar no exterior é algo meio assim: você entra na montanha-russa, sobe, desce, esfria, esquenta, e em algum momento em que você nem percebe, você se acostuma com o vai e vem. O lugar vira o seu lar e ao invés de ser agressivo fica confortável. <i>Phnom Penh</i> é defintivamente uma cidade ótima pra se aposentar ou viver com um salário relativamente baixo para padrões ocidentais.<br />
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Junho entrou com clima de despedida, e assim está sendo. Primeiro, no começo do mês nos despedimos do Sahej, nosso amigo da Índia, parceiro de várias idas e vindas. E logo mais eu estou indo. Já quis que o relógio andasse mais rápido durante todo esse tempo mas hoje acho que ele poderia ir um pouco mais devagar. É a vida, ao mesmo tempo que a ansiedade me puxa pra frente pra visitar a China e reencontrar o Brasil, há a ansiedade que segura, que não quer abrir mão dos amigos, e da vida simples que eu encontrei por aqui.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ALw3pbsI65I/T-KYHc_NKAI/AAAAAAAAB3M/cdgvM3icG6g/s1600/IMG_9897.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="131" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ALw3pbsI65I/T-KYHc_NKAI/AAAAAAAAB3M/cdgvM3icG6g/s200/IMG_9897.JPG" width="200" /></a>Por termos finalmente finalizado o trabalho com as indústrias têxteis - entregado o relatório final e o dinheiro trocado de mãos - os donos da empresa resolveram nos dar um final-de-semana pago em <i>Sihanoukville</i> durante o último feriado. Fomos e voltamos apertados mas foi uma experiência muito divertida e o nosso último momento oficial todos juntos comemorando. Fizemos até um passeio pra <i>Bokkor Mountain</i>, que surpreendeu pela ótima condição das estradas e pelo frio e vento na parte de cima. Os cambojanos ficaram super entusiasmados com a neblina e com o frio - <i>fantástico</i> segundo eles.<br />
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No último sábado tive minha festa de <i>farewell</i>, e pra minha alegria quase todos os nossos funcionários puderam ir e mais alguns grandes amigos que eu conheci no Camboja. Pra poder resumir todo esse tempo de aventura, sobe e desce, descobertas e também homenagear as pessoas que contribuíram pra isso, fiz esse vídeo abaixo que foi exibido na festa.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/qxvwZIFTfus?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">Dia 29/06 pego o avião, dessa vez, pela última vez em algum tempo, saindo de </span><i style="background-color: white;">Phnom Penh. </i><span style="background-color: white;">Cada dia isso se torna algo mais relevante na minha cabeça e me faz pensar ainda mais sobre a minha experiência por aqui, os aprendizados, os erros, os acertos, etc.</span></div>
</div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02152018193849879223noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4089077439641967020.post-53972633909120867462012-06-20T14:44:00.000+07:002012-06-21T09:23:32.273+07:00A trip around China<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<b style="background-color: white; text-align: justify;">Finally, China</b><br />
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<b style="background-color: white; text-align: justify;"><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/06/uma-viagem-da-china.html">Versão em Português</a></b></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">After finishing my experience here in Cambodia - further posts will talk about that - I will get into an 1-month trip around China.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">This trip it's probably the one that most required me to get prepared and plan ahead compared to all trips I've done in the past year. To keep the costs under control, many nights will be spent on overnight trains, and so the trip could have a local taste, always when possible I will go with </span><a href="http://www.couchsurfing.org/" style="background-color: white;">Couchsurfing</a><span style="background-color: white;"> (For those who don't know what it is I recommend to read this </span><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CouchSurfing" style="background-color: white;">Wikipedia article</a><span style="background-color: white;">). And to avoid the need of having to check-in somewhere and making me very flexible I invested some money in a medium Deuter backpack which will carry only the basic stuff: some clothes, photography gear, hygiene stuff and food, just that. No, I won't become a dirty backpacker so I will do my laundry on the way.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;">One of the challenges of travelling in China is the language barrier. Most people don't speak English. I know that this is not a perfect solution but I will take an iPad with some download app's which will make very easier for me to access maps and translate most things to comprehensible Chinese so I can request or ask anything. </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">Well, maybe what make you most anxious about is the itinerary! I've designed under my Chinese friend Zhengyu supervision. The idea was to have all the steps planned especially due to budget concerns. I'm not any </span><i style="background-color: white;">Philleas Fogg</i><span style="background-color: white;"> but I'm really commited to that plan. In case I need to change it, it will be much easier because I can know where there is flexibility, where the trains depart from, etc.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;">The spreadsheet is very good and if anyone is planning to go to China just ask me and I will send it to you. I will try to track my budget to check if I can make it under it and then I will post the result. The actual estimative is 8,248 </span><i style="background-color: white;">yuans </i><span style="background-color: white;">which is around US$ 1,200. That includes everything besides getting in and out from China.</span><br />
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<iframe frameborder="0" height="350" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="https://maps.google.com/maps?f=d&source=s_d&saddr=Beijing&daddr=Datong+to:Pingyao,+Jinzhong,+Shanxi,+China+to:Xi'an,+Shaanxi,+China+to:Nanjing,+Jiangsu,+China+to:Suzhou,+Jiangsu,+China+to:Shanghai+to:Huangshan,+Anhui,+China+to:Xiamen,+Fujian,+China+to:Yongding,+Longyan,+Fujian,+China+to:Shenzhen,+Guangdong,+China&hl=en&geocode=FdbjYAIddTzwBim5LBTnllLwNTGKqQ-vIFZiuQ%3BFRCGYwIdntLABin1EWAVh9PiNTFzAh8AIIgZlg%3BFeB4NwIdiqyvBil_GIH8aQp1NjF-8FWNUrT06g%3BFZvXCgIdjVt-Bim5F6wi6XljNjEuWJSn_WbUhQ%3BFV8z6QEdTbIUBymDzY1mm4y1NTEGG995C7b7jw%3BFUaV3QEdZPwvBykHXtKb0aCzNTEEYHa9hX_lIQ%3BFbmJ3AEdqIo9BykzPPWxQHCyNTGhZMMjlBKVAg%3BFftoxQEdxK8NBynLHEgjNsQ1NDFJdVExID8xTw%3BFVyIdQEdzOYJBykn67_leYMUNDFW0GiWCmegKA%3BFfpBeQEdvDD1BiljYJKwxscWNDFGk04kI5VejQ%3BFfv6VwEdjGLMBimRUuHQCPQDNDHJgJK3DVXu_Q&aq=0&oq=shenzhen&sll=31.765537,115.092773&sspn=18.926549,43.286133&mra=ls&ie=UTF8&ll=31.765537,115.092773&spn=18.00924,12.53459&t=m&output=embed" width="425"></iframe></div>
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<small>View <a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?f=d&source=embed&saddr=Beijing&daddr=Datong+to:Pingyao,+Jinzhong,+Shanxi,+China+to:Xi'an,+Shaanxi,+China+to:Nanjing,+Jiangsu,+China+to:Suzhou,+Jiangsu,+China+to:Shanghai+to:Huangshan,+Anhui,+China+to:Xiamen,+Fujian,+China+to:Yongding,+Longyan,+Fujian,+China+to:Shenzhen,+Guangdong,+China&hl=en&geocode=FdbjYAIddTzwBim5LBTnllLwNTGKqQ-vIFZiuQ%3BFRCGYwIdntLABin1EWAVh9PiNTFzAh8AIIgZlg%3BFeB4NwIdiqyvBil_GIH8aQp1NjF-8FWNUrT06g%3BFZvXCgIdjVt-Bim5F6wi6XljNjEuWJSn_WbUhQ%3BFV8z6QEdTbIUBymDzY1mm4y1NTEGG995C7b7jw%3BFUaV3QEdZPwvBykHXtKb0aCzNTEEYHa9hX_lIQ%3BFbmJ3AEdqIo9BykzPPWxQHCyNTGhZMMjlBKVAg%3BFftoxQEdxK8NBynLHEgjNsQ1NDFJdVExID8xTw%3BFVyIdQEdzOYJBykn67_leYMUNDFW0GiWCmegKA%3BFfpBeQEdvDD1BiljYJKwxscWNDFGk04kI5VejQ%3BFfv6VwEdjGLMBimRUuHQCPQDNDHJgJK3DVXu_Q&aq=0&oq=shenzhen&sll=31.765537,115.092773&sspn=18.926549,43.286133&mra=ls&ie=UTF8&ll=31.765537,115.092773&spn=18.00924,12.53459&t=m" style="color: blue; text-align: left;">Untitled</a> in a larger map</small></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">29/06 - Bye Bye Cambodia:(</span></div>
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30/06 - Hong Kong</div>
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01/07 - Hong Kong and flight to Beijing. From here to below just trains.</div>
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02/07 - Beijing</div>
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03/07 - Beijing</div>
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04/07 - Beijing<br />
05/07 - Beijing<br />
06/07 - Beijing<br />
07/07 - Datong<br />
08/07 - Pingyao<br />
09/07 - Pingyao<br />
10/07 - Xian<br />
11/07 - Xian<br />
12/07 - Xian<br />
13/07 - Nanjing<br />
14/07 - Nanjing<br />
15/07 - Nanjing<br />
16/07 - Suzhou<br />
17/07 - Shanghai<br />
18/07 - Shanghai<br />
19/07 - Shanghai<br />
20/07 - Huangshan Mountain<br />
21/07 - Huangshan Mountain<br />
22/07 - Xiamen<br />
23/07 - Xiamen<br />
24/07 - Xiamen<br />
25/07 - Yongding<br />
26/07 - Hong Kong<br />
27/07 - Hong Kong<br />
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<span style="background-color: white;">China is a huge country, bigger than Brazil. This North-South East coast tour is just one of the many others you could do within 1 month. It's extremely difficult to decide the best way to go and everytime you search, Google will find more wonderful and incredible sceneries that China can offer. Among other possibilities one could go in the Mongolia direction, with plains and mountains, or follow the <i>Silk Route</i> to the desert in the West, or even </span><i style="background-color: white;">Tibet</i><span style="background-color: white;"> in Southwest and all the Southern region visiting </span><i style="background-color: white;">Guilin</i><span style="background-color: white;">, and going West until </span><i style="background-color: white;">Dali</i><span style="background-color: white;">.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white;">Below I will make an introduction to all the places so you can have an idea what will be coming up in the next month.</span><br />
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<b><i>Hong Kong (K)</i></b><br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.destinosdeviagem.com/wp-content/gallery/hong-kong/china-hong-kong.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="157" src="http://www.destinosdeviagem.com/wp-content/gallery/hong-kong/china-hong-kong.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Source: <a href="http://www.destinosdeviagem.com/hong-kong-a-economia-mais-liberal-do-mundo-china/">Destinosdeviagem</a></td></tr>
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My initial kick-off will be through <i style="background-color: white;"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hong_Kong">Hong Kong</a>, </i><span style="background-color: white;">the gate to China. Besides being a former British colony which was returned to China in 1997, it's one of the world's most famous financial center reflected on its skyscrapers and sophisticated features. However <i>Hong Kong </i>is still a special administrative region and kept its right to be almost independent from China for the next 50 years after being returned. There are many contrasts and conflicts between <i>Mainland Chinese </i>and <i>Hong Kong Chinese</i>. The social indicators are obviously very different and therefore are very famous some cultural shock issues. <a href="http://livehongkong.blogspot.com/">My friend Julia Ferraz's blog</a> is especialized in <i>Hong Kong</i> and it's a good source of actual and relevant information for everyone going there. </span></div>
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<b><i>Beijing (A)</i></b><br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://cnreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/beijing-cbd-02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="139" src="http://cnreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/beijing-cbd-02.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Source: <a href="http://cnreviews.com/">CNReviews.com</a></td></tr>
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<i style="background-color: white;"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beijing">Beijing</a> </i><span style="background-color: white;">is the second largest city in China, and besides its title as the administrative capital it could also be said as the cultural capital. Spread around the city are temples, palaces, museums, ruines, etc., that can show the history of the Chinese people. In 2008, </span><i style="background-color: white;">Beijing </i><span style="background-color: white;">hit the news constantly as the host of the Olympics and because of that the city went through massive transport invesments and attemptives to curb pollution. The cultural attractions there are many and this will be the city in which I will spend most of my time during the whole trip. I will visit the Forbidden City, the Temple of Heaven, the Tianamen Square, the Summer Palace, and of course, The Great Wall of China, among others.</span></div>
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<b><i>Datong (B)</i></b><br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d5/Xuankongsi.jpg/240px-Xuankongsi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d5/Xuankongsi.jpg/240px-Xuankongsi.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Source: <a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d5/Xuankongsi.jpg/240px-Xuankongsi.jpg">Wikipedia</a></td></tr>
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<i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Datong">Datong</a> </i> is a 3 million people city and it's not that far from <i>Beijing</i>. Besides there are some more attractions there I will spend just 1 day and not even 1 night becasuse I want to visit just only two big monuments. One are the Hanging Monasteries and other are the <i>Yungang </i>Grottoes.<br />
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<b><i>Pingyao (C)</i></b><br />
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<a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b3/PingYaoCity.jpg/250px-PingYaoCity.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b3/PingYaoCity.jpg/250px-PingYaoCity.jpg" width="131" /></a><br />
<span style="background-color: white;">Moving on the next stop will be </span><i style="background-color: white;"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pingyao">Pingyao</a>, </i><span style="background-color: white;">a tiny little city for Chinese standards with only 50,000 people. It has more than 2,700 years of history and appointed as the world's best well kept ancient city. To start, its wall was kept until today. This city was also China's first financial center, keeping more than a half of the country's financial institutions until 1914. Just walking around the city, or over its walls it's something special, however there are many temples and courtyards to visit.</span><br />
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<b><i>Xi'An (D)</i></b><br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/80/1_xian_china_wild_goose_pagoda_view.JPG/200px-1_xian_china_wild_goose_pagoda_view.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="132" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/80/1_xian_china_wild_goose_pagoda_view.JPG/200px-1_xian_china_wild_goose_pagoda_view.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Source: <a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/80/1_xian_china_wild_goose_pagoda_view.JPG/200px-1_xian_china_wild_goose_pagoda_view.JPG">Wikipedia</a></td></tr>
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<i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xian">Xi'An</a> </i>it's a metropolis in China's central region and also known as 'West Capital' in the past. It was the end (or the start) to the old <i>Silk Road</i> that connected China to Europe by land. Because of that, <i>Xi'An</i> was always marked by an intense exchange of ideas, culture and religions, which in fact is reflected in the presence of mosques which were brought with the Islam practices of the traders from Middle-East. With a more than 8 million people population it keeps one of the most valuable archeologic treasures of China, the Terracotta Army.<br />
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<b><i>Nanjing (E)</i></b><br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c6/Fuzimiaonight.JPG/200px-Fuzimiaonight.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c6/Fuzimiaonight.JPG/200px-Fuzimiaonight.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Source: <a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c6/Fuzimiaonight.JPG/200px-Fuzimiaonight.JPG">Wikipedia</a></td></tr>
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Other Chinese metropolis, <i style="background-color: white;"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nanjing" style="background-color: white;">Nanjing</a> </i><span style="background-color: white;">also has more than 8 million people and its name means 'South Capital'. It's located in the margins of the <i>Yangtze</i> river and it's an important historical city as much as <i>Xi'An </i>or <i>Beijing</i>, serving as administrative capital many times. Besides its many museums, temples and ancient cultural attractions there are two highlights for the city. First, this is where the Japanese occupation war crimes were worse and second, this was the final stage where the Comunist party took control over China and the dissidents ran away to <i>Taiwan</i>.</span><br />
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<b><i>Suzhou (F)</i></b><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="148" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f5/Humble_Administrator's_Garden1.jpg/200px-Humble_Administrator's_Garden1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="200" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Source: <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suzhou">Wikipedia</a></td></tr>
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<i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suzhou">Suzhou</a> </i>has around 4 million people in its urban area and 10 million people in its expanded area being part of a satellite centurion of cities around <i>Shanghai</i>. The city has more than 2,500 years of history and presents the apex of Chinese garden architecture. My focus during the tour will be basically to go around the gardens in the historical area of the city.<br />
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<b><i>Shanghai (G)</i></b><br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.topchinatravel.com/pic/city/shanghai/attractions/The-Bund-8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="147" src="http://www.topchinatravel.com/pic/city/shanghai/attractions/The-Bund-8.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Source: <a href="http://topchinatravel.com/">topchinatravel.com</a></td></tr>
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Finally <span style="background-color: white;"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shanghai" style="font-style: italic;">Shanghai</a>, China's true symbol of development and economic power. Around 23 million people and the title as the biggest Chinese city besides its global relevance as poltical, economical and cultural center. It's located in the end of the <i>Yangtze</i> river and because of that it always ensured a strategical importance to the country. During the 19th century, England, Germany and French imposed diplomatic deals in which they could hold parts of the city and make profit with Opium trade. Monuments, avenues, neighborhoods and the 2nd tallest budiling in the world will be on my 'to-dos' list.</span><br />
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<b><i>Huangshan Mountain (H)</i></b><br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1d/Huangshan_pic_4.jpg/280px-Huangshan_pic_4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="116" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1d/Huangshan_pic_4.jpg/280px-Huangshan_pic_4.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Source: <a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1d/Huangshan_pic_4.jpg/280px-Huangshan_pic_4.jpg">Wikipedia</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white;">Not so far away from </span><i style="background-color: white;">Shanghai</i><span style="background-color: white;"> it's </span><i style="background-color: white;"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Huangshan_Mountain">Huangshan</a> </i><span style="background-color: white;">Mt also known as <i>"Yellow Mountain"</i>. In 2007 this place received 15 million tourists and this will be my nature scenery highlight during the trip. Climbing it up during 2 hours of steps, an extensive trekking through the many peaks and sunset and sunrise in the top. If everything's ok and my agenda follows my plans I will spend my birthday there.</span><br />
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<b><i>Xiamen (I)</i></b><br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/ee/Zhongshanrd.jpg/240px-Zhongshanrd.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="149" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/ee/Zhongshanrd.jpg/240px-Zhongshanrd.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Source: <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xiamen">Wikipedia</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: white;">Included recently in my itinerary, </span><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xiamen" style="background-color: white; font-style: italic;">Xiamen</a><span style="background-color: white;"> it's a 3 million + city and one of the contact points between Mainland China and </span><i style="background-color: white;">Taiwan</i><span style="background-color: white;">. It's appointed as the cleanest and well kept city in China. One of the interesting aspects about going there is paying a visit to the </span><i style="background-color: white;"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gulang_Island">Gulang Yu</a> </i><span style="background-color: white;">island, which mixes European and Chinese influence due to its past after the Opium war.</span><br />
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<b><i>Yongding (J)</i></b><br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c9/Chuxi_tulou_cluster.JPG/220px-Chuxi_tulou_cluster.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c9/Chuxi_tulou_cluster.JPG/220px-Chuxi_tulou_cluster.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px; text-align: center;">Source: <a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c9/Chuxi_tulou_cluster.JPG/220px-Chuxi_tulou_cluster.JPG">Wikipedia</a></td></tr>
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<span style="background-color: white;">My last stop is </span><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yongding_County" style="background-color: white; font-style: italic;">Yongding</a><span style="background-color: white;">, a montaineous region in the province of </span><i style="background-color: white;">Fujian</i><span style="background-color: white;">, original land of the </span><i style="background-color: white;">Hakka </i><span style="background-color: white;">people. The main attraction in the region are the 'condominiums' built as fortress in many different formats: circles, squares and elyptical.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;">Well, I hope you got at least curious about how the trip will be. After I leave Cambodia I probably won't write any detailed post before getting back to Brazil. During that period you keep your imagination wondering how things must be going on! hehe</span><br />
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<b>Liked? Any suggestion or idea? Leave a comment! ;]</b></div>
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</div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02152018193849879223noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4089077439641967020.post-53328794821536568942012-06-20T13:29:00.000+07:002012-06-21T09:24:43.029+07:00Uma viagem da China<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b>Enfim, China</b><br />
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<b><a href="http://hldyncambodia.blogspot.com/2012/06/trip-around-china.html">English Version</a></b></div>
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Terminada a minha experiência aqui no Camboja - posts posteriores irão falar sobre isso - eu vou embarcar numa viagem de quase 1 mês na China.</div>
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Essa viagem talvez seja a que esteja me exigindo mais preparação e planejamento de tudo o que eu já fiz por aqui. Pra que os custos fiquem sob controle, várias noites serão dormidas dentro de trens, e pra que a viagem tivesse um gosto mais local, sempre que possível vou recorrer ao <a href="http://www.couchsurfing.org/">Couchsurfing</a> (Aos que não conhecem, recomendo a leitura desse <a href="http://pt.wikipedia.org/wiki/CouchSurfing">artigo da Wikipedia</a>). Ainda, pra que eu não dependesse de ficar fazendo check-in em hotéis, e possibilitasse o máximo de flexibilidade na viagem investi uma graninha numa mochila média da Deuter que vai carregar 'essencialmente o necessário': algumas poucas roupas, equipamento fotográfico, coisas de higiene e comida, só. Não, não vou fazer o pacto da sujeira mas a idéia é ir lavando no caminho.<br />
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<span style="background-color: white;">Um dos grandes desafios pra se viajar na China é a barreira linguística. Quase ninguém fala inglês - em termos relativos. Eu sei que não é uma solução perfeita mas eu eu levarei um iPad com alguns apps que tornarão bem fácil acessar mapas e traduzir coisas para chinês de tal forma que eu consiga pelo menos me comunicar de forma bem básica.</span></div>
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Bom, talvez o que deve estar deixando vocês mais ansiosos, o itinerário! Fiz ele sob assistência do meu amigo chinês Zhengyu. A idéia foi sim ter todos os passos planejados e principalmente uma previsão bem clara da parte orçamentária. Não sou nenhum <i>Philleas Fogg</i> mas a idéia é seguir esse plano. Caso haja necessidade ou vontade de mudar, fica até mais fácil sabendo onde tão as folgas, os trens, etc.<br />
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A planilha tá muito boa e se alguém quiser viajar pra China é só me pedir. Vou tentar fazer um acompanhamento do orçamento pra ver se sai dentro dele e depois posto o resultado. A estimativa atual é de 8.248 <i>yuans</i>, que equivalem ao redor de US$ 1.200. Inclui tudo menos os vôos de entrada e saída da China.<br />
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<iframe frameborder="0" height="350" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="https://maps.google.com/maps?f=d&source=s_d&saddr=Beijing&daddr=Datong+to:Pingyao,+Jinzhong,+Shanxi,+China+to:Xi'an,+Shaanxi,+China+to:Nanjing,+Jiangsu,+China+to:Suzhou,+Jiangsu,+China+to:Shanghai+to:Huangshan,+Anhui,+China+to:Xiamen,+Fujian,+China+to:Yongding,+Longyan,+Fujian,+China+to:Shenzhen,+Guangdong,+China&hl=en&geocode=FdbjYAIddTzwBim5LBTnllLwNTGKqQ-vIFZiuQ%3BFRCGYwIdntLABin1EWAVh9PiNTFzAh8AIIgZlg%3BFeB4NwIdiqyvBil_GIH8aQp1NjF-8FWNUrT06g%3BFZvXCgIdjVt-Bim5F6wi6XljNjEuWJSn_WbUhQ%3BFV8z6QEdTbIUBymDzY1mm4y1NTEGG995C7b7jw%3BFUaV3QEdZPwvBykHXtKb0aCzNTEEYHa9hX_lIQ%3BFbmJ3AEdqIo9BykzPPWxQHCyNTGhZMMjlBKVAg%3BFftoxQEdxK8NBynLHEgjNsQ1NDFJdVExID8xTw%3BFVyIdQEdzOYJBykn67_leYMUNDFW0GiWCmegKA%3BFfpBeQEdvDD1BiljYJKwxscWNDFGk04kI5VejQ%3BFfv6VwEdjGLMBimRUuHQCPQDNDHJgJK3DVXu_Q&aq=0&oq=shenzhen&sll=31.765537,115.092773&sspn=18.926549,43.286133&mra=ls&ie=UTF8&ll=31.765537,115.092773&spn=18.00924,12.53459&t=m&output=embed" width="425"></iframe></div>
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<small>View <a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?f=d&source=embed&saddr=Beijing&daddr=Datong+to:Pingyao,+Jinzhong,+Shanxi,+China+to:Xi'an,+Shaanxi,+China+to:Nanjing,+Jiangsu,+China+to:Suzhou,+Jiangsu,+China+to:Shanghai+to:Huangshan,+Anhui,+China+to:Xiamen,+Fujian,+China+to:Yongding,+Longyan,+Fujian,+China+to:Shenzhen,+Guangdong,+China&hl=en&geocode=FdbjYAIddTzwBim5LBTnllLwNTGKqQ-vIFZiuQ%3BFRCGYwIdntLABin1EWAVh9PiNTFzAh8AIIgZlg%3BFeB4NwIdiqyvBil_GIH8aQp1NjF-8FWNUrT06g%3BFZvXCgIdjVt-Bim5F6wi6XljNjEuWJSn_WbUhQ%3BFV8z6QEdTbIUBymDzY1mm4y1NTEGG995C7b7jw%3BFUaV3QEdZPwvBykHXtKb0aCzNTEEYHa9hX_lIQ%3BFbmJ3AEdqIo9BykzPPWxQHCyNTGhZMMjlBKVAg%3BFftoxQEdxK8NBynLHEgjNsQ1NDFJdVExID8xTw%3BFVyIdQEdzOYJBykn67_leYMUNDFW0GiWCmegKA%3BFfpBeQEdvDD1BiljYJKwxscWNDFGk04kI5VejQ%3BFfv6VwEdjGLMBimRUuHQCPQDNDHJgJK3DVXu_Q&aq=0&oq=shenzhen&sll=31.765537,115.092773&sspn=18.926549,43.286133&mra=ls&ie=UTF8&ll=31.765537,115.092773&spn=18.00924,12.53459&t=m" style="color: blue; text-align: left;">Untitled</a> in a larger map</small>
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<span style="background-color: white;">29/06 - Bye Bye Camboja :(</span></div>
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30/06 - Hong Kong</div>
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01/07 - Hong Kong e vôo para Beijing. Daqui pra baixo apenas trens.</div>
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02/07 - Beijing</div>
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03/07 - Beijing</div>
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04/07 - Beijing<br />
05/07 - Beijing<br />
06/07 - Beijing<br />
07/07 - Datong<br />
08/07 - Pingyao<br />
09/07 - Pingyao<br />
10/07 - Xian<br />
11/07 - Xian<br />
12/07 - Xian<br />
13/07 - Nanjing<br />
14/07 - Nanjing<br />
15/07 - Nanjing<br />
16/07 - Suzhou<br />
17/07 - Shanghai<br />
18/07 - Shanghai<br />
19/07 - Shanghai<br />
20/07 - Huangshan Mountain<br />
21/07 - Huangshan Mountain<br />
22/07 - Xiamen<br />
23/07 - Xiamen<br />
24/07 - Xiamen<br />
25/07 - Yongding<br />
26/07 - Hong Kong<br />
27/07 - Hong Kong<br />
28/07 - Cingapura<br />
29/07 - Paris<br />
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A China é um país enorme, maior do que o Brasil. Esse trajeto norte-sul pela costa leste é apenas um dos vários caminhos possíveis a se fazer. É extremamente difícil decidir o caminho a seguir e cada pesquisa feita no Google só revela mais paisagens e lugares incríveis que a China tem a oferecer. Entre outras possibilidades poderia seguir em direção à Mongólia, com planícies e montanhas, ou seguir a rota da ceda em direção ao deserto no oeste, ou ainda o <i>Tibet</i> no sudoeste e também toda a região sul visitando <i>Guilin</i>, e seguindo ao oeste até <i>Dali</i>.
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Aqui embaixo vou fazer uma introdução dos lugares pra vocês terem uma idéia do que eu vou ver e visitar nesse próximo mês.<br />
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<b><i>Hong Kong (K)</i></b><br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.destinosdeviagem.com/wp-content/gallery/hong-kong/china-hong-kong.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="157" src="http://www.destinosdeviagem.com/wp-content/gallery/hong-kong/china-hong-kong.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fonte: <a href="http://www.destinosdeviagem.com/hong-kong-a-economia-mais-liberal-do-mundo-china/">Destinosdeviagem</a></td></tr>
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O ponta-pé inicial vai ser via <i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hong_Kong">Hong Kong</a></i>, porta de entada pra muita gente quando visitando a China. Além de ser uma ex-colônia britânica repatriada à China em 1997, é uma das mecas mundiais do mundo financeiro refletida em seus inúmeros arranha-céus e sofisticação. <i>Hong Kong</i> ainda é uma região administrativa especial e conservou o direito de ser praticamente independente do governo central da China por mais 50 anos. Há uma série de contrastes e conflitos entre os chineses de <i>Hong Kong</i> e os chineses da China continental. Os indicadores sócio-econômicos são em média obviamente bem distintos e portanto são famosos alguns casos de choques culturais. O <a href="http://livehongkong.blogspot.com/">blog da minha amiga Julia Ferraz</a> é especializado em <i>Hong Kong </i>e definitivamente uma fonte de informação atual e relevante pra quem está indo pra lá.</div>
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<b><i>Beijing (A)</i></b><br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://cnreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/beijing-cbd-02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="139" src="http://cnreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/08/beijing-cbd-02.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fonte: <a href="http://cnreviews.com/">CNReviews.com</a></td></tr>
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<i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beijing">Beijing </a></i>é a 2a maior cidade da China, e além de capital adminsitrativa conserva o título de capital cultural. Espalhados pela cidade estão templos, palácios, museus, ruínas, etc. que preservam a história do povo chinês. Em 2008, <i>Beijing </i>ficou muito famosa no noticiário por receber as Olimpíadas e por causa disso a cidade recebeu muitos investimentos em transporte e tentativas de mitigação da poluição. As atrações culturais aqui são tantas que vai ser a cidade em que mais tempo eu vou ficar em toda a minha viagem. Vou visitar a Cidade Proibida, o Templo do Céu, a Praça Celestial, o Palácio de Verão, e lógico a Grande Muralha, entre outros.</div>
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<b><i>Datong (B)</i></b><br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d5/Xuankongsi.jpg/240px-Xuankongsi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d5/Xuankongsi.jpg/240px-Xuankongsi.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fonte: <a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d5/Xuankongsi.jpg/240px-Xuankongsi.jpg">Wikipedia</a></td></tr>
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<i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Datong">Datong </a></i>é uma cidade de cerca de 3 milhões de habitantes e fica não muito distante de <i>Beijing</i>. Embora haja algumas atrações na cidade vou ficar apenas 1 dia e nenhuma noite pois meu foco é visitar dois grandes monumentos. Um inclui os Monastérios Suspensos numa encosta de montanha e outro as esculturas nas cavernas de <i>Yungang</i>.<br />
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<b><i>Pingyao (C)</i></b><br />
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<a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b3/PingYaoCity.jpg/250px-PingYaoCity.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/b3/PingYaoCity.jpg/250px-PingYaoCity.jpg" width="131" /></a>Dando seqüência a próxima parada será <i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pingyao">Pingyao</a></i>, uma cidade minúscula para os padrões chineses com apenas 50.000 habitantes. É uma cidade com uma história de 2.700 anos e apontada como a cidade histórica mais bem conservada do mundo. Tanto é que todo o seu muro de proteção foi mantido até hoje. Essa cidade também foi o primeiro centro financeiro da China, chegando a concentrar metade de todas as instituições financeiras até 1914. Apenas andar na cidade, ou sobre as muralhas já é algo em especial, porém no entorno há uma série de templos e pátios para serem visitados.<br />
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<b><i>Xi'An (D)</i></b><br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/80/1_xian_china_wild_goose_pagoda_view.JPG/200px-1_xian_china_wild_goose_pagoda_view.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="132" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/80/1_xian_china_wild_goose_pagoda_view.JPG/200px-1_xian_china_wild_goose_pagoda_view.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fonte: <a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/8/80/1_xian_china_wild_goose_pagoda_view.JPG/200px-1_xian_china_wild_goose_pagoda_view.JPG">Wikipedia</a></td></tr>
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<i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xian">Xi'An</a> </i>é uma metrópole na região central da China e também conhecida como 'capital do oeste' no passado. É o fim (ou o começo) da antiga Rota da Seda que ligava a China até a Europa por terra. Por causa disso, <i>Xi'An </i>sempre foi marcada por um intenso intercâmbio cultural de idéias e religiões, não por acaso contém mesquitas cuja prática islã veio com os comerciantes do Oriente Médio. Com uma população de mais de 8 milhões de habitantes conserva um dos grandes tesouros arqueológicos da China, o exército esculpido em estátuas feitas de barro e enterrado junto do túmulo do imperador.<br />
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<b><i>Nanjing (E)</i></b><br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c6/Fuzimiaonight.JPG/200px-Fuzimiaonight.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c6/Fuzimiaonight.JPG/200px-Fuzimiaonight.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fonte: <a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c6/Fuzimiaonight.JPG/200px-Fuzimiaonight.JPG">Wikipedia</a></td></tr>
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Outra metrópole chinesa, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nanjing"><i>Nanjing</i> </a>também tem mais de 8 milhões de habitantes e seu nome significa 'capital do sul'. Às margens do rio <i>Yangtze</i> é uma cidade tão histórica e importante para os chineses como <i>Xi'An </i>e <i>Beijing</i>, tendo servido como capital administrativa por diversas vezes. Além de seus muitos museus, templos e atrações culturais antigas, há dois fatos mais atuais bem importantes pra cidade. Primeiro, foi onde houve uma das ações mais sangrentas e ultrajantes durante a ocupação japonesa na 2a Guerra Mundial e segundo, foi o palco final da consolidação do poder do partido comunista sobre a China e a fuga dos dissidentes para <i>Taiwan</i>.<br />
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<b><i>Suzhou (F)</i></b><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="148" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/f5/Humble_Administrator's_Garden1.jpg/200px-Humble_Administrator's_Garden1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="200" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fonte: <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suzhou">Wikipedia</a></td></tr>
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<span style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></span><i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suzhou">Suzhou</a> </i>tem cerca de 4 milhões de habitantes na sua área urbana e em torno de 10 milhões na sua área expandida e faz parte de um conjunto de cidades satélites no entorno de <i>Shanghai</i>. Ao mesmo tempo porém apresenta 2.500 anos de história e o ápice da arquitetura clássica de jardins chineses. O meu foco no tour vai ser basicamente a visita aos vários jardins ficando mais na área histórica da cidade.<br />
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<b><i>Shanghai (G)</i></b><br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.topchinatravel.com/pic/city/shanghai/attractions/The-Bund-8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="147" src="http://www.topchinatravel.com/pic/city/shanghai/attractions/The-Bund-8.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://topchinatravel.com/">topchinatravel.com</a></td></tr>
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Finalmente chegamos a <i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shanghai">Shanghai</a>, </i>o verdadeiro símbolo do desenvolvimento e poderio econômio chinês. Cerca de 23 milhões de habitantes e o título de maior cidade da China além de seu caráter global em termos de relvância como centro político, econômico, cultural, etc. Fica localizada na entrada do rio <i>Yangtze </i> para o mar e por isso sempre teve uma importância estratégica para a China. No século 19, Inglaterra, Alemanha e França impuseram acordos em que detinham o controle de partes da cidade e lucravam com a comercialização de ópio. Monumentos, avenidas, bairros, e o 2o prédio mais alto do mundo estão na minha lista de lugares a visitar.<br />
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<b><i>Huangshan Mountain (H)</i></b><br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1d/Huangshan_pic_4.jpg/280px-Huangshan_pic_4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="116" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1d/Huangshan_pic_4.jpg/280px-Huangshan_pic_4.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fonte: <a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/1d/Huangshan_pic_4.jpg/280px-Huangshan_pic_4.jpg">Wikipedia</a></td></tr>
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Não tão longe de <i>Shanghai</i> está o monte <i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Huangshan_Mountain">Huangshan</a></i>, também conhecida como <i>"Montanha Amarela"</i>. Em 2007 a montanha recebeu 15 milhões de turistas e esse vai ser o ponto alto em termos de paisagens naturais da minha viagem Uma subida de 2h por escadas ao redor da montanha, uma caminhada extensa pelos vários topos e pôr-do-sol e nascer-do-sol lá em cima. Se tudo der certo e a agenda caminhar como planejado vou passar meu aniversário lá.<br />
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<b><i>Xiamen (I)</i></b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/ee/Zhongshanrd.jpg/240px-Zhongshanrd.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="149" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/ee/Zhongshanrd.jpg/240px-Zhongshanrd.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fonte: <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xiamen">Wikipedia</a></td></tr>
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Incluída recentemente no meu roteiro, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xiamen" style="font-style: italic;">Xiamen</a> é uma cidade de mais de 3 milhões de habitantes e um dos pontos de contato entre a China continental e <i>Taiwan</i>. É apontada como a cidade mais limpa e bem cuidada da China. Um dos pontos mais interessantes é a visita à ilha de <i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gulang_Island">Gulang Yu</a></i>, que mescla influência européia e chinesa devido ao seu passado após a guerra do Ópio.<br />
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<b><i>Yongding (J)</i></b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c9/Chuxi_tulou_cluster.JPG/220px-Chuxi_tulou_cluster.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c9/Chuxi_tulou_cluster.JPG/220px-Chuxi_tulou_cluster.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fonte: <a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/c/c9/Chuxi_tulou_cluster.JPG/220px-Chuxi_tulou_cluster.JPG">Wikipedia</a></td></tr>
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A última parada é em <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yongding_County" style="font-style: italic;">Yongding</a>, uma região montanhosa na província de <i>Fujian</i>, terra de origem do povo <i>Hakka</i>. A principal atração dessa área são os 'condomínios' construídos como verdadeiras fortalezas em formas circulares, quadradas e ovais.</div>
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Bom, espero que vocês tenham ficado no mínimo curiosos de como essa viagem vai ser. Depois que eu sair do Camboja acho que vou ficar sem postar de forma detalhada no blog até voltar ao Brasil. Enquanto isso vocês ficam com a imaginação de como as coisas devem estar indo! hehe<br />
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<b>Gostou? Alguma idéia ou sugestão? Deixe um comentário! ;]</b></div>
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</div>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02152018193849879223noreply@blogger.com0